New Guy New ZR1 Owner Few problems Need Assistance

[TFENT]

Hey all :)

So I was lurking around on here last couple of days as I was hoping on becoming a new ZR1 owner. Long story short found a 1990 Black on Black ZR1 sitting in a garage with 26K on the odometer. Owner had to liquidate it quickly and I made him an offer he refused. Few days later (today) he called an accepted the offer. Drove it home and parked it till daylight to see what I really bought.

Few observations and issues that need immediate attention. I have searched all over and have not found any solutions to these particular issues specifically. Thought maybe some of you could assist me with correcting these "issues". Not listed in any particular order:

Both headlights do not want to stay fully open

Prev owner states radio and A/C run together blows a fuse

I can't figure out how to get car in reverse gear. Saw him do it but was embarrassed to call and ask him if there was a reverse lock out.

The Low tire pressure light and the LTPWS light came on while driving home.

Other then that car is in very good shape. needs to be cleaned as i think it was stored in the garage and not driven in approx 3 years. It is going to the shop for a complete once over first thing next week but I want to drive it this weekend a little.

Any advice? assistance?

Thanks in advance.


Tom

[Jeffvette]

Both headlights do not want to stay fully open

There are three little bushings on the inside of the motor that breakdown as they age. You need to replace them with either ball bearings, or plastic spacer bushings.

Prev owner states radio and A/C run together blows a fuse

There is a shared line S214 that joins the head unit and the AC controller together behind the stereo. You need to get a service manual and start checking things out, or you need to see a pro in your area if you are not comfortable with electrical repairs.

I can't figure out how to get car in reverse gear. Saw him do it but was embarrassed to call and ask him if there was a reverse lock out.

There is a lift ring collar on the shifter. Lift up and it pulls a rod up. If the rod does not slid up, there is a small 3mm set screw in the collar that you tighten down to have it grab the rod.

The Low tire pressure light and the LTPWS light came on while driving home.

Do check the tire pressure. Then go down to the nearest tire shop and remove the tire pressure sensors and throw them in a box.



Welcome to the insane asylum. Enjoy the experience.

[jonszr1]

you may have a bad sensor in one of the tires to light the ltpws.did you ck your tire pressure .the headlights could be bad nylon gears .can be got from mid america. they sell a rebuild kit. if you didnt get the factory service manuals with the car you need to get them .they are as thick as a bible . cant help on the radio airconditoning deal . welcome to the asilum . you will love this car . ps when cking the oil level do mit after the car sits overnight :cheers:

[TFENT]

WOW! Awesome guys!!

Where do I get the Headlight rebuild kit from? I am also installing HID's in the car.

If I chuck the TPS sensors will the light remain on or do I install new ones or???

Electrical: Will send to a stereo shop ASAP.

Rev: LOL you should have seen me trying to get it in reverse tonight. I looked like such an idiot that didn't deserve to be behind the wheel of a ZR1.

Where do I get the ZR1 bibles from?

BTW wait till you see a set of MovIt CER's installed on the car in a few months once they are made. Sneak peak...

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/MovIt%20Brakes/corvc6z06g27.jpg

[Jeffvette]

Where do I get the Headlight rebuild kit from? I am also installing HID's in the car.

All the major catalog companies will be more than happy to rape you for parts. You can get some nylon bushings from home depot.

Here is a write up from a ZR-1 owner

http://home.comcast.net/~zrjuan/headlight.html


If I chuck the TPS sensors will the light remain on or do I install new ones or???

No, the light will go out if all 4 are removed.

Electrical: Will send to a stereo shop ASAP. I would not use a stereo shop. Find a competent mechanic in Corvettes or at the minimum a car electrical certified shop.

Where do I get the ZR1 bibles from?

www.helminc.com or ebay. There are three books, but two main ones.

BTW wait till you see a set of MovIt CER's installed on the car in a few months once they are made. Sneak peak...

Bank!

[TFENT]

Bank!

On the brake system I am gonna cheat a little I own the USA/Canada distributorship of MovIt. The owner of MovIt in Germany also has a ZR1 in the toy box. He turned me on to this jewel.

[Jeffvette]

I'll be talking to you.

[TFENT]

I'll be talking to you.

Anytime my friend open 24/7 for brake talk/car talk/truck talk lol u get it. . :)

[WB9MCW]

Congrats TFENT on the nice low mile 90 score and welcome to the Zoo!

You may want to join this group too >>> http://www.blackcorvettes.com

[TFENT]

Congrats TFENT on the nice low mile 90 score and welcome to the Zoo!

You may want to join this group too >>> http://www.blackcorvettes.com

All signed up just waiting for access. :P thanks !!

[tomtom72]

:hello: Welcome TFNET to the BOB! You sir, have excellant taste in fine motor cars...:handshak:......the black ones are faster...they tell me:mrgreen:.

On that reverse thing, oh yea I know about that, but I'll go one better....parking brake lever took me a while to get also! The transport driver got a kick outta me that day! He was laughing up a storm. Oh, on the Helm FSM's....I was just there & they are out of stock on the 90 set.

Good luck with, and enjoy your christmass present!

:cheers:
Tom

[TFENT]

Update.

So today started out with a bath to see how the paint looked. I would say it is a solid 9.5 out of 10 for 18 years old.

Next stop was to the good old CA smog shop. Car passed with flying colors!

Then to AAA to register the car and change titles. Also added to the policy. Insured it as a classic with an agreed payout of $35K and full coverage for get this. $161 per year. NICE!

Next stop was Discount Tire. Read below. In addition to the below info. I have the Chromed Sawblade wheels on my car. I am reading these are the rare ones?? I am correct? I am going to take these off to make room for the 18's that will be needed to the new brake system. So any advice on these rims would help.

Then Stereo Shop for a look over of electrical system. StreetNoyz in San Diego is the best in the business. Made an appointment for high fidelity make-over, new tint, alarm system, HID install ect.

Then last stop of the day I think as I am here now typing this on the laptop. Is a place call True-Line. They are the wrench experts I trust here locally. They do all of my clients MovIt Brake upgrades for me and numerious other things like suspension systems and general wrenching. I brought the ZR1 here for an alignment and so they can go over the whole car to see if it needs any fluids, bolts tightened, or anything that needs imidiate attention.

Problems from last night addressed:

TPS was working surprisingly. The tires had between 15-21 psi in them all around. So we balanced and air them up. So far not too bad. Still a tiny vibration but I will try the Hunter Load Balance machine in a few weeks. Should fix that. Low Press light is now off but the TPS system light is on.

Radio: SHOT! makes no sound at all. Thinking of just installing and Eclipse GPS NAV system in it. Maybe send out the factory deck to get fixed for future use.


New items discovered:

The glass top is whacked in one spot. The mount in the crossover of the roof is off by like an inch. So that will have to come apart so I can see if the mount can be re-aligned.

The rear window window defroster wire on the glass itself has become unsoldered in several places. Anyone ever heard of this wire being resolderable?

Rear window creaks loudly from the roof mount when entering uneven surfaces. Actually this thing is a regular rattle box. Seems there are sounds coming from everywhere.

There is a sound coming from under the car when I turn the Ign off. Almost sounds like a rod knocking. I am guessing that it is in the clutch system.

The tranny whins pretty loudly. Specially in 1st gear. But then again I am without any radio so I am being hyper-sensitive.

Lastly on thing I have notcied is at an idle the oil pressure bounces all over the place. From below 0-up, I am assuming this is a known issue and is in the sender or pigtail to the sender.

[Z Factor]

Hey all :)





Hello Tom, and welcome to the forum. :handshak:

As you can see, most of the list has been covered by helpful forum members and can be do it yourself repairs. Normally I don't recommend going to dealers, but there is a certified(at least there was a few years ago) ZR-1/LT5 mechanic working in the San Diego area if you are interested. Just PM me if you need the info.

:cheers:

[TFENT]

Hello Tom, and welcome to the forum. :handshak:

As you can see, most of the list has been covered by helpful forum members and can be do it yourself repairs. Normally I don't recommend going to dealers, but there is a certified(at least there was a few years ago) ZR-1/LT5 mechanic working in the San Diego area if you are interested. Just PM me if you need the info.

:cheers:

Thank you PM sent.

Well last update for the night. We found a rather large oil leak under the motor at the cross member. :(

Gonna order some of Amsoil's slippery stuff to put in the motor and tranny.

[tccrab]

Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Beast!!

The '90's are the best looking as well as the fastest.
:mrgreen:

Update.

TPS was working surprisingly. The tires had between 15-21 psi in them all around. So we balanced and air them up. So far not too bad. Still a tiny vibration but I will try the Hunter Load Balance machine in a few weeks. Should fix that. Low Press light is now off but the TPS system light is on.
Remove the wheel sensors. The light will go out.
A couple of people a year experience a wheel sensor failure at high speed. It could be fatal. Take 'em out and put them away for the next guy.


Radio: SHOT! makes no sound at all. Thinking of just installing and Eclipse GPS NAV system in it. Maybe send out the factory deck to get fixed for future use.
A radio in a ZR1 is kind of an oxymoron. Why listen to Willey Nelson or Abba when there's a world class symphony playing the most beautiful music known to man under the hood?
The "Blows" radio is a common failure item. You might have to send the speakers off too, the amps in them are another common failure item. Send 'em all to Dr. Don's:
http://www.doctordons.com/
Then put them in a box and save them for the next guy.


New items discovered:

The glass top is whacked in one spot. The mount in the crossover of the roof is off by like an inch. So that will have to come apart so I can see if the mount can be re-aligned.
There's some play in the mounts, but an inch? *shakes head*
I'll bet the glass top of from an earlier C4.


The rear window window defroster wire on the glass itself has become unsoldered in several places. Anyone ever heard of this wire being resolderable?
The rear hatch is common to all C4's.
It will probably be cheaper and easier to just replace it with a good used one that's in better shape.


Rear window creaks loudly from the roof mount when entering uneven surfaces. Actually this thing is a regular rattle box. Seems there are sounds coming from everywhere.
Tighten the 4 bolts holding the targa top in place. If the top isn't secured, the car will flex, and squeaks come from everywhere.


There is a sound coming from under the car when I turn the Ign off. Almost sounds like a rod knocking. I am guessing that it is in the clutch system.
The tranny whins pretty loudly. Specially in 1st gear. But then again I am without any radio so I am being hyper-sensitive.
This "Rod Knocking" sound is a common feature of the Dual Mass Flywheel. Have a fellow ZR1'er listen to the sound, if it is the dual mass flywheel, get used to it.
The whining you hear is common to the "Black Tag" ZF6.
There's a long drawn out scientific explanation involving the angle of the gears, phases of the moon, and pimples on a hyenas' butt, but I won't bore you with the details. It whines in first gear.
It sounds great. :mrgreen:


Lastly on thing I have noticed is at an idle the oil pressure bounces all over the place. From below 0-up, I am assuming this is a known issue and is in the sender or pigtail to the sender.Another common item, it's probably the pressure sending unit under the oil filter.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_issues.htm#4


And again, welcome to the Brotherhood!!

TomC
"Crabs"

[TFENT]

I am sure this will not be the last time I thank all of you for the assistance. I really appriciate all the help.


I will be removing the radio this coming weekend and having the Eclipse NAV system installed. Radio and supporting hardware will be sent to the DR. Stereo shop stated the only way to get the front speaker system out of the door was to remove the window regulators.

Wheel sensors will be removed ASAP, then boxed and stored.

The car is super fun to drive. I will be ordering a chip too this week. Now if I can just figure out what wheels and tires to run. Thinking 18's all around with 10"a in front with 295's and 12's in back with 335's.

Just need to figure out the oil leak now under the car near the engine cross-over. We were going to use dye this week and blacklight it.

The roof piece is wierd. I will post a picture of it in the AM when the sun arises again.

[carter200]

Just need to figure out the oil leak now under the car near the engine cross-over. We were going to use dye this week and blacklight it.


Usually the leak you are talking about is from loose oil pan bolts. See if they are loose before trying dye's.

To set the record straight the Black Z's are the fast ones and the 95's look way better:dancing

Good luck with your Z.:cheers:

[Jason 91]

TFENT, welcome to the Brotherhood! The support here is always great and I've learned so much from these guys.

:handshak:

Here's an example;

Quote:
If I chuck the TPS sensors will the light remain on or do I install new ones or???
No, the light will go out if all 4 are removed.

I did not know this until reading this post. My driver's side rear is the bad one and I'm just going to have them removed.

Jason

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Rev
Where do I get the ZR1 bibles from?



Welcome to the family.

Have you considered this in the ZR-1 Net Store if you don't need the hard copy of manuals:

LT5 Technical Documentation

$69.99 http://www.zr1.net/ZR1netstore/contents/media/savetobasket.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:sfAddPop(wm.url('pconfirm.html',topFrame.lmd['pconfirm']));add_P226())http://www.zr1.net/ZR1netstore/contents/media/favourite.gif (http://javascript<b></b>:add_P226(1)) ShippingShipping USA (+$6.00) Shipping International (+$12.00)



LT5 Technical Documentation on DVD
The DVD of the LT5 Technical documentation includes the following manuals:
1. 1990 Service Repair Manual
2. 1990 Service Repair Manual Electrical Supplement
3. 1990 - 1993 Engine supplement
4. 1990 - 1994 CCM Diagnostics Repair Manual
5. 1990 - 1995 Engine Overhaul Mechanical Manual
6. 1990 - 1995 Parts & Illustrations Manual
All 6 manuals are compiled onto one DVD and indexed, searchable by text, as well as part #, contains almost 6,000 pages.

$69.99 + shipping ($6.00 in the US)

[TFENT]

Welcome to the family.

Have you considered this in the ZR-1 Net Store if you don't need the hard copy of manuals:

LT5 Technical Documentation

$69.99 http://www.zr1.net/ZR1netstore/contents/media/savetobasket.JPG (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:sfAddPop%28wm.url%28%27pconfirm.html%27,topFr ame.lmd%5B%27pconfirm%27%5D%29%29;add_P226%28%29)h ttp://www.zr1.net/ZR1netstore/contents/media/favourite.gif (http://javascript%3Cb%3E%3C/b%3E:add_P226%281%29) ShippingShipping USA (+$6.00) Shipping International (+$12.00)



LT5 Technical Documentation on DVD
The DVD of the LT5 Technical documentation includes the following manuals:
1. 1990 Service Repair Manual
2. 1990 Service Repair Manual Electrical Supplement
3. 1990 - 1993 Engine supplement
4. 1990 - 1994 CCM Diagnostics Repair Manual
5. 1990 - 1995 Engine Overhaul Mechanical Manual
6. 1990 - 1995 Parts & Illustrations Manual
All 6 manuals are compiled onto one DVD and indexed, searchable by text, as well as part #, contains almost 6,000 pages.

$69.99 + shipping ($6.00 in the US)

Gonna buy it right now :) Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Hey how do you find out what number your vette was made?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Gonna buy it right now :) Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Hey how do you find out what number your vette was made?

You're more than welcome. The last 4 numbers on your VIN are your production number.

[TFENT]

You're more than welcome. The last 4 numbers on your VIN are your production number.

Then I have Production #0775 :-D

Anyone know about the sawblade ZR1 wheels and their rarity?? These are what my ZR1 has and i want to sell them and get 18's. They are chromed as well with deep treaded Yokohama's on them The AVS Sports.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/5007-vette.jpg

[Z51JEFF]

The speakers are not in the doors,they are in the sill panels down by your foot.This place thats going to do the audio work is tops?The CDM box for the stereo needs to be sent out as well.You've come to the right place for info as well as parts go.The injectors will need to be replaced.What you need to do is find somebody in your area that can work on the car.Welcome to the madness and enjoy the ride,aint nothin like it:thumbsup:

[TFENT]

Interesting. I was there for a few minutes and he didn't really have time to give the car a once over. The car will be there for a week next week.

Z Factor asked me to PM him cuz he knew of a LT5 expert here in town. So I am awaiting his response. Why do you think the injectors need replacing??

The tires are not the originals. They are new and only a few years old. I thought they hardened up cuz the car was buzzing like crazy today but after the balance job the car smoothed right out. One needed a few ounces and I had them check the pressure and balance before they didn't any new mods to the wheels. This to establish a starting point if any additional diagnostics were necessary. All the tires were between 15-21 lbs and the weights were all off by .5-2.0 ounces on each side of the wheels.

Can't wait to meet you my friend we have lots to discuss:)

[Z51JEFF]

Interesting. I was there for a few minutes and he didn't really have time to give the car a once over. The car will be there for a week next week.

Z Factor asked me to PM him cuz he knew of a LT5 expert here in town. So I am awaiting his response. Why do you think the injectors need replacing??

The tires are not the originals. They are new and only a few years old. I thought they hardened up cuz the car was buzzing like crazy today but after the balance job the car smoothed right out. One needed a few ounces and I had them check the pressure and balance before they didn't any new mods to the wheels. This to establish a starting point if any additional diagnostics were necessary. All the tires were between 15-21 lbs and the weights were all off by .5-2.0 ounces on each side of the wheels.

Can't wait to meet you my friend we have lots to discuss:)
They go out in all the 90-92s so if its got the original injectors they will need to be replaced.Those wheels are from a 91-92.Your cars a 90?

[TFENT]

They go out in all the 90-92s so if its got the original injectors they will need to be replaced.Those wheels are from a 91-92.Your cars a 90?

Whats a good replacement injector?

Yeap 1990, thats what was on the car. I stole it so I can't complain. I dont see these wheels very often especially in the 17x11.

[Z51JEFF]

The cam chains make some racket when the car sits for a short time,its normal.Some have found that with a Bosch filter and Amsoil gets rid of some of the racket.Ive got the Bosch filter,cant notice much of a change.

[Z51JEFF]

The top injectors are the RCs at about $1400? a set but replaced mine a few months ago with a set of Accels for $600.The Accels seem to be the most popular injector.

[TFENT]

The cam chains make some racket when the car sits for a short time,its normal.Some have found that with a Bosch filter and Amsoil gets rid of some of the racket.Ive got the Bosch filter,cant notice much of a change.

Already ordered the Amsoil tonight. Ordered new fuel and oil filters too think they were WIX brand Amsoil sells.

[TFENT]

The top injectors are the RCs at about $1400? a set but replaced mine a few months ago with a set of Accels for $600.The Accels seem to be the most popular injector.

You recall the part number?

[Z51JEFF]

You recall the part number?

Off hand no but its the most popular injector so the number will pop up.If you need parts Jeffvette got what you might need.While you have the plenum off replace the plug wires and coils.Check out Marc Haibeck for the chip.

[TFENT]

Off hand no but its the most popular injector so the number will pop up.If you need parts Jeffvette got what you might need.While you have the plenum off replace the plug wires and coils.Check out Marc Haibeck for the chip.

what are some signs the injectors are going/gone bad?

[Z51JEFF]

what are some signs the injectors are going/gone bad?

Car running on 7 cylinders,poor idle,car dies every once in awhile.This is what mine did.I had planned on replacing them over the winter but they couldnt wait and one died so I did the job in July.My car had maybe 8500 miles when they went out.Jerrys got the gaskets you will need for the injector install.

[TFENT]

Car running on 7 cylinders,poor idle,car dies every once in awhile.This is what mine did.I had planned on replacing them over the winter but they couldnt wait and one died so I did the job in July.My car had maybe 8500 miles when they went out.Jerrys got the gaskets you will need for the injector install.

So far the car is really strong, pulls really hard from 4K up. The engine has not miss-behaved at all. Good idle, except for a second after you let the clutch in it high idles, but I read thats a programming thing. I will call Marc H. first thing on Mon morning.

The main plan is to do the plug upgrade pretty quickly. Do the chip and see how that works. The 1-4 thing is driven me crazy, so I just keep hammering the throttle from light to light. lol Again chip will take care of that too.

[WB9MCW]

The 1-4 thing = CAGS

[Paul Workman]

Gonna order some of Amsoil's slippery stuff to put in the motor and tranny.

Amsoil AMO 10-40 is recommended by guru Mark Haibeck - did a nice bit of research and wrote an article on it. (Consider joining the Net Registry. You'll have access to the newsletter (containing Marc's article, among many others) and parts, etc, etc.))

As for transmissions, one of the gurus on the ZF6s is Bill Boudreau -
Bill Boudreau at (602) 319-6575.
For an excellent read see link...
http://www.zfdoc.com/faq.htm

The ZF6 is not like other manual transmissions. They require a bit of TLC or there can be trouble (...ask me how I know!) Bill's recommendation is the Castrol synthetic, Castrol TWS 10W60 oil every 15k miles. The oil is available at your local BMW dealer; takes a bit under 3 liters - I'd do that right away.

Welcome to the 'hood'!!

P.

[HIZNHRZ]

Congrats on your purchase and welcome.

Here is a link for determining if your current injectors are going bad. Even if you think your car is running well I would still recommend performing the test. It's very simple. I replaced mine with Accels and I'm very please.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Measuring%20Fuel%20Injector%20Resistance%20with%20 the%20Plenum%20in%20Place.pdf

Look over the zr1specialist.com web site. If you don't know the name Marc Haibeck now you will soon. I would also recommend talking with Marc if you are serious about a chip.

When you replace your radio, be very careful with the bezel. They are no longer available and it is very difficult to find a replacement. Doctor Don is the place to go for radio issues.

Until you get your owners manual, you might want to check out:
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_tech_tips.htm

Enjoy...

[TFENT]

Thought I should post a pic I took yesterday. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m16/tf-ent/ZR1/P1011218.jpg

[tomtom72]

Hey Mister that's a real cool car!:mrgreen:

[TFENT]

Hey Mister that's a real cool car!:mrgreen:

Thank you. Plan of attack today is fixing the headlights and oil leaks. Yesterday the Marc H chip was installed.

Parts ordered for next week include the Hella H4 6054 conversion lenses and 2 sets of HID's in 8K. I really like the HID mod and want to see how it looks in this beast. :-D

Update:

Headlights fixed with wooden pieces. They consumed most of the morning as one assembly was easy to disassemble and the other more difficult. The drivers side came apart like all the guides showed. But the Pass. side did not. The motor had to be removed to get the gear out. Then when we put it back together we spun the motor 180 degrees by mistake and one light went up while the other went into hiding. So we were able to turn the motor while the assembly was installed and that cured the issue. One funny note and I dont not know if its just me or this car, but the headlights do not turn and rise together. They are out of sync. They start differently and end differently.

No time to check for the leaks will do it Friday. :)

Noticed the car has developed a skip in the lower RPM range. I am thinking its the plugs and/or injectors. Oh well.

[WB9MCW]

NICE PIC -- LOOKS GREAT --MAYBE THE MISS WILL SMOOTH OUT AS YOU DRIVE MORE~~~OR IF NOT WELL IT WILL BE THE NEXT THING TO FIGURE OUT.

my buddy just got his Z and we made up a nice page on links for him you may want to know about too~

http://zr1netregistry.com/forum/showpost.php?p=50466&postcount=3

[tomtom72]

Merry Christmas guys!

Hummmmm, a skip that is new? That's how my OEM injectors first telegraphed that they were retiring. Check the plugs and ohm out the wires, in pairs with their respective coils...just to be sure it's not an ignition issue..

On this skip. If it is a fact that your injectors are OEM, and the skip starts to get worse it may indeed be yours are retiring also. Usually the alcohol gets the coils & shorts them. It shows up as a miss, and depending upon just how many injector coils start to short, that's how bad the miss seems to be. Also, if the miss gets worse as the motor comes up to closed loop temp....it's a good bet that the injectors are n/g. You may even smell the lean condition at the tail pipes. The plugs will look too clean also. A scan will usually show something even in the early stages of coil failure.

A plenum pull may be in your future. Oh, sorry to be so long on this post. Now on the plenum pull. You know that a lot of "stuff" lives under there. Jeff's site, PNWZR1.com has the skinny. Also a great write up is at CorvetteActionCenter.com. Look it over and decide what to do once you determine that the skip = bad injectors. It's the old saw about "while we're here"....or, " as long as we have it apart, we might as well do this & that, etc..." The one good thing about doing a plenum pull for injectors is that you get to actually see what's under there and how it works. That is a great teaching tool for us Z owners. Plenums 101, most of us took that course & it is not as tough as it looks! If ya want to do it yourself, just post up and the boys will walk ya thru it, they did for me and I learned some stuff about an LT5.:mrgreen:

:cheers:
Tom

[XfireZ51]

When you say "skip", under what conditions? Part throttle,
idle, WOT? How many miles on car?

[TFENT]

When you say "skip", under what conditions? Part throttle,
idle, WOT? How many miles on car?

Part throttle, light load.

26K was in storage for more then 3 years. I burned the old fuel out and just installed a Marc H. chip. We are replacing plugs and filters this weekend.

[tccrab]

I've always liked the simple, easy to understand and perform diagnosis techniques.
Get the car good and warmed up. Drive it around the block a few times, making sure to "Blow the Carbon Out" really good.
:mrgreen: (my favorite thing to do)
Park it in the garage and leave it idling.
Open the hood and pull a plug wire one at a time and slowly lift it about an inch.
If the coil is working properly you will hear a snapping and crackling sound and the engine will begin to run rough.
If you don't hear a snapping sound, the coil or wire is suspect.
If you hear a snapping sound and the engine "tone" doesn't change, a spark plug or fuel injector is suspect.
Do this with each hole.
You will be surprised how much this will tell you about the condition of your motor.
Vacuum leaks, here's another easy and remarkably simple test.
Get the car warm and while idling, spray the suspected vacuum leak areas with propane from a unlit portable propane torch. You know the kind the plumber uses to solder pipes under the sink, etc.
Don't go crazy, propane after all is flamable. (duh).
If you have a moderate vacuum leak, the idle will rise a few hundred RPMs when the engine sucks in the propane and uses it as additional fuel.

Regards,

TomC
"Crabs"

[WB9MCW]

I've always liked the simple, easy to understand and perform diagnosis techniques.

Indeed ~~ tried and true!! :thumbsup:

[XfireZ51]

Part throttle, light load.

26K was in storage for more then 3 years. I burned the old fuel out and just installed a Marc H. chip. We are replacing plugs and filters this weekend.

IOW, high engine vacuum. I'd start by looking for vacuum leak, FWIW.

[TFENT]

Update 2-27-09

OK thought an update was in order as I am just getting the Z back today with some more issues and some fixed. LOL gotta love GM cars.

Fixed:

The whole stereo system needed to be fixed all the amps were bad. FIXED

The Headlights were acting retarded so I found a guy in LA that makes machined aluminum gears. Why the metal gears?? Cuz the additional weight of the ballast for the HID bulbs ruined the nylon ones after a few days of just testing them. FIXED

Alarm added as well

New Wheels and Tires installed today :)

New HID's with Hella Headlight capsules and HID foglights installed. They look Bitchin ;)

NEW PROBLEMS:

While at the stereo shop 2 things occurred.

1. starter froze up on day and the car had to be rolled to break it free, no problems since. TG
2. car backfired this week while they were working on it. Now there is a SES light and car runs rougher then usual and no secondaries.

Plus one addition item. While on the way home from the tire shop at a light alternator gauge started to jump and dash lights and LED's flickered on and off. At freeway speeds all is well. Just at an idle this is now occurring plus the idle gets worse. Plus i can feel and hear it missing. I think the Intake is going to have to come off for an inspection of all those nice plastic vacuum line huh??

Also the far left rear (driverside) parking light keeps burning out


So I did some searching but you guys are so god that there is an information overload here. I started to read this one thread and thought ok this is the problem but it has all the symptoms but not that one. So I search again and nope that's not it I checked that. Man searching is alot of work and there is so much to go through. So I throw myself at the mercy of the ZR1 gods and beg for your advice here. Help a newbie out please!!

[tccrab]

Update 2-27-09

NEW PROBLEMS:

While at the stereo shop 2 things occurred.

1. starter froze up on day and the car had to be rolled to break it free, no problems since. TG

Don't have any experience with this problem with my Z. Used to happen with my MR2 Supercharged. I kept a 2 foot 1/2 extension bar behind the seat and when the solenoid wouldn't retract the starter gear I'd give it a good whack with the bar and the problem would usually go away.
Ultimately, replacing the starter cured the problem for good


2. car backfired this week while they were working on it. Now there is a SES light and car runs rougher then usual and no secondaries.
MAP sensor hose was blown off with the backfire. Behind the plenum on the drivers side is the PCV connector, check the small piping just to it's left, there are two connectors, one upper and one lower. It's always the lower one that seems to blow off. Just push the hose back onto the connector and you'll be good to go.

Plus one addition item. While on the way home from the tire shop at a light alternator gauge started to jump and dash lights and LED's flickered on and off. At freeway speeds all is well. Just at an idle this is now occurring plus the idle gets worse. Plus i can feel and hear it missing. I think the Intake is going to have to come off for an inspection of all those nice plastic vacuum line huh??

Also the far left rear (driverside) parking light keeps burning out
Pull the battery leads and clean them with a wire brush. Check all the grounds that you can find, I'll have to go looking for the list. It's around here somewhere. The lights flickering is likely battery leads or ground issues. A common thing in 'Vettes.

So I did some searching but you guys are so god that there is an information overload here. I started to read this one thread and thought ok this is the problem but it has all the symptoms but not that one. So I search again and nope that's not it I checked that. Man searching is alot of work and there is so much to go through. So I throw myself at the mercy of the ZR1 gods and beg for your advice here. Help a newbie out please!!Good luck!

TomC
"Crabs"

[TFENT]

Thank you sir!

I did see the 2 PCV hoses off and one small vac line disconnected at the rear of the intake. Is there another farther down the back of the intake?

[LT5-Lee]

Update 2-27-09.....

1. starter froze up on day and the car had to be rolled to break it free, no problems since. TG

2. car backfired this week while they were working on it. Now there is a SES light and car runs rougher then usual and no secondaries.....

Hi Tom, :hello:
The starter is prone to get bitchy if you wash the engine. The drain hole is too small and gets plugged up under the plenum so just sponge bathe her. I had to R&R the starter to clean the contacts on my starter solenoid, but no problem since.

IF a Z backfires, it is almost guaranteed to blow off one end of the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor on the back side of the plenum. My stock one does it once in a great while, no biggie.

For all the electrical problems, the manuals are a life saver, the wiring is not as straight forward as old cars were. Grounds are everything on these cars as most all sensors and solenoids are energized by grounds supplied by the ECM instead of a good old straight shot of 12 v.

After reading the manuals many times over while working out small bugs, the terrifying thought of a 17 year old "rotten little Johnny type" splicing into wires to install an after market alarm system in a vette sends shivers up my spine.

I have one piece of advice for you, you might take it a little slower before making too many big changes, especially on electrical. Take a few long road trips before tearing into everything for all the latest mods. But then again.... it is easier said then done. :dancing

[TFENT]

Update 2-28-09

Pulled a code 33 out of the car. Grabbed a flashlight and guess what?? map sensor line to the back of the Plenum was blown off. I couldnt see it last night in the dark. Plugged it back in and wa-la code gone. YEA!!!

Gonna take it back to the stereo shop this morning so they can go back and check all the grounds and connections for any loose grounds.

[XfireZ51]

Update 2-28-09

Pulled a code 33 out of the car. Grabbed a flashlight and guess what?? map sensor line to the back of the Plenum was blown off. I couldnt see it last night in the dark. Plugged it back in and wa-la code gone. YEA!!!

Gonna take it back to the stereo shop this morning so they can go back and check all the grounds and connections for any loose grounds.

Think about putting a tie wrap on the hose.

[TFENT]

Think about putting a tie wrap on the hose.

LOL funny you said that done.....


Now I have an SIR Code 42 anyone?? Getting ready to ready the DVD with all the manuals on them.

[tomtom72]

About that tie wrap idea, please forgive my butting in here as I know I'm not fluent in LT5.

Isn't that kind of a lesser of evils that the MAP hose blows off. I had thought I remembered reading somewhere over at the NetReg site that there is a cause and effect relationship between not starting an LT5 correctly and the back fire that blows off the MAP hose????

I know I read somewhere that there is a difference, due to our at the time cutting edge distributorless ignition system, on how to properly start your LT5 vs cars that still used distributors when our Z's were new? I'm not even gonna insinuate that I know exactly why it happens, but the instructions I remember were to "hold over" the key and don't release till the motor is actually running. I'm almost positive that the most common reason for the MAP hose blowing off is a backfire due to improper starting technique??? I dunn no but we used to call it "short tapping" the key. Like back in the days of points we measured you prowess at doing a tune up by reaching in and hitting the key.....he who could hit the key for the lesser time was the winner, ya know less cranking time. The LT5 needs a long, relatively speaking, cranking time to "orient" the DIS box....or something like that...:redface:

Sorry to stick my nose in here.:redface:

:cheers:
Tom

[tomtom72]

Now I have an SIR Code 42 anyone?? Getting ready to ready the DVD with all the manuals on them.

This is from the 90 FSM (Helm Book)

"DTC 42 for SIR system: Indicator Lamp Circuit (open circuit)"

"NOTE: Ig ignition is turned "on" when Cluster Fuse is blown or removed, this code will set. Also, an intermittant open in the "INFLREST" indicator circuit or a disconnected DIC (Driver's Information Center) connector will set this code."

"The power for the "INFLREST" indicator lamp is provided by the 5A cluster fuse. Under the appropriate conditions the DERM grounds the circuit, illuminating the bulb."

"The DERM periodically checks the resistance of the "INFLREST" indicator lamp circuit. If the resistance is above a specified value, this code will set"

(JMHO as I'm not real great with these cars & electronics). Only thing that comes to mind instantly is:

did anyone check the "Cluster fuse"?

Audio work would be having to r&r the DIC.

Blown lamp for the SIR in the DIC????? I'm not sure about this one.:redface:

Alarm installation misshap???? Not throwing rocks at your guys, but aftermarket alarms & C4's don't seem to get on well, historically. :redface:

There's more in the FSM. I don't know if you have a 90, which as I understand it has a different system than the rest of the yrs.

:cheers:
Tom

[TFENT]

Yeap, I have a 1990 and yes the alarm has been quite a challenge for the stereo shop to say the least.

I will tell you I printed out the Code 42 SIR troubleshooting tree and took it to them. They got the alarm system to work about 99% so far just a little glitch and it is as follows:

With the key in the ON position, alarm off of course, and u switch the key to the off position the windows move up a 1/4 inch. If you keep repeating the ON to OFF movement the window clicks up and up and up. LOL quite funny.

In regards to the installation of the HID's well that was a whole can of worms. The lower resistance in the system with the low beams on did not allow the operation of the foglights. They did something to get it to work now with some relays and now it all functions with one minor exception. With the HID's on low all works 100%, but when you punch up the HID foglights the high beam indicator alone comes on. Not the high beams themselves just the indicator. Small price to pay as the HID's work AWESOME. It is totally worth the hassle.

In the end this being about the 7th time I drove the car since I bought it and OMG this thing is fun!! Too much fun, I think I am going to get into trouble driving it. Just turned 26,900 miles on it. Now all I need to do is get the brakes from Germany and get them installed. I will have some pictures of it in the coming weeks when we get it closer to being done. Just have a few more things to do. Spark plugs, Fuel Injectors, wires and we should be good to go. :)

If I haven't said it before guys thank you for all the help.

[LT5-Lee]

About that tie wrap idea, please forgive my butting in here as I know I'm not fluent in LT5.

Isn't that kind of a lesser of evils that the MAP hose blows off.


Better to push the hose back on than replace an over pressurized MAP sensor.:thumbsup:

[LT5-Lee]

Yeap, I have a 1990 and yes the alarm has been quite a challenge for the stereo shop to say the least.

I will tell you I printed out the Code 42 SIR troubleshooting tree and took it to them. They got the alarm system to work about 99% so far just a little glitch and it is as follows:

With the key in the ON position, alarm off of course, and u switch the key to the off position the windows move up a 1/4 inch. If you keep repeating the ON to OFF movement the window clicks up and up and up. LOL quite funny.

In regards to the installation of the HID's well that was a whole can of worms. The lower resistance in the system with the low beams on did not allow the operation of the foglights. They did something to get it to work now with some relays and now it all functions with one minor exception. With the HID's on low all works 100%, but when you punch up the HID foglights the high beam indicator alone comes on. Not the high beams themselves just the indicator. Small price to pay as the HID's work AWESOME. It is totally worth the hassle.

In the end this being about the 7th time I drove the car since I bought it and OMG this thing is fun!! Too much fun, I think I am going to get into trouble driving it. Just turned 26,900 miles on it. Now all I need to do is get the brakes from Germany and get them installed. I will have some pictures of it in the coming weeks when we get it closer to being done. Just have a few more things to do. Spark plugs, Fuel Injectors, wires and we should be good to go. :)

If I haven't said it before guys thank you for all the help.


Yea, the high beams get their ground through the fog lamps or vise versa.... There is a procedure somewhere posted for isolating the two circuits before updating the fog lamps to higher current. Like I said, the manual is a life saver. I have learned there is a reason so many vettes burn up in electrical fires.... mostly because of aftermarket add ons by non vette guys. If you can find someone that knows vettes very well, PAY HIM TWICE the amount of the going rate :cheers: other guys charge just to keep them around! :pray

[TFENT]

Yea, the high beams get their ground through the fog lamps or vise versa.... There is a procedure somewhere posted for isolating the two circuits before updating the fog lamps to higher current. Like I said, the manual is a life saver. I have learned there is a reason so many vettes burn up in electrical fires.... mostly because of aftermarket add ons by non vette guys. If you can find someone that knows vettes very well, PAY HIM TWICE the amount of the going rate :cheers: other guys charge just to keep them around! :pray

I couldn't agree more. Now we just need to figure out how to make the high beam light only work when they are actually on ;)

[XfireZ51]

In my case, the tie wrap is there to put some of the tightness back into the hose fitting lost due 17year old rubber. It would slip off rather easily.

[Jeffvette]

About that tie wrap idea, please forgive my butting in here as I know I'm not fluent in LT5.

Isn't that kind of a lesser of evils that the MAP hose blows off. I had thought I remembered reading somewhere over at the NetReg site that there is a cause and effect relationship between not starting an LT5 correctly and the back fire that blows off the MAP hose????


Tom is correct, the map sensor is the easiest hose to get access to, but with TFENT's car being a 90, he does not have the other hose that goes back under the plenum that will blow off if the map sensor is zip tied.


On to the alarm issue, I have never seen an alarm incorporated into a C4 that has been done properly with out screwing something else up, or having the install just be hacked in there. I despise aftermarket alarms in C4's.

As far as the code 42, they probably tapped into the wire off the column, and caused the issue. Luckily they did not blow the bag.