post only, restore my zr-1

[zr-1.R1]

first of all I apologize for my bad English by google translate.

peaks is my first series 1990, 59,000 km and two owners, was stopped three years.
the first thing I changed the spark plugs, they were wrong, changed the oil, checked that the vacuum pump would work and that the system vacuum was ok.
now the car is better, but at least occasionally miss a beat.
also in acceleration is not very bad.
the first thing I ordered the inettori overhauled to SFI guaranteed three years now I wanted to ask before installing them, the plastic plugs SFI told me not to remove them, is that right?
I will stop for now, later on other questions, thanks

[zr-1.R1]

I forgot the injectors are bosh, however, are marked ford?????
is this normal??

[LGAFF]

Using ford motorsports injectors is a common replacement. You will need the O-Rings on the Secondary injectors; on the primary you do not need the O-rings and plastic retainers on the injector. On the primary the injector o-ring is in the injector housing and the body of the injector will seal there.

[scottfab]

The injectors look to be the correct ones for a 1990 ZR-1.
I think the plastic must come off. Take pictures with plastic off
for us to see.
The "Ford" stamp indicates manufacturer of the injectors not
the car it can go into.

[zr-1.R1]

the black plastic on the injector does not come off, the manufacturer SFI demand removal so he told me, word for word:

hi, leave the caps on. They are not to be taken off .

now the ones with the blue cap I should be so, while on queli with black plastic, I have doubt !

[LGAFF]

Leave the blue cap on the secondary port

[Schrade]

first of all I apologize for my bad English by google translate.


After you get a translation result in Google Translate, take the result OF English, and do a reverse translate, BACK INTO Italian, and see how it comes out in Italian. You will be surprised. This will show you what words for which you might need a synonym.

Most of the time, it's not too important, since English and Italian are rooted in Latin. But occasionally, it IS important...

[zr-1.R1]

doubt lies in the secondary injectors, in many photos I've seen them like this.
the photo is on the site of SFI, which is why I have doubts?
Now what to do?
forcibly remove the black cap?

Schrade ok, with a couple of tries, you get a very good result

[Schrade]

Give heed to the advice of those people on the forum [website] boards here (after concensus), and NOT so much to the vendors of the parts.

[zr-1.R1]

ok schrade , other tips?
black plastic cap on this?

[XfireZ51]

What black plastic caps are we talking about? You don't mean the seals for the fuel rails, do you? The ones at the top of the injector?
The blue cap? That stays ON???

[zr-1.R1]

those photos that cover the tip

[Dynomite]

See item #4 Installing Fuel Rails and Ignition Coils (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825225)

Your Blue Caps to NOT cover the "O" ring but I think that cam serves same purpose as blue cap on RC Secondary Injectors (protect the tip from getting contaminated). So....Blue cap comes off.....

How are the Black Caps attached???
I am not so sure they do not come off also.......if when off they look like the RC injectors below (RC without Blue Cap and without "O" ring attached)...I would say off with them. Especially if they just pop off easily. Is there a hole in the bottom of those black caps?

4. Fuel Rails.

Lubricate the Injector "O" rings before installing the Fuel Rails. The Fuel Tank Purge and Cruze Control Vacuum Lines exit the Plenum area under the Fuel Rails to the Passenger side of the engine. The Fuel Line Connections to the Fuel rails are installed AFTER the Passenger Side Plenum bolt closest to the Fire Wall is installed.

The RC Secondary come with Blue Caps covering the "O" ring. The Blue Caps must be removed before installing the RC Secondary Injectors.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/RCinjectors1.jpg

"O" Rings in IH and on Injectors......Primary LEFT ("O" Ring in IH) and Secondary RIGHT ("O" Ring on Injector)

Used just a tad of white grease on the "O" rings (Primary and Secondary Injectors) for easy installation of injectors.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/RCInjectors.jpg

[zr-1.R1]

the plastic caps are pierced at the tip, you can see in the first photo, you do not remove by hand.
I now ask more info factory s.f.i.
then will update

[Dynomite]

the plastic caps are pierced at the tip, you can see in the first photo, you do not remove by hand.
I now ask more info factory s.f.i.
then will update

Then it sounds like the black caps stay on would be my guess....just making sure they do not come off after installed and the injector can eject fuel out the end of the black cap :cheers:

[Schrade]

Good snappics there Cliff!

See item #4 Installing Fuel Rails and Ignition Coils (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-zr-1-discussion/3005470-tech-info-lt5-modifications-rebuild-tricks-500-hp-5.html#post1581825225)

Your Blue Caps to NOT cover the "O" ring but I think that cam serves same purpose as blue cap on RC Secondary Injectors (protect the tip from getting contaminated). So....Blue cap comes off.....

How are the Black Caps attached???
I am not so sure they do not come off also.......if when off they look like the RC injectors below (RC without Blue Cap and without "O" ring attached)...I would say off with them. Especially if they just pop off easily. Is there a hole in the bottom of those black caps?

4. Fuel Rails.

Lubricate the Injector "O" rings before installing the Fuel Rails. The Fuel Tank Purge and Cruze Control Vacuum Lines exit the Plenum area under the Fuel Rails to the Passenger side of the engine. The Fuel Line Connections to the Fuel rails are installed AFTER the Passenger Side Plenum bolt closest to the Fire Wall is installed.

The RC Secondary come with Blue Caps covering the "O" ring. The Blue Caps must be removed before installing the RC Secondary Injectors.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/91%20ZR1/RCinjectors1.jpg

"O" Rings in IH and on Injectors......Primary LEFT ("O" Ring in IH) and Secondary RIGHT ("O" Ring on Injector)

Used just a tad of white grease on the "O" rings (Primary and Secondary Injectors) for easy installation of injectors.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll142/dynomite007/LT5/RCInjectors.jpg

[zr-1.R1]

ok, contacted the company, they gave me the following confirmation:


Leave the caps on!!!. They will not fall off as they are there for a reason, To protect the nozzle
Plus the injectors with the blue caps hold on the o-rings .

the factory s.f.i , has confirmed that the plastic caps must remain, protects the injector and does not create problems.
hopefully good!

[zr-1.R1]

Hello everyone, it's a time that I do not participate, but I read every day zr1 net.
Now with the holidays in the month of August, I continued work on my zr1 , I removed the plenum to change the injector, one for sure it was broken, the car jumped a beat, I eventually removed the covers
on the injector, I did not trust. But now I need your help and expertise

[zr-1.R1]

I have some doubts before to talk about the main problem.
1) the standard injector were very hard to remove, but when I put the new ones are entered with ease, is this normal?
2) When I reinstalled the injectors, as I pulled the bracket screws the original injectors were lifted up from the seat as if it were different from those series, but I measured with the likes everything seemed ok.
so I had to do different stainless steel brackets to install the new injectors
Has it ever happened to you, I myself have been shipped the wrong injector? help me

[zr-1.R1]

other photos, with bracket modficata.
it's ugly, but it is functional .
to the above problems, no one can give me advice?

[XfireZ51]

So if I understand, the new injectors are longer than the originals? Maybe you would be better off using Accels or some other "standard" injector that several of us use.

[zr-1.R1]

I think they are shorter. others here on the forum have used the same injector, where I got them, I have ensured that were specific to my model! I'm a little confused.
after fitting everything, I tried the machine and when the key is in the normal engine goes tearing sobs, while in full power with the key goes well, you have ideas?

[Schrade]

When you use Google Translate, take the English result which is given to you, and translate it BACK to your native language, again using Google Translate.

It will occasionally translate BACK to you as unintelligible.

It will show you that your syntax / semantics might need a different sequence, and it will show that some words do not translate with the same meaning.

Also try to use Latin-based words, since both of our languages are Latin-based.

[zr-1.R1]

hello Schrade, usage tips as you translate, but sometimes the results are not good.
when the key is in normal position the car will not run, jump, sobbing.
when the key is in position full power, the engine is working properly.

[A26B]

I think you may have the primary & secondary injectors not placed correctly, maybe backwards. You have the primary where the secondary should be.

If so,

1. it would keep the injectors from going all the way down (why you made new longer brackets

and

2. why the injectors went in so easy compared to the ones that came out.

Also, I think the blue plastic piece is there to keep the lower o-ring on the bottom of the secondary injectors.

Take it all apart again & put the injector with the blue tip in the injector housing hole that does NOT have the o-ring seal inside & the other injector that had the black tip in the injector housing hole that has the o-ring seal inside.

[zr-1.R1]

hello jerry, injector right position, I checked well.
in the picture, a zr1, a member of the forum, use the same injector

[zr-1.R1]

my injector

[Schrade]

You say that when you have the POWER KEY in LOW power position, it does not start, but with the POWER KEY in FULL power, it DOES start.

This condition sounds like power for pulsewidth, which makes injectors deliver fuel, is not arriving to primary injectors.

How did the car run before you installed new injectors?

[XfireZ51]

You say that when you have the POWER KEY in LOW power position, it does not start, but with the POWER KEY in FULL power, it DOES start.

This condition sounds like power for pulsewidth, which makes injectors deliver fuel, is not arriving to primary injectors.

How did the car run before you installed new injectors?

If the secondaries are pulsing, so are the primaries because the primaries drive the signal for firing the secondaries. Power of course comes from the secondary relays. The ECM powers the primaries.

[XfireZ51]

hello jerry, injector right position, I checked well.
in the picture, a zr1, a member of the forum, use the same injector

ZR,

Did ur friend need to re-do the injector rail mounting brackets?

[Schrade]

If the secondaries are pulsing, so are the primaries because the primaries drive the signal for firing the secondaries. Power of course comes from the secondary relays. The ECM powers the primaries.

I learn new stuff EVERY day!

What if a connection is reversed at the power key?

Is it possible that with a reversed connection, that the power key in 'FULL' mode, is energizing the circuit [s] as though the key WAS in NORMAL position???

---------------------------------------------------------------
zr-1.R1 - it should NOT have been necessary to fabricate the new mounting brackets.

What is the model number of the injectors that you have?

[A26B]

hello jerry, injector right position, I checked well.
in the picture, a zr1, a member of the forum, use the same injector

Would you please install one(1) primary injector and one (1) secondary injector into the injector housing without the fuel rail attached and take a photo so we can see where the injector is located when it is installed.

There is something wrong somewhere if you cannot use the correct fuel rail brackets.

[zr-1.R1]

the code number should be this in the photo below

[batchman]

I found the old injectors hard to pull out probably since the o-rings are so old. The new primaries "popped" in place with new o-rings, the new secondaries felt loose until the fuel rail clamped them down.

I suspect a different problem. It is easy to pinch the injector wiring or to have a connector not seated. I would try the ohm test on primary injectors to see if all are "happy" - if one is shorted it may be bad or wire pinched, if one is infinite it may not be plugged in all the way.

HTH,
- Jeff

[zr-1.R1]

tomorrow I dismount the car,I remove the plenum, run detailed photos, then put them on the forum.
I make a test with standard brackets, though I remain somewhat relieved the injectors, then I'll know