Enclosed Trailer/Car Hauler feedback

[Demps]

There has been a lot of talk about folks buying trailers. I have an open Trailerworld aluminium 16' airdam trailer perfect for the ZR-1--except now I'm wanting an enclosed trailer for my non-drivers. I'm thinking of stepping up to an enclosed trailer. I will be towing with a 5.7L DOHC Tundra (381 hp, 401 lb-ft -->sound remotely familiar?) that is rated at 10,300lbs.

Please give some feedback for those (Chris) that have recently bought (or owned for a while) about:

1) what you would do differently?
2) does "size" matter--20-26ft?
3) axle rating?
4) front stowage options?
5) front taper (vee or angled roof)?
6) door placement/functionality?

thanks,
Ted

[IowaZR-1]

I've got a 22' 102" wide Haulmark thriftyhauler with dovetail and driver's side door. One thing I would have done is gotten the sloped front for gas mileage. Another thing is get some roof vents as it's an oven in the summer inside and also the interior lighting, stone guard, and D rings. The driver's side door is a must as crawling out the window is a pain! I got the 3000lb. axles but it depends on how must you're planning on hauling. I was going to build my own storage compartments as my labor is free, but the more you haul in storage the worst your gas mileage. I hauled my "Black Rose" from Pennsylvania to Iowa (750 miles) two years ago with no problem.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Demps

There has been a lot of talk about folks buying trailers. I have an open Trailerworld aluminium 16' airdam trailer perfect for the ZR-1--except now I'm wanting an enclosed trailer for my non-drivers. I'm thinking of stepping up to an enclosed trailer. I will be towing with a 5.7L DOHC Tundra (381 hp, 401 lb-ft -->sound remotely familiar?) that is rated at 10,300lbs.

Please give some feedback for those (Chris) that have recently bought (or owned for a while) about:

1) what you would do differently?
2) does "size" matter--20-26ft?
3) axle rating?
4) front stowage options?
5) front taper (vee or angled roof)?
6) door placement/functionality?

thanks,
Ted

1) get V nose or sloped nose. Pushing air with a box it real bad on economy
2) my 20' is plenty for my hauls. room up front to tie down foot locker or ice chest, stow folding chairs, etc.
3) standard axels have served me well so far. I've hauled abt 10,000 miles w/no problems.
4) I can store all I need in the trailer and/or Avalanche.
5) see 1) above. I think the sloped front will preserve stowage room up front.
6) entry door @ rt front, driver escape door & beavertail rear. Standard stuff.

What you should do is build a set of ramps inside to elevate the car to be able to open the door completely through the escape door. The ramps also make it (1) easy to tie down, (2) provide space to secure the trailer spare to the floor & a floor jack to the side of a ramp. I have pictures & dimensions if you want to pursue. Highly recommended.

Advice:
(1) Always carry a floor jack to be able to change a trailer tire.
(2) Use an equalizing hitch. Although your rated hitch weight will handle a properly balanced trailer, equalizing unitizes the towing vehicle & trailer which helps a lot on concrete roads with uneven sections.
(3) Sway bar is optional. Not much need unless strong crosswinds. I towed for a couple of years without. Like it better with one in use.
(4)Set up the hitch properly to level the trailer.
(5) get a good brake controller.
(6) one of my biggest worries is getting a low/flat tire & not knowing it until it shreds. My next purchase is a LTPWS system for the trailer.

A big trailer is just more to pull which equates into poorer economy, more difficulty making turnarounds in tight spaces like when gassing up or stopping to eat. For me, the small 20' does the job. Just wish I didn't have the square front. Might have to get it modified.

Make sure any trailer you buy has the brake wiring protected from abrasion. Mine just had wire run through "torch cut" holes in the frame, until I fixed it. You can buy & add tie down loop plates wherever you want them, inexpensively. Just make sure you install them where they can be bolted through the frame.

Just my 2 cents Ted. Let me know if I can help any.

Jerry

[Demps]

Thanks Jerry (and Iowa),

I was wondering if a 20ft would be long enough. I am in line with the tapered front of some type. I remember the floor ramps--are they made of 2x12? Your suggestions are what I was/am spec'ing out. Just wondering what the length needed to be. Ted

[flyin ryan]

i'm trying to decide between a 20ft. or 22ft. myself. if it was just for a ZR-1 i think 20ft. might be o.k. but my Stingray is a hair longer overall so...

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Demps

Thanks Jerry (and Iowa),

I was wondering if a 20ft would be long enough. I am in line with the tapered front of some type. I remember the floor ramps--are they made of 2x12? Your suggestions are what I was/am spec'ing out. Just wondering what the length needed to be. Ted

Yep, ramps are of 2x12. I will send you pics by email & location of ft wheel stop block from center of axles, as well as overall length, etc. They are bolted down through the frame.

The extra length is really about what all you want to be able to haul with the car. Purely a personal preference/need type of thing.

Originally Posted by flyin ryan

i'm trying to decide between a 20ft. or 22ft. myself. if it was just for a ZR-1 i think 20ft. might be o.k. but my Stingray is a hair longer overall so...

Take what you think you need and add 4 feet to it. When you start adding tools, jacks and other gear, you will want the extra space.