|
|
|||||||
| View Poll Results: Which battery do you have in your ZR-1? | |||
| AC Delco |
   
|
115 | 46.37% |
| Autocraft |
  
|
4 | 1.61% |
| EverStart (Wal-Mart) |
  
|
13 | 5.24% |
| Exide |
  
|
5 | 2.02% |
| Kirkland (Costco) |
  
|
2 | 0.81% |
| Interstate |
  
|
25 | 10.08% |
| MAXX |
|
3 | 1.21% |
| NAPA |
|
4 | 1.61% |
| Nascar (Sams Club) |
|
1 | 0.40% |
| Optima |
|
30 | 12.10% |
| Sears Diehard |
|
14 | 5.65% |
| Bosch |
|
5 | 2.02% |
| Duralast (Autozone) |
|
19 | 7.66% |
| Odyssey |
|
6 | 2.42% |
| Braille |
|
2 | 0.81% |
| Voters: 248. You may not vote on this poll | |||
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-24-2012
|
#61 | |
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,549
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
Thanks for sharing about the Odyssey batteries; very good to know. Which model do you recommend for the ZR-1s? Thanks, Craig
__________________
Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 
|
|
|
|
|
03-25-2012
|
#62 |
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 55
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Odyssey recommends the 75-PC1320 for th ZR-1.
|
|
|
|
|
03-25-2012
|
#63 | |
 Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,479
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
__________________
Robert J. DeMarco [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR=blue]G[/COLOR][COLOR=red]rand[/COLOR] [COLOR=blue]S[/COLOR][COLOR=red]port[/COLOR] Registry Lifetime Member NCM Lifetime Member #2655 Pacecar Registry Member [COLOR=red]ZOOM Charter Member - ZR-1 Owners of Michigan[/COLOR] [COLOR=plum][I]ZR-1[/I] Registry member since 2012 [/COLOR] [COLOR=black]1990 LPE "368" Aerobody ZR-1, Last ZR-1 built by John[/COLOR] 1991 Callaway Aerobody ZR-1, DRM 500 1991 Shinoda Aerobody Spyder, 1998 Pace Car |
|
|
|
|
|
03-26-2012
|
#64 |
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,904
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Optima
__________________
1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
|
|
|
|
03-26-2012
|
#65 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
Posts: 7,994
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
You can get an Optima to fit????
|
|
|
|
|
01-08-2014
|
#66 | |
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
__________________
Scott  Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
|
|
|
|
|
01-08-2014
|
#67 | |
|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,479
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
__________________
Robert J. DeMarco [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR=blue]G[/COLOR][COLOR=red]rand[/COLOR] [COLOR=blue]S[/COLOR][COLOR=red]port[/COLOR] Registry Lifetime Member NCM Lifetime Member #2655 Pacecar Registry Member [COLOR=red]ZOOM Charter Member - ZR-1 Owners of Michigan[/COLOR] [COLOR=plum][I]ZR-1[/I] Registry member since 2012 [/COLOR] [COLOR=black]1990 LPE "368" Aerobody ZR-1, Last ZR-1 built by John[/COLOR] 1991 Callaway Aerobody ZR-1, DRM 500 1991 Shinoda Aerobody Spyder, 1998 Pace Car |
|
|
|
|
|
01-10-2014
|
#68 | |
  
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
I've had 'em for 13 years on various vehicles. Ami's battery is a plain ol' Walmart issue that has been in her C3 for 9 years now. Went out in the middle of this -16º degree cold snap and that battery cranked that 11:1 compression L46 SBC like new. When the BTs came out they sported much the same so-called "smart charger" technology that was reminiscent from my days of maintaining unmanned radio relay stations in So Cal. Those sites would have banks of lead-acid batteries and some sophisticated battery switching/redundancy circuits, and they were charged and pulsed (de-sulfated) by these big LaMarche tenders. I have NO idea how old some of those batteries were, but 10 years + at least. Yep. Whenever the Z and the "3" are parked, they go on the BT. (I can't speak for Ctech chargers, but I understand they've similar technology and work well too). I never have to give winter storage a second thought, far as batteries go. Never!
__________________
Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
|
|
|
|
|
01-10-2014
|
#69 |
|
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Some may NOT know that name brand batteries are often made by more than one manufacture, depending on where the regional warehouse locations are vs. the battery manufacturing facility. And, truth be known, many competing brands are often built by the same manufacture!
Delphi Automotive & Johnson Controls are two of the bigger automotive manufactures that make batteries for a variety of labels - sometimes under the same label. And, there are other manufactures as well. My point is, don't be fooled by all the marketing hype! Regardless of the label on the battery, it may have come from one of may different manufactures. For example, a well marketed battery like the Die Hard has other lesser known and less expensive (in many cases) competing labels...made to the same specs by the same manufacture! Armed with this knowledge...it pays to shop around! For example, here is a partial list of manufactures and the labels they supply product for. Kinda eye-opening! Johnson Controls Inc. [JCI], (US) +1-414-524-2434, 1-888-867-8462 or http://www.jci.com/ or http://www.autobatteries.com/ Acura, (US) contact local Acura dealer; 1-800-383-7323; or http://www.autobatteries.com/Enertec Mexico (formally Joint Venture with Grupo IMSA), (Mexico) +8-329-9500, 1-800-835-4800 or http://www.enertec.com.mx/ AdvantageDelphi Automotive, (US) +1-248-813-2000 ACDelco, (US) please see General MotorsFor sources (herein) and links to many other specific manufactures see THIS LINK
__________________
Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
|
|
|
|
01-10-2014
|
#70 | |
|
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
|
Re: Which battery do you have?
Quote:
The chemical part occurs with or without the battery connected. This is due to "sulfation"; a slow chemical reaction where the sulfur (in the sulfuric acid (H2SO4) combines with Lead (Pb) to form Lead Sulfate (PBSO4.) The lead-sulfate crystals (sulfation) will remain in solution for a time, but eventually the molecules attache themselves to the lead plates and arrange themselves into a non-conductive crystalline bond structure that spreads over the lead plates. As the non-conductive crystalline coating spreads, the effective area of the plates is gradually reduced, and thus the area of the plate available to the electrolyte to produce current is reduced. The crystalline formation is disrupted when the battery is charged. A car that is regularly driven charges the battery often enough that the sulfation is not a problem. However, for occasional use vehicles (toys), sulfation will occur (which, by the way, results in the battery self-discharging; the rate of which depends on temperature and the state of the battery condition, but typically around 4% per month). To maintain the battery during extended periods of non-use, a trickle charge will help. However, trickle chargers can over-charge a battery and eventually "boil" it dry and hasten the formation of lead precipitation that settles in the bottom of the case (eventually shorting out the lead plates resulting in a dead cell). However, a special battery conditioning charger (e.g., the fore mentioned BTs or Cteks to name a couple) will monitor the battery charge level and pulse the battery to break up the sulfation without overcharging or boiling the battery, AND be able to carry the normal electric load imposed by the ECM, etc, as well. So! If you use one of the conditioning chargers, you have the best of both: peak performance and longivity and you can leave the battery connected which preserves all your radio pre-sets, and BLM memory, etc. Sorry. I sometimes revert to my electronics teaching days and get carried away. 
__________________
Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 01-15-2014 at 07:52 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
