Cooling system question - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Don in VT · 10-31-2011

Hi

I am going to drain the cooling system in our 90Z while I do several things to the system. Because I am going to take most of the long cold winter here in VT to do the work is there any downside to leaving the cooling system without any coolant?

I can tape of the coolant pipes and tubes if necessary. My concern is with the air getting at the drained system could cause some scale build up or corrosion that will cause problems when I refil the coolant in the summer. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Best Regards,

Don

tomtom72 · 11-01-2011

Don, this is probably a dumb thought, but my first reaction to leaving my motor empty of coolant over the winter was:

Is the garage heated?
If not, then I would opt to flush the system out very well using plain tap water as long as it has a low mineral content. Next I would do a couple of pure distilled water flushes. I would take my shop vac & suck out the remaining water from the block. Then reverse the vac and blow out the motor very well. Lastly I might get some of those absorbent packs, the small ones, and put them inside the I/H tubes and the w/pump inlet before duck taping the openings shut. Oh, forgot this on the fire side I'd do a winter lay up evolution too! Like you would do to a marine motor for winter storage.

I' out where the buses don't run though, so all that bs is proly stupid. The right answer maybe somewhere between what I just wrote and doing nothing!

Tom

A26B · 11-01-2011

FWIW:
Personal experience. When I built an engine for testing the new head gaskets, I installed a new waterpump. The engine was filled with plain water for the dyno runs. When testing was completed, the engine sat for about a month before took it apart.

The new water pump impeller had a fair amount of visible rust already. Bear in mind, this was just the engine and it was rocked around on a hoist a couple of times during the handling after the dyno testing. Water stays in some areas, no matter what you do.
About 2007, I had 30 LT5 engines (used test engines) at one time, that came out of GM warehousing. They were placed there, unprotected for the most part, in about 1991. Turn them over on the engine stand and coolant ran out. Pump impellers were heavily rusted above the coolant level.

I'm not saying it will cause a problem, as Don asked, but am saying that I don't think you will ever dry out the engine completely to the point dissicant packs will do anything beneficial to prevent rust.

GOLDCYLON · 11-01-2011

It will never be completely drained. As stated above Just flush it and replenish using the 50/50 rule equal water and distilled water.

tccrab · 11-01-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by A26B

FWIW:
<snip>
About 2007, I had 30 LT5 engines (used test engines) at one time, that came out of GM warehousing.
<snip>

Jerry:
Just because I'm curious, and totally off topic, but since you've mentioned them, where did those engines wind up and what is to become of them?
Did you save any pictures of them?
I didn't <right click, save as> when you had the pictures of them on your website.

TomC
'Crabs

A26B · 11-01-2011

Tom,
I don't mind if Don doesn't, since it's his thread.
I sold several engines during the year or so that I had them and then sold the rest to one collector that moved them to Tulsa for his own personal collection. At the time his intended use was for a personal museum. To the best of my knowledge, they are still in storage in Tulsa. I'm not sure if his plans have changed or not.

Re pictures: I still have photos of each engine. I wish I would have taken more, but I wasn't as astute on the historical aspect as I should have been. I have 210 pictures.

Here's a photo of my LT5 man cave.

Don in VT · 11-01-2011

Hi All,

First Off, Please go ahead and use the thread A26B and anyone else that wants to join in as well. No problem on my end.

Second, Thanks A26B, TomTom and GOLDCYLON for the great responses. I will leave the cooling system alone until spring as it is fully charged and good down to 35 below. I will just buy parts and be ready in April or May to start the projects.

Hope you and your familys have a great Thanksgiving.

Regards,

Don

65ZR1 · 11-02-2011

Passing along some advice I was given. Never flush the cooling system out and then store a motor. There is always a chance that some water was left somewhere in the system and it could freeze. If you just drain the coolant, any bits that are left shouldnt freeze.

xlr8nflorida · 11-02-2011

I'm not sure what would be accomplished by draining it?

The negative side is high and the positive side is low.

Just fill with good coolant/distilled water and call it a day.

10-31-2011	#1
Don in VT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Fairfax, VT Posts: 203	Cooling system question Hi I am going to drain the cooling system in our 90Z while I do several things to the system. Because I am going to take most of the long cold winter here in VT to do the work is there any downside to leaving the cooling system without any coolant? I can tape of the coolant pipes and tubes if necessary. My concern is with the air getting at the drained system could cause some scale build up or corrosion that will cause problems when I refil the coolant in the summer. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Best Regards, Don

11-01-2011	#2
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,609	Re: Cooling system question Don, this is probably a dumb thought, but my first reaction to leaving my motor empty of coolant over the winter was: Is the garage heated? If not, then I would opt to flush the system out very well using plain tap water as long as it has a low mineral content. Next I would do a couple of pure distilled water flushes. I would take my shop vac & suck out the remaining water from the block. Then reverse the vac and blow out the motor very well. Lastly I might get some of those absorbent packs, the small ones, and put them inside the I/H tubes and the w/pump inlet before duck taping the openings shut. Oh, forgot this on the fire side I'd do a winter lay up evolution too! Like you would do to a marine motor for winter storage. I' out where the buses don't run though, so all that bs is proly stupid. The right answer maybe somewhere between what I just wrote and doing nothing! Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

11-01-2011	#3
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia, OK Posts: 3,392	Re: Cooling system question FWIW: Personal experience. When I built an engine for testing the new head gaskets, I installed a new waterpump. The engine was filled with plain water for the dyno runs. When testing was completed, the engine sat for about a month before took it apart. The new water pump impeller had a fair amount of visible rust already. Bear in mind, this was just the engine and it was rocked around on a hoist a couple of times during the handling after the dyno testing. Water stays in some areas, no matter what you do. About 2007, I had 30 LT5 engines (used test engines) at one time, that came out of GM warehousing. They were placed there, unprotected for the most part, in about 1991. Turn them over on the engine stand and coolant ran out. Pump impellers were heavily rusted above the coolant level. I'm not saying it will cause a problem, as Don asked, but am saying that I don't think you will ever dry out the engine completely to the point dissicant packs will do anything beneficial to prevent rust. __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

11-01-2011	#4
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,123	Re: Cooling system question It will never be completely drained. As stated above Just flush it and replenish using the 50/50 rule equal water and distilled water. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

11-01-2011	#6
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia, OK Posts: 3,392	Re: Cooling system question Tom, I don't mind if Don doesn't, since it's his thread. I sold several engines during the year or so that I had them and then sold the rest to one collector that moved them to Tulsa for his own personal collection. At the time his intended use was for a personal museum. To the best of my knowledge, they are still in storage in Tulsa. I'm not sure if his plans have changed or not. Re pictures: I still have photos of each engine. I wish I would have taken more, but I wasn't as astute on the historical aspect as I should have been. I have 210 pictures. Here's a photo of my LT5 man cave. __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.

11-01-2011	#7
Don in VT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Fairfax, VT Posts: 203	Re: Cooling system question Hi All, First Off, Please go ahead and use the thread A26B and anyone else that wants to join in as well. No problem on my end. Second, Thanks A26B, TomTom and GOLDCYLON for the great responses. I will leave the cooling system alone until spring as it is fully charged and good down to 35 below. I will just buy parts and be ready in April or May to start the projects. Hope you and your familys have a great Thanksgiving. Regards, Don

11-02-2011	#8
65ZR1 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 139	Re: Cooling system question Passing along some advice I was given. Never flush the cooling system out and then store a motor. There is always a chance that some water was left somewhere in the system and it could freeze. If you just drain the coolant, any bits that are left shouldnt freeze.

11-02-2011	#9
xlr8nflorida Join Date: May 2008 Location: USA Posts: 1,093	Re: Cooling system question I'm not sure what would be accomplished by draining it? The negative side is high and the positive side is low. Just fill with good coolant/distilled water and call it a day.