AC Vacuum Pump and Oil

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Reading all of this made me decide to leave my A/C service to a professional.
Craig

Craig.....After all you have done to your ZR1 yourself.....the A/C should be a cake walk

I made the mistake and I would expect others have done the same (maybe) moving the A/C compressor once too many times. I lift it and swing it over on top of drivers side wheel well when removing engine. What I should have done is tie those A/C lines going to the Evaporator down so they do not move breaking the fitting to the A/C Evaporator (right in front of the passenger side).

I have an A/C Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, A drier from Ecklers, HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set from Ebay, and some refrigerant. Maybe get some oil also. I will let you know how it goes

I really like working on the ZR1s and am getting very efficient at removing the windshield wiper motor, removing the A/C cover on the Evaporator, removing the Transmission, and lifting the LT5 out of the ZR1 (yep...with Headers attached)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Craig.....After all you have done to your ZR1 yourself.....the A/C should be a cake walk

I made the mistake and I would expect others have done the same (maybe) moving the A/C compressor once too many times. I lift it and swing it over on top of drivers side wheel well when removing engine. What I should have done is tie those A/C lines going to the Evaporator down so they do not move breaking the fitting to the A/C Evaporator (right in front of the passenger side).

I have an A/C Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, A drier from Ecklers, HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set from Ebay, and some refrigerant. Maybe get some oil also. I will let you know how it goes

I really like working on the ZR1s and am getting very efficient at removing the windshield wiper motor, removing the A/C cover on the Evaporator, removing the Transmission, and lifting the LT5 out of the ZR1 (yep...with Headers attached)

You might be right and that is what I thought, but I admit I don't know diddly squat about air conditioning systems. I do have an article saved from one of the Corvette magazines that I thought would help. More research and I might be comfortable tackling the job. I just want it right and A/C is important to have in the summer months here and in Hawaii year round. Take care and best wishes with the repair.

[vilant]

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Not sure what the rules are in Japan but here in the U.S. this is all you need to do it legally. There's other Youtube videos and online courses to learn more, along with your FSM. Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by vilant

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

Thank you Joe (vilant)
That is some good stuff right there

In my case I have several vehicles where the A/C is not working as well as it should and it is relatively expensive to have others do it. I guess that is why we do our own mechanic work on the LT5

Also........ on the LT5 it is rare to find a mechanic familiar enough to know it will be done the right way.

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

You might be right and that is what I thought, but I admit I don't know diddly squat about air conditioning systems.

Me neither....but then again I did not know diddly squat about the LT5 a couple years ago (some say I still do not know diddly squat)

[vilant]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Thank you vilant
That is some good stuff right there

In my case I have several vehicles where the A/C is not working as well as it should and it is relatively expensive to have others do it. I guess that is why we do our own mechanic work on the LT5

Also........ on the LT5 it is rare to find a mechanic familiar enough to know it will be done the right way.



Me neither....but then again I did not know diddly squat about the LT5 a couple years ago (some say I still do not know diddly squat)

Your welcome. And the good thing about it is I believe it's a lifetime cert.. And of course you will able to buy, recharge, and remove any refrigerant on any vehicle. And once you have the equipment you could always take an online course and have yourself certified in recharging and removing the refrigerant from your home condensing unit, too. With all the money you'll save maybe you could do a 600hp rebuild .

[Jagdpanzer]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

(yep...with Headers attached)

Is there any special trick to doing that?
and what headers are you using?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

Is there any special trick to doing that?
and what headers are you using?

Yep.....there is a trick or two
The LT5 has to be tilted to the rear considerably and the LT5 has to be prevented from rolling from side to side.
Leave the Fuel Rails, Plenum, and Bell Housing OFF untill after the LT5 is installed in the ZR1.

SW Offroad Headers. As you know it is difficult to install headers with LT5 in the ZR1. With engine out I was able to install 14 of the 16 header bolts with locks (on each Header) in just a few minutes.

1. You definitely need a load leveler (to UNLEVEL or tilt the LT5 to the rear).
2. You CANNOT use the standard lift eyes for the LT5 because as you load UNLEVEL (Tilt engine to the rear) the engine rotates if you lift LT5 on diagonals.
3. You have to lift with nylon straps around Flywheel (rear) and around Harmonic Balancer (front). Actually around more stuff on front.
4. You have to remove the A/C Temperature sensor cover (passenger side firewall) and Wiper Motor (Drivers side firewall).
5. You DO NOT have to remove the hood and the ZR1 can sit on the level.

A/C Temp Sensor........................Wiper Motor.............Do NOT use standard Lift Eyes installing LT5 with Headers



Installing Headers
Installing Engine In ZR1
Lifting The LT5

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by vilant

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Not sure what the rules are in Japan but here in the U.S. this is all you need to do it legally. There's other Youtube videos and online courses to learn more, along with your FSM. Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

Thanks for the info and something to consider. Some things are best left to experts too, but only if you can find the right shop/person to trust.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Cliff,
Vacuum for an hour, then shut gauge manifold valves, turn off vacuum pump and monitor vacuum in system for evidence of any leaks. If none, you're set to charge with the amount of R-12 listed in the FSM. When you connect the can, make sure that you have the can upright and then loosen the fill hose at the manifold to purge the air, then retighten it. The can has to be upright to ensure that you get vapor, not liquid. Charge to the low(suction) side with can inverted until you cannot get any more Freon to flow into the system, then return can to upright position, start engine, leave doors open, switch climate control to auto and set to lowest temp setting. If you don't have enough pressure in the system for the A/c compressor to kick on, disconnect the pressure cycling switch and jump the two wires to energize the clutch. Add remaining Freon to the low side with can in upright position. You don't want any liquid Freon hitting the compressor, as that will damage it. Remember to shut the low side valve when changing cans and also re-purge the fill line. It doesn't take very much air/moisture in the system to seriously degrade performance.

The FSM lays it out very nicely. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

Jep

Ok.....hang on VetteVet

I edited this post in accordance with the information provided by VetteVet in next post VetteVet How To Evacuate and Re-Charge A/C System on C4 ZR1 just to make sure I understand.

I have a vacuum pump with an R12 fittings (actually two fittings) and a set of gauges (red and blue) with R12 adapters. I also have a new Accumulator/Drier (not installed yet as I assume I do not want to expose that to air). Have a few cans of R12 and a couple cans of R12 plus oil.

Vacuum the A/C System
1. The A/C connector on the passenger side with black cap (just inside of shock) is High Side.
2. The A/C connector on the Accumulator/Drier is the Low Side.
3. Connect gauges to the Vacuum Pump (yellow line center of Manifold).
4. Connect Low Side (Blue Line) to Accumulator/Drier connection.
5. Connect High Side (Red Line) to High Side connection just inside passenger wheel well (lower line on Evaporator Housing).
6. Open both High Side and Low Side Manifold Valves and turn on Vacuum Pump for 60 minutes.
7. Shut Manifold Valves (then shut OFF Vacuum Pump) and make sure Vacuum does not leak down indicating a System Leak.
8. If NO LEAKS, Install New Accumulator/Drier and repeat this process.

Charge the A/C System
1. With both Manifold Valves closed, hook up a can of R12 to the yellow middle hose (see Note #1 below).
2. Turn the can valve fully counterclockwise to open the valve.
3. With the can upright, crack the fitting on the yellow hose where it attaches to the gauge manifold to purge the air out of the hose, then retighten it.
4. You can now invert the can and crack the blue Low Side valve and charge until the pressure equalizes between the can and system (no more flow is felt or heard). Never open the Red High Side valve during the Freon Charging process.
5. Now start your car and set the climate control for Max cooling with blower on high. Ensure that the compressor clutch is engaged at this point (see Note #2 below). You can now charge the remainder of the first can with can in an upright position. Always charge with can upright when compressor is running.
6. Once the first can is in, (you'll know it's all in when you can shake the can and not feel any liquid sloshing in it) you can shut the low side valve and swap to the second can.
7. Remember to purge the yellow line again prior to charging.
8. Continue this until you have added the correct amount of Freon, per the FSM. Once the sytem is fully charged, shut off the compressor and allow High Side and Low Side pressures to equalize before disconnecting the gauge manifold from the system.
9. Once the manifold is disconnected, cap the high and low side fittings, reconnect the pressure cycling switch and you're done.

2 Stage Vacuum Pump..................................................Manifold and Gauges


Adapter Connections R134a to R12.................................R12 Can Connector and Gauge


Notes:
1. Prior to connecting the valve to the freon can, unscrew the valve stem fully(you will see the needle in the valve retract up into the body). Then screw the valve onto the can. Now turn the valve fully clockwise to puncture the can.
2. If the compressor clutch is not engaged, you will have to pull the connector on the pressure cycling valve in the low side line and jumper it. The compressor clutch should now engage.
3. The better you vacuum the system, the better it will perform. You won't hurt the vacuum pump if you want to let it run for 5 hours.
4. Always purge the air from the charging(yellow) line when you connect a can of Freon.
5. When the compressor is running, always charge to the low(blue) side with can upright.
6. NEVER, EVER open the high side valve when the compressor is running. That flimsy Freon can will not contain the pressure(can you say SHRAPNEL!!!). I've never done it and don't want to try.
7. If you follow these Notes, no harm will be done.
Thank you VetteVet (Jep) for the "How To" technical information including the Notes and thank you 4-cam for Accumulator/Drier replacement suggestion.

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Cliff,

Remove caps on drier and install it just prior to vacuuming the system. The hose on the left side(blue) is low side. The hose on the right side(red) is high side. If you look at the evaporator housing, the line going into the bottom is the high pressure line. Follow that one back and you will find the high side fitting. The one on the accumulator/drier is the low side fitting. Vacuum the system with both valves open. Charge the system by opening the low side valve only. This is especially important as the pressure developed when the compressor is running will rupture the can of freon. NEVER, EVER open the high side valve with the compressor running.

If you don't have one, you'll need to pick up a freon can valve from your local auto parts store.

Hook up the yellow hose to the middle connection on the gauge manifold and to the vacuum pump. Vacuum the system and then shut manifold valves first, then shut off pump. Let the sytem sit long enough to ensure that vacuum is not dropping. If it is, you have to find and fix the leak(s). If not, then diconnect the hose from the pump and hook up the can valve to the yellow hose. Prior to connecting the valve to the freon can, unscrew the valve stem fully(you will see the needle in the valve retract up into the body). Then screw the valve onto the can. Now turn the valve fully clockwise to puncture the can, then turn fully counterclockwise to open the valve. With the can upright, crack the fitting on the yellow hose where it attaches to the gauge manifold to purge the air out of the hose, then retighten it. You can now invert the can and crack the blue low side valve and charge until the pressure equalizes between the can and system(no more flow is felt or heard). Now start your car and set the climate control for Max cooling with blower on high. Ensure that the compressor clutch is engaged at this point. If not, you will have to pull the connector on the pressure cycling valve in the low side line and jumper it. The compressor clutch should now engage and you can charge the remainder of the first can with it in an upright position. Always charge with can upright when compressor is running. Once the first can is in, (you'll know it's all in when you can shake the can and not feel any liquid sloshing in it) you can shut the low side valve and swap to the second can. Remember to purge the yellow line again prior to charging. Continue this until you have added the correct amount of Freon, per the FSM. Once the sytem is fully charged, shut off the compressor and allow high and low side pressures to equalize before disconnecting the gauge manifold from the system. Once the manifold is disconnected, cap the high and low side fittings, reconnect the pressure cycling switch and you're done.

Jep

Originally Posted by VetteVet

No problem, Cliff. Glad to be of assistance.

Golden Rules:

1) The better you vacuum the system, the better it will perform. You won't hurt the vacuum pump if you want to let it run for 5 hours.
2) Always purge the air from the charging(yellow) line when you connect a can of Freon.
3) When the compressor is running, always charge to the low(blue) side with can upright.
4) NEVER, EVER open the high side valve when the compressor is running. That flimsy Freon can will not contain the pressure(can you say SHRAPNEL!!!). I've never done it and don't want to try.

If you follow these rules, no harm will be done.

Jep

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Ok.....hang on VetteVet

I have a vacuum pump with an R12 fittings (actually two fittings one looks a bit larger) and a set of gauges (red and blue) with R12 adapters. I also have a new Drier (not installed yet as I assume I do not want to expose that to air).
1. Have a few cans of R12 and a couple cans of R12 plus oil. The A/C connector on the passenger side with black cap (just inside of shock) must be low side?
2. Where is the High Side A/C connector (is it on the Drier?) and do I have to connect gauges to both? I connect Vacuum Pump to low side connector or to center connector on gauge while gauge is connected to Low Side as well as High Side?
3. Do I Vacuum the Low Side as well as the High Side?
4. When do I install the New Drier?

More questions to follow if you do not mind.

Cliff,

Remove caps on drier and install it just prior to vacuuming the system. The hose on the left side(blue) is low side. The hose on the right side(red) is high side. If you look at the evaporator housing, the line going into the bottom is the high pressure line. Follow that one back and you will find the high side fitting. The one on the accumulator/drier is the low side fitting. Vacuum the system with both valves open. Charge the system by opening the low side valve only. This is especially important as the pressure developed when the compressor is running will rupture the can of freon. NEVER, EVER open the high side valve with the compressor running.

If you don't have one, you'll need to pick up a freon can valve from your local auto parts store.

Hook up the yellow hose to the middle connection on the gauge manifold and to the vacuum pump. Vacuum the system and then shut manifold valves first, then shut off pump. Let the sytem sit long enough to ensure that vacuum is not dropping. If it is, you have to find and fix the leak(s). If not, then diconnect the hose from the pump and hook up the can valve to the yellow hose. Prior to connecting the valve to the freon can, unscrew the valve stem fully(you will see the needle in the valve retract up into the body). Then screw the valve onto the can. Now turn the valve fully clockwise to puncture the can, then turn fully counterclockwise to open the valve. With the can upright, crack the fitting on the yellow hose where it attaches to the gauge manifold to purge the air out of the hose, then retighten it. You can now invert the can and crack the blue low side valve and charge until the pressure equalizes between the can and system(no more flow is felt or heard). Now start your car and set the climate control for Max cooling with blower on high. Ensure that the compressor clutch is engaged at this point. If not, you will have to pull the connector on the pressure cycling valve in the low side line and jumper it. The compressor clutch should now engage and you can charge the remainder of the first can with it in an upright position. Always charge with can upright when compressor is running. Once the first can is in, (you'll know it's all in when you can shake the can and not feel any liquid sloshing in it) you can shut the low side valve and swap to the second can. Remember to purge the yellow line again prior to charging. Continue this until you have added the correct amount of Freon, per the FSM. Once the sytem is fully charged, shut off the compressor and allow high and low side pressures to equalize before disconnecting the gauge manifold from the system. Once the manifold is disconnected, cap the high and low side fittings, reconnect the pressure cycling switch and you're done.


Jep