Oil pan bolts

[Vetman]

I know this has been discussed numerous times in the past. My question is to tighten all the oil pan bolts what has to be removed?

[LGAFF]

You should be able to remove the two beams that attach to the rails and from cross member. The engine and mounts are actually sitting on a thick plate(cradle)....so the beam are not supporting the engine; the plate along with the transmisson beams will support the motor w/o the beams....

[Vetman]

My second question is concerning the two inch diameter oil spot that appears under the front of the engine, passenger side, every time I park the car. Could this oil be from the cooler lines? Car is stock 67,000 mi. Not driven hard.

[LGAFF]

Oil cooler lines or one of the 2 oil pressure sensors......

[Vetman]

Thank you!! You are a wealth of knowledge. I want to get this taken care of before my four day drive to the gathering in May. Can't wait to make the trip!

[LGAFF]

I will post some pics this weekend of the cross members/oil sensors

[Vetman]

Since I have you on line. If the cooler lines are the culprit are they available locally like a dealer? If the oil sensors are bad, where I get them?

[Dynomite]

My second question is concerning the two inch diameter oil spot that appears under the front of the engine, passenger side, every time I park the car. Could this oil be from the cooler lines? Car is stock 67,000 mi. Not driven hard.

Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1581302471)

Oil Filter Adapter Functions (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=194213)

If the oil sensors are bad, where I get them?
Jerry's Gaskets (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/) has the Sensors and Switches in stock.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/B%20Engine%20LT5/SOilFilterHousingLabel_zps4cacf14a.jpghttp://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/Dynomite4/e16778a7-93e5-454c-807d-3d136a877a75.jpg

Since I have you on line. If the cooler lines are the culprit are they available locally like a dealer?

Some of us make our own SS with Reusable Fittings Oil Cooler Lines. Those that make their own hoses usually have the original Oil Cooler Hose Assemblies which had shown NO leaks before removal for Resale as you like on Ebay.

Jerry's Gaskets (http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/) Also has New Oil Cooler Hose Assemblies in SS Braid or Black Braid.

ZR1 Engine (LT5) Bolts and Hydraulics (http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=148468)

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/C%20Engine%20LT5/79b54cb3-a864-4f5c-b659-f4099c360f7b.jpg

[Vetman]

Thanks. I will order from jerry! Is this a relatively easy job?

[A26B]

Thanks. I will order from jerry! Is this a relatively easy job?

To help you find the items Lee defined as possible oil leak source.

You have 2 styles of hoses to choose from, black-braided and SS braided

BLACK
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=888

Stainless
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=887


The two oil pressure units (1 is a switch, the other is a sender) Lee referred to

Switch
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=346

Sender (Big one on top)
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=106

[Dynomite]

Thanks. I will order from jerry! Is this a relatively easy job?

Replacing the Oil Cooler Hose Assembly is very easily accomplished. Use a small socket (to remove the bolt holding the Oil Cooler Hose Assembly to the Oil Cooler) and use an open end of appropriate size for the hose assembly Nuts screwed onto the Oil Filter Adapter. There are two "O" rings on the Oil Cooler Adapter to Oil Cooler.

Tightening the OPRV Valve (Oil Pressure Regulating Valve) Cover Plate bolts is another story because of lack of access ;)

[orthodoct]

I am pulling exhaust manifolds for headers. Removed AIR pumps and all of its invasive tentacles. Got a few questions:
1. Replace engine heat shields that bolt to oil pan?
2. Just leave AIR pump connectors hanging?
3.. Just finished top end rebuild. New oil leak (or last remaining one) front DRIVERS edge of oil pan. Area around front cover appears dry, but some on front edge of crossmember. Thinking of removing K braces to get a better look. Oil pan gasket? Drove about 100 miles since top end rebuild and oil appears fresh, but no drips on floor.
Thanks!

[Dynomite]

I am pulling exhaust manifolds for headers. Removed AIR pumps and all of its invasive tentacles. Got a few questions:
1. Replace engine heat shields that bolt to oil pan?
2. Just leave AIR pump connectors hanging?
3.. Just finished top end rebuild. New oil leak (or last remaining one) front DRIVERS edge of oil pan. Area around front cover appears dry, but some on front edge of crossmember. Thinking of removing K braces to get a better look. Oil pan gasket? Drove about 100 miles since top end rebuild and oil appears fresh, but no drips on floor.
Thanks!

Yes....use the heat shields to help keep the O2 sensor wiring away from the exhaust. Take a grinder and just modify the heat shields so they fit within 1/8 inch of the new Headers without contacting the Headers.

Remove the Air pump and all that associated stuff. See Item #5 LT5 Eliminated Systems (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/2942569-tech-info-lt5-eliminated-systems.html)

I would say your OPRV Cover is a bit loose. See Item #2 Potential Oil Leaks and the OPRV Cover Plate (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp.html#post1581302471)

[orthodoct]

Dynomite, I think that you are right. I have exhaust manifolds off and looks like the way to get at that corner is by removing right engine mount. Will also allow access to O2 sensor connector. Heard that the leads need to be lengthened to allow sufficient length to connect to Stainless Works headers, or better yet, fabricate an adapter. The wire used is stranded with teflon insulation in a head resistant sleeve. Terminal Supply Company sells all of the connectors originally used on the ZR1, but digging out what is needed is like searching for a needle in a haystack. I'm familiar with their site and can maybe get some parts, wire, sleeve to make up some adapters. Jerry could then maybe offer them. What lengths would be needed, driver and passenger? I rebuilt the A/C clutch connector when it crumbled from parts from Terminal supply; factory correct. Part of drivers O2 sensor connector crumbled when removed. Could MAYBE find caps for connectors used on AIR system to protect them. Will be happy to share all that I find with the group. You have all been very gracious, and I will be honored to contribute.
TY

[orthodoct]

should be HEAT resistant sleeve!