Drain plug torque - Page 2 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Paul Workman · 03-15-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

General Bolt Torque and use of Sealants TIPS
Bolt Torque Chart
Sealant and Thread locker TIPS

Always use Stage 8 Exhaust Header Bolts with locks (Headers Only). Do not have to torque the Header Bolts too much as the locks will assure the bolts do not loosen (torqued header bolts into aluminum which area gets very hot makes removal of bolts at any time difficult. Use a bit of antiseize on Header Bolts with the Stage 8 Locks). Also use a bit of antiseize on all spark plugs.

Header Bolt Kit

Only works with Headers however as the individual locks use the header pipes as a stop. You do not need a Header Bolt in EVERY threaded hole. On my installation of SW Headers, removed the motor mount insulation each side as the insulation on top of mount was touching the headers.

On Cam Covers when SS Bolts are used I now use no loctite and no Antisieze using the Aluminum Stat-O-Seal washers. The Stat-O-Seal Aluminum washers with molded Buna-N inner seals are much more reliable than the more common steel stat-o-seals. The Stat-O-Seal Aluminum Washers act as a bolt sealing and locking mechanism. I use no Loctite or Antiseize on the Plenum SS bolts as the Plenum may be removed from time to time.

If the rubber portion fails to make contact all around the port, the aluminum will act as a crush washer, providing a reliable metal to metal seal. Use them to seal screws, bolts or plumbing fittings. The Buna-N seal is resistant to petroleum fuels and oils. Pegasus Auto Racing

There are several opinions on this but I have always used a thin coat of Permatex on water pump, oil pan and oil filter housing gaskets (both sides of gasket). I always use a thin coat of Permatex on the oil pan drain plug and differential drain plug also. This not only helps seal the plugs but also acts as a thread locker (A little less bolt torque with a good sealant) .

The best LT5 Metric Tool set is the Flex Head Ratchet Set.
The 8mm works great for the Battery Terminals.

As always, Cliff... you have a talent and are an asset to the group!

P.

Paul Workman · 03-15-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Okay, so what is the collective thinking on the header bolts and using blue loc- tite? Not needed?

I was going to use the blue on as many as I could get to go in, except for the center(?) locations where the factory used studs that go into the oil passage. On those I was planning on using Loc-tite thread sealer at the end and blue up near the head of the bolt.

Tom,

I used the blue LT - on the header bolts that I got from ACE H/W. I used them inconjunction with a new gasket from Jerry.

For insurance, I smeared a film of red high-temp RTV on both sides of the gasket - overkill on a new one, perhaps? AnywayZ, no leaky after a couple years and counting.

P.

A26B · 03-15-2012

Loctite 242, 243 & 262 is only rated to 300F. Heat is used as an aid to dissassembly. Vibration is the cause of fastener loosening and only occurs under running conditions. I haven't checked the actual, operating temperature of the cyl head at the exhaust port, but I would expect temperatures in excess of 300F.

Considering the difficulty of accessing header bolts and the small tools used, I would not recommend the use of Loctite on header/manifold bolts. It could make disassembly problematic.

tomtom72 · 03-15-2012

Thank you Gentlemen, Cliff, Paul and Jerry.

Paul, I use some form of permatex on all my gaskets via buttering so I'm hearing Ya with that one!

Cliff, what can I say? You are complete right down to the crossed "T-ees" and "dotted I's"! I'll go run down the links and do some reading. Thanks amigo.

Jerry, I never considered the temp limits of any of the loc-tite products. My bad.

You're obviously right about the temps at the exhaust ports I would dare say. Sooo, I guess I'll be looking into thwarting the mechanical vibration that will loosen the header bolts with a mechanical solution. Thanks for the facts on that stuff! Thank You Jerry.

Tom

AustinJohn · 07-22-2012

Two questions. First, following up a separate discussion with Jerry, have any of you seen an aluminum oil drain plug (Jerry says he has not) and second, what size is the oil drain plug?

Thanks!

John

VetteMed · 07-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by AustinJohn

Two questions. First, following up a separate discussion with Jerry, have any of you seen an aluminum oil drain plug (Jerry says he has not) and second, what size is the oil drain plug?

Thanks!

John

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

AustinJohn · 07-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteMed

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

Thanks, Andrew. I'm getting ready to do my first oil change after driving the car back from California and have my oil, filter and seal washer from Jerry so I wanted to be prepared if the plug was some strange size that I wouldn't otherwise have in my tool chest.

John

VetteMed · 07-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by AustinJohn

Thanks, Andrew. I'm getting ready to do my first oil change after driving the car back from California and have my oil, filter and seal washer from Jerry so I wanted to be prepared if the plug was some strange size that I wouldn't otherwise have in my tool chest.

John

Did you mean to ask what size the hex head is, on the drain plug? The 5/8-18 is the thread size/pitch.

I think the stock plug uses a 13 or 14mm socket. Nothing exotic.

WVZR-1 · 07-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteMed

I think it's 5/8 - 18. I can't say I've seen one in aluminum, but the ZF6 drain/fill plugs are indeed aluminum.

Andrew

the 5/8-18 is correct for the thread & pitch, 9/16 for the box-wrench and I don't believe a ZF fill or drain plug is aluminum. Mine are "magnetic"! Those are in an NOS "Blue tag" but I believe I've checked those in the car also!

VetteMed · 07-22-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

the 5/8-18 is correct for the thread & pitch, 9/16 for the box-wrench and I don't believe a ZF fill or drain plug is aluminum. Mine are "magnetic"!

You're right. The trans case is aluminum, the plugs are steel. Thanks for the correction.

03-15-2012	#13
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia,OK Posts: 3,376	Re: Drain plug torque Loctite 242, 243 & 262 is only rated to 300F. Heat is used as an aid to dissassembly. Vibration is the cause of fastener loosening and only occurs under running conditions. I haven't checked the actual, operating temperature of the cyl head at the exhaust port, but I would expect temperatures in excess of 300F. Considering the difficulty of accessing header bolts and the small tools used, I would not recommend the use of Loctite on header/manifold bolts. It could make disassembly problematic. __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed. Last edited by A26B; 03-15-2012 at 10:40 AM.*

03-15-2012	#14
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Drain plug torque Thank you Gentlemen, Cliff, Paul and Jerry. Paul, I use some form of permatex on all my gaskets via buttering so I'm hearing Ya with that one! Cliff, what can I say? You are complete right down to the crossed "T-ees" and "dotted I's"! I'll go run down the links and do some reading. Thanks amigo. Jerry, I never considered the temp limits of any of the loc-tite products. My bad. You're obviously right about the temps at the exhaust ports I would dare say. Sooo, I guess I'll be looking into thwarting the mechanical vibration that will loosen the header bolts with a mechanical solution. Thanks for the facts on that stuff! Thank You Jerry. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

07-22-2012	#15
AustinJohn Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 54	Re: Drain plug torque Two questions. First, following up a separate discussion with Jerry, have any of you seen an aluminum oil drain plug (Jerry says he has not) and second, what size is the oil drain plug? Thanks! John __________________ [SIZE=1] AustinJohn in Austin, Texas '90 Black/Gray ZR-1 #1723[/SIZE] [SIZE=1] Ported intake, Haibeck Chip, CORSA exhaust, 4.10 rear end, Hurst shifter, drilled/slotted rotors, stainless brake lines, 32mm sway bar, 170º thermostat '94 Red/Gray Coupe[/SIZE] [SIZE=1] Stock '85 Black/Black Coupe[/SIZE] [SIZE=1] Anything but stock (Lingenfelter 383 and every Lingenfelter mod available in '88 including 3:54 rear end, big brakes, Centerforce clutch, MSD electronics and Borla exhaust.) True "barn find" restored/upgraded by me beginning in 2010.[/SIZE]