Damn oil drain plug

[Dime]

Well, was just out trying to change my oil. Easy enough right? Well I don't know what the hell I did last time (apparently I was mad and juicing at the time), but I couldn't get the plug to budge one bit. Started to round the plug some.

So, being the genius I am, I just grabbed a set of vise grips knowing that this would get it loose. ("I'll just order a new plug anyway.") Tapped it a bit, pulled and pulled, and rounded the plug some more.

Question is, applying heat safe?

I'll go back out tomorrow and see if I can get a cheater bar on there some how as well.

Thanks

[A26B]

When they get rounded too bad for a box end wrench or a 6pt socket, try an 8" pipe wrench with a cheater. Holds better than vise grips.

[Dynomite]

When they get rounded too bad for a box end wrench or a 6pt socket, try an 8" pipe wrench with a cheater. Holds better than vise grips.

Yes....concur.....the pipe wrench gets tighter with torque and that 8 inch should be perfect :thumbsup:
(use a large box wrench with box on pipe wrench handle or pipe as a cheater).
But before you use 8 inch pipe wrench get yourself a New OEM Oil Pan Drain Plug (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/plug-oil-pan-drain-oem-90-95-2e5)

Or Aftermarket Oil Pan Drain Plug (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/plug-oil-pan-drain-90-95-1b4)
and the Seal Washer (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/seal-washer-oil-pan-drain-plug-bonded-90-95-7c3/)

A little heat directed at the existing plug might help.

Oil Pan Drain Plug (14 mm Box wrench).....38 ft-lbs (5/8-18 Thread).....actually a bit less torque with a bit of Permatex on the washer/threads.
I never use a torque wrench on Oil Pan Plugs.....just a 14mm box wrench and pull about "this" much which is not too much :D

[Jagdpanzer]

Give the head of the plug a couple of good raps with a shop hammer and use a 6 point socket as Jerry suggests and it will come right out.

[WVZR-1]

Oil Pan Drain Plug (14 mm Box wrench).....38 ft-lbs (5/8-18 Thread).....actually a bit less torque with a bit of Permatex on the washer/threads.
I never use a torque wrench on Oil Pan Plugs.....just a 14mm box wrench and pull about "this" much which is not too much :D



Hello Cliff - Engine Oil Drain Plug is by design a 9/16" HEX

Yes to the short pipe wrench suggested by Jerry if the OP has issues.

I have a few NOS Drain Plugs and maybe a couple of the Magnetic Inserted.

[Dynomite]

Hello Cliff - Engine Oil Drain Plug is by design a 9/16" HEX

Yes to the short pipe wrench suggested by Jerry if the OP has issues.

I have a few NOS Drain Plugs and maybe a couple of the Magnetic Inserted.

Hi Dave: I am always a bit different as you know :p
The Oil Drain Plug .................9/16 is .5625 inches (14.2875 mm)
The Battery Cable bolt .......... 5/16 is .3125 inches (7.9375 mm)

Just now I had to go out and confirm on two ZR-1s ;)
For the Oil Pan Drain Plug the 14 mm actually fits just a tiny bit tighter than the 9/16 which is good.
For the Battery Cable Bolts to Battery Connection the 8 mm fits just a tiny bit more loose than the 5/16 which is fine.

Both the 14mm and 8mm flex head ratchet box open end wrenches are perfect for the set of Tools to Carry in the ZR-1 (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-9.html#post1588414140)

[WVZR-1]

Hi Dave: I am always a bit different as you know :p
The Oil Drain Plug .................9/16 is .5625 inches (14.2875 mm)
The Battery Cable bolt .......... 5/16 is .3125 inches (7.9375 mm)

Just now I had to go out and confirm on two ZR-1s ;)
For the Oil Pan Drain Plug the 14 mm actually fits just a tiny bit tighter than the 9/16 which is good.
For the Battery Cable Bolts to Battery Connection the 8 mm fits just a tiny bit more loose than the 5/16 which is fine.

Both the 14mm and 8mm flex head ratchet box open end wrenches are perfect for the set of Tools to Carry in the ZR-1 (http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-9.html#post1588414140)

Yes I do know about the bit different LOL and having NOS drain plugs BUT having always used a 9/16 box end I had to take a NOS drain plug and try the M14 after seeing this thread. An M14 wouldn't fit the NOS drain plug. An older drain plug is quite likely a fit. It's been a few years since we discussed the battery terminal bolt hex requirements.

[Dynomite]

Yes I do know about the bit different LOL and having NOS drain plugs BUT having always used a 9/16 box end I had to take a NOS drain plug and try the M14 after seeing this thread. An M14 wouldn't fit the NOS drain plug. An older drain plug is quite likely a fit. It's been a few years since we discussed the battery terminal bolt hex requirements.

Ha....yep.....you know what I would do in the case of a NOS drain plug :)

I would take it to my grind wheel or even a flat file in a vice for about 10 seconds :D

That would then be MNOS....not a case of get the right tool....but a case of get the right Drain Plug :sign10:

My best little modification is on the Belt Tensioner with a flat file (a 10 second modification) to allow this very cool Belt Tensioner Pulley to spin like crazy.
I do not like plastic stuff....DO like Billet Aluminum stuff (Oil Fill Cap, Dip Stick Handle, Belt Tensioner Pulley are examples) ;)
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Maintenance%20ZR1/BeltTensionerAluminumPulley.jpg

I am NOT an NCRS person either :handshak:

[efnfast]

Craftsman makes a great set of bolt extractor sockets.
http://www.google.com/shopping/product/3102976818844417063?lsf=seller:9119074,store:97167 6191297172291,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:18080743250837539034&q=Craftsman+10+pc.+Damaged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out&hl=en&ei=QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw&lsft=lsf:seller:9119074,store:971676191297172291,p rds:oid:18080743250837539034,q:Craftsman+10+pc.+Da maged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out,lsfq:AA316eq0K2f7OA-3zoLjgMvYuY_VZpa8Np8OEnBnK7aaLfnbWOkSfPwoWMUELPL2G fFs096siZiMYkszWzmvXgrKJa_s7W2C-A,hl:en,ei:QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw
These things work wonders.

[Dynomite]

I'll go back out tomorrow and see if I can get a cheater bar on there some how as well.

Thanks

Well......did you get the oil drain plug removed?
What method worked for you?

[Dime]

Well......did you get the oil drain plug removed?
What method worked for you?

Well I didn't. I honestly have no clue why on earth it's this tight. The pipe wrench just chewed it up a bit more.

I think the biggest problem is getting a decent angle, leverage. Working under a car on jack stands is torture to me. Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.

[Dynomite]

Well I didn't. I honestly have no clue why on earth it's this tight. The pipe wrench just chewed it up a bit more.

I think the biggest problem is getting a decent angle, leverage. Working under a car on jack stands is torture to me. Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.
Damn.......well you already said that....
You hit it like Phil said?
You tried pipe wrench like Jerry said?
I guess Heat........Heat will break loose any kind of sealing/glue that someone used or corrosion.

First......take a drive and get the oil good and hot.....then try to remove the oil drain plug with oil hot.

I always use heat if nothing else works except on Cam Cover Original Torx 40s (could not get heat in that area).....
For The Cam Cover Original Torx 40s I use Chisel which works great (was actually very surprised a chisel works). And that with engine in car.

Heat does work great (and the only concept that works) for the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds Torx 30 bolts which are not only corroded in the threads but along the bolt shaft within the coolant manifold. I apply heat to each bolt length/Manifold length and Injector Housing threaded area for each bolt one at a time. Then make sure I do not mess up the Torx 30 slots. Heat ALWAYS works. I use an acetylene torch.

Just do not start a fire and remember it is Aluminum Oil Pan.
Apply heat directly to the area around the Drain Plug...try it.....apply more heat...try again.....and so on.

Found this on google (which was maybe a steel oil pan).

Quickly heat the plug with an oxy-fuel torch, then use a pre-set pipe wrench on it immediately, before it has a chance to cool. Just barely crack it, don't unscrew. Once it cracks loose, let it cool before unscrewing.
Make sure to have water or a fire extinguisher handy, as flaming oil dripping out is a possibility.
If the head is too far gone, weld a larger nut onto it. If you're lucky, the weld heat will be enough.
Heat works on virtually any stuck fastener, far better than anything else, because above 1000°, rust becomes a lubricant.

Aluminum melts at 1,221 deg F

[WVZR-1]

Might take it down to a mechanic I know well and see if he'll let me have some time on a lift.

This is certainly the right move.

A 5/8-18 oil pan drain plug is a more difficult find than most SO I'd be shopping maybe before visiting Your "friend". Maybe have Jerry send you a drain plug and the sealing washer first!! Another couple days I'd think of no concern.

[LGAFF]

problem solved

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus-New-/331403447181?hash=item4d292f4b8d:g:GjsAAOSwDNdVt7w ~&item=331403447181&vxp=mtr

[RussMcB]

I'm not sure how comfortable you might be with the following, but it's what I'd do (after trying everything to unscrew the plug).

Definitely have a new plug on hand as a first step. Also, the proper size tap, a magnet, dental picks and anti-seize.

I'd try some sort of screw extractor kit, making sure the initial hole you drill is dead center.

That most definitely should work, but if not, I'd keep drilling a bigger hole in the drain plug until it can be picked out in pieces.

When done you'll want to run a tap through it so the pan's threads are true again.

I'm guessing the plug is steel, so you can use a magnet to help clean up any swarf that gets inside the pan. There shouldn't be too much. You could blow air into the dip stick tube to help blow it out, too.

Use anti-seize when putting the new plug in place.

A range of possible ideas here:
https://www.google.com/#q=screw+extractor+kit+oil+drain+plug

Good luck.

[Jagdpanzer]

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

[Dynomite]

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

Really?
Now that is NEWS :handshak:

I think before I start with some serious Oil Drain Plug Removal I would just remove the Oil Pan on a Lift (catch some spilled oil in a drip pan). Then get serious with the Oil Pan on a Bench.

Helicoil Insert......Very Intersting......so the Helicoil is obviously steel inserted into a threaded (larger thread) Aluminum Oil Pan factor installed?

Could that not mean that the steel Oil Pan Drain Plug is corroded to the Helicoil and in trying to remove the Drain Plug you are actually trying to remove the Helicoil?

[32valvesftw]

I ask this in all seriousness and without intent to insult the OP but are sure you turning it the correct way? Counter-clockwise.

[WVZR-1]

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

Yes it does but what would you expect that the male thread might be? I certainly wouldn't want to damage it.

Could it be that the OP or PO was sold an incorrect drain plug and it was a seemingly "force fit" that someone assumed was correct and actually did "force it".

OP - did you maybe purchase a replacement drain plug at some point?

[Dynomite]

Dave or Phil. explain the Helicoil business. I will take a close look at a couple oil pans on the bench today.

[WVZR-1]

Dave or Phil. explain the Helicoil business. I will take a close look at a couple oil pans on the bench today.

It will be obvious with a close visual, especially since you've been informed. It's magnetic also and I doubt that the OP has a corrosion situation with the plug to insert thread. I believe I realized it when the fellow who was selling the Magnetic DP had misinformation regarding the LT5 thread and I questioned him regarding it. He sent me one to try in my NOS pan to confirm the thread for him. That was a very long time ago. If you have a pan with the windage tray removed it should be more obvious. Mine is an NOS with the windage tray in place and I wouldn't remove mine for inspection.

[A26B]

I can also confirm the oil pan helicoil as being original. I think I even have a couple of the pan helicoils laying around somewhere.

[Dynomite]

For everyones information the oil pan drain comes with a factory installed helicoil thread insert.

Yep Phil.....learn something new every day and makes sense that the steel ............The second photo for Dave to show a 14 mm open end flex head
Helicoil is installed to reduce wear and tear on an Aluminum Thread. ......................ratchet works perfectly on Oil Drain Plug ;)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite14/91ffe1a5-4649-42bd-9211-7d161d5a7e59.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite14/360f83ce-d075-412a-99a3-16629c53d14b.jpg

It will be obvious with a close visual, especially since you've been informed.
It was obvious without removing the windage tray as I could see the beginning and end of the Steel Helicoil very clearly from the outside.

I can also confirm the oil pan helicoil as being original. I think I even have a couple of the pan helicoils laying around somewhere.
Ever run into an issue with the Oil Pan Plug being screwed into a Helicoil?

[A26B]

....................Ever run into an issue with the Oil Pan Plug being screwed into a Helicoil?

No, I have not.

[Dynomite]

No, I have not.
I never screw in the Oil Pan Plugs with all that much torque. I do use your Oil Pan sealing washer and a bit of P E R M A T E X ;)

Was just wondering how heat would help a stuck Oil Pan Drain Plug given there is a Helicoil involved.

[A26B]

I never screw in the Oil Pan Plugs with all that much torque. I do use your Oil Pan sealing washer and a bit of P E R M A T E X ;)
You probably dip chips in the stuff too! :sign10:

Was just wondering how heat would help a stuck Oil Pan Drain Plug given there is a Helicoil involved.

I would use a large center punch on the flange out close to the o.d. & drive it CCW. It'll come loose.

[Dynomite]

You probably dip chips in the stuff too! :sign10:
You think........Just like BBQ sauce :sign10:

I would use a large center punch on the flange out close to the o.d. & drive it CCW. It'll come loose.
Now we are talking.....:thumbsup:

A steel chisel on the flange would prolly be easier to get a purchase.

Exactly how I removed Cam Cover Torx 40s with engine in car (those I screwed up with the Torx 40 driver). They were in solid but I used a steel chisel Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-4.html#post1581665190)

[WVZR-1]

OP needs his friends lift and if either have an air chisel I'd use a "blunt tip" on very low air pressure and jar the sh!! out of the plug. Continue using the short "pipe wrench".

Cliff - an M14 does NOT fit a correct drain plug with a good HEX. A massaged one or well worn? Yes you've showed that. LOL Now if someone takes an M14 and it doesn't fit, reaches for the M15 which is NEXT in the progression, what happens? Might it end up rounded?

THE NOTIFICATIONS FIX CAME JUST IN TIME - LOL I would not have wanted to miss this one.

.

This is different than Dave jarring the sh!! out of it and staying with a pipe wrench :p
I am guessing there is not much of the Hex left on that Oil Pan Drain Plug. I still say (Helicoil or not) try a bit of heat.

The wire wound threaded insert is quite light as you've observed. Heat maybe not it's best friend. No I wouldn't have reached for the M15 because I knew to start with the correct 9/16 BOX.

[Dynomite]

If Jerry would try a 14mm box wrench on these I would be most appreciative :cheers:

Oil Pan Drain Plug (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/plug-oil-pan-drain-oem-90-95-2e5) and Aftermarket Oil Pan Drain Plug (http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/plug-oil-pan-drain-90-95-1b4)

I still cannot believe a chisel and small hammer worked on the Torx 40 Cam Cover bolts. I actually chiseled counterclockwise and it took 10 bangs after creating a purchase on one side of the Torx 40. The 10 bangs actually rotated the Torx 40 about 180 deg or more with the first 5 bangs just to get it started.

[32valvesftw]

I had a galled up steel bolt stuck in my aluminum bar-backs on the bike, the only thing that worked was a small SHARP Chisel and a hammer. It has worked for me many times, even recently in a broken u-joint bolt that broke in the yoke.

[LGAFF]

Once the plug is out, send everyone a video of you going mid-evil on it, like the fax machine in office space!:mad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svvc47Tr0R8

[Dynomite]

Once the plug is out, send everyone a video of you going mid-evil on it, like the fax machine in office space!:mad:


You obviously misunderstood how we (I and 32valvesftw) did it :D
We can explain it to you but not understand it for you :sign10:

[gbrtng]

here's what you need - just suck the oil out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Removal-Pump-Vacuum-Extractor-Vac-Motor-Fluid-Car-Oil-Change-Boat-/111817684085?hash=item1a08da7475:g:e4IAAOSwLVZV1NU P

[PhillipsLT5]

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp

[G-Sting]

Once the plug is out, send everyone a video of you going mid-evil on it, like the fax machine in office space!:mad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svvc47Tr0R8

Y'all seem really to being enjoying this thread. :wink: :icon_scra

Of course we've all been there in one form or another - wrestling with a stubborn bolt, breaking one, rounding off the head, etc.

On another vehicle after an oil change, I put in the old drain plug (and shouldn't have) and when it bottomed out, it just spun and spun - wouldn't tighten. Nor would it come back out one bit!

Called a friend who has about seen it all, and we ended up dropping the oil pan, drilling the bolt from the center outwards, and collapsing it on itself. Replaced with new bolt, oil pan gasket, etc. Fun times, indeed.

:saluting:

[WVZR-1]

Called a friend who has about seen it all, and we ended up dropping the oil pan, drilling the bolt from the center outwards, and collapsing it on itself. Replaced with new bolt, oil pan gasket, etc. Fun times, indeed.

:saluting:

The LT5 if it's got an OE plug could be done this way from the inside and only requiring an extractor/easy-out because the OE/GM plug has a counter bore on it.

To the counter-bore from the face of the hex is something less that 1/2" and the counter bore is 3/8" SO.. if you drilled close to center and worked up to 3/8" you could drain the pan and insert an extractor with little problem from the outside OR continue on and increase the diameter as you wish to whatever you felt you needed.

*** Cliff - I have 11 NOS and a 12 point M14 will "FIT NONE"

[LGAFF]

I had an epic battle with an oil filter...pics are here somewhere....torn in half trying to remove it from the LT-5. Had to use a punch to drive it off....I feel your pain

[Dynomite]

The LT5 if it's got an OE plug could be done this way from the inside and only requiring an extractor/easy-out because the OE/GM plug has a counter bore on it.

To the counter-bore from the face of the hex is something less that 1/2" and the counter bore is 3/8" SO.. if you drilled close to center and worked up to 3/8" you could drain the pan and insert an extractor with little problem from the outside OR continue on and increase the diameter as you wish to whatever you felt you needed.

*** Cliff - I have 11 NOS and a 12 point M14 will "FIT NONE"

Great Idea Dave....I am watching and learning ;)
Oh...Dave.....I have tried 6 oil pans (5 istalled on the LT5s) and ALL six Oil Drain Plugs (all installed in Oil Pans) take a 12 pt 14mm Flex Head open end socket wrench perfectly. I feel so sorry for you and anyone having all those NOS Oil Drain Plugs that do not take a 14 mm open end wrench. And....that 14mm Flex Head Open End Socket wrench fits so nice and tight with almost no play. :sign10:

Happy New Year Dave and anyone watching us :handshak:

An EPIC Battle would be one in which if the battle did not work out you have to remove the engine :D

[32valvesftw]

The worst that comes to memory, Jeep Cherokee, broken rear shock bolts, snapped off in frame/body. Total of 16 hrs labor to remove/replace.

[LGAFF]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0730.jpg

[efnfast]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q115/lgaff/DSCN0730.jpg
That filter give you a tough time Lee?

[Paul Workman]

Tune in next week and see how to do your first plenum pull!

You won't want to miss this tread, so be sure to mark it on your calendars!! :sign10:

[ZR-1 Franz]

Hello from Switzerland,

If I look at your oilfilter I ask myself what kind
of tool you used to remove the oilfilter.
I guess you used this (see picture)

To all you ZR-1 enthusiasts: a very happy new year!

[LGAFF]

Here is my original note from the filter removal

Changed the oil in the 90, went to remove the filter....broke an Oil adapter for removing the filter, tried another, rounded off the filter, tried a strap oil filter remover....would not budge. Went to the store bought a damn clamp to remove it, no luck.

Pipe wrench, twisted the body of the filter, but did not move the base.

Shoved a screwdriver through it, ripped it open.

Keep in mind, I weight 260lbs, and putting my weight on it would not move it.
Cut open the filter, tried a hammer and chisel in the opening at the base, would not move....and it was a big *** hammer.

Had to drill holes in the seal, and use the above method with the hammer to remove it.

[ZR-1 Franz]

Please tell me, after all that, the LT5, was it still on its place?


Franz

[LGAFF]

Yep....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DPZ9NcV8Qg

[32valvesftw]

I have had some frozen filters in the past one or two on my own vehicles, I always wonder how that happens. Same with this guys oil drain plug, how did that get so seized up. I guess the mating flange of the bolt could have seized to the pan? The helical should avoid most galvanic corrosion issues. Similar with the oil filters the gasket should act as an insulator. In the previously mentioned case of the bolt on my bike thats on me. The manual calls for a stainless bolt, I cheaped out and bought a "temporary" steel socket head cap screw, while thinking about ordering the $18 bolt from Germany.
Anyway I would be good to hear from the original poster to see what worked and what didn't.

[ZR-1 Franz]

441 RWHP!

[BigJohn]

Turning it in the right direction?

[Racinfan83]

First thing I woulda tried is a 1/2" drive impact with a 6 point socket once the wrench started to slip.. Might still be an option if the thing is in good enough shape to file a bit and hammer on a socket...
I broke two quality sockets and a 3" extension trying to get spindle bolts out of my 15 yr old Dodge 4x4. My cheap impact didn't have enough poop to get em either. SO I went and bought a better impact. Zipped em right out... =D>

[32valvesftw]

I don't think the original poster has gotten back to us with what worked or didn't. I would like to know for future reference.

[Dime]

My apologies for not posting my resolution.

Craftsman makes a great set of bolt extractor sockets.
http://www.google.com/shopping/product/3102976818844417063?lsf=seller:9119074,store:97167 6191297172291,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:18080743250837539034&q=Craftsman+10+pc.+Damaged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out&hl=en&ei=QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw&lsft=lsf:seller:9119074,store:971676191297172291,p rds:oid:18080743250837539034,q:Craftsman+10+pc.+Da maged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out,lsfq:AA316eq0K2f7OA-3zoLjgMvYuY_VZpa8Np8OEnBnK7aaLfnbWOkSfPwoWMUELPL2G fFs096siZiMYkszWzmvXgrKJa_s7W2C-A,hl:en,ei:QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw
These things work wonders.

I just bought this exact set. Tapped one onto the plug and got it loose very easily. I wasn't very confident in it holding, but it came loose on the first try.

[Racinfan83]

My apologies for not posting my resolution.

http://www.google.com/shopping/product/3102976818844417063?lsf=seller:9119074,store:97167 6191297172291,lsfqd:0&prds=oid:18080743250837539034&q=Craftsman+10+pc.+Damaged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out&hl=en&ei=QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw&lsft=lsf:seller:9119074,store:971676191297172291,p rds:oid:18080743250837539034,q:Craftsman+10+pc.+Da maged+Bolt/Nut+Remover+Set+Low+Profile+Bolt-Out,lsfq:AA316eq0K2f7OA-3zoLjgMvYuY_VZpa8Np8OEnBnK7aaLfnbWOkSfPwoWMUELPL2G fFs096siZiMYkszWzmvXgrKJa_s7W2C-A,hl:en,ei:QZd-Vv_aHIn9mAGilakw

I just bought this exact set. Tapped one onto the plug and got it loose very easily. I wasn't very confident in it holding, but it came loose on the first try.

Just for future reference - the biggest one in that set works like a champ for removing locking lug nuts as well. When I got my DD it had one locking nut on each wheel and no key wrench. Tire shop was like "you HAVE to find the key"... I did. One of those extractors. Came back 1/2hr later and they were amazed...lol