P/S Fluid Change - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

gbmidyear66 · 09-13-2011

- The fluid in my P/S resevoir looked like used motor oil (very well used), so thought I should change it.

- The new fluid I bought is clear. I've now drained and filled the resevoir (turkey baster) 3 times now, and it's still dark brown, maybe a little less viscous than the first time.

- Am I ever going to get clear fuild? Is there any gain to keep draining and refilling the resevoir? (I've already used up the full liter I bought)

Glenn

xlr8nflorida · 09-13-2011

Use a turkey baster to suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir.

Re-fill the reservoir (don't overfill!). You'll need to place the cap in a few times, removing it to examine the level. When full, screw the cap back on.

Start the car. Move the steering wheel from full lock left to full lock right at least 4 times.

REPEAT STEPS Several times! It's a slow process but you will get there.

GOLDCYLON · 09-13-2011

Maybe after 4 liters and exchanging the fluids after repeating a rack to rack then turkey baster procedure.

gbmidyear66 · 09-13-2011

Yes, of course I drove the car between cycles of replacement of the reservoir.

I'll get some more fluid and give it a couple of more cycles and see if it cleans up

Thanks

secondchance · 09-13-2011

Following is the instruction from Cardone website:

The #1 steering problem CARDONE encounters during analysis of customer returns is failure related to contamination in the system. Failure to flush the system correctly can lead to several premature issues such as binding, poor turnability, leaking, hard steering or noise.
The processes below will greatly minimize steering system contamination while also preventing excessive air from entering the system. During the flushing process, the engine is not running at high RPMs. This does not allow air to enter easily into the system, but bleeding must still be performed.
Use this process to properly flush the steering system when replacing any steering component. Remember that skipping a step in the process usually results in a comeback.

Fill the power steering pump reservoir with new fluid recommended for your vehicle (or see CARDONE’s recommended fluid list), but do not hook up the return hose from the rack & pinion or gear. Place the return hose in a container to catch the fluid and cap the return port on the reservoir to prevent leakage.
Disconnect the coil in order to allow the engine to crank, but not start.
This is where the buddy system should be used, in order to prevent a run-dry condition and premature damage to the power steering pump. One person needs to crank/turn off the engine, the second person must fill the fluid reservoir and watch the return hose
Buddy #1: Crank the engine for less than 20 seconds.
Buddy #2: Fill the reservoir
Buddy #1: Turn off the key
Let the engine rest for about 30 seconds and repeat the flush procedure, as needed until the new fluid runs out of the return hose. Buddy #2 can turn the steering wheel, while cranking, to allow the fluid to pass through all areas of the system.
Connect the return hoses to the power steering pump.
Top off fluid reservoir to the specified level.
Reconnect the coil.
Continue with the bleeding procedure.
Start the vehicle and begin bleeding the system of air by cycling the steering wheel from side to side a minimum of four times.
Take the vehicle for a test drive; if assist is smooth the bleeding is complete. If assist is erratic and jerky, more bleeding is required.
Continue bleeding until all air is removed from the system.
To check a vehicle to see if air is causing a power steering whine, simply take off the cap on the reservoir and inspect the fluid with the engine running. Any foaming or bubbles in the fluid will indicate air in the system that needs to be purged.

NOTE: Some vehicles require minimal bleeding, while others require patience and persistence. Refer to the article titled “Vacuum Bleeding”. Allowing the vehicle to sit for a few hours may allow the air bubble to rise. If unsuccessful, there may be additional O.E. procedures available; Technical questions can be emailed to CARDONE’s Technical Services team here.

I don't know what the access is like to power steering hose for our cars.

09-13-2011	#3
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,117	Re: P/S Fluid Change Maybe after 4 liters and exchanging the fluids after repeating a rack to rack then turkey baster procedure. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

09-13-2011	#4
gbmidyear66 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 251	Re: P/S Fluid Change Yes, of course I drove the car between cycles of replacement of the reservoir. I'll get some more fluid and give it a couple of more cycles and see if it cleans up Thanks

09-13-2011	#5
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,730	Re: P/S Fluid Change Following is the instruction from Cardone website: The #1 steering problem CARDONE encounters during analysis of customer returns is failure related to contamination in the system. Failure to flush the system correctly can lead to several premature issues such as binding, poor turnability, leaking, hard steering or noise. The processes below will greatly minimize steering system contamination while also preventing excessive air from entering the system. During the flushing process, the engine is not running at high RPMs. This does not allow air to enter easily into the system, but bleeding must still be performed. Use this process to properly flush the steering system when replacing any steering component. Remember that skipping a step in the process usually results in a comeback. Fill the power steering pump reservoir with new fluid recommended for your vehicle (or see CARDONE’s recommended fluid list), but do not hook up the return hose from the rack & pinion or gear. Place the return hose in a container to catch the fluid and cap the return port on the reservoir to prevent leakage. Disconnect the coil in order to allow the engine to crank, but not start. This is where the buddy system should be used, in order to prevent a run-dry condition and premature damage to the power steering pump. One person needs to crank/turn off the engine, the second person must fill the fluid reservoir and watch the return hose Buddy #1: Crank the engine for less than 20 seconds. Buddy #2: Fill the reservoir Buddy #1: Turn off the key Let the engine rest for about 30 seconds and repeat the flush procedure, as needed until the new fluid runs out of the return hose. Buddy #2 can turn the steering wheel, while cranking, to allow the fluid to pass through all areas of the system. Connect the return hoses to the power steering pump. Top off fluid reservoir to the specified level. Reconnect the coil. Continue with the bleeding procedure. Start the vehicle and begin bleeding the system of air by cycling the steering wheel from side to side a minimum of four times. Take the vehicle for a test drive; if assist is smooth the bleeding is complete. If assist is erratic and jerky, more bleeding is required. Continue bleeding until all air is removed from the system. To check a vehicle to see if air is causing a power steering whine, simply take off the cap on the reservoir and inspect the fluid with the engine running. Any foaming or bubbles in the fluid will indicate air in the system that needs to be purged. NOTE: Some vehicles require minimal bleeding, while others require patience and persistence. Refer to the article titled “Vacuum Bleeding”. Allowing the vehicle to sit for a few hours may allow the air bubble to rise. If unsuccessful, there may be additional O.E. procedures available; Technical questions can be emailed to CARDONE’s Technical Services team here. I don't know what the access is like to power steering hose for our cars.

09-13-2011	#1
gbmidyear66 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 251	P/S Fluid Change - The fluid in my P/S resevoir looked like used motor oil (very well used), so thought I should change it. - The new fluid I bought is clear. I've now drained and filled the resevoir (turkey baster) 3 times now, and it's still dark brown, maybe a little less viscous than the first time. - Am I ever going to get clear fuild? Is there any gain to keep draining and refilling the resevoir? (I've already used up the full liter I bought) Glenn

09-13-2011	#2
xlr8nflorida Join Date: May 2008 Location: USA Posts: 1,093	Re: P/S Fluid Change Use a turkey baster to suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir. Re-fill the reservoir (don't overfill!). You'll need to place the cap in a few times, removing it to examine the level. When full, screw the cap back on. Start the car. Move the steering wheel from full lock left to full lock right at least 4 times. REPEAT STEPS Several times! It's a slow process but you will get there.