PS 222: oil pressure switch - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Paul Workman · 11-15-2010

I spent over a year getting ready to "go play" at a recent Corvette Challenge race, only to have the cabin fill with smoke on the first run

(a couple weeks ago).

According to the gurus, the (low) oil pressure switch - the one that is on the bottom side of the oil filter housing - has a propensity for leaking. And, it is very close to the #2 header pipe, I might add (hence the smoke!) At first I noticed an occasional whiff smell of burning oil. Then Marc Haibeck told me the car used about 3/4 quart of oil during the tuning process. This was followed by me then noticing the side of the car and passenger window covered with "freckles" of dust - which I dismissed as "musta got something sprayed on me while driving on the highway somewhere??" But, at WOT on the first pass, it blew big time!

Marc and I looked for the leak while at the track, but could not see anything for sure. After I removed the side wheel panel and put a light in there was I able to see the bottom of the pressure switch had been oozing oil and everything below it was oily. After removing the right-side motor mount nut and jacking the motor on it's side (a couple inches), I could clearly see the little bastard!

But, here's my point: Don't bother tying to get at the SOB directly. Take the 10-15 minutes it will require to remove the air cleaner, the belt and tensioner**, the oil cooling lines, and the 5 bolts holding the oil filter housing in place. You don't have to lift the filter housing out of the car, but you can now easily rotate it to expose the sensor. (I bought that special socket for removing such sensors, but a pair of Channel Locks would easily get to it now.) Put some sealant on the threads (I used Teflon tape) and turn it in to just snug enough to seal - "practically, just a little more than hand tight", according to Marc H. (The body of the sensor is pot metal and the threaded tip is only about 3/8" in diameter. If it snaps off, you'll have another interesting chore ahead of ya

)

Back together now, and all is well...No more "freckles"

Now, I think I need to move my rev limiter up a couple hundred rpm. With the "FBI" style of porting and mods (and the extra 130 hp to go with it), it is going to take some getting used to!

P.

**PS: If you've never removed the belt tensioner before, you might want to scratch or paint a line across the joint between the tensioner and the engine so you can align it properly on reassembly. Otherwise, it is possible to have it turned too far (clockwise) upon tightening and you'll not be able to get the belt on...trust me.

-=Jeff=- · 11-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Great information.....as always you describe issues in perfect emotional and technical detail

You can see the oil pressure switch below oil filter near bottom on oil filter housing.

In Solutions under the Heading ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....8872&post88872

Is that it on the bottom left of the picture below where the oil cooler lines go?

Paul Workman · 11-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Great information.....as always you describe issues in perfect emotional and technical detail

You can see the oil pressure switch below oil filter near bottom on oil filter housing. It is on the bottom left of the picture below where the oil cooler lines are located.

In Solutions under the Heading ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....8872&post88872

Actually, the SOB in question is hidden behind and to the side of the Oil Temp sender (bottom in the photo). The top sensor is the pressure sensor for the gauge, the one in question is the low pressure switch which turns on an IDIOT light on the dash, and I thought I read somewhere that if the low pressure switch is activated that the ECM shuts off fuel??? I dunno for sure 'bout the latter, how some ever.

I'll try to get my download to work and send a pic later today

P.

sammy · 11-15-2010

is the sensor on the oilfilter housing.

Jagdpanzer · 11-15-2010

Sorry guys, still not clear to me.
How about circling it to remove my confusion?

Paul Workman · 11-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I think the oil pressure switch is A and the oil temperature sensor is B

I am guessing (you already know that) the oil pressure switch is threaded into the block and not the oil filter housing?

A = correct; the pressure switch. However, you can't really see any more than just the lip of the connector housing in this photo. A picture taken from the side (right side of the engine) would be helpful (and if nobody has posted one by later today, I'll take a pic of mine as installed).

P.

Jagdpanzer · 11-15-2010

Here is a better view of it

Paul Workman · 11-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by sammy

is the sensor on the oilfilter housing.

Yes, on the right side of the engine, but attached to the oil filter housing. It is hard to see when the wheel panel is in place - tucked way down in there.

P.

bdw18_123 · 11-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Yes, on the right side of the engine, but attached to the oil filter housing. It is hard to see when the wheel panel is in place - tucked way down in there.

P.

Here is a picture of mine after I cleaned it. Added text and arrows for more clarity (and I'm definitely going to be resealing all the sensors!):

ittlfly · 11-15-2010

P.

**PS: If you've never removed the belt tensioner before, you might want to scratch or paint a line across the joint between the tensioner and the engine so you can align it properly on reassembly. Otherwise, it is possible to have it turned too far (clockwise) upon tightening and you'll not be able to get the belt on...trust me.

Thanks Paul.......I wonder if that was my problem when I R&R'ed the tensioner and belt last year. I didn't mark the old tensioner as to its orientation to the block. In putting on the new one I could see that it could be installed wrong....even though it had a '' mounting tab'' on the back of it. I emailed Marc but he didn't think it would be possible as he never had a problem. The problem is that I"m a lot stupider than Marc and I had a hell of a time getting the belt over the last pully. I wrote it off as a ''tight belt'' . I hope I haven't screwed it up as it has been on the car that way for about a year now.

11-15-2010	#1
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,466	PS 222: oil pressure switch I spent over a year getting ready to "go play" at a recent Corvette Challenge race, only to have the cabin fill with smoke on the first run (a couple weeks ago). According to the gurus, the (low) oil pressure switch - the one that is on the bottom side of the oil filter housing - has a propensity for leaking. And, it is very close to the #2 header pipe, I might add (hence the smoke!) At first I noticed an occasional whiff smell of burning oil. Then Marc Haibeck told me the car used about 3/4 quart of oil during the tuning process. This was followed by me then noticing the side of the car and passenger window covered with "freckles" of dust - which I dismissed as "musta got something sprayed on me while driving on the highway somewhere??" But, at WOT on the first pass, it blew big time! Marc and I looked for the leak while at the track, but could not see anything for sure. After I removed the side wheel panel and put a light in there was I able to see the bottom of the pressure switch had been oozing oil and everything below it was oily. After removing the right-side motor mount nut and jacking the motor on it's side (a couple inches), I could clearly see the little bastard! But, here's my point: Don't bother tying to get at the SOB directly. Take the 10-15 minutes it will require to remove the air cleaner, the belt and tensioner, the oil cooling lines, and the 5 bolts holding the oil filter housing in place. You don't have to lift the filter housing out of the car, but you can now easily rotate it to expose the sensor. (I bought that special socket for removing such sensors, but a pair of Channel Locks would easily get to it now.) Put some sealant on the threads (I used Teflon tape) and turn it in to just snug enough to seal - "practically, just a little more than hand tight", according to Marc H. (The body of the sensor is pot metal and the threaded tip is only about 3/8" in diameter. If it snaps off, you'll have another interesting chore ahead of ya) Back together now, and all is well...No more "freckles" Now, I think I need to move my rev limiter up a couple hundred rpm. With the "FBI" style of porting and mods (and the extra 130 hp to go with it), it is going to take some getting used to! P. PS: If you've never removed the belt tensioner before, you might want to scratch or paint a line across the joint between the tensioner and the engine so you can align it properly on reassembly. Otherwise, it is possible to have it turned too far (clockwise) upon tightening and you'll not be able to get the belt on...trust me. Last edited by Paul Workman; 11-15-2010 at 06:18 AM.

11-15-2010	#4
sammy Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lone Pine, CA Posts: 580	Re: PS 222: oil pressure switch is the sensor on the oilfilter housing.

11-15-2010	#5
Jagdpanzer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,646	Re: PS 222: oil pressure switch Sorry guys, still not clear to me. How about circling it to remove my confusion?

11-15-2010	#7
Jagdpanzer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 2,646	Re: PS 222: oil pressure switch Here is a better view of it

11-15-2010	#10
ittlfly Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Redding Calif Posts: 223	Re: PS 222: oil pressure switch P. **PS: If you've never removed the belt tensioner before, you might want to scratch or paint a line across the joint between the tensioner and the engine so you can align it properly on reassembly. Otherwise, it is possible to have it turned too far (clockwise) upon tightening and you'll not be able to get the belt on...trust me. Thanks Paul.......I wonder if that was my problem when I R&R'ed the tensioner and belt last year. I didn't mark the old tensioner as to its orientation to the block. In putting on the new one I could see that it could be installed wrong....even though it had a '' mounting tab'' on the back of it. I emailed Marc but he didn't think it would be possible as he never had a problem. The problem is that I"m a lot stupider than Marc and I had a hell of a time getting the belt over the last pully. I wrote it off as a ''tight belt'' . I hope I haven't screwed it up as it has been on the car that way for about a year now.