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#1 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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ed.:
Any harnesses ground up front here, that need re-seating? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Will we ever get a perfect burn in the twister??? Always SOMEthin' will come up besides RodB's comment kinda' bothered me, about melted lens assemblies, and my bulbs ARE lit up.... Quote:
Out with the spray lube, and silicone spray. Fender well screws... Lower dam bolts... Last edited by Schrade; 09-30-2013 at 06:53 PM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Upper fascia trim bolts - break 'em loose, then work 'em back and forth while spray lube-ing...
Last 2, center, to hold it and and see what's left to disconnect, and impede removal... Bulbs from below. Last edited by Schrade; 09-30-2013 at 06:28 PM. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Bulbs D side.
Separation. Cleaner than one would expect for 23 years' debris collection (only 32k tho') |
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#4 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Lens assemblies.
Does the lens separate easily from the lens body? Mine are intact, but like most, I imagine, they have cracks at the edges... |
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#5 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,093
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While I dont think these come apart the fronts do.I polished mine awhile ago,took forever but well worth it.The fronts are coated with a clear so you will need to sand through that first.The lenses have a part number but these are impossible to find.I have a nice driver side marker for $75 if your interested.By the way I didnt pull the lenses from the housings on the front driving lights,too much of a chance breaking them.
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,786
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Waiting to see how your reinstall goes. I have found it difficult to line it up flush with the hood line. I did this to perform a repair on another C4.
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 885
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What a job Schrade. How long did it take to get the fascia off?
Are you doing this to remove the side marker lights only, or will you pull the front driving lights too? |
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#8 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,093
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This job is pretty straight forward,the hardest part of the install is getting the 9 bolts started along the top edge of the bumper.Getting the bumper lined up along the hood edge isnt a problem,there is no adjustment as least this is what I found on my 91.I had to pull the bumper to replace a driving light.
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,170
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Great job and will be well worth your efforts when done.
Actually there are quite a few adjustments that can be made all along the attachment areas for height and level and the shims behind the crash bar for hood gap and angle. With that said if it did not need any and you did not change them no need to. One thing I see is that the underside bumper cover center is missing/modified? No accesses covers to fog lamps.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
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#10 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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Took a few hours, only because I didn't know what to expect, with '90 frame under '91'-95 body. And there's already been evidence of '90 / '91-5 mis-match , with the air dam mounting. The triangular cut in the air dam sides was obviously to accommodate extra curve. (do body parts have 'year'? ) Only did it to re-insert the fog lamp bulbs there ghlkal - and sure didn't want to have melted lens bodies. I can't take stuff apart without thorough cleaning, including screw threads and bolt holes. Cleanup is in order here too... And there's paint dings - no better time to address them. One nasty mark circled... Then start knocking off road jam from the insides - scribe markings for the mounting plates... The same OUTboard bolt (yellow arrow) was missing from both sides. Any ideas? |
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