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#1 |
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 113
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I have a bad sensor in one wheel from a guy using fix a flat in the tire, I want to remove all of the sensors and disable the warning light if I can. I deal with this all the time at work (midwest weather) and don't need to have work follow me home too. Is there a way to do this so I can use my brain and check tire pressure on my own?
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#2 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,093
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If its orange one there is NEW one on line now for like $80. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 113
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I'm not in love with the things to start with and like I said we constantly have them going off at work on our vehicles (mostly Ford Windstars/Freestars) and they drive me insane. LOL I'd just like to disable them if I can along with the warning light unless there is a reason not to do it. Thanks for the quick reply. BTW they are all original sensors.
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#4 | |
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 113
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,093
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The C4 system uses a transmitting wheel sensor held in place by large band clamp. Each sensor has a separate identification color and frequency, which is transmitted as the wheel turns. If a sensor gets mounted to the wrong wheel, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be sent. Wheel position, sensor colors and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are as follows:
* Right Rear: Orange, DTC=24 * Left Rear: Yellow, DTC=34 * Left Front: Green, DTC=44 * Right Front: Blue, DTC= 54 It is possible to attain the code from your dashboard. With the key in the “on” position, press and hold the “Trip/Odo” button until “1.1″ is visible on the trip odometer readout. Next, press the “Eng/Met” button to scroll down the present code list (which is displayed at the MPH indicator) until you see the applicable one. The movement of the wheel provides the energy necessary to power the transmitter. If the tire pressure drops below 25 PSI, the sensor stops transmitting to the receiver, and the “Service LTPWS” lamp illuminates. The sensors don’t require batteries, and the receivers don’t need to be reprogrammed. I believe that most just unplug the bulb in the dashboard. I believe others have removed them and got no light (lucky) and then others have disconnected the brain that the sensors "talk to" Somebody will chime in. Like I said they were designed for 100,000 miles and don't use batteries. I don't see alot of people with issues on them. Although if you don't have them, there will absolutely be no issues ![]() Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 02-20-2011 at 03:12 PM. |
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#6 |
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 113
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So I guess if they're sitting in the garage 10 miles away then they can't transmit a signal then can they.
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 673
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I believe that for the '90 MY only, removal of all sensors will result in no LTPWS light.
For the '91-'95 models, the bulb must be removed from the DIC. |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,093
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Sometimes, I think the light is not triggered.
Here are 3 options. Pull the cruise control switch Fuse but then you won't have cruise. Remove the bulb Ghetto Fix Put some black electrical tape over the light, and then get one of those snazzy C4 decorative plates that go over the DIC. ![]() |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,093
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#10 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,341
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I have a 94 and after I removed them the light stayed off until one day when I disc the battery and reconnected it. I guess it reset then and has been on ever since. I think about taking the bulb our every now and then, but the sensors are still mounted on my A-Molds, so if I ever feel like switching back the system will still work. I wish it was programmable.
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