Opinions on this ‘91 please.

[B17 Crew]

Went to look at this ‘91 this afternoon, it’s number 360. It’s a one owner car, unmodified with the exceptions of an update to ‘92-‘96 exhaust and Hella headlights. The body is straight, panel fit is very good, I could not find evidence of an accident. Original window sticker and some other documentation come with the car. I was unable to drive it this visit, it was heavily blocked in by other cars in the back of the showroom. I was able to start/rev the car. Was able to talk to the owner of the dealership, he did not try to mislead me and appeared to be a straight shooter as well as knowledgeable about Corvettes.

Link to Z:
http://www.arenamotor.com/1991-Chevrolet-Corvette%20ZR-1-ZR-1-20000-%20Ohio%2043201/6403086

What it needs:

New tires all around.
Headlight motors continue to run for about 3 seconds after turning lights on/off.
Driver’s side bolster motor sounded “weak”.
Professional buff to remove fine scratches in clearcoat
Steering column needs attention. Has play in it (this may be from the driver using it to ingress/egress the car).
Driver side leather bolsters heavily worn.
Grey triangular tabs missing (by power seat controls).


What I noticed:

LT-5 engine cranking takes several seconds longer than my LT-4.
There was a vibration with an audible “bumping sound” at start up that subsided after about 20 seconds. Not sure if vibration was from engine or clutch.
Pre ‘94 type style seats are not as comfortable/supportive as ‘94-‘96 seats (IMHO).
This ‘91 is not as tight/sold in regards to interior fit and finish as my ‘96 LT-4 which has 60K miles on it, the Z has 74K miles.
It has slight delimitation on windshield but did not affect outward vision.
Exhaust tips are not aligned, seem off-angle. Can be seen in rear photos of car.


My main concerns were the vibration/audible “bumping sound” at start up and headlight motors continuing to run which make me question if the car has electrical gremlins. Dealer has it listed for 20k but will take 17k. I look forward to and would appreciate any input on the car. Thank you.


B17Crew
:hello:

[efnfast]

If it's mechanically sound, looks pretty good at 17K. If there are gremlins, FBI crew is not that far away.

[G8nightman]

If you do your own work the headlights is a nonissue about 50 bucks in parts needed to fix.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[Ccmano]

Went to look at this ‘91 this afternoon, it’s number 360. It’s a one owner car, unmodified with the exceptions of an update to ‘92-‘96 exhaust and Hella headlights. The body is straight, panel fit is very good, I could not find evidence of an accident. Original window sticker and some other documentation come with the car. I was unable to drive it this visit, it was heavily blocked in by other cars in the back of the showroom. I was able to start/rev the car. Was able to talk to the owner of the dealership, he did not try to mislead me and appeared to be a straight shooter as well as knowledgeable about Corvettes.

Link to Z:
http://www.arenamotor.com/1991-Chevrolet-Corvette%20ZR-1-ZR-1-20000-%20Ohio%2043201/6403086

What it needs:

New tires all around.
Headlight motors continue to run for about 3 seconds after turning lights on/off.
Driver’s side bolster motor sounded “weak”.
Professional buff to remove fine scratches in clearcoat
Steering column needs attention. Has play in it (this may be from the driver using it to ingress/egress the car).
Driver side leather bolsters heavily worn.
Grey triangular tabs missing (by power seat controls).


What I noticed:

LT-5 engine cranking takes several seconds longer than my LT-4. Normal, they are designed to crank longer
There was a vibration with an audible “bumping sound” at start up that subsided after about 20 seconds. Not sure if vibration was from engine or clutch. A number of possibilities could be some or all. Bad injector, bad dual mass flywheel, coil issue or all of the above. Mostly likely bad injector causing the flywheel it make noise.
Pre ‘94 type style seats are not as comfortable/supportive as ‘94-‘96 seats (IMHO).
This ‘91 is not as tight/sold in regards to interior fit and finish as my ‘96 LT-4 which has 60K miles on it, the Z has 74K miles.yup, they made some progress in 5 years
It has slight delimitation on windshield but did not affect outward vision.Normal, ZR-1 uses a special windshield.
Exhaust tips are not aligned, seem off-angle. Can be seen in rear photos of car. Those are later version mufflers but is fixable.


My main concerns were the vibration/audible “bumping sound” at start up and headlight motors continuing to run which make me question if the car has electrical gremlins. Dealer has it listed for 20k but will take 17k. I look forward to and would appreciate any input on the car. Thank you.


B17Crew
:hello:


Welcome to the addiction...

Answered some of your questions above.

Here a list of things to look at. I'm sure I missed few but here you go. Frankly, to me, $17k is high for a 91 in this condition and miles that potentially needs work.

Known issues for the ZR-1, some related to higher miles some not.
Injectors - 90-92 must be replaced.
Vacuum leaks to the secondary throttle system.
Secondaries operable?
Ingnition coils and wires replaced?
Timing chain noise at start (normal to a some degree on 90's)
Starter, does the car start consistently
Oil leaks especially the pan and oil cooler lines
Fuel pumps, have they ever been replaced?
Is it throwing any engine, abs or body codes (SES light on?,multiple possibilities here)
Are any DIC lights on. (Multiple possibilities here as well)
Is the adjustable shocks system working
Windshield delamination
A/C functionality (compressor is unique to the Z, cooling capacity lower)
Power switch functionality and keys (are there 2)
Transmission syncro's, (first gear is always noisy) shifter alignment can mimick synco problems.
Clutch functionality (they all let in high, was it ever changed)
Egr system on later models
Engine mounts

C4 Issues
Head lights operable
Radiator blocked or simply clogged, electric fans operable
Wheel bearings
Suspension bushings
Condition of all door, top and hatch seals
Glass roof cracking
Instrument cluster functionality especially the tach (tends to read high with age) also note the lighting of the cluster.
DIC button functionality
Steering wheel excessive movement
Radio functionality (especially speaker amps) and antenna
Sport seat functionality (transmission, switches, pumps and bladders)
Door window switches
Door window lifter and internal rattles
Fuel tank bladder collapse (results in small capacity)
Differential noise (whine)

Good luck
H
:cheers:

[B17 Crew]

If it's mechanically sound, looks pretty good at 17K. If there are gremlins, FBI crew is not that far away.

Thank you for mentioning the FBI, I have read about them here on the Registry. I asked the owner of the dealership if he knew of any mechanics in our area that would be able to service the engine if something were to occur beyond my skill level. There is only one mechanic in our area he recommends. He is at Buyers Chevrolet, this is where the car has been serviced its entire life by the original owner. The other option is Marc Haibeck, about a 6 hour drive from where I live.

B17Crew
:hello:

[B17 Crew]

If you do your own work the headlights is a nonissue about 50 bucks in parts needed to fix.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

Thank you, I am more inclined to do my own work, the repair sounds as if it would be something I could take care of.

B17Crew
:hello:

[B17 Crew]

Welcome to the addiction...

Answered some of your questions above.

Here a list of things to look at. I'm sure I missed few but here you go. Frankly, to me, $17k is high for a 91 in this condition and miles that potentially needs work.

Known issues for the ZR-1, some related to higher miles some not.
Injectors - 90-92 must be replaced.
Vacuum leaks to the secondary throttle system.
Secondaries operable?
Ingnition coils and wires replaced?
Timing chain noise at start (normal to a some degree on 90's)
Starter, does the car start consistently
Oil leaks especially the pan and oil cooler lines
Fuel pumps, have they ever been replaced?
Is it throwing any engine, abs or body codes (SES light on?,multiple possibilities here)
Are any DIC lights on. (Multiple possibilities here as well)
Is the adjustable shocks system working
Windshield delamination
A/C functionality (compressor is unique to the Z, cooling capacity lower)
Power switch functionality and keys (are there 2)
Transmission syncro's, (first gear is always noisy) shifter alignment can mimick synco problems.
Clutch functionality (they all let in high, was it ever changed)
Egr system on later models
Engine mounts

C4 Issues
Head lights operable
Radiator blocked or simply clogged, electric fans operable
Wheel bearings
Suspension bushings
Condition of all door, top and hatch seals
Glass roof cracking
Instrument cluster functionality especially the tach (tends to read high with age) also note the lighting of the cluster.
DIC button functionality
Steering wheel excessive movement
Radio functionality (especially speaker amps) and antenna
Sport seat functionality (transmission, switches, pumps and bladders)
Door window switches
Door window lifter and internal rattles
Fuel tank bladder collapse (results in small capacity)
Differential noise (whine)

Good luck
H
:cheers:

Wow! Thank you, this is a great checklist. The noise upon start up, I don’t know if it was generated by the timing chain or not. I currently do not have enough experience with the LT-5 to know if what I heard was normal or not. My take is the sound and vibration were not normal operating characteristics of the LT-5.

I figured the dealer purchased the car from the original owner somewhere in the 14k range. Thank you for your direction on pricing as well!

B17Crew
:hello:

[efnfast]

Thank you for mentioning the FBI, I have read about them here on the Registry. I asked the owner of the dealership if he knew of any mechanics in our area that would be able to service the engine if something were to occur beyond my skill level. There is only one mechanic in our area he recommends. He is at Buyers Chevrolet, this is where the car has been serviced its entire life by the original owner. The other option is Marc Haibeck, about a 6 hour drive from where I live.

B17Crew
:hello:
Some of the best help for this car right in the Chicago area.

[Ccmano]

Some of the best help for this car right in the Chicago area.

Agreed... it's your good fortune to be close to Haibeck and the FBI crew. I consider myself blessed to have been part of the Chicago FBI and maintain my honorary status.
H
:cheers:

[Ccmano]

Wow! Thank you, this is a great checklist. The noise upon start up, I don’t know if it was generated by the timing chain or not. I currently do not have enough experience with the LT-5 to know if what I heard was normal or not. My take is the sound and vibration were not normal operating characteristics of the LT-5.

I figured the dealer purchased the car from the original owner somewhere in the 14k range. Thank you for your direction on pricing as well!

B17Crew
:hello:

Chain rattle on startup is a distinct rattle or clatter not a vibration, bumping or rough running. 91's are not generally inclined to chain rattle. Rough running and knocking (similar to rod knock) is almost always injectors causing the flywheel to knock. Hard to say about this one without experiencing it.
H
:cheers:

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Chain rattle on startup is a distinct rattle or clatter not a vibration, bumping or rough running. 91's are not generally inclined to chain rattle. Rough running and knocking (similar to rod knock) is almost always injectors causing the flywheel to knock. Hard to say about this one without experiencing it.
H
:cheers:

100% correct!
:cheers:
Marty

[B17 Crew]

Some of the best help for this car right in the Chicago area.

Would have to agree. From everything I’ve read in this forum over the years, I’m amazed at the level of support and effort ZR-1 owners will go to help one another. This is a very tight-knit community.

B17 Crew
:hello:

[B17 Crew]

Chain rattle on startup is a distinct rattle or clatter not a vibration, bumping or rough running. 91's are not generally inclined to chain rattle. Rough running and knocking (similar to rod knock) is almost always injectors causing the flywheel to knock. Hard to say about this one without experiencing it.
H
:cheers:

Thank you, this was helpful. What I experieced was not a distinct rattle or clatter but vibration with a “bumping sound”. If I have time tomorrow, I can inquire about the injectors. The dealer seemed honest, I think he would chase down the answer to the best of his ability.

B17Crew
:hello:

[Z51JEFF]

My 91 sounds like somebody under the hood shakin 20 cans of spray paint with the racket from the cam chains at cold startup,it’s done that from day one and I got the car with 6000 miles. The rattle and vibration in the car in question sounds like it’s missing. Injectors,coil,plug wire is what I’d look for.

[B17 Crew]

My 91 sounds like somebody under the hood shakin 20 cans of spray paint with the racket from the cam chains at cold startup,it’s done that from day one and I got the car with 6000 miles. The rattle and vibration in the car in question sounds like it’s missing. Injectors,coil,plug wire is what I’d look for.

Thanks for the input! The shaking cans of spray paint is a good description of the sound I experienced. I confirmed it was a cold start by placing my hand on the engine before starting the car.

Played phone tag with the dealership today to inquire about the status of the injectors, we were unable to connect with one another. After doing more research, I am feeling the car is priced too high even though they came down from 20k to 17k. I found ZR-1s in much better condition with lower milage for just a little more money here on the Registry. I work a lot and have a significant amount of call, makes it a challenge to travel to see a car. I prefer to find a car locally that I can easily get to so that I can see it in person.

B17Crew
:hello:

[Z51JEFF]

Thanks for the input! The shaking cans of spray paint is a good description of the sound I experienced. I confirmed it was a cold start by placing my hand on the engine before starting the car.

Played phone tag with the dealership today to inquire about the status of the injectors, we were unable to connect with one another. After doing more research, I am feeling the car is priced too high even though they came down from 20k to 17k. I found ZR-1s in much better condition with lower milage for just a little more money here on the Registry. I work a lot and have a significant amount of call, makes it a challenge to travel to see a car. I prefer to find a car locally that I can easily get to so that I can see it in person.

B17Crew
:hello:
One of the main reasons for all the noise at cold startup is the design of the oil filter,the filter is designed to retain oil and one brand of filter that works the best at this is the Bosch filter and I use only Amsoil,these 2 together seem to quite down the cam chains. The car in question isn’t too common as far as color goes so if the car works out it might be worth looking into if it can be had cheaper,I’d shoot for $15,000 and see what happens. The car over all looks to be in good shape,the finish on the motor looks really good from what I remember from the photos.

[KILLSHOTS]

OP, since you're asking for opinions, mine is that $17K is way too much money for a stock car with that mileage. It looks clean, but there is also some significant wear, such as the seat bolster...worn nearly all the way through the leather. Another thing to consider is that the vintage GS-Cs are very cool, but will need to be replaced pronto if you plan on driving the car. In 2014, I paid $18K for my '90 with 15,500 miles and I wouldn't pay that again. If it was my money, I would buy a car from a registry member that is already sorted and/or modified, because the one you're considering COULD end up bleeding you dry. JMHO. Good luck!

[B17 Crew]

One of the main reasons for all the noise at cold startup is the design of the oil filter,the filter is designed to retain oil and one brand of filter that works the best at this is the Bosch filter and I use only Amsoil,these 2 together seem to quite down the cam chains. The car in question isn’t too common as far as color goes so if the car works out it might be worth looking into if it can be had cheaper,I’d shoot for $15,000 and see what happens. The car over all looks to be in good shape,the finish on the motor looks really good from what I remember from the photos.

Thank you, sir. I have noticed Bosch filters adorning LT-5 engines here on the Registry. Was not aware of Amsoil as a go to to reduce cam chain noise, that is great info. In regards to the color, the photos don’t do it justice, the Dark Red Metallic (DRM) is a really nice color. The price of the car needs to come down. At this point, I am going to watch the car and see if the dealer begins to drop the price significantly. Starting at 20k was way to high, down to 17k is going the right direction.

Another strong point of the car besides the LT-5 is the panel fit/alignment of this particular specimen. The panels are aligned more precisely than my ‘96’s panels. Don’t know if ZR-1s received special attention on the line in regards to panel fit, but this is one of the better aligned C4s I have seen in a while.

B17Crew
:hello:

[B17 Crew]

OP, since you're asking for opinions, mine is that $17K is way too much money for a stock car with that mileage. It looks clean, but there is also some significant wear, such as the seat bolster...worn nearly all the way through the leather. Another thing to consider is that the vintage GS-Cs are very cool, but will need to be replaced pronto if you plan on driving the car. In 2014, I paid $18K for my '90 with 15,500 miles and I wouldn't pay that again. If it was my money, I would buy a car from a registry member that is already sorted and/or modified, because the one you're considering COULD end up bleeding you dry. JMHO. Good luck!

Thank you for your input KILLSHOTS. I agree with you, this car does have the potential to be a money pit; from the bolster to other items such as the loose steering column, I think you are on-point. The 17k selling price did not sit well with me, I later found other ZR-1s with fewer miles and better condition at a better price. They just happen to either be on the left or right coast :frown: I prefer to find a local car, I know LT-1s and LT-4s backwards and forwards, the LT-5 not so much. The car I end up purchasing will replace my LT-4 which I have had for the last 20 years. I am anticipating keeping whatever Z I end up with just as long, so it has to be the RIGHT ZR-1.

B17Crew
:hello:

[WARP TEN]

I would strongly suggest that you get your car up to Marc Haibeck rather than use a local dealer. Or at least give him a call about your symptoms. I was just at Marc's shop for our monthly lunch and he had a car in that had a noise similar to the one you have described that had been diagnosed as rod knock by his local Chevrolet dealer. The dealer then proceeded to rebuild the engine (expensive) and it still didn't run. Well it ran barely like on seven cylinders and still made the noise. As was noted above, injectors are often a culprits on these old cars, and sure enough it turns out whom ever had been working on the car had replaced injectors one at a time, with Marc finding three different brands on the car. Also one was completely dead. They were due to start it up after I left so I don't know the outcome, but I can assure you that Marc and Bob will get it running perfectly (and hopefully they won't have to rebuild the rebuild.) You are really not that far away from Marc's shop in Addison IL--probably five hours-- and having him go through a ZR-1 recently purchased can save untold headaches. It is always worth the money, and it will likely save you a lot of money over time. I did it with my '93 and my '95 and he found lots of little things that I would not have found until it was too late. Saved me lots of hassle and the cars always ran like new. Well, better than new after he did his 510 HP package on the '95.--Bob

[B17 Crew]

I would strongly suggest that you get your car up to Marc Haibeck rather than use a local dealer. Or at least give him a call about your symptoms. I was just at Marc's shop for our monthly lunch and he had a car in that had a noise similar to the one you have described that had been diagnosed as rod knock by his local Chevrolet dealer. The dealer then proceeded to rebuild the engine (expensive) and it still didn't run. Well it ran barely like on seven cylinders and still made the noise. As was noted above, injectors are often a culprits on these old cars, and sure enough it turns out whom ever had been working on the car had replaced injectors one at a time, with Marc finding three different brands on the car. Also one was completely dead. They were due to start it up after I left so I don't know the outcome, but I can assure you that Marc and Bob will get it running perfectly (and hopefully they won't have to rebuild the rebuild.) You are really not that far away from Marc's shop in Addison IL--probably five hours-- and having him go through a ZR-1 recently purchased can save untold headaches. It is always worth the money, and it will likely save you a lot of money over time. I did it with my '93 and my '95 and he found lots of little things that I would not have found until it was too late. Saved me lots of hassle and the cars always ran like new. Well, better than new after he did his 510 HP package on the '95.--Bob

That’s a shame the owner has to go through that, I’m sure they work hard for their money and it sounds as if it’s adding up to be quite a bit of out-of-pocket money.

To compare as best I can, I’ve been trying to locate online videos of LT-5 engine starts to see if I can find one with similar start issues I experienced. This search has helped me in that I found several vids that seem to be good examples of how the LT-5 should sound at start-up. Here is another ‘91 that starts perfectly, this is a considerably smoother start that what I experienced:

Link to vids:
Engine start at 2:39.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwr1dPx1u4c

Engine start at 1:22.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJus4_8aNxc

Once I find the right car, I will send it to Haibeck to have it gone through to address any issues. And the 510 package!... that must be one heck of a nice ZR-1! Thank you for your input.

B17Crew
:hello:

[rush91]

That’s a shame the owner has to go through that, I’m sure they work hard for their money and it sounds as if it’s adding up to be quite a bit of out-of-pocket money.

To compare as best I can, I’ve been trying to locate online videos of LT-5 engine starts to see if I can find one with similar start issues I experienced. This search has helped me in that I found several vids that seem to be good examples of how the LT-5 should sound at start-up. Here is another ‘91 that starts perfectly, this is a considerably smoother start that what I experienced:

Link to vids:
Engine start at 2:39.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwr1dPx1u4c

Engine start at 1:22.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJus4_8aNxc

Once I find the right car, I will send it to Haibeck to have it gone through to address any issues. And the 510 package!... that must be one heck of a nice ZR-1! Thank you for your input.

B17Crew
:hello:That 1st car is the one I bought lol!! And yes, it starts smooth. But over time I do notice chain rattle on start up....it's just a LT5 thing. I have notice after an oil change ( I use Amsoil 10w-40 ) that the rattle smooths itself out. I hope you find the Z your looking for, these cars are a special piece of history

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[B17 Crew]

That 1st car is the one I bought lol!! And yes, it starts smooth. But over time I do notice chain rattle on start up....it's just a LT5 thing. I have notice after an oil change ( I use Amsoil 10w-40 ) that the rattle smooths itself out. I hope you find the Z your looking for, these cars are a special piece of history

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

It’s small world, what a great looking Z you have! I especially like the color, I currently have a Polo Green/Light Beige LT-4. The start I experienced with the ‘91 was accompanied by significant vibration and a bumping sound. I have learned it can be injectors, coil packs in need of attention, and that changing over to Amsoil/Bosch filters may quell the symptoms somewhat. This site’s members have provided excellent advice, thank you!

B17Crew
:hello:

[Leroy1]

Check to make sure it has the tire tools are there: jack is in a baggie clamped to the spare tire; wrench is behind the driver's seat and is held down with wing nuts.

There should be a tire storage bag and tie-downs in the bin under the luggage compartment, on the passenger side. Baggie and straps are same color as interior (saddle in your case). They are for storing a rear tire in the luggage compartment because it won't fit in the spare tire tray.

S. Lee Sikes, '91 dark red/saddle

[Z51JEFF]

Check to make sure it has the tire tools are there: jack is in a baggie clamped to the spare tire; wrench is behind the driver's seat and is held down with wing nuts.

There should be a tire storage bag and tie-downs in the bin under the luggage compartment, on the passenger side. Baggie and straps are same color as interior (saddle in your case). They are for storing a rear tire in the luggage compartment because it won't fit in the spare tire tray.

S. Lee Sikes, '91 dark red/saddle

What exactly is this baggie you describe,my 91 has no baggie for the tire straps.

[TX '90 ZR1]

What exactly is this baggie you describe,my 91 has no baggie for the tire straps.

I'm thinking this is the "baggie" he is talking about.
Mine is a '90. It is stored with the spare and jack in the spare carrier on mine. It might be supposed to be in the inside compartment, but mine was with the spare.
7333

Tire bag is in this bag.
7334

[Z51JEFF]

I'm thinking this is the "baggie" he is talking about.
Mine is a '90. It is stored with the spare and jack in the spare carrier on mine. It might be supposed to be in the inside compartment, but mine was with the spare.
7333

Tire bag is in this bag.
7334

O.K. that makes sence,I started thinking -is this some else I need to look for- and the tire bag does go in the spare tire well.

[lfalzarano]

Concur on mine also


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=90383)

[B17 Crew]

Check to make sure it has the tire tools are there: jack is in a baggie clamped to the spare tire; wrench is behind the driver's seat and is held down with wing nuts.

There should be a tire storage bag and tie-downs in the bin under the luggage compartment, on the passenger side. Baggie and straps are same color as interior (saddle in your case). They are for storing a rear tire in the luggage compartment because it won't fit in the spare tire tray.

S. Lee Sikes, '91 dark red/saddle

Thank you, this is great information, I was not aware of the storage bag. In the past I have seen the tie-downs in photos, but never any images of the bag.

B17Crew
:hello:

p.s. that Dark Red Metallic is a very nice color!

[Vette73]

Wow! Thank you, this is a great checklist. The noise upon start up, I don’t know if it was generated by the timing chain or not. I currently do not have enough experience with the LT-5 to know if what I heard was normal or not. My take is the sound and vibration were not normal operating characteristics of the LT-5.

I figured the dealer purchased the car from the original owner somewhere in the 14k range. Thank you for your direction on pricing as well!

B17Crew
:hello:
B-17 crew, there is a member on this forum, had a red 91 Z modified for sale a while back...Look him up, his name is Randy Ransome I believe.....545 HP,polished engine, a lot of money in mods......I think he wanted 25K minimum..Car looked like it was worth every penny..I think he's close to you ...

[Bob Eyres]

You didn't mention if the sound system was fully functional, many of them aren't. That's something you can beat the dealer up about if it's not.

There are quite a few problems with this car that bring it's value down. Not massive issues that would make you walk away, but even if you bought it for $12K you could have way over $20K in it before it was sorted out.

Unless you have the time, inclination, and skills to rehab a ZR-1, I'd buy a fresher one to start with. As this one does not have a dirt cheap price tag.

BTW, that long crank startup problem, aside from the noise, could be the fuel pumps. I recently replaced mine, and it cured that immediately.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

You didn't mention if the sound system was fully functional, many of them aren't. That's something you can beat the dealer up about if it's not.

There are quite a few problems with this car that bring it's value down. Not massive issues that would make you walk away, but even if you bought it for $12K you could have way over $20K in it before it was sorted out.

Unless you have the time, inclination, and skills to rehab a ZR-1, I'd buy a fresher one to start with. As this one does not have a dirt cheap price tag.

BTW, that long crank startup problem, aside from the noise, could be the fuel pumps. I recently replaced mine, and it cured that immediately.



Very, very good advice!
Steal a 25k car for 20, rather than getting a 12k car and putting 8 into it.
You will be much farther ahead doing it that way!
There are some very good and very well priced cars out there!
Marty

[B17 Crew]

B-17 crew, there is a member on this forum, had a red 91 Z modified for sale a while back...Look him up, his name is Randy Ransome I believe.....545 HP,polished engine, a lot of money in mods......I think he wanted 25K minimum..Car looked like it was worth every penny..I think he's close to you ...

If it’s the car I’m thinking of, it’s a red car with a white stripe and a ZR-1 “splash logo”. From what I remember seeing here on the Registry, it appeared to be a well-sorted car.

As of today, I decided to shift my focus away from the ‘91 at the dealer and will aim for a ‘94. The ‘95s are more than I want to spend, ‘94s are more affordable for me. There is a really nice Polo Green currently for sale in the upper 20s here on the site, but I will have to save a little more to be able to afford a ‘94, there is a big price increase going from a ‘91 to a ‘94 ZR-1. I noticed today that the dealer dropped the price of DRM Z from 20k to 19k.

Thank you for your input!

B17Crew
:hello:

[B17 Crew]

You didn't mention if the sound system was fully functional, many of them aren't. That's something you can beat the dealer up about if it's not.

There are quite a few problems with this car that bring it's value down. Not massive issues that would make you walk away, but even if you bought it for $12K you could have way over $20K in it before it was sorted out.

Unless you have the time, inclination, and skills to rehab a ZR-1, I'd buy a fresher one to start with. As this one does not have a dirt cheap price tag.

BTW, that long crank startup problem, aside from the noise, could be the fuel pumps. I recently replaced mine, and it cured that immediately.

Sage advice, thank you. There are too many questions about this particular car, I’m steering away from it and will focus on moving to a ‘94. Time IS a factor for me, I work a lot and my job necessitates quite a bit of call. Fortunately, I’m able to turn a wrench, I currently perform most of the work on my LT-4, but free-time for me is limited, your suggestion of finding a fresher car to start with is entirely appropriate.

B17Crew
:hello:

[Vette73]

Yes it was the red car with the white stripe ...Don't know if in fact it is still for sale or in your taste...

Lot of car for the money with that one..To me the 91-95 are basically the same car except for the interior..Many will say the later years have Dunn heads and a bit more power....Trust me, if you buy a stock ZR-1 you will mod it so once you get into porting, the years won't make a difference..

[B17 Crew]

Yes it was the red car with the white stripe ...Don't know if in fact it is still for sale or in your taste...

Lot of car for the money with that one..To me the 91-95 are basically the same car except for the interior..Many will say the later years have Dunn heads and a bit more power....Trust me, if you buy a stock ZR-1 you will mod it so once you get into porting, the years won't make a difference..


It’s a nice car, I remember seeing the pics of it. I must admit, I am partial to the later style seats in the Z (‘94-‘95), they provide a little more back/shoulder support for me. I can understand wanting to extract the untapped potential of the Z, I have read about how much potential is there. I saw that Dave McLellan had Haibeck perform some work, 50 hp alone was gained from porting cylinder heads and the top end.

Link: http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/RegistryPublication48a.pdf

I was able to see McLellan’s “Z REX” in the Summer of 2004. I thought his license was great. He had stopped at Bob McDorman’s Chevrolet in a Corvette caravan along with Corvette team members (I think the were on the current Corvette engineering team at the time). The group was receiving a private tour of Mr. McDorman’s collection. I can’t emphasize how gracious Mr. McLellan was, he took time to answer my questions and have a few pictures taken, just an incredible individual.

B17Crew
:hello:

[Paul Workman]

It’s a nice car, I remember seeing the pics of it. I must admit, I am partial to the later style seats in the Z (‘94-‘95), they provide a little more back/shoulder support for me. I can understand wanting to extract the untapped potential of the Z, I have read about how much potential is there. I saw that Dave McLellan had Haibeck perform some work, 50 hp alone was gained from porting cylinder heads and the top end.

Link: http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/RegistryPublication48a.pdf

I was able to see McLellan’s “Z REX” in the Summer of 2004. I thought his license was great. He had stopped at Bob McDorman’s Chevrolet in a Corvette caravan along with Corvette team members (I think the were on the current Corvette engineering team at the time). The group was receiving a private tour of Mr. McDorman’s collection. I can’t emphasize how gracious Mr. McLellan was, he took time to answer my questions and have a few pictures taken, just an incredible individual.

B17Crew
:hello:

We hope you join us soon!

Not knowing what has been don to Dave's ZR-1 prior. But, IIRC, Marc did his "510" upgrade which is essentially porting and headers/exhaust. That would be 105 HP improvement over a stock (405 hp) ZR-1, and 135(!) hp improvement over a stock 90-92 LT5.

My point is, the LT5 was severely under developed upon introduction...obviously. And, to point this out, the 3rd gen LT5 intended for the 1996 MY made 550 hp from that 5.7L block when the plenum was opened up similar to what experimenters had accomplished in the interim. (And, did I mention output improvements were NOT at the cost of drivability???)

The LT5 is truly a remarkable motor, and it just kills owners like us to think of what could be if only GM would take the lead again and develop it as (at least) a 6.2L DOHC. A TT, 6.2 (or dare I say 7.0L?) DOHC in a mid engine (awd?) Corvette would once again be a world beater (as the C4 ZR-1 was at its introduction)!

I can dream, can't I?....

YOU need to join the fun! :cheers:

[B17 Crew]

We hope you join us soon!

Not knowing what has been don to Dave's ZR-1 prior. But, IIRC, Marc did his "510" upgrade which is essentially porting and headers/exhaust. That would be 105 HP improvement over a stock (405 hp) ZR-1, and 135(!) hp improvement over a stock 90-92 LT5.

My point is, the LT5 was severely under developed upon introduction...obviously. And, to point this out, the 3rd gen LT5 intended for the 1996 MY made 550 hp from that 5.7L block when the plenum was opened up similar to what experimenters had accomplished in the interim. (And, did I mention output improvements were NOT at the cost of drivability???)

The LT5 is truly a remarkable motor, and it just kills owners like us to think of what could be if only GM would take the lead again and develop it as (at least) a 6.2L DOHC. A TT, 6.2 (or dare I say 7.0L?) DOHC in a mid engine (awd?) Corvette would once again be a world beater (as the C4 ZR-1 was at its introduction)!

I can dream, can't I?....

YOU need to join the fun! :cheers:

That is great information. I finished reading Heart of the Beast not too long ago and recall that the potential of the LT-5 had not fully been achieved. I’ve wanted a ZR-1 since 1990, I remember seeing my first one parked at a popular Ocean City, MD restaurant back in the summer of 1990. The red Z was a sight to behold. The input and advice from Registry members has been very helpful, my hat is off to all of you, the amount of knowledge here regarding the LT-5 is impressive.

I have decided on the color I will pursue, going to go after a Polo Green/Light Beige combo (it’s what I have now). Because I’m targeting a ‘94 now, I am moving myself up in the amount of cash outlay to the high 20 range. Going to a ‘94, I will need extra time to save for the shift, but I will be in a Polo Z at some point.

B17Crew
:hello: