![]() |
#1 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
|
![]()
Okay guys, it's my turn to replace the o2 sensors. Driver side went fine. I have read about the other one being problematic.. I have removed the 45 degree bracket like other threads pointed out. Would it help to remove the plate mounted to the block or do I have to manipulate it like it is? I am a bit afraid to loose the other connector so I can't reach it... IMG_20200913_153440.jpgIMG_20200913_153510.jpg
Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,088
|
![]()
You?ve got everything off that needs to come off. How I did mine was I took a long,thin STANDARD screw driver to release the tab on the plug to release it. To plug in the plug on the new part I put a wad of DUM DUM on the end of the screwdriver to hold to plug as I get it lined up the the other end of the plug. Once lined up keep pushing until the tab locks in place. DUM DUM is a black sticky type stuff used as seam sealer between panels. It is a pain in the @$$ it basically you just have to do whatever works.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
|
![]()
A big thanks for the reply! I very much appreciate it. Is there something holding the connector in place upstream? Can one in other words push the new sensor connector against the other one without it going further up/in?
Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,088
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,491
|
![]()
I suggest that IF EVER headers are installed, goto Summit Racing and get a pair of O2 bungs (and a couple O2 plugs too to plug the old holes), and mount them on the outside (lateral) side of the collector. Then you can access the O2s w/o even jacking up the car!
NOTE: IIRC, I spliced in a new, extended reach pigtail and wrapped it in a heat wrap and tucked it under the heat shield. Has worked for going on 9 years and 30k miles with no problems (with the wiring - did just change the O2s as part of an unrelated experiment). Ask Marc Haibec how he likes the setup! ![]()
__________________
Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 183
|
![]()
According to the 1991 FSM, on the passenger side, you have to remove the "sheet metal plate" held on to the oil pan with 2 bolts. Unfortunately there is no diagram, but since it specifically mentions oil pan and 2 bolts, I don't think it's referencing the diagonal brace.
Apologies I haven't looked myself, but this plate that you mention - is it attached to the oil pan specifically? Any idea what purpose it serves / what the other end is attached to? It could in fact be the plate referenced in the FSM that needs to be removed to access the connector. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
|
![]() Quote:
Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
|
![]() Quote:
Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 183
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 73
|
![]() Quote:
Sent from my EVR-L29 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|