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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 247
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Went and had a new dual mass flywheel and clutch kit put in my Z.
It used to rattle at idle weather the clutch was engaged or disengaged, no difference. Now it only rattles when the clutch is engaged. Whats going on?
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Gary 90-1572 ![]() |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MD
Posts: 3,674
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Gary,
What else has been done to your car? Bad injectors make the flywheel make noise.... ![]() David |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: May 2013
Location: Beaver, PA
Posts: 515
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I'll second that on the injectors causing rattle. Mine was noisy when in neutral, engine idling, clutch out. The new injectors took away the noise.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 247
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New RC injectors about 5-6 years ago by Heibeck.
I'm also having a bit of a driveanility issue with a code 44. Left side O2 sensor lean. I changed the sensor yesterday and wow what a difference in acceleration. I'd forgot just how fast it was and it idled smoother for awhile. Then today the idle was rough again. The code 44 was back and the rattle too. I'm tending to believe the rough idle is causing the rattle.
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Gary 90-1572 ![]() |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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I'd want to eliminate a fuel delivery issue first: easy enough to do a fuel pressure test, making sure it isn't something like that. And, then too, changing spark plugs, another easy thing, might shed some light on it - go with the AC/Delco copper 41-602s ($2 ea, work great, and if it doesn't cure the idle problem, you can always switch back and keep the ACs for next time.
Just a thought. BTW, the opening for the O2 sensor wires, leading into the sensor body, MUST NOT be sealed! (Ask me how I know...). Otherwise they'll fail to work properly, as they depend on ambient air to work properly. (Course, a scanner would tell you instantly if you have a problem with the O2.) I can't say enough good about having either a scanner or a diagnostic software program for a laptop when it comes to troubleshooting. Beats the hell outta "change this and change that" approach. Just sayin. |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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Wait till the thing is cold then jack it up high enough
to crawl under and rap each CAT with your fist or a rubber mallet. Listen for the rattle. You could be hearing pieces of the ceramic CAT rattling. That was the source of mine.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 247
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What do you mean by the wires going into the sensor must not be sealed?
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Gary 90-1572 ![]() |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Jacksonville,FL
Posts: 247
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Thanks for the replies. I'm going to let Aaron at SGC find the rough idle problem. I'm sure thats what is causing the rattle.
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Gary 90-1572 ![]() |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: May 2013
Location: Beaver, PA
Posts: 515
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Since you show a code 44 and you replaced the O2 on that side and the problem came back it could be a injector problem either mechanical or electrical. The O2 is ahead of the cat and is responding to what it sees comming down the exhaust. (Lean or Rich) The rattle is more than likely due to the rough idle as that is what caused mine.
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