HELP! Changing the WaterPump

[MikeG]

I've got a 91 that I need to replace the waterpump on. A friend, who has a nice shop, but no ZR-1 experience, looked it up and said it was a 5 hour job and would cost $ 375+. In checking my Chilton, from the step by step, it doesn't look like that bad of a job. But since I can't even see the darn thing and having to lay on my back or bent over the side for 5 hours, which will probably mean 8 or better, the way things go, and then since the garage is unheated and it's in the 20's for the next couple of months, it's not a project that I'm really excited about.

Have on had the ZR-1 for about a year and am still getting used to the Beast! Anyone out there that has changed the pump themselves?

Mik
91 Turquoise Mettalic #135

[ShawnZR-1]

Yep, 5 hours sounds about right. It's not the easiest thing to get to and there are a lot of hidden bolts!

While you're in there, change the hoses if they haven't been changed in the last few years. If they're original, you might wind up cutting them off anyway!

[tomtom72]

Nope, still got my replacement in the box, but if you have those sprung steel clamps vs the "ideal" screw type clamps....go & buy the special remover tool, the up-scale one at that...it has the grasper on the end of a long cable...you'll need it & it will make life a bit less stressful, fighting with the hose clamps, that is if your 91 used the same clamps as my 90.

Not knowing the FSM steps, I haven't looked because I don't relish doing it...it would seem to me that the fans at least would have to go for the job to be even remotely pleasant. I could see r & r'ing the rad too, as it isn't that bad, just to have more room to stick my fat head in there to see what I was doing. Might even have to dis-mount the steering cooler for some room & the tensioner, p/s pump, jez...this seems like fun. I think I'll shut up now.

Oh yea, I hear ya about the unheated garage.....I got no heat & no recepticals in mine & the overhead light stinks. You have my empathy, I hope it goes smooth for ya!
:cheers:
Tom

[cuisinartvette]

you can do it without removing radiator, the hoses gotta go, think I took the air horn off too. If I remember right I didnt get the lower hose completely off the water p[ump til I had broken it loose, it was a pain to get the clamp off.

There are a bunch of bolts that come out, and some that look like theay are supposed to but dont (think those go into the timing chain cover). Get a fe cans of brakleen and spray everything off real good so you can get a closer look at what youre doing. Dont forget the ones right above the balancer, hard to see them. Make sure you keep track of what bolt goes in what hole, I believe some of them are differerent.
Its not too bad, just takes patience. WIll go together much quicker than it came apart.

[UKZR1]

That sounds about right. It was a couple of years back but I remember taking the pump out with the fans etc in place. Think I removed the belt and the air horn and then located and removed the bolts by feel after looking at the replacement for an isea of where they were going to be. Not a nice job due to the lack of space. I removed the spring clamps with pliers but have since bought the proper tool for the job - go get it it makes things sooo much easier. From memory i pulled the pump with the lower hose still attacthed and then removed it when I could get to it.

If its any help, there are some photo's of my LT5 sitting out of the car on my site. You can clearly see the water pump in position.

[petefias]

As I recall there are several different lenght bolts coming out of the WP. Lay the new pump next to the car and transfer the bolts as you remove them from the old into the appropriate hole on the new. Once you removed the old pump transfer the bolts back to the old pump. As you install the new pump once again install the bolts one by one by transferring them from the old pump to the new one.

This will guarantee you use the bolts where they belong. You will be glad you did this "childish game"...

[tomtom72]

Thanks guys, I'm taking notes!:thumbsup:

:cheers:

[Hammer]

I've got a 91 that I need to replace the waterpump on. A friend, who has a nice shop, but no ZR-1 experience, looked it up and said it was a 5 hour job and would cost $ 375+. In checking my Chilton, from the step by step, it doesn't look like that bad of a job. But since I can't even see the darn thing and having to lay on my back or bent over the side for 5 hours, which will probably mean 8 or better, the way things go, and then since the garage is unheated and it's in the 20's for the next couple of months, it's not a project that I'm really excited about.

Have on had the ZR-1 for about a year and am still getting used to the Beast! Anyone out there that has changed the pump themselves?

Mik
91 Turquoise Mettalic #135

Nice to see you over here Mike. Glad these guys can help. I haven't had to do this or I would have posted.

[cuisinartvette]

Wanted to add when reattaching the WP leave the lower hose off. Once its secured you can get the hose on, I just used a regular ol clamp instead of the stock one. Leaving the hose on and tryuing to line up the bolts...good luck. For some reason I remmeber having to remove a bolt/few from the alternator.
Maybe Jeff can fill in the blanks here.

[MikeG]

Gixer, thanks for the post and the link - could you be a bit more specific on where to look on your site for the pic mentioned. Checked your site a bit - looks great and will look more indepth - but not sure where to look to see the motor,
MikeG
91 Turquoise Metallic, # 135

[Jeffvette]

This is the best shot I have right now. I'll grab another tomorrow when I get to the shop.

http://www.pnwzr1.net/Registry%20project%202/27.JPG

[MikeG]

Thanks for all of the replys/info. All the hints/helps are ecactly what I was looking for. Had heard about the different bolt sizes and trying to make certain the right bolt goes back into the right hole (my Chilton book even shows a diagram covering that specific problem - but the idea of taking a bolt from old to new, back to old to new was super! A normal half-witted shade tree wrench turner shouldn't get them mixed up - should he??!!!). Also the info on leaving the lower hose on, don't install the new lower hose until the pump is on - thanks!

With the temp forcasted to have a HIGH of 8 on Thurs. I'm thinking more and more of letting my mechanic, who doesn't have any ZR-1 experience, but is a great Chevy man!, do the job. We've talked of pull the radiator anyway just to pull it and blow the fin area clean, flush with clean water, leak check and finish it off with adding new anti-freeze (it's 2 yrs old and a bit diluted from the trip back from Eureka Springs in Oct. I also have to pull the Pwr Steering Radiator - it's leaking also. All of that should give us some more room.

[Jeffvette]

Alright here we go this is without changing hoses.

Steps:
1) Drain coolant
2) remove accordian duct
3) Remove airhorn
4) Remove serpentine belt
5) remove belt tensioner
6) Remove water pump pulley
7) Remove hoses at coolant outlet pipes and pull coolant hose assembly towards the front of the car.
8) Remove the spring clamp off of the water pump end of the hose
9) Get a crewdriver or awl or anything to start prying the hose end off. Once you have an opening spray some sort of penetrating oil to help get the hose off
10) I use a large pry bar and push down on the hose to get it to slide off. Less damage on your knuckles
11) Spray the crap out of it with brake kleen.
12) Now tackle the bolts there are three different ones.
13) Use your new pump as a bolt guide. As you pull them out place them in the corresponding holes on the new pump.
14) Once the pump is out transfer the bolts from the new one to the old one.
15) Put a small amount of rtv on a few spots on the pump and and put the gasket on the pump.
16) Run a couple of bolts through as guides. Insert all bolts and then tighten down.
17) Re-assemble everything else and fill with fresh coolant.

[MikeG]

John, good to see you over here also. Thanks for the request for buddy list. Am not sure why I posted my initial request for info on the Corvette Action Center first (still doesn't have any responses). These posts are going to help a lot when it comes time to replace the pump, once it come in from IL.
Catch ya later,
Mike
91 Turquoise Metallic, #135

[Jeffvette]

Thanks for all of the replys/info. All the hints/helps are ecactly what I was looking for. Had heard about the different bolt sizes and trying to make certain the right bolt goes back into the right hole (my Chilton book even shows a diagram covering that specific problem - but the idea of taking a bolt from old to new, back to old to new was super! A normal half-witted shade tree wrench turner shouldn't get them mixed up - should he??!!!). Also the info on leaving the lower hose on, don't install the new lower hose until the pump is on - thanks!

Ditch the Chiltons manual. Get a helms. it will be the best money you spend on the ZR-1. The helms tells you were the different bolts go in case you get mixed up.

Check this thread out.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4238

[MikeG]

Jeff, thanks for the pic, steps and advise on Chilton. I know the Chilton is vague, but couldn't afford the Helms at the time - planning on getting one a bit later. Thanks also for the link.

[LGNDLT5]

These posts are going to help a lot when it comes time to replace the pump, once it come in from IL.
Catch ya later,
Mike
91 Turquoise Metallic, #135[/quote]

Hi Mike. Great post s and details of the replacement. The pump is on it's way :thumbsup: check your email I sent a note earlier. Good luck, you will do great, just take your time as Jeff suggests, one step at a time. Thanks John

[UKZR1]

Sorry for the late reply Mike, Ive been away on a cisco course all week.

Here's the link you asked for http://www.corvetteclips.co.uk/Enginereturns.html

athough Jeffvette has posted a much clearer picture

[MikeG]

Thanks for the extra pictures! I wish there was some way to see all of this while the engine is installed! The water pump is due for delivery tomorrow! After spending some time under the car pulling the power steering radiator - leaking - I have decided to take to a friend who has a nice shop, lots of Chevy knowledge, lacks ZR-1 experience - but we're both learning at the same time and is someone I can trust and the shop is close by. I have decided to pull the coolant radiator - for more room to work and to make sure it's clean and will put new collant and stuff to keep me and the engine cool and in top running condition!

[tomtom72]

Mike,

Just a coupla of thoughts. Go over to the netreg site & in the "how to" section look up the screen for the air intake above the front splitter & spoiler. It will keep all the junk out for the future. I used some fiberglass window screen material wrapped around one of those wide mesh plastic screens ya get with a sleeve type a/c unit. It keeps leaves and the small sand out of the fins.

If you really pull the rad out to clean it go get a condensor fin comb and some ph balanced condensor cleaner or just some simple green & a soft paint brush(cheap toss away type). You will need a small pick to get the sand out that the shop air doesn't get. That will take time, the sand removal. I'd get a new T-stat & o-ring too and new hoses(?) while you're in the neighborhood. When I did this to my car it had like 12k on it & it was sand filled & pretty dirty. Sorry I'm spending so much of your doe-ray-me!:o

You may find it easier to get the shroud off if you dis-conn the oil cooler lines, just don't loose the two o-rings at the cooler end of the lines. It don't take much to remove them & ya will have more working room(JMHO). Be patient with the shroud as it's gonna test ya! There is a write up over at the netreg site on this proceedure also. Oh yea, don't forget towash down the a/c condensor real well also as it will be dirty & block air flow to the rad.

Oh yea, be gentle with the t-stat housing as it's NLA (?, I'm pretty sure) When you go to put it back together and back on the frame mting points be gentle. I do my t-stat & flush every two yrs and ya think I would remember. I never do; so I can't give ya chapter & verse. Just look it over & take your time...it will come to ya like a BFO. Oh yea, mm swivel sockets, in 1/4" & 1/2" drives, will be a blessing! Trust me on that!

:cheers:
Tom

[Hammer]

Mike,

If you haven't already, read all the way through this previous post. I think it will help a lot with the disassebly of the radiator and reassembly after you install the water pump.

http://zr1netregistry.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3938&highlight=radiator

Good Luck, patience is a virtue. be sure to post with any problems or situations.

[phrogs]

you can pick up a helms manaul used for about $50 just get the red book for a 90 and it has all the LT5 stuff in it, You do not DO NOT need the LT5 supplement to complete this job.


I have worn out my shop manual so badly that I need a new one....




As far as completing this job my sawp ended up taking longer than I thought becuase I ended up cleaning every oil leak up and changing the coil packs, wires and the vacum lines all out while I was inder there. that was my first time under the plenum I have since rebuilt a LT5 fun stuff.

johnny

[MikeG]

Tom, thanks for the hints and helps! The pump was a "no show" today from fedex - so I wait. The rad is only a couple of years old (Ron Davis), so will check the hoses and such and replace as needed. This should be an interesting experience!:rolleyes:

[MikeG]

John, just finished reading all the posts on the link you sent - I think I'm going to trade the ZR in for a Mustang! -- Just kidding - since it's still so cold and frozen I hav lots of time for this project - sould be able to get finished in time for Bowling Green - I hope!!!!!!

[tomtom72]

Mike, since the rad in your car was switched out for a better one, most of the niggly details about getting the shroud out will proly have been addressed. Your shroud should be a snap to r & r. I'll bet those side 7(?) mm screws are addressed already!=D>

I would be very interested in hearing your impressions of what you think of your rad's fit & install, how do you think it performs, and is it a dedicated manual trans rad, no auto trans cooler built in taking up valuable cooling space???

Also, if you intend to keep the car...I strongly urge you to do the air intake screen thing. Trust me it works in keeping all the junk out.

Oh, my reasoning on the oil cooler lines: the a/c lines are there too so why have all that unmovable stuff to manouver the shroud around. The oil line are a snap to r&r and don't make that bad of a mess....need some rags or let the car sit over night, I got nothing out of mine. Obviously the a/c lines are harder to r&r...unless ya have an a/c machine:wink:

Thanks Mike!:thumbsup:
:cheers:
Tom