Stuck out with a no start.

[ZWILD1]

We went out for a ride and a bite to eat. Get in the car have full power to everything but no start. The security light doesn't stay on . Turn the key nothing at all.

[secondchance]

Keep an eye on voltage gauge as you turn the key to ignition. Does the needle dip? If yes, I would suspect corroded solenoid contact/plunger. If not, it might be VATS or clutch safety switch issue. Try starting again when the motor has cooled over night. If it does, again corroded solenoid would be suspect.

[Paul Workman]

What year car?

"No start"...??

• the starter spins but motor will not start?
• there is a "click" sound, but the starter does not turn?
• ....
• ....

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by ZWILD1

We went out for a ride and a bite to eat. Get in the car have full power to everything but no start. The security light doesn't stay on . Turn the key nothing at all.

When you turn the key to "on" but not "start", does the IP go though "bulb check"?


Once you go to "start" do you hear anything...even a relay clicking?


Have you read the infomation in the service manual for a no start condition?

[lfalzarano]

Originally Posted by ZWILD1

We went out for a ride and a bite to eat. Get in the car have full power to everything but no start. The security light doesn't stay on . Turn the key nothing at all.

Wait 10 minutes and it will start. You can always push start it as experienced with my 90.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[Paul Workman]

IF it is a 90-92 Z, the clutch safety switch carries all of the current for the starter solenoid. Characteristic sign is there is no "click" from the starter when turning the ignition switch to START.

The other issue (common to the Denso starters) is the high current contacts actuated inside the starter by the solenoid. (Mine gave out at the 38k mile mark.) Apparently, it is a common problem b/c I often see the replacement kits in stock at various auto parts stores. The kit with the new contacts run less than $10 unless you get the bigger kit with the solenoid armature in it.

(BUT NOTE! Be very mindful of the thrust pin length is identical to the one it is replacing! If it is too short (or too long) it will misalign the Bendix gear resulting in less than full engagement of the (flywheel) ring gear and the ring gear can be damaged/destroyed.) The only wear on that armature to worry about is pitting on the copper contact (bridge) ring. A few minutes with some emery cloth/sand paper and it is good as new.

Oh! And, "while you're in there...", among other routine service/cleaning stuff, you might want to make sure the drain tube is clear (located under the rear side of the starter, next to the aluminum (block) wall). A thin wire to ream it out followed by a squirt of de-greaser does the trick. Also, it is a good time to check the torque of the Injector Housing bolts. A common problem is for them to work loose and allow oil to leak into the valley. I used BLUE Locktite on the threads and re-torque. Mine are still tight after 30k miles after becoming loose in the first 35k miles (when I bought the Z).

Anyway... I'm getting ahead of your problem - you don't know yet if the starter is even the issue. So, maybe ya just tuck this away for future reference (for you or anyone else following along).

P.

[ZWILD1]

The car is a 91. When the key was advanced to the on position the center LCD came on. I turned the key to the start position and the LCD went totally out and no sounds of any kind. I tried my second set of keys incase the chip was not reading correctly. Still nothing. I lowered the driver side window , set the alarm, and reached inside opening the door. The alarm went off. I used the door key to turn the alarm off. I tried the ignition key again and still nothing. I checked over the fuses and everything was good. I decided to give Marc Haibeck a call and got one of his employees. After telling him about the car and what it was doing he said to advance the key to start and check to see if the interior lights dimmed showing a draw from the starter circuit. This time the car started right up like nothing was wrong. Drove home and parked it back in the garage. I tried it a few minutes later and it started fine. So that's where I'm at.

[Corvette95]

Originally Posted by ZWILD1

The car is a 91. When the key was advanced to the on position the center LCD came on. I turned the key to the start position and the LCD went totally out and no sounds of any kind. I tried my second set of keys incase the chip was not reading correctly. Still nothing. I lowered the driver side window , set the alarm, and reached inside opening the door. The alarm went off. I used the door key to turn the alarm off. I tried the ignition key again and still nothing. I checked over the fuses and everything was good. I decided to give Marc Haibeck a call and got one of his employees. After telling him about the car and what it was doing he said to advance the key to start and check to see if the interior lights dimmed showing a draw from the starter circuit. This time the car started right up like nothing was wrong. Drove home and parked it back in the garage. I tried it a few minutes later and it started fine. So that's where I'm at.

Heat soak on the starter. (drive the car about 20-30 minutes and get it hot, turn it off, let it sit 5 minutes and try to start it...likely will not start, but will start cold.)
If you haven't done the relay upgrade yet, I would do it because it will need it, if not now,...later, but sounds like it's time for a starter rebuild and valley cleanout.

[ZWILD1]

I was reading an old post about this on the Corvette Forum. They included links back here but they were no longer good. Instead of doing the 5 pin relay method I'd just as soon replace the starter. I have one I picked up for my other 91 Z but never used. That car never left me stranded. The only thing the previous owner did was a neutral safety bypass.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

Heat soak on the starter. (drive the car about 20-30 minutes and get it hot, turn it off, let it sit 5 minutes and try to start it...likely will not start, but will start cold.)
If you haven't done the relay upgrade yet, I would do it because it will need it, if not now,...later, but sounds like it's time for a starter rebuild and valley cleanout.

I've had that (heat soak) issue with a Delco Remy (GM starter) - once on my wife's '69 C3 in fact and once on a 427 El Camiino I had for a while. But, never heard of it with a Denso (ZR-1) starter. Clutch safety switch, yeah. And, the internal solenoid contacts ( a common Denso issue in fact), but no "heat soaked" Densos. Anybody else??