Never fails, there’s always one... - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Ccmano · 05-14-2018

So I popped the cam covers on the new engine to get ready for cam timing and cam cover refinish. As expected removing the cam cover bolts was tricky, I got all but one out. Had to drill out that one bolt head because it stripped. After removing the cover these bolts usually unscrew with just a vicegrip. Not this one! It does not want to budge. It’s also in a tricky spot. I have to be careful not to marr the cam journal. Already put some penetrating oil on it. Going to heat it tomorrow.

Any other suggestions from the collective wisdom?
H

gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz · 05-14-2018

Have you tyred hitting it with a hammer this sometimes helps
Regards Glen

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gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz · 05-14-2018

When I have cap or torques type bolts and they don't want to come undone I get a punch nominal a short tapper punch and hit the inside of the hex and this can loosen the bolt l use a 3 lbs hammer
Glen

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Ccmano · 05-14-2018

Good suggestions Glen. I couldn’t use a chisel on it because of the location. So I had to drill it. It’s the one in the center notch at the front of the cam cover immediately behind the chain hump on the cover.
H

gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz · 05-14-2018

I think drilling it was the way I would have done it once stripped let me know how you get on with it

Glen

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XfireZ51 · 05-14-2018

Hans,

Have u tried Kroil?

TX '90 ZR1 · 05-15-2018

I used to use a product by the name of "Mouse Milk" to get studs out of aluminum aircraft engine parts. It's not cheap, but I suppose you have to milk a lot of mice to get a bottle full!
I got it from a company by the name of Worldwide Filter in San Leandro, CA.
Don't know if it is still available, but it was good stuff.

Top Toy · 05-15-2018

Get a chuck type stud extractor and turn it out with an impact wrench.

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scottskill · 05-15-2018

Take a piece of metal sheet stock drill a hole the diameter of the bolt. Place it over the broken stud. Your going to use this sheet stock as a heat deflector for the area your working. Bend the sheet stock accordingly. Apply your heat wrench to the broken stud. Remove heat, apply visegrip on shank of stud while tapping with small hammer on stud. Remove broken stud.

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jss06c6 · 05-15-2018

Lots of potential solutions Hans.. all good ideas.. this is how I break these obnoxious ones loose..

First, get some freeze spray (usually available at an electronics store). You can also use a small bottle of NO2! Make sure you've got a nozzle you can control.. get a propane torch and gently heat the area immediately surrounding the bolt. Doesn't take too much! Direct your freeze spray on the exposed shaft of the stuck bolt. Only takes 3-4 seconds to chill and shrink the bolt. Get your vice grips on the bolt and remove it..

Good luck!

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05-14-2018	#1
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,842	Never fails, there’s always one... So I popped the cam covers on the new engine to get ready for cam timing and cam cover refinish. As expected removing the cam cover bolts was tricky, I got all but one out. Had to drill out that one bolt head because it stripped. After removing the cover these bolts usually unscrew with just a vicegrip. Not this one! It does not want to budge. It’s also in a tricky spot. I have to be careful not to marr the cam journal. Already put some penetrating oil on it. Going to heat it tomorrow. Any other suggestions from the collective wisdom? H __________________ 90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.

05-14-2018	#2
gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: New Zealand Posts: 386	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Have you tyred hitting it with a hammer this sometimes helps Regards Glen Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

05-14-2018	#3
gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: New Zealand Posts: 386	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... When I have cap or torques type bolts and they don't want to come undone I get a punch nominal a short tapper punch and hit the inside of the hex and this can loosen the bolt l use a 3 lbs hammer Glen Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

05-14-2018	#4
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,842	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Good suggestions Glen. I couldn’t use a chisel on it because of the location. So I had to drill it. It’s the one in the center notch at the front of the cam cover immediately behind the chain hump on the cover. H __________________ 90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.

05-14-2018	#5
gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: New Zealand Posts: 386	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... I think drilling it was the way I would have done it once stripped let me know how you get on with it Glen Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

05-14-2018	#6
XfireZ51 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 9,706	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Hans, Have u tried Kroil? __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX

05-15-2018	#7
TX '90 ZR1 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: TX Posts: 2,050	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... I used to use a product by the name of "Mouse Milk" to get studs out of aluminum aircraft engine parts. It's not cheap, but I suppose you have to milk a lot of mice to get a bottle full! I got it from a company by the name of Worldwide Filter in San Leandro, CA. Don't know if it is still available, but it was good stuff. __________________ Kenny 1990 #442

05-15-2018	#8
Top Toy Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Allentown, PA Posts: 309	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Get a chuck type stud extractor and turn it out with an impact wrench. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk __________________ '95 ZR-1, aqua/gray, #167 368 LPE/Haibeck, Web cams, Stainless Works headers, B&B Fusion exhaust, 18" Fikse wheels, Alcon brakes, lowered. 491 SAE RWHP.

05-15-2018	#9
scottskill Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Maple Park, Il. Posts: 54	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Take a piece of metal sheet stock drill a hole the diameter of the bolt. Place it over the broken stud. Your going to use this sheet stock as a heat deflector for the area your working. Bend the sheet stock accordingly. Apply your heat wrench to the broken stud. Remove heat, apply visegrip on shank of stud while tapping with small hammer on stud. Remove broken stud. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

05-15-2018	#10
jss06c6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Magnolia, Texas Posts: 884	Re: Never fails, there’s always one... Lots of potential solutions Hans.. all good ideas.. this is how I break these obnoxious ones loose.. First, get some freeze spray (usually available at an electronics store). You can also use a small bottle of NO2! Make sure you've got a nozzle you can control.. get a propane torch and gently heat the area immediately surrounding the bolt. Doesn't take too much! Direct your freeze spray on the exposed shaft of the stuck bolt. Only takes 3-4 seconds to chill and shrink the bolt. Get your vice grips on the bolt and remove it.. Good luck! Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app