Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

ammrpm · 12-30-2010

Any of you Houston guys had to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder recently?

It looks like I may have a leak at the slave cylinder. I don't see a leak around the slave itself. I see a small drip of fluid where the transmission mates to the bellhousing at the lowest point. The fluid in the master is low as well. I am assuming that the end seal of the slave has failed and is allowing some fluid to leak into the bellhousing area. I will know for sure when I remove it.

Any tips, tricks or advice anyone can provide on changing these things? I think I am gonna replace the master and slave at the same time.

Thanks!

gbrtng · 12-30-2010

The slave in my 91 has always leaked a little but not enough to bother with replacing it. I just check the fluid level in the master every 1000 miles or so and add when necessary. Got stranded once with no clutch action at all and discovered no fluid in the master. That was when the car had about 10,000 miles and I didn't know it leaked. So I improvised and borrowed some fluid from the brake master cylinder to get it home.

Z51JEFF · 12-30-2010

Not from Houston but I did replace the Slave about 6 months ago.Took forever to bleed the system.Finally used my Mityvac to force fluid up through the slave to the master.Lots of info here when the time comes.

pantera1683 · 12-30-2010

When I first got my car I wanted to replace all the fluids, so I bled the clutch fluid through the slave with a mityvac pump and it worked fine.

A few weeks later I upgraded the brakes and installed a brake bias spring in the master cylinder. It required me to remove the master from the car to install. After I reinstalled it, I bled the master with a plastic kit from one of the auto parts stores. I threaded the plastic nipples into the side ports, filled the master with fluid and attached the vacuum tubes to the nipples. I placed the other side of the vacuum tubes into the brake fluid, pumped the brakes a few times to get all the air out of the master, removed the tubes and nipples, attached the brake lines, bled the slave with the pump and I was done.

All-in-all, it was pretty easy.

Good luck.

tomtom72 · 12-30-2010

I would just mention that if yours is a 90? Buy the 91 & up line from the master to the slave. The early line, 89 & 90, doesn't fit well on the new slave cylinders. You have to adjust it a bit to fit. If yours is not a 90 then you are good to go parts wise.

A quick suggestion on method: gill panel off, battery out, and the clutch master cylinder's nuts are easy. You don't have to do this extra work, but it makes getting on the clutch master cylinder nuts easier.

Tom

rhipsher · 12-30-2010

PM sent.

Kb7tif · 12-30-2010

I replaced both master and slave same time, was pretty much uneventful and simple and should be or something is wrong. PM sent.
Take the drivers seat out.

ammrpm · 12-31-2010

Quick update...

I am about half way thru this project. I have removed and replaced the master. I have removed the old slave and called it quits for the night. I will try to get to the rest tomorrow or over the weekend. I think the hard part is going to be getting all the air out of the system, but we will see. I have a mityvac I am going to use to reverse bleed the system by pushing fluid into the slave and up to the master.

Thanks for all the advice and comments!

QB93Z · 12-31-2010

I have never had a problem bleeding the air out of the clutch system. Here are a couple of tips:

1 "Fill" the slave with fluid before you install it. I do this by putting the slave cylinder in the vise and push in the piston (against spring force). Then slowly let the piston travel out while adding fluid at the tubing connection. (a small funnel helps). You don't need to have it 100% full because when you install it, the piston is pushed inward by the clutch fork.

2. Attach the line to the slave before you install the slave to the bell housing. Then when you push the slave against the clutch fork, the fluid displaced by the piston inward movement will fill the line and the master cylinder.

3. When you operate the clutch pedal to get any remaining air out of the line, DO NOT install the master clyinder seal cup and/or cap.

Good luck.

Jim

rhipsher · 12-31-2010

Two words. Reverse bleed.

12-30-2010	#1
ammrpm Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 67	Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston Any of you Houston guys had to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder recently? It looks like I may have a leak at the slave cylinder. I don't see a leak around the slave itself. I see a small drip of fluid where the transmission mates to the bellhousing at the lowest point. The fluid in the master is low as well. I am assuming that the end seal of the slave has failed and is allowing some fluid to leak into the bellhousing area. I will know for sure when I remove it. Any tips, tricks or advice anyone can provide on changing these things? I think I am gonna replace the master and slave at the same time. Thanks!

12-30-2010	#2
gbrtng Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: San Antonio area Posts: 1,177	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston The slave in my 91 has always leaked a little but not enough to bother with replacing it. I just check the fluid level in the master every 1000 miles or so and add when necessary. Got stranded once with no clutch action at all and discovered no fluid in the master. That was when the car had about 10,000 miles and I didn't know it leaked. So I improvised and borrowed some fluid from the brake master cylinder to get it home. __________________ “Buy the best example of what you want, and pay whatever it takes. That way, you cry only once.” ~ Bruce Meyer

12-30-2010	#3
Z51JEFF Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fremont, CA Posts: 3,087	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston Not from Houston but I did replace the Slave about 6 months ago.Took forever to bleed the system.Finally used my Mityvac to force fluid up through the slave to the master.Lots of info here when the time comes.

12-30-2010	#4
pantera1683 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 391	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston When I first got my car I wanted to replace all the fluids, so I bled the clutch fluid through the slave with a mityvac pump and it worked fine. A few weeks later I upgraded the brakes and installed a brake bias spring in the master cylinder. It required me to remove the master from the car to install. After I reinstalled it, I bled the master with a plastic kit from one of the auto parts stores. I threaded the plastic nipples into the side ports, filled the master with fluid and attached the vacuum tubes to the nipples. I placed the other side of the vacuum tubes into the brake fluid, pumped the brakes a few times to get all the air out of the master, removed the tubes and nipples, attached the brake lines, bled the slave with the pump and I was done. All-in-all, it was pretty easy. Good luck.

12-30-2010	#5
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,609	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston I would just mention that if yours is a 90? Buy the 91 & up line from the master to the slave. The early line, 89 & 90, doesn't fit well on the new slave cylinders. You have to adjust it a bit to fit. If yours is not a 90 then you are good to go parts wise. A quick suggestion on method: gill panel off, battery out, and the clutch master cylinder's nuts are easy. You don't have to do this extra work, but it makes getting on the clutch master cylinder nuts easier. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

12-30-2010	#6
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,314	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston PM sent.

12-30-2010	#7
Kb7tif Join Date: May 2009 Location: S Nevada Posts: 351	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston I replaced both master and slave same time, was pretty much uneventful and simple and should be or something is wrong. PM sent. Take the drivers seat out.

12-31-2010	#8
ammrpm Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 67	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston Quick update... I am about half way thru this project. I have removed and replaced the master. I have removed the old slave and called it quits for the night. I will try to get to the rest tomorrow or over the weekend. I think the hard part is going to be getting all the air out of the system, but we will see. I have a mityvac I am going to use to reverse bleed the system by pushing fluid into the slave and up to the master. Thanks for all the advice and comments!

12-31-2010	#9
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,684	Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder replacement in Houston I have never had a problem bleeding the air out of the clutch system. Here are a couple of tips: 1 "Fill" the slave with fluid before you install it. I do this by putting the slave cylinder in the vise and push in the piston (against spring force). Then slowly let the piston travel out while adding fluid at the tubing connection. (a small funnel helps). You don't need to have it 100% full because when you install it, the piston is pushed inward by the clutch fork. 2. Attach the line to the slave before you install the slave to the bell housing. Then when you push the slave against the clutch fork, the fluid displaced by the piston inward movement will fill the line and the master cylinder. 3. When you operate the clutch pedal to get any remaining air out of the line, DO NOT install the master clyinder seal cup and/or cap. Good luck. Jim