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05-26-2012
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#1 |
  
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Pretty sure I'm only running on one pump. Yesterday, it fell flat on it's face trying to shift to 2nd gear going out of the neighborhood. Felt weak after that. Stumbled a little this morninig but ran ok . I did notice when I was in 2nd or 3rd gear, it would not throw you back in the seat when WOT. Just gradually climbed RPM's. Not like the Permagrin requires.
Ran to Indy today to drive around the Indy 500 Speedway. Definitely no secondary Permagrin. Sounded a little different as well. It's always bugged me that I haven't done the fuel pumps. Looks like I'll get to do it now. If that doesn't cure it, I'll check the relays. I already have the pumps and a spare sending unit I got with the car.
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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05-26-2012
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#2 | |
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,120
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Quote:
Fuel Filter ?
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director  91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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05-26-2012
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#3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Yep, it's being changed at the same time. I bought all the parts for #702 and wish that I'd changed them out when the car was with Pete. Just kinda forgot at the time.
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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05-26-2012
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#4 | |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,120
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
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No Brett Im thinking it maybe something simple like a clogged fuel filter. Id start there.
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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05-27-2012
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#5 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Could be a pump, but it is easy enough to check them to be sure.
See LINK to post #7 in this thread re how to test to see if the pumps are both running. And, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. A fuel pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail (Schrader valve) should be about 52# when you energize the test connector (key OFF). The current draw is about 4-5 amperes per pump, so you should have approx 8-10+ amperes - will indicate both pumps are running, along with the 52# at the rail. If you have 4-5 amperes, it could be a pump or an electrical failure (fuse/relay, etc). photo showing proper meter configuration and indicating over 8 ampers (pumps are drawing the proper current, at least).  A dynamic test will confirm or deny if the fuel system is working in real world situations. To do it, you can tape the pressure gauge to the windshield and monitor FP in normal and WOT conditions.  At low throttle the pressure should be in the mid to upper 40s. At WOT the pressure should jump to about 52# and remain steady to 7k. If it isn't holding pressure at that level, delivery is in question (fuel filter??). Of course, you could just change out the pumps and not bother with what I've suggested. But, I DO suggest this logical approach cuz I had the pleasure of installing new pumps once and had a failure right out of the box, AND a clogged filter to boot (gotta love multiples...makes troubleshooting less mundane, doancha think?). The procedure I just described sorted out the pump AND filter issues at the same time, and will work for anybody contemplating a possible fuel delivery issue. I'm just sayin!  P. |
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05-27-2012
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Thanks, guys. Good info for sure!
Brett
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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05-27-2012
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#7 |
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Here's an oldie but goodie.
It's come up before but the last time I saw anything on it was over 10yrs ago and was on the old ZR-1 Registry mailing list. Keep your tank over 1/4 full. If you run out of fuel or run low when doing hard corners you run the risk of running the pump(s) without fuel. This is a known "no no" and damages the pump(s). There is a "tub" inside the tank that keeps fuel close to the pumps in hard corners but alas...... it is ineffective. The other failure mechanism is leaving the car sit with low fuel levels. If air gets to the contacts in the pump..... no good. Tomorrow is Memorial Day. My undying gratitude goes to those who have died in the service of this nation. 
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Scott  Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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05-31-2012
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#8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,899
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
Well, tomorrow was a few more days than I had anticipated. Got the pumps changed and it runs fine. I did the old" turn the key off and see if I could feel a difference in power" trick. Permagrin!
Now, if I could just get the fuel gage to register correctly. It reads fine with the key ON. But....after the car is started, it reads near full (and it's only 1/2 full). The unit did not want to seat when it was about .50-1.0" from the bottom. I wiggled it a bunch before it finally seated. Maybe the float is rubbing in the tank???
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
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05-31-2012
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#9 | |
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pineville, LA
Posts: 584
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Re: Changing Fuel Pumps Tomorrow
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CJ's did not want to seat but I wiggled and gave it about a 1/4 turn and it sat right down, no forcing it at all. I would check that first the float could have gotten in a bind or slightly bent. Daniel |
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Linear Mode
