Starting issue?

[4CamJon]

Yesterday morning after a stop for breakfast, my car wouldn't start. It had power and acted like the safety switch on the clutch was not working. After multiple key cycles and locking and unlocking the doors it still would not start. We were able to get a ride home and then went back to try again. I used the spare set of keys and the car fired right up. Is it possible that I have a bad VATS key? I was also able to start the car with the primary set of keys.
Any help or suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,
Jon

P.S. I haven't tried to start the car since I brought it home yesterday.

[KFoster]

Crank it and drive it around close to home until it is good and hot. Turn it off. See if it cranks back up. If no, let cool and try with same set of keys. If it cranks cold, remove intake and fix starter solenoid. At least that's what I'm doing now.


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[GOLDCYLON]

Yesterday morning after a stop for breakfast, my car wouldn't start. It had power and acted like the safety switch on the clutch was not working. After multiple key cycles and locking and unlocking the doors it still would not start. We were able to get a ride home and then went back to try again. I used the spare set of keys and the car fired right up. Is it possible that I have a bad VATS key? I was also able to start the car with the primary set of keys.
Any help or suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,
Jon

P.S. I haven't tried to start the car since I brought it home yesterday.

Jon that's possible but normally a security light will flash if it is a VATs issue. The primary key resister may indeed be worn. I would take a run around the hood and get the car hot with the second key then shut it off. If it does not start like before it maybe time to apply the clutch bypass mod to avoid being stranded. However it still may indeed be a solenoid issue in the starter.

[Dynomite]

Yesterday morning after a stop for breakfast, my car wouldn't start. It had power and acted like the safety switch on the clutch was not working. After multiple key cycles and locking and unlocking the doors it still would not start. We were able to get a ride home and then went back to try again. I used the spare set of keys and the car fired right up. Is it possible that I have a bad VATS key? I was also able to start the car with the primary set of keys.
Any help or suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks,
Jon

P.S. I haven't tried to start the car since I brought it home yesterday.

The ZR-1 is very easy to start in 2nd gear with a simple hand push start....just turn the key on and have a couple guys give you a hand push :cheers:

[lfalzarano]

Most likely you didn't keep the clutch in all the way before turning the ignition key. The VAT kicked in and disabled the starter. Wait 10-15 before properly starting your Z again. I got burned many times before I read about this is the Forum...


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[Kevin]

when mine did this it was the clutch switch, jumpered that out and it worked ever since

[jcruz]

Most likely you didn't keep the clutch in all the way before turning the ignition key. The VAT kicked in and disabled the starter. Wait 10-15 before properly starting your Z again. I got burned many times before I read about this is the Forum...


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This is useful to know! Once or twice I've had my floor mat scrunch up under the clutch so it wouldn't depress far enough.

Thanks,

John

[Paul Workman]

Here is Marc Haibeck's article (http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/Diagnosing%20Starter%20Probems.pdf)on starting issues, every new Z owner should read!:)

FYI, you can measure the resistance across the "pill" in your ignition key and compare it to the chart (below). From that, and your ignition key, a locksmith will be able to cut you a new key with the proper resistor chip.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x220/6PPC_bucket/tech%20files/vatskeychart.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/6PPC_bucket/media/tech%20files/vatskeychart.jpg.html)

[TealZR1]

Exact same issue happened to me about a month ago - starter would not start from time to time and after it sat for a few hours it started up! Turned out under the plenum an oil gasket went bad sending oil into the starter which is located by the firewall. After to oil dried up it would start but ended up replacing the starter and gasket to fix the problem. Hope that helps...

[XfireZ51]

Speaking of "starting" issues, has anyone encountered the situation where the starter operates but the Bendix sounds as if there is a missing flywheel tooth?
It will happen once, maybe twice in succession. Let sit for a few moments and then it engages. I have also rocked the car a couple of times and the flywheel is engaged.
Comments?

[4CamJon]

Ordered my starter from Jerry today. I will be helping my mechanic take the plenum off tomorrow to get ready for the starter.

Thanks for the tips Jerry.:cheers:

[Paul Workman]

Speaking of "starting" issues, has anyone encountered the situation where the starter operates but the Bendix sounds as if there is a missing flywheel tooth?
It will happen once, maybe twice in succession. Let sit for a few moments and then it engages. I have also rocked the car a couple of times and the flywheel is engaged.
Comments?

Dom, if ever you serviced your starter with a kit off of ebay, there is a good chance the thrust (plunger) pin could be too short!

The pin in the starter rebuild kit I got off ebay was too short by half the width of the bendix gear. Had I used the new armature instead of reusing the stock one, my fear (now and at the time) was it might cause exactly the kind of problem your describing.

IF, when the starter spins, but does NOT engage the FW ring gear, it might just be a bad bendix. But, especially if there is any metal-on-metal shrieking or grinding to go with the starter's free spinning, a damaged ring or pinion gear can't be ruled out until it is inspected (especially when moving the car in gear alleviates the [apparent engagement] problem...really says ring gear to me, FWIW) *

*Inspect that thrust pin and see if it forces the pinion gear to full engagement with the ring gear.
Inspect the entire ring gear for broken or damaged teeth.
replace the bendix

[soslow]

Dom, if ever you serviced your starter with a kit off of ebay, there is a good chance the thrust (plunger) pin could be too short!



The pin in the starter rebuild kit I got off ebay was too short by half the width of the bendix gear. Had I used the new armature instead of reusing the stock one, my fear (now and at the time) was it might cause exactly the kind of problem your describing.



IF, when the starter spins, but does NOT engage the FW ring gear, it might just be a bad bendix. But, especially if there is any metal-on-metal shrieking or grinding to go with the starter's free spinning, a damaged ring or pinion gear can't be ruled out until it is inspected (especially when moving the car in gear alleviates the [apparent engagement] problem...really says ring gear to me, FWIW) *



*Inspect that thrust pin and see if it forces the pinion gear to full engagement with the ring gear.

Inspect the entire ring gear for broken or damaged teeth.

replace the bendix







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