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#1 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Posts: 473
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Hi,
When I bought the car, there was a clunk on the rear left suspension. I've been to 3 different garages and none of them could tell me where's the problem (including official inspection). Can't see anything wrong from underneath. You guys got any idea? |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,717
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Can you describe the noise with more detail?
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#3 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Montgomery TX
Posts: 263
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I just had an inner half shaft u-joint fail, was doing the same thing.
When your driving, will it pull to one side when you load it, then pull to the other when you unload? I think torque steer is a good indicator of a failing u-joint. Roll down driver and passenger windows, jack up the drivers side. Block the wheels, off the parking brake, put the car in neutral. Now grab the driver (left) half shaft and rotate it back and forth. Got sloop? Replace the u-joints with. 2 x http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-3615X...ilpage_o02_s02 2 x http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-3-70-48...ilpage_o02_s01 Safety First ![]() ![]() |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,646
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Another good u-joint source
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p422..._rebuild_.html
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Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake |
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#5 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Posts: 473
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Will check that out, thanks guys!
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#6 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Posts: 473
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Everything seems to be tight there, I recorded a quick video of the clunk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYQbYYCz-Ag |
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#7 |
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 780
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my guess is the sway bar end links. Have they been changed before or do they look in good condition? the rubber deteriorates over time and the metal sleeve will clink/clunk on the sway bar going over bumps.
Last edited by 5ABI VT; 04-27-2016 at 03:20 AM. |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,131
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I agree. I had a clunk in the rear of the 95 when I backed out of my driveway. Only 21,000 miles on the car. Marc looked it over and didn't see anything obvious but said the sway bar bushings looked dry. Replaced them and the clunk was gone. --Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#9 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Trois-Rivieres (QC)
Posts: 473
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Would make a bit of sense. I will remove the sway bar link, and see if the clunk goes away (I know a car can drive fine without a sway bar). I'll change it if I don't hear the clunks anymore.
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 1,148
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I changed my links recently and my original, old bushings were in very sad shape.FYI, (in case this saves you 10 min) - You can probably just remove one of the end link bolts, then tie-wrap the end link snugly temporarily as a test (rather than remove the entire end links).
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