Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[Locobob]

Well I was posting some stuff in the Audio and Electronics section but it seems hardly anyone visits that section... plus I have acquired a serious case of "while I'm there" so things have gone way beyond just putting in a new stereo head so here we are with a new comprehensive thread.

Anyhow my current mod plans include:
Kenwood 470 stereo head unit
Back up camera
Switch panel in place of the forward cup holder
LED interior bulbs
Heated seats
Sound absorption interior foam
94+ door panels
New steering wheel
Carbon fiberish refinishing of dash panels

[Locobob]

Here is the new steering wheel: Momo Commando... hub kit wasn't in the box so I guess it is shipping separately.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg.html)

Matches the factory red fairly well... I think it has a little less orange in it
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0338.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0338.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Here is the sound deadening stuff from Vettenuts, it is pre-cut closed cell foam like stuff with foil backing - complete kit including doors - weighs almost nothing which is important to me.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0329.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0329.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Here is the switch panel I am putting together, it will be on/off for V1 radar detector with remote, gps hardwire, and the third switch is for later... not sure what just yet.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0303.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0303.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Here is the Kenwood H/U with PAC OEM-1 Bose adapter - going to try this with the Bose speakers for now and see how it works, also going to go ahead and pre-wire for an amp in case it doesn't work out so hot.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0339.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0339.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

I'm going to refinish all the dash plastic in carbon fiber look from American Hydrocarbon. I decided it would be a bit of a crime to alter the rare and in great condition power key bezel sooooo... I created a ZR-1 bezel to refinish using a base 91 bezel. This involved a few trips to the hardware store... mostly plastic and JB weld.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0340.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0340.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0341.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0341.jpg.html)

[Blue Flame Restorations]

What a great thread. This will be fun. I too, will be doing a radio this Winter.

Thanks for posting

[Locobob]

Perhaps some of you electrically savvy types can help me with a few things. I have the heated seat kit on the way, comes with switch so should just be a two wire install. Anyhow I have this unused connector under each seat which is for the sport seat lumbar and side bolsters - which I don't have. I think it will be perfect for the seat heaters.... except that it is always hot.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0313.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0313.jpg.html)

So I got to thinking... I could replace this connector with a relay - use the pink/black switched acc. wire to operate the relay and problem solved... seat heaters would be keyed power. The big orange coming in is on a 30amp breaker, the seat heaters use 3-5amps each. Then I got to thinking some more, perhaps I should also take power off this new relay for the switch panel I'm installing. I'm kinda concerned that the little 16 or 18 gauge pink/black wire is not going to like running both a radar detector, gps, third switch and operating the relay.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0330.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0330.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

What a great thread. This will be fun. I too, will be doing a radio this Winter.

Thanks for posting

Thanks, should be fun... haven't done a big walk-through thread in a while.

[mike100]

Eventually this will be a good reference on how-to to custom cobble a new power key bezel since they are a bit tough to source.

[-=Jeff=-]

Now I know what wheel I want.. How much was it?

[Locobob]

Now I know what wheel I want.. How much was it?

Crowders has them 10% off - list was like $295ish
It's a really nice wheel in person, high quality/feels great, the online pics don't really do it justice.

[rkreigh]

Here is the new steering wheel: Momo Commando... hub kit wasn't in the box so I guess it is shipping separately.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg.html)

Matches the factory red fairly well... I think it has a little less orange in it
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0338.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0338.jpg.html)


love that wheel! looking to go "mod red" in my 95 ZR-1 and this is the bomb. kinda hate giving up the air bag but like Ron White says

"make sure you hit something hard, I don't want to limp away from this"

the way I drive the air bag isn't gonna make much difference!

also thinking of "doing away" with the valet key switch and just use a plain old c4 piece. I don't have secondaries and can just throw it behind the valence piece.

let me know how well the carbon fiber wrap works. like to try that too.

[-=Jeff=-]

Perhaps some of you electrically savvy types can help me with a few things. I have the heated seat kit on the way, comes with switch so should just be a two wire install. Anyhow I have this unused connector under each seat which is for the sport seat lumbar and side bolsters - which I don't have. I think it will be perfect for the seat heaters.... except that it is always hot.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0313.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0313.jpg.html)

So I got to thinking... I could replace this connector with a relay - use the pink/black switched acc. wire to operate the relay and problem solved... seat heaters would be keyed power. The big orange coming in is on a 30amp breaker, the seat heaters use 3-5amps each. Then I got to thinking some more, perhaps I should also take power off this new relay for the switch panel I'm installing. I'm kinda concerned that the little 16 or 18 gauge pink/black wire is not going to like running both a radar detector, gps, third switch and operating the relay.


The pink/black should be fine to operate the relay as all it is doing is energizing a coil to close the contacts for the heavier wires, What I would do is run the pink/black to each heater switch to power it then run the switch to the relay, use the relay is the switch to the heating element

quick and dirty diagram:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19662692/quick%20pic.png

[GOLDCYLON]

I like the heated seat approach Robert especially where you live you need it. I went old school with custom sheepskins it does the job for me in AZ.

I agree on the bezel as unmolested ones are HTF. I had the luxury of being able to carbon fiber mine as it was already trimed for the radio. If mine had not been pre cut using a stock one for your project just makes sense.

are you going with the hidden V1 display in the DIC? One of my best modding decisions and I know Andrew would still make you one. Any thoughts on the orange selfdimming LED compass mirror? You can see the hidden V1 display in my picture below with the rubber reset button and the bottom of the compass mirror

GC

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l498/goldcylon/166_zps29c79ca3.jpg

[-=Jeff=-]

Locobob,

could you take a picture of the new wheel over the OEM wheel? I would like to see the size difference..

[Locobob]

Locobob,

could you take a picture of the new wheel over the OEM wheel? I would like to see the size difference..

The new wheel is 350mm or a bit under 14in, you can see that the center section is much less bulky so viewing the center cluster ought to be easier - currently with my wheel in the up position the bottom of the display is blocked a little.
Ron - I'm not too concerned about losing the airbag... it's 20+ years old so who knows if it even works anymore not to mention that airbag technology in the early 90's wasn't exactly stellar to begin with.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0349.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0349.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

The pink/black should be fine to operate the relay as all it is doing is energizing a coil to close the contacts for the heavier wires, What I would do is run the pink/black to each heater switch to power it then run the switch to the relay, use the relay is the switch to the heating element

quick and dirty diagram:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19662692/quick%20pic.png

Quick and dirty? I'll show you quick and dirty lol... this is what I was envisioning.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG.jpg.html)

I'm looking at 8a 145-0

My thought was to use the lumbar circuit to provide power for all the accessories around the center console since its a much bigger wire than the little pink/black acc wire. Any reason this is a bad idea???

[Locobob]

Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these metal clips? They are broken off on my replacement bezel.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0347.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0347.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Working on getting my head unit lined up with the bezel, its kind of a pain in the *** since you can only get to one on the bracket screws without pulling the unit out of the dash. Basically its adjust bracket, slide into dash, put on bezel, note what direction things need to go, pull out, adjust bracket, repeat. I'm using the Metra install kit 99-3051, the brackets are plastic which isn't great but I think it'll work.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0345.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0345.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0343.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0343.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

are you going with the hidden V1 display in the DIC? One of my best modding decisions and I know Andrew would still make you one. Any thoughts on the orange selfdimming LED compass mirror? You can see the hidden V1 display in my picture below with the rubber reset button and the bottom of the compass mirror

GC



Yeah I'm leaning that way on the V1 display, I bought a spare DIC to mod - just looks to be a matter of cutting out some plastic in the back. I've also kicked around putting it in the RV mirror or just leaving it in the vent above the DIC... decisions decisions. One thing that crossed my mind is that with no air bag and no low tire warning I don't have all that many warning lights left. If I attached some wires to the DIC circuit board I could take those remaining warning lights and move them to the unused areas in the gauge cluster - I could then chop off the screen portion of the DIC and put a GPS in its place. Hmmmm

[-=Jeff=-]

Quick and dirty? I'll show you quick and dirty lol... this is what I was envisioning.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG.jpg.html)

I'm looking at 8a 145-0

My thought was to use the lumbar circuit to provide power for all the accessories around the center console since its a much bigger wire than the little pink/black acc wire. Any reason this is a bad idea???
That should work just fine.. Might want to fuse them though, not sure if lumbar was a fuse or breaker

[Locobob]

That should work just fine.. Might want to fuse them though, not sure if lumbar was a fuse or breaker

Lumbar is on a 30 amp breaker, looking at the fuse block details on 8a -11 -7 it looks like three things are run off this breaker (PWR ACCY): power door locks (with a 15amp fuse), power seat switches (direct), and power sport seat functions (direct). And yes inline fuses are a great idea, the V1 already has one. My rationale behind doing it this way is that it creates a pretty clean power distribution center for 5 different things which are all close together. How did you do that nice looking diagram by the way? Is there a program that does that?

[-=Jeff=-]

That was one with Paint.. Lol

I have used Visio before as well

[Locobob]

Been mainly working on getting the insulation kit installed for the last few days, it's a big job because everything in the interior has to come out. The Vettenuts pre-cut kit has been pretty good so far, I have had to make a few alterations here and there but having the basic shapes pre-cut is a nice time saver.

Here is the rear cargo area with floor, back wall, and wheel housing pieces installed. You can see the two holes I made for wiring in the driver seat back wall and also the hole in the center rear of the cargo area. I installed rubber grommets to protect the wires. The hole on the right side of the picture is for the electric exhaust cut out valves and the red wire is power for the back-up camera. The left hole will be for RCA wires: video for back up cam and 6 channels for a possible future stand alone amp.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0353.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0353.jpg.html)

Pass. side floor and sill
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0356.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0356.jpg.html)

Pass. side floor and tunnel. The wires you see are for the rear mounted battery, they will sandwich between the two insulation layers and tuck up against the tunnel.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0359.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0359.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

The pre-cut trans tunnel sides don't quite meet at the top.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0362.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0362.jpg.html)

So I used some of the extra material provided and filled in the gaps, hopefully this won't cause any clearance issues, I don't think it will since the material is quite thin and compressible.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0367.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0367.jpg.html)

The pre-cut piece for the seat back wall was one piece and taller than it need to be, I cut it in half in order to make it easier to work with and trimmed a good bit off the top.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0365.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0365.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0369.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0369.jpg.html)

When putting the drivers side foot-well carpet back in don't forget to tuck it under this plastic piece which serves to keep it from getting into the accelerator pedal. This piece of plastic is a bitch - it's held on by two screws (easy) and a plastic body rivet which is just an absolute pain.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0372.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0372.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

My steering wheel hub kit finally showed up. I decided to go with the NRG quick release hub - figured being able to quickly remove the steering wheel will come in handy at times. Here is the NRG quick release and "short" hub, together they are 4in tall, adding the Momo wheel the whole assembly is about 5 1/2 which should put it fairly close to where the stock wheel sits. If I decide I want to come out further I think I will just buy a spacer which mounts between the wheel and the quick release - the spacer will come off with the wheel and a part of the quick release as a single unit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0373.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0373.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

So what colors are you changing on the interior

I know that panel by the accelerator all too well

[Locobob]

So what colors are you changing on the interior

I know that panel by the accelerator all too well


Just adding a little red to the all black, door panels, hush panels, and steering wheel.

[tf95ZR1]

Hidden V1 display. It will fit.......

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd335/tf95ZR-1/ZR1V1.jpg

Before I had all the interior pieces Am HC carbon fiber covered. Too shiny
for me to photograph

[WVZR-1]

My steering wheel hub kit finally showed up. I decided to go with the NRG quick release hub - figured being able to quickly remove the steering wheel will come in handy at times. Here is the NRG quick release and "short" hub, together they are 4in tall, adding the Momo wheel the whole assembly is about 5 1/2 which should put it fairly close to where the stock wheel sits. If I decide I want to come out further I think I will just buy a spacer which mounts between the wheel and the quick release - the spacer will come off with the wheel and a part of the quick release as a single unit.

How does the diameter of the hub and release compare to the diameter of the steering column ignition switch housing?

[Locobob]

Hidden V1 display. It will fit.......

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd335/tf95ZR-1/ZR1V1.jpg

Before I had all the interior pieces Am HC carbon fiber covered. Too shiny
for me to photograph

Looks pretty clean Ted, only thing I don't like about putting the remote down there is that it is too far out of line of sight. I didn't know that you did the Am HC, how do you like it? Hopefully it wears well.

[Locobob]

How does the diameter of the hub and release compare to the diameter of the steering column ignition switch housing?

They appear to be pretty close, I will get some pics once I get it installed.

[Locobob]

So today I decided to switch gears and work on the steering wheel install. The Momo instructions kind of suck and NRG doesn't even give you any. Anyhow I was looking at all this stuff and couldn't figure out where everything went so I called Crowder and got things cleared up real fast... bottom line is that you don't use all the stuff, some of it is for different applications.

Here is the steering wheel torn down - just need to go rent a puller. It was pretty easy to get it to this point, well once I figured out that the two screws holding the cover on were T30's grrrr hard to see down in those screw holes. I will probably just cut the airbag wire at the connector under the dash and pull the whole thing out from the front so it doesn't get tangled up with stuff. The shaft nut is a 13/16, couldn't find that socket in my tool box and was about to add it to my shopping list.... then I realized that 13/16 is a spark plug size... Duh.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0376.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0376.jpg.html)

Here is the stuff that you do NOT need when putting a Momo Commando wheel on a NRG quick release.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0377.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0377.jpg.html)

Base of the quick release and short hub. The ground wire comes off the QR and connects to the hub wire which just grounds through the hub to the shaft. Yellow (pos) wire will snake through the hub opening and connect to the factory horn wire.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0378.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0378.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Quick release hub showing the contacts for the horn.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0380.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0380.jpg.html)

This split ring is the adapter for fitting the Momo horn button to the NRG QR, it just slips down inside the QR and allows the tabs on the horn button to latch on to something. The horn wiring is pretty obvious here... only problem is that both grounds have a male spade so will need to put a female connector on the wire side.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0381.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0381.jpg.html)

Here the adapter ring is installed.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0382.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0382.jpg.html)

[WVZR-1]

I will probably just cut the airbag wire at the connector under the dash and pull the whole thing out from the front so it doesn't get tangled up with stuff.

I don't believe you should have issues with the excess wire and the airbag connector at the top of the column(you should be able to just coil it and tie it) and you might actually need that for the canceling cam to sync with BUT if you do want to or need to do something with the column harness there should be no reason to cut it. It should "fish" up the column easily for removal. Did you get a 2 Ohm resistor yet to defeat the SIR light in the DIC or did you just remove the bulb?

[Schrade]

love that wheel! looking to go "mod red" in my 95 ZR-1 and this is the bomb. kinda hate giving up the air bag but like Ron White says

"make sure you hit something hard, I don't want to limp away from this"

the way I drive the air bag isn't gonna make much difference!

also thinking of "doing away" with the valet key switch and just use a plain old c4 piece. I don't have secondaries and can just throw it behind the valence piece.

let me know how well the carbon fiber wrap works. like to try that too.

Nifty work on the toggle switches!

But I surely gotta' dis-agree with Mr. White on his air bag rationale; I hit one in a head-on - 55-0 in 0, NO EXAGGERATION, ALL ON THE POLICE REPORT, AND I LIMP, FOR LIFE (about 14.5 G's negative). Unlike the drinker tho', who's been recycled for 7 years now... :(

Just make sure you're @ 55+.......

[Locobob]

I don't believe you should have issues with the excess wire and the airbag connector at the top of the column(you should be able to just coil it and tie it) and you might actually need that for the canceling cam to sync with BUT if you do want to or need to do something with the column harness there should be no reason to cut it. It should "fish" up the column easily for removal. Did you get a 2 Ohm resistor yet to defeat the SIR light in the DIC or did you just remove the bulb?

Well there might be room, can't see yet. I just got the wheel off and now I'm trying to figure out how the SIR coil comes out. Is there any advantage to using a resistor? I have the DIC off so pulling the bulb seems like the easiest route if one is as good as the other.

[Locobob]

Aha... little spring clip around the shaft I didn't notice. Here is the coil pulled out, not really seeing any way to remove this thing without cutting the connector off the wire under the dash (visible in background) and then pulling it out through the column.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0383.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0383.jpg.html)

[tf95ZR1]

Looks pretty clean Ted, only thing I don't like about putting the remote down there is that it is too far out of line of sight. I didn't know that you did the Am HC, how do you like it? Hopefully it wears well.

I turn the V1 sound up all the way, so when it goes off it scares the *)@# out of me and I lift off the gas.
Then I look down to see if the source is in front of me or behind. The bigger issue is where to put the main unit.
It gets too hot on the dash.
I did the Am HC (Pat Scorzetti in FL.) in 2008. I HAD to do something because the "rubber" was lifting off.
I think I mailed him 9 pieces. I like it and it's VERY easy to clean. I'll try to find or take some pictures.
I'm anxiously waiting to see your final interior pictures. Did you take any "safety precautions" dealing with the air bags?

[Locobob]

I turn the V1 sound up all the way, so when it goes off it scares the *)@# out of me and I lift off the gas.
Then I look down to see if the source is in front of me or behind. The bigger issue is where to put the main unit.
It gets too hot on the dash.
I did the Am HC (Pat Scorzetti in FL.) in 2008. I HAD to do something because the "rubber" was lifting off.
I think I mailed him 9 pieces. I like it and it's VERY easy to clean. I'll try to find or take some pictures.
I'm anxiously waiting to see your final interior pictures. Did you take any "safety precautions" dealing with the air bags?

I installed my V1 main unit on the halo, made a bracket that surrounds it and attaches to the halo trim panel just behind and centered between the seats. That way its up high and is relatively unobstructed in all directions. Of course I no longer have the original windshield, if you do it will cut your signal strength a fair amount not utilizing the "radar window".

For the steering wheel pull I disconnected the battery and unplugged the SIR harness under the dash. I removed the module carefully and avoided placing myself in front of it.

[Locobob]

Well I snipped the SIR wire, couldn't see how it was going to come out otherwise short of doing a good bit of column disassembly. On to the next problem.... the horn connection is not looking good.
The horn wire is attached to a spring which fits into the white plastic tube in the column and is held in place by a black plastic cylinder with a nub on it that locks into a notch in the white plastic tube. The spring assembly holds the wire to the contact while allowing it to rotate at the same time. I put a female connector on the wire.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0384.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0384.jpg.html)

Well here is the hub in place and just for illustration I fed the horn wire through the window, if you look closely you can see the black plastic tube is also in the window... which of course turns when you turn the wheel..... not good.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0385.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0385.jpg.html)

Another view showing the inside of the hub... note the thick area around the splines and then the close proximity of the white tube to the splines.... hmmm this is not going to work. I could cut the black tube down so that it is flush with the white tube and it will still lock in place but I'm not sure that is going to be enough. I'm not sure the white tube itself is going to clear once I tighten the hub all the way down.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0386.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0386.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Here you can see the NRG hub matches up pretty well with the factory stuff. Measuring from the apex of the gauge housing it is 5 1/2 inches to the back of the Momo wheel, the factory wheel measured right at 6 inches. Since I'd rather have the wheel closer than stock I'm going to look into spacers - probably something around 1in thick would do the trick.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0388.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0388.jpg.html)

Gauge view looks good and unobstructed
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0390.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0390.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

Thanks for the pictures.. I might be going through this over the winter too..

I just realized that having the QR wheel might make it easier for working under the dash on the Driver side too, when needed

[WVZR-1]

Well there might be room, can't see yet. I just got the wheel off and now I'm trying to figure out how the SIR coil comes out. Is there any advantage to using a resistor? I have the DIC off so pulling the bulb seems like the easiest route if one is as good as the other.

The "fishing" would have required the removal of the lock-plate and loosening the turn signal switch. I thought the fishing might be of interest to maintain a 100% SIR coil for maybe resale or what-ever. If you left considerable wire on the connector it can be spliced. It's I believe an accepted procedure when the correct splices are used.

The advantage of using the resistor is the DIC still does a correct "bulb check" and it also turns out the "fasten belts" ICON/warning in the cluster. With your cluster exposed you might just remove that bulb also!

[Schrade]

The "fishing" would have required the removal of the lock-plate and loosening the turn signal switch. I thought the fishing might be of interest to maintain a 100% SIR coil for maybe resale or what-ever. If you left considerable wire on the connector it can be spliced. It's I believe an accepted procedure when the correct splices are used.

The advantage of using the resistor is the DIC still does a correct "bulb check" and it also turns out the "fasten belts" ICON/warning in the cluster. With your cluster exposed you might just remove that bulb also!

Knowledgebase Dave...

Good points... http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Locobob]

Another shot of the steering wheel and hub, I decided I want it out further so I ordered a 1in spacer - while I'm waiting for it to show up hopefully I will come up with a plan for the horn.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0399.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0399.jpg.html)

This one is for you Ted - halo mounted V1
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0402.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0402.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Back to wiring stuff, I ran the 6 channel RCA's (for possible future use, i.e. an amp) and the back-up cam video line along the path of the radio antenna.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0393.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0393.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0396.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0396.jpg.html)

This thing is really in the way
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0394.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0394.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Got my one inch spacer and finished the wheel install. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I was playing with the horn wire a while back, think I got mixed up about what turns and what doesn't... anyhow didn't really need to change anything with the horn.

These two little plastic tabs at the top of the steering column need to be trimmed back.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0439.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0439.jpg.html)

Hub, spacer and quick release installed. The spacer can also mount between the wheel and the quick release but I thought it made more sense putting it on the column side of the QR.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0440.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0440.jpg.html)

Wheel all done.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0442.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0442.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Also finished up my back-up cam install. At first I was just going to hole-saw the license plate frame but it is not perpendicular to the road - its got a pretty good angle that would have resulted in a nice view of the sky and not so much the road. So I carved a little bracket out of aluminum that can be bent fairly easily to adjust the view angle. It mounts between the bumper cover and the license plate light and uses the existing screws so it could be completely reversed if needed - no permanent modification here........ not that it matters on my car which is one big permanent mod anyhow lol.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0408.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0408.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0413.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0413.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0443.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0443.jpg.html)

[tf95ZR1]

Boy Robert,
You have quite the 007 mobile!

[cvette98pacecar]

Very nice. At some point this winter I have to remove the dynapad from the Purple Aerobody.

[GOLDCYLON]

Very nice. At some point this winter I have to remove the dynapad from the Purple Aerobody.

Why?

[cvette98pacecar]

Why?

It added about 150 pounds to the weight of the car and did not reduce any noise.

[FU]

Robert , Are you refering to Dynamat ? It's tar on one side with a thin sheet of aluminum on the other side ?

[cvette98pacecar]

Robert , Are you refering to Dynamat ? It's tar on one side with a thin sheet of aluminum on the other side ?

No, The Dynamat is in permanently. The Dynapad is coming out.

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-21100-DynaPad-Non-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001KM5IZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384275987&sr=8-1&keywords=dynapad

[XfireZ51]

LB,

What are u using for the backup cam and bracket? Since I will be tearing apart my interior here shortly, I have input for back up cam on my Pioneer that I could take advantage of.

[GOLDCYLON]

No, The Dynamat is in permanently. The Dynapad is coming out.

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-21100-DynaPad-Non-Adhesive-Deadener/dp/B001KM5IZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384275987&sr=8-1&keywords=dynapad


Thats what I was thinking as well that tar would be a huge mess and a huge project to atempt to pull out. This clears that up

[GOLDCYLON]

LB,

What are u using for the backup cam and bracket? Since I will be tearing apart my interior here shortly, I have input for back up cam on my Pioneer that I could take advantage of.


My camera is in my rear license plate frame. Been running 5 years now its a BOYO. Just another idea it has night vision as well

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l498/goldcylon/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/goldcylon/media/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

I was thinking of this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882184644

[tf95ZR1]

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l498/goldcylon/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/goldcylon/media/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg.html)

Hey GC!
JMHO, Z looks GREAT (without the wing)!
And BTW, why do you guys need to know what's behind you?
Don't the Italian racers ceremoniously rip away their rear view mirrors?
"I don't care what's behind me, only what's in front!"
:)

[GOLDCYLON]

Hey GC!
JMHO, Z looks GREAT (without the wing)!
And BTW, why do you guys need to know what's behind you?
Don't the Italian racers ceremoniously rip away their rear view mirrors?
"I don't care what's behind me, only what's in front!"
:)

So I can watch objects in rear......losing ;)

[Locobob]

So I can watch objects in rear......losing ;)

Exactly! :D

[Locobob]

Boy Robert,
You have quite the 007 mobile!

Wait til you see some of the other goodies I have planned.

My name is Bob.... Loco, Bob

[Locobob]

LB,

What are u using for the backup cam and bracket? Since I will be tearing apart my interior here shortly, I have input for back up cam on my Pioneer that I could take advantage of.

My back-up cam is just a cheap Boss cam22, I wasn't willing to commit a lot of dough to this part of the project. I made the bracket out of L shaped aluminum from Ace Hardware.

[Locobob]

Haven't made any progress for the last week, major dental issue took the wind right out of my sails :( Anyhow hope to start working on it again soon.

The head unit has a "reverse" wire that acts as a trigger for the back-up camera when the transmission is placed in reverse. Anyone have experience with this... what is the easiest way to hook it up?

Also is there a convenient ground under the dash somewhere... besides splicing into an existing wire?

[-=Jeff=-]

probably off of the Reverse light switch will be the 'best' way

[Locobob]

probably off of the Reverse light switch will be the 'best' way

Yes but where can I find it and tap in easily? The diagram shows a LT green wire coming off the switch and going to the back up lamps but it doesn't show where this wire runs, physically in the car. I'd rather not string a new wire all the way to the rear.

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes but where can I find it and tap in easily? The diagram shows a LT green wire coming off the switch and going to the back up lamps but it doesn't show where this wire runs, physically in the car. I'd rather not string a new wire all the way to the rear.

Sneak it through the boot on the side by the shifter

[mike100]

My camera is in my rear license plate frame. Been running 5 years now its a BOYO. Just another idea it has night vision as well

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l498/goldcylon/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg (http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/goldcylon/media/photo3_zps2cb15a3f.jpg.html)

looks good sans wing, but now I just figured out why you are rocking those louvers. You could say it is for the summer rays in PHX, but i know the real reason now::-D
http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100322095012/galacticafanon/images/5/56/Cylon_War_Era_Raider.jpg
http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=T7Jv1uAt3TUcfM&tbnid=UP2ENVxPSH3B-M:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tombsofkobol.com%2Fbsg%2Fbsg-raider-model-01.html&ei=BSyMUoO8DMna2QXgw4H4CA&bvm=bv.56643336,d.b2I&psig=AFQjCNHcU4dxXsrKL1jmnD0kA0fZaQaGSg&ust=1385004359522317

[-=Jeff=-]

LMAO @ mike

that was good

[WVZR-1]

Haven't made any progress for the last week, major dental issue took the wind right out of my sails :( Anyhow hope to start working on it again soon.

The head unit has a "reverse" wire that acts as a trigger for the back-up camera when the transmission is placed in reverse. Anyone have experience with this... what is the easiest way to hook it up?

Also is there a convenient ground under the dash somewhere... besides splicing into an existing wire?

You should be able to catch the BU lamp LTGRN at either C209 @ the lower side of the IP on the right OR @ C401 which is at the RH halo I believe in the vicinity of where the CHMSL connection is made from the ABS unit etc. Top of RH seat vicinity.

[GOLDCYLON]

looks good sans wing, but now I just figured out why you are rocking those louvers. You could say it is for the summer rays in PHX, but i know the real reason now::-D
http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20100322095012/galacticafanon/images/5/56/Cylon_War_Era_Raider.jpg
http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=T7Jv1uAt3TUcfM&tbnid=UP2ENVxPSH3B-M:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tombsofkobol.com%2Fbsg%2Fbsg-raider-model-01.html&ei=BSyMUoO8DMna2QXgw4H4CA&bvm=bv.56643336,d.b2I&psig=AFQjCNHcU4dxXsrKL1jmnD0kA0fZaQaGSg&ust=1385004359522317

Yep no argument :cheers:

[Locobob]

You should be able to catch the BU lamp LTGRN at either C209 @ the lower side of the IP on the right OR @ C401 which is at the RH halo I believe in the vicinity of where the CHMSL connection is made from the ABS unit etc. Top of RH seat vicinity.

Ah now that sounds much better than jacking the car and trying to squeeze up to the switch which appears to be near the bell-housing. I'll poke around and see if I can find it. If not then perhaps I will just run another wire along the back-up cam route since I can readily see and access the LT green wire through the license plate hole. :cheers:

[chriskinzel]

When I installed my back-up camera, I used a extra wire with the camera wire. Hooked it up at the back-up light, behind the license plate. Haven't looked back since. Or have I? I'm confused.:cool:

[Locobob]

So I think I have found the easiest route to connect the reverse wire off the head unit to the back-up light circuit. Here it is under the passenger dash, this should be C209 as it matches the connector description in the FSM electrical supplement.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0448.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0448.jpg.html)

The back-up lamp circuit is a LT green wire, at first I was a little confused since there are two wires here which appear to be LT green but another look at the FSM indicated its terminal F on C209 so it should be the one at the top of the pic.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0445.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0445.jpg.html)

I probably could have run a wire all the way back to the reverse lamps in less time but by doing this research I found a super close spot to plug in and also learned a lot about the FSM in the process - thanks WVZR-1 :cheers:

[Schrade]

So I think I have found the easiest route to connect the reverse wire off the head unit to the back-up light circuit. Here it is under the passenger dash, this should be C209 as it matches the connector description in the FSM electrical supplement.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0448.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0448.jpg.html)

The back-up lamp circuit is a LT green wire, at first I was a little confused since there are two wires here which appear to be LT green but another look at the FSM indicated its terminal F on C209 so it should be the one at the top of the pic.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0445.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0445.jpg.html)

I probably could have run a wire all the way back to the reverse lamps in less time but by doing this research I found a super close spot to plug in and also learned a lot about the FSM in the process - thanks WVZR-1 :cheers:

That's good work http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif Where IS the line tap? Can't actually see it there...

And learning to follow schematics in FSM is good brainwork too. Makes for good systemic and cognitive processes!

[Locobob]

That's good work http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif Where IS the line tap? Can't actually see it there...

And learning to follow schematics in FSM is good brainwork too. Makes for good systemic and cognitive processes!

Its not there yet, probably get that done today.

[GOLDCYLON]

Bob sorry I missed you latest post however if you have a Varible Speed Sensor wire on your head unit the VSS wire is the Forrest Green Wire with the White Stipe off the Bose factory radio harness. Normally you need this wire if you have a NAV unit and dont want to rely on dead reackoning. D

[Locobob]

Bob sorry I missed you latest post however if you have a Varible Speed Sensor wire on your head unit the VSS wire is the Forrest Green Wire with the White Stipe off the Bose factory radio harness. Normally you need this wire if you have a NAV unit and dont want to rely on dead reackoning. D

My head unit does not have NAV, going to do that separately

[Locobob]

Turned the power back on for the first time to do some testing and things are looking pretty good. New radio fired up, antenna went up, sound from all speakers. Didn't try the camera yet, need to read up on the stereo menu and make the reverse wire connection still. Also need to connect the radio "parking circuit" wire to ground - this is supposed to tie into the parking circuit to prevent video from being played while on the move but I was told you can just run it to ground to bypass the nanny crap. Interior LED's look good - much brighter and crisper than stock. Only failure was the horn button didn't work.... not sure what I missed there.... hmmm not sure I really care either lol

[Locobob]

I found this while poking around http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml anyone have any experience with this?

[tomcat]

:thumbsup: Sounds Nice!!!!!!

Manfred E...........
91 #906

[Locobob]

One more issue I ran into is that the PAC adapter harness is too short, not sure how I am going to mount the box as it is pretty much stretched out and the adapter box just kinda hangs from tension right outside the radio bezel and wont tuck away into the lower dash like I would like it to. Anyone else have experience with installing a PAC oem-1? Wonder if they make a extension wire?

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0449.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0449.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Here is the tunnel wiring - the two sets of 3 RCA's are for possible future stereo use, they are currently not connected to anything but will save me from having to dismantle the interior again if I decide to go aftermarket amp/speakers. The wire tails you see coming out next to the shifter are for the panel of 3 toggle switches I made. Red is power from the relay to the switches, Black ground for switches, and the others are outs from the switches to the various accessories they control.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0450.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0450.jpg.html)

Relay and fuse holder under console converts 12g always hot into switched source of power for both seat heaters and switch panel accessory functions. Also spliced into the pink/black switched power that activates the relay for a couple of other low amp functions.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0451.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0451.jpg.html)

[GOLDCYLON]

Another idea Robert while you are there. Your 91 has an assy wire behind the fx3 switch. Would be a great time to hard line and mount a 12v power socket in there. Going off memory it's a white and orange wire or did you use that to feed the seat heaters?

[XfireZ51]

Another idea Robert while you are there. Your 91 has an assy wire behind the fx3 switch. Would be a great time to hard line and mount a 12v power socket in there. Going off memory it's a white and orange wire or did you use that to feed the seat heaters?

I used that to provide switched power for my ZT-2 Wide Band.

[Locobob]

Another idea Robert while you are there. Your 91 has an assy wire behind the fx3 switch. Would be a great time to hard line and mount a 12v power socket in there. Going off memory it's a white and orange wire or did you use that to feed the seat heaters?

There are actually 3 wires for accessory use tucked under the console. I am using two of them currently:
The pink/black is keyed hot - using to activate relay and also to power exhaust cut-outs
Black ground - ground for relay and maybe something else
Orange is always hot - currently not in use but could do a power socket on this, perhaps under the seat like the later C4's

I really need to make a new wiring diagram of all this and stick it in my FSM, already forgetting what is hooked up to what.

[Locobob]

Just got off the phone with PAC - they don't make an extension harness but they did tell me the connectors are made by Molex. Sooooo looks like its either undo all my radio connections and redo them or try to source the Molex connectors and build my own extension harness - currently the wires at the head unit are twisted together into closed end connectors which resist pull-out but overlap a good deal of wire length, I could probably gain 3-4 inches by switching to butt connectors... but I kinda hate to use those as they are prone to pull-out.... hmmm

[USAZR1]

Did you ever figure out why the horn doesn't work? I installed a Momo Apache 350mm wheel in my former 90 Z and the horn never did work,either. Might be buying that car back soon and it would be nice to have a working horn again.
Also,I like that thicker spacer to move the wheel out further than mine did. That will have to be changed.

I wish I had some of the electrical knowledge some of you have. Am able to do lots of stuff but that part of my resume is really lacking.

[Schrade]

There are actually 3 wires for accessory use tucked under the console. I am using two of them currently:
The pink/black is keyed hot - using to activate relay and also to power exhaust cut-outs
Black ground - ground for relay and maybe something else
Orange is always hot - currently not in use but could do a power socket on this, perhaps under the seat like the later C4's

I really need to make a new wiring diagram of all this and stick it in my FSM, already forgetting what is hooked up to what.

This is ALWAYS a good idea.

I told this to the counterman at the speed shop that did my electronic auto conversion - that I was going to de-compile the work, for that very reason.

He kept it a secret from the wrenches. THEIR work confirmed it ... :rolleyes:

[XfireZ51]

Just got off the phone with PAC - they don't make an extension harness but they did tell me the connectors are made by Molex. Sooooo looks like its either undo all my radio connections and redo them or try to source the Molex connectors and build my own extension harness - currently the wires at the head unit are twisted together into closed end connectors which resist pull-out but overlap a good deal of wire length, I could probably gain 3-4 inches by switching to butt connectors... but I kinda hate to use those as they are prone to pull-out.... hmmm

Bob,

Use shrink tubing over the butt connectors to keep them from pulling out. I haven't had any issue with the "bullet" type butt connectors. They fit really snug.
Takes a bit of a yank to pull them out.

[-=Jeff=-]

newark or digikey should have the molex connectors and pins

[Locobob]

Well I haven't made much progress in the last month or two - life gave me a couple of hard kicks to the nuts. I did get my dash trim stuff back from American Hydrocarbon and it looks super. Nice piano black like finish with a subtle carbon weave pattern, just what I was looking for.
Anyhow I've had some time to think about stuff and I've been thinking a lot about the seats. Currently I have base model seats out of a 94-96 with power tracks. I find them comfy and pretty supportive but the leather quality on them is pretty poor. I'm a bit of a weight nazi so I decided to see where they fall - bathroom scale so not super exact....

Power track only = 15lbs
Seat without track = 20lbs
Seat with power track = 35lbs

So I started thinking... how often do I really use the power seat adjustments... almost never... wonder how much weight I could save with manual tracks? Anyone know what a factory manual track weighs? Are they the same height? Perhaps I could gain a little headroom as an added bonus. Another idea I had was finding a low profile aftermarket track and modifying it to fit.
Also thought about going full aftermarket with something like the Recaro Pole Position... looks cool, very supportive, a tad lighter than factory... on the downside it is probably less comfortable for daily use, be harder to get in and out of, and I'd lose the back adjustment.

[scottfab]

Well I haven't made much progress in the last month or two - life gave me a couple of hard kicks to the nuts. ...snip....

Hang in Bob, we all get those times. It's a new year and we now have
the weather here in the NW to do car work.
Jump on it :dancing

[USAZR1]

I've been following this thread for awhile. Glad to see you back on it,Robert.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Well I haven't made much progress in the last month or two - life gave me a couple of hard kicks to the nuts. I did get my dash trim stuff back from American Hydrocarbon and it looks super. Nice piano black like finish with a subtle carbon weave pattern, just what I was looking for.
Anyhow I've had some time to think about stuff and I've been thinking a lot about the seats. Currently I have base model seats out of a 94-96 with power tracks. I find them comfy and pretty supportive but the leather quality on them is pretty poor. I'm a bit of a weight nazi so I decided to see where they fall - bathroom scale so not super exact....

Power track only = 15lbs
Seat without track = 20lbs
Seat with power track = 35lbs

So I started thinking... how often do I really use the power seat adjustments... almost never... wonder how much weight I could save with manual tracks? Anyone know what a factory manual track weighs? Are they the same height? Perhaps I could gain a little headroom as an added bonus. Another idea I had was finding a low profile aftermarket track and modifying it to fit.
Also thought about going full aftermarket with something like the Recaro Pole Position... looks cool, very supportive, a tad lighter than factory... on the downside it is probably less comfortable for daily use, be harder to get in and out of, and I'd lose the back adjustment.

Hey Robert,

I hope things look up for you in 2014 and glad to see your updates. I'm in the process of replacing seats myself and so far looking at Corbeau A4s (have harness bar/brackets), but still researching harnesses. I think you can find a lot of information on CF about the standard C4 manual/stuff. We have such a narrow area to work with in our cabin that makes it difficult. I'm heading to Tokyo Auto Salon tomorrow (SEMA of Japan) and will try out seats and measurements but mostly Bride and Recaro here (an expensive), but I'll see what other manufacturers show up. I think I still want the reclining option, but I know I can save some weight with a fixed seat. Best wishes!:cheers:

[Pete]

Bob I have the OE slide tracks they don't weigh all that much maybe 3-4 lbs been a while since I did this, have not missed the power seats.
On the clearance I don't know since I'm not that tall and have the clear top.

At first I went with Corbeau seats but after I gutted my stock 1991 seats and installed factory sliders got rid of the switches and wires they came within a few lbs of the Corbeaus with the Corbeau tracks/slides so now I have the factory/sleeper look.

You mention the 1994-1996 seats weigh 20 lbs heck I might save a few more lbs by going to the newer seats.:dancing

Pete

Hey Dominic weigh your stock seat when you get a chance.

[XfireZ51]

Bob I have the OE slide tracks they don't weigh all that much maybe 3-4 lbs been a while since I did this, have not missed the power seats.
On the clearance I don't know since I'm not that tall and have the clear top.

At first I went with Corbeau seats but after I gutted my stock 1991 seats and installed factory sliders got rid of the switches and wires they came within a few lbs of the Corbeaus with the Corbeau tracks/slides so now I have the factory/sleeper look.

You mention the 1994-1996 seats weigh 20 lbs heck I might save a few more lbs by going to the newer seats.:dancing

Pete

Hey Dominic weigh your stock seat when you get a chance.

Pete,

I can do that tomorrow.

LB,

How about using an 84 seat?

[Locobob]

The Recaro Pole Positions are one of the lightest (streetable) seats at about 15lbs, also found some interesting options designed for the new Lotus cars which should fit since Lotus's are small. I believe the Pole Position is OEM for some of Porsche's more edgy 911's. The problem I see with most of these pseudo racing seats is that they tend to have extensive fixed side bolsters which are going to get worn quickly from getting in and out and they may be a little tight and get annoying for longer trips - also they tend to have somewhat thin padding.

So.... I think what I'm going to do here is stick with the seats I have, they are really comfy for long trips and they really don't have much of a weight penalty. I can have them re-covered in some fancier custom leather, add some harness slots, and maybe even add a little extra foam padding in some key areas for more support. For weight reduction I can switch to manual tracks which should save about 20lbs total. I also have a heated seat kit to install so if I ditch the power seat controls I can fab up some switch plates for the seat heaters and put them next to the FX3 controller.

[Locobob]

So Pete.... I gotta know.... did you drill lightening holes in your seat brackets??? :D

[XfireZ51]

Ok Gentlemen,

Just weighed the stock seats. 32#@.

[Locobob]

Ok Gentlemen,

Just weighed the stock seats. 32#@.

Stock sport seat?... with no track?... what year?

[Locobob]

Made a little bit of progress... got this back together

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0464.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0464.jpg.html)

[XfireZ51]

Stock sport seat?... with no track?... what year?

92 ZR-1 Stock Sport Seats. Just the way you pull it out of the car.

[Schrade]

Made a little bit of progress... got this back together

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0464.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0464.jpg.html)

That's great work!

How do you get the lettering back on top of the coating?

[GOLDCYLON]

That's great work!

How do you get the lettering back on top of the coating?

Looks to be cut outs. Looks good

[Locobob]

Yes they just masked off the lettering

[USAZR1]

Yes they just masked off the lettering


That really looks good,Bob!

[cvette98pacecar]

Yes but where can I find it and tap in easily? The diagram shows a LT green wire coming off the switch and going to the back up lamps but it doesn't show where this wire runs, physically in the car. I'd rather not string a new wire all the way to the rear.

green wire under the passenger side hush panel. I ran a wire threw the car with the antenna and went out the right upper rear grommet just behind the sun shade.

[Schrade]

Yes they just masked off the lettering

Got it - had to look hard to see there. If it had some old grubby finger jam on it, woulda' been easier to see the cutout.

Reminds me of a time I was doin' some installation work in some newlywed's home once. I tried walkin' through a new glass door. BOOM.

"No kids yet, huh?"

[cvette98pacecar]

Bob,

Use shrink tubing over the butt connectors to keep them from pulling out. I haven't had any issue with the "bullet" type butt connectors. They fit really snug.
Takes a bit of a yank to pull them out.

Metra makes a converter that plugs into the stock molex connector that has RCA jacks to connect directly into the radio output.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000301BVY/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Pete]

Bob, I did drill the heck out of the Corbeau tracks.:)
Corbeau seats also were 15lbs but with the tracks/slides they were closer to 20 lbs when I drilled the heck out of the tracks got them down to about 18-19lbs each seat w/track.

Can the factory slides/tracks be drilled?

After I gutted my factory sport seats basicly took all the motors wires switches out and installed factory slides from what I remember they came in at about 20-22lbs so for the comfort and stock look I sacrificed.

Dominic,did you weigh it with the track 32 lbs sounds a bit light.
The black seat you have listed for sale looks like the track is missing can you take a picture of the under side of the seat.

Pete

[Locobob]

I had a set of Corbeau sliders in another car many years ago, I remember them being quite light - just the sliders no additional bracket.... they were also very short. Wonder if it would be easier to modify an aftermarket slider assembly to fit the stock seat... rather than modifying the factory slider to be lower?

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0467.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0467.jpg.html)

I'm thinking if I go manual on the seat track I can remove the seat control boxes from the console and replace them with the blank ones - then I can cut out the blanks to accept the heated seat controls. Currently the heated seats just have one switch each which has hi, low, and off positions. I plan to add a second switch that will enable me to choose a back only option - I noticed on my friends car that sometimes the butt warmer was a bit much where as I liked having the back heater on. Looks like the seat control modules pop out, I think I see a plastic tab holding them in, anyone ever remove just this part?

[Schrade]

Looks clean there Bob; no 'corner jam' in the controls... http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[GOLDCYLON]

One more issue I ran into is that the PAC adapter harness is too short, not sure how I am going to mount the box as it is pretty much stretched out and the adapter box just kinda hangs from tension right outside the radio bezel and wont tuck away into the lower dash like I would like it to. Anyone else have experience with installing a PAC oem-1? Wonder if they make a extension wire?

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0449.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0449.jpg.html)


I would just cut and it extend it to the length you need. Just make sure you shrinkwrap the extensions

[GOLDCYLON]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0467.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0467.jpg.html)

I'm thinking if I go manual on the seat track I can remove the seat control boxes from the console and replace them with the blank ones - then I can cut out the blanks to accept the heated seat controls. Currently the heated seats just have one switch each which has hi, low, and off positions. I plan to add a second switch that will enable me to choose a back only option - I noticed on my friends car that sometimes the butt warmer was a bit much where as I liked having the back heater on. Looks like the seat control modules pop out, I think I see a plastic tab holding them in, anyone ever remove just this part?

If it was me I would just leave them in place the weight reduction is not worth it. However your car so go boldly :handshak:

[Locobob]

If it was me I would just leave them in place the weight reduction is not worth it. However your car so go boldly :handshak:

Says the guy with the carbon fiber roof panel..........

:D

[Locobob]

Got a few things back from the upholstery shop, here is the drivers under-dash panel that I had redone to match the red/black door panels.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0496.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0496.jpg.html)

[Dynomite]

Very nice. just like new. :thumbsup:

[Locobob]

Playing with a set of manual seat tracks. They weigh in at 6lbs a set where as the power tracks are about 14lbs each so we have a weight savings of 8lbs per side for a total of 16lbs off the car... + a little for the wiring and controls.

Here you can see a manual track up against the power. The rear of the manual track is the same height as the power at the lowest setting. I suspect the front is the same but I had mine raised a bit in the front in this pic.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0493.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0493.jpg.html)

I put the drivers seat in with the manual track on for a test fit. Knee room is still a bit tight with the Momo wheel but it is certainly better than it was. I think if I can take about an inch off the seat tracks it'll be pretty decent and perhaps I won't have to drive with the steering wheel tilted up.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0504.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0504.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0506.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0506.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Very nice. just like new. :thumbsup:

Thanks Cliff, I think it looks a whole lot better than the carpet.

[tf95ZR1]

Steering wheel is BEAUTIFUL!
Where's the paddle shifter?

[-=Jeff=-]

How much did that hush panel cost to get refinished ?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

How much did that hush panel cost to get refinished ? Yeah, that is SWEEEET!!

[GOLDCYLON]

Hang on to those power seat tracks... hell the core charge on em is $125. I just replaced my passenger side yesterday. GC

[GOLDCYLON]

Got a few things back from the upholstery shop, here is the drivers under-dash panel that I had redone to match the red/black door panels.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0496.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0496.jpg.html)


Very Clean... Leather ?

[-=Jeff=-]

It also looks liek you are swapping or have swapped everything from the Grey to Black controls..

Are you doing that too?

[GOLDCYLON]

It also looks liek you are swapping or have swapped everything from the Grey to Black controls..

Are you doing that too?


I picked up on that to. I was wondering about that and if the Guages function worked....

I was actually looking back to the beginning of the thread because I didnt see any mention of it beyond the doors :)

[-=Jeff=-]

I picked up on that to. I was wondering about that and if the Guages function worked....

I was actually looking back to the beginning of the thread because I didnt see any mention of it beyond the doors :)

no it will not, it should function as the range button.. I do know the flex PCB for it is different so many of the lights on the DIC will be wrong, when I did the 91 interior in my 89 with the 94-96 buttons and such, I had to use the flex PCB off of a 90 for that to show correctly..

the Gauges might work if he swapped to a 92 CCM and 92 PROM in the ECM, but one would have to verify that the wiring to the ECM is correct/same/similar from 91-92

[GOLDCYLON]

Would be a cool mod if it could be figured out.

[-=Jeff=-]

Oh yeah he also would need the 92 LCD (Almost forgot about that)

I have the pinouts for the ECM listed at home and I think the CCM is the same

The 90 is a different beast though due to the Power Key and the Knock stuff in an external module

[Locobob]

no it will not, it should function as the range button.. I do know the flex PCB for it is different so many of the lights on the DIC will be wrong, when I did the 91 interior in my 89 with the 94-96 buttons and such, I had to use the flex PCB off of a 90 for that to show correctly..

the Gauges might work if he swapped to a 92 CCM and 92 PROM in the ECM, but one would have to verify that the wiring to the ECM is correct/same/similar from 91-92

It does function as the range button. Haven't tested the DIC lights yet, except that they all come on with the start up test.

[Locobob]

Very Clean... Leather ?

No, we decided against leather for the hush panels - doesn't mold around irregular surfaces as well as vinyl. I am going to do leather on some of the more exposed parts - arm rests, center console lid, and probably the seats are going to get redone. So far Ive had both hush panels recovered and had them make me a new leather shift boot - came to about $200 for those three items.

[Locobob]

So I did a quick road test the other day to check out a few things.

As soon as I turn on the headlights I lose all dash lighting - it fades out to nothing. I'm sure this has something to do with the aftermarket head unit and the factory dimming function. Also the new head unit is too bright at night. It has a wire marked illumination but I'm not sure what to hook it up too. Anyone have a solution for me???

The new steering wheel is not centered, thought it was but no it's off by like 20-30 degrees when driving straight. I don't think I can correct it by rotating the mounting bolt holes over one - think that would be too much.... which leads me to the adapter and shaft splines. The NRG adapter logo ends up at about 11 o'clock with the tires straight. In all the pics I've seen it looks like the logo should end up at 12 o'clock.... but when I mounted the adapter to the shaft it seemed like it only wanted to go on one way.... hmmm

[-=Jeff=-]

For the light as far as the aftermarket radio I need to see how mine is wired.. I will get out to the car in a day or so

[Locobob]

For the light as far as the aftermarket radio I need to see how mine is wired.. I will get out to the car in a day or so

Thanks Jeff that would be very helpful. I know this has been done before as there are lots of C4's running aftermarket stereos but my searching has yielded iffy and often conflicting answers regarding what needs to be done with the wiring.

[Locobob]

Here are a couple of pics of the steering wheel issue. The stock wheel has larger spline slots at 12 and 6 o'clock so it can't really be installed wrong, not sure about the NRG adapter I used... would have to take it off again to look. It seemed like it would only seat on the splines the way I have it indexed.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0539.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0539.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0536.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0536.jpg.html)

[GOLDCYLON]

So I did a quick road test the other day to check out a few things.

As soon as I turn on the headlights I lose all dash lighting - it fades out to nothing. I'm sure this has something to do with the aftermarket head unit and the factory dimming function. Also the new head unit is too bright at night. It has a wire marked illumination but I'm not sure what to hook it up too. Anyone have a solution for me???

The new steering wheel is not centered, thought it was but no it's off by like 20-30 degrees when driving straight. I don't think I can correct it by rotating the mounting bolt holes over one - think that would be too much.... which leads me to the adapter and shaft splines. The NRG adapter logo ends up at about 11 o'clock with the tires straight. In all the pics I've seen it looks like the logo should end up at 12 o'clock.... but when I mounted the adapter to the shaft it seemed like it only wanted to go on one way.... hmmm

I tapped into the HVAC control above Bob they dim in day vs. night from the factory. It seemed the logical choice and it solved the problem. GC

[scottfab]

...snip...
As soon as I turn on the headlights I lose all dash lighting - it fades out to nothing. I'm sure this has something to do with the aftermarket head unit and the factory dimming function. Also the new head unit is too bright at night. It has a wire marked illumination but I'm not sure what to hook it up too. Anyone have a solution for me???

...snip...


Bob, did you document any/all alterations in the car electrical manual?
I can help you troubleshoot the issue over here if you want. I have all necessary equipment.

[Locobob]

I tapped into the HVAC control above Bob they dim in day vs. night from the factory. It seemed the logical choice and it solved the problem. GC

What wire did you tap into? ppl/wht, gry, gry/black? The C68 wiring diagram is confusing me. If I tap in here is that going to solve my dash dimming away to nothing problem or is do I need like a resistor or something on one of the unused stereo wires?

[Locobob]

Bob, did you document any/all alterations in the car electrical manual?
I can help you troubleshoot the issue over here if you want. I have all necessary equipment.

Hi Scott, I have been trying to document the changes I've made. All I really need to finish the wiring for this project is to figure out the stereo dimmer issue, think everything else is under control. I do have an idea for a future project that might be right up your alley but have enough on my plate at the moment so maybe it'll be next winters project.

[-=Jeff=-]

let me go look right now

[-=Jeff=-]

OK.. the Headunit has a 7 wire connector.. on the headunit side the wire is grey.. you can trace it in the manual

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_VoUZZFcRFM/UwbKPGp2q6I/AAAAAAAAFHs/lTtfFFfBExs/w1172-h660-no/IMG_20140220_211557253.jpg

[scottfab]

Bob, you may need a resistive voltage divider to make the new head unit match the intensity of the stock dash lights.
Do you have any paper work or schematic for the aftermarket unit?

[GOLDCYLON]

What wire did you tap into? ppl/wht, gry, gry/black? The C68 wiring diagram is confusing me. If I tap in here is that going to solve my dash dimming away to nothing problem or is do I need like a resistor or something on one of the unused stereo wires?

I honestly do not rememebr Bob as I did my HU install in 2007 I just remember taping into one of those wires above. All this will solve is the dimming of your Head unit issue with the Illumination wire as you mentioned that your HU was too bright.

[Schrade]

you can trace it in the manual



Any help here? I had something circled...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/KfT9FpW0CfrfR_06kVj8BYXoPfc8fkDI7Kr3PrDIXbE=w1107-h756-p-no

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes that is it.. what you have circled is the wire

[Locobob]

Any help here? I had something circled...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/KfT9FpW0CfrfR_06kVj8BYXoPfc8fkDI7Kr3PrDIXbE=w1107-h756-p-no

So this gray wire is on one of the two connectors that plug into the stock head unit... correct? The one in Jeff's pic.

[Locobob]

Bob, you may need a resistive voltage divider to make the new head unit match the intensity of the stock dash lights.
Do you have any paper work or schematic for the aftermarket unit?

The provided install paper work is pretty minimal, guess they are assuming install will be done by a pro. I suppose I will just have to try it and see if dimming works and is at an acceptable level.

[4DSZR1]

Nicely done !!!

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0552.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0552.jpg.html)

DIC's left side is 92 or 93, right side is 91
I'm swapping in the 92+ simply because of the black controls look better with the CF refinish, all of the used trouble lights are in the same physical locations but..... I noticed there are some minor wiring changes going on here - effecting PKE (which didn't make it for 91), battery, and check engine. These lights come on by being grounded, as you can see on the 91 the PKE shares power with a bunch of other bulbs, then they separated it in 92 and moved it to pin 13??? So PKE uses pins 13 and 14 on the 1992+ and pins 18-19 (shared +) and 14 on the 1991 part. This bumps the pins for battery and check engine down one. So anyhow I think I may have to take the wiring thingy (can't remember what its called) off my 91 part and transfer it to the 92+ part to make the DIC work correctly.

[Locobob]

Playing around with the DIC also got me thinking.... I only really need 6 or 7 of these lights (about half the screen)... I could possibly relocate the trouble lights somewhere else and open up the space the DIC screen occupies for a GPS or even a multifunction device like what Jeff is doing with the Nexus 7... hmmmm

[-=Jeff=-]

So anyhow I think I may have to take the wiring thingy (can't remember what its called) off my 91 part and transfer it to the 92+ part to make the DIC work correctly.

Yes, I mentioned that earlier int he thread :)

I do know the flex PCB for it is different so many of the lights on the DIC will be wrong, when I did the 91 interior in my 89 with the 94-96 buttons and such, I had to use the flex PCB off of a 90 for that to show correctly..

[scottfab]

The provided install paper work is pretty minimal, guess they are assuming install will be done by a pro. I suppose I will just have to try it and see if dimming works and is at an acceptable level.

Yes and let me know if the intensity is off too far. You're not that far away albeit a different state.

[WVZR-1]

Can't the lens of the DIC be transferred from the "required year" to be used right along with the correct PCB to make it all compatible. The only assembly I have is the '92 - '93 and the lens was removed I'm guessing for maybe use also. It was in a "box lot" of a parts purchase. All of the push buttons and the PCB was intact so I hung on to it.

The bulbs are getting difficult to source also -

[-=Jeff=-]

Can't the lens of the DIC be transferred from the "required year" to be used right along with the correct PCB to make it all compatible. The only assembly I have is the '92 - '93 and the lens was removed I'm guessing for maybe use also. It was in a "box lot" of a parts purchase. All of the push buttons and the PCB was intact so I hung on to it.

The bulbs are getting difficult to source also -

Not sure what you are asking..

The PCB can be swapped and allow the correct display.

Locobob wants to use black in place of the grey for his car..

[WVZR-1]

Not sure what you are asking..

The PCB can be swapped and allow the correct display.

Locobob wants to use black in place of the grey for his car..

I understood his reason why!

I would think there's a likelihood of the "filter" arrangement in the lens might actually be different. I don't know that all years are the same, a '93 would certainly be different just because of the 2 lamp display for the LTPWS vs. I believe only a single for the earlier.

LENS I would think has different "filter" arrangements. Don't have one of each to check but I'd think so. '90 thru '92 maybe but '93+ different I'd think.

[-=Jeff=-]

If I recall right, the filter arrangement stayed mostly the same, the only difference was the PCB layout. I had a 96 Filter with 90 PCB when I did my dash conversion in my 89 many years ago

[Schrade]

Playing around with the DIC also got me thinking.... I only really need 6 or 7 of these lights (about half the screen)... I could possibly relocate the trouble lights somewhere else and open up the space the DIC screen occupies for a GPS or even a multifunction device like what Jeff is doing with the Nexus 7... hmmmm

Can the connector be re-pinned?

Not at the ribbon connector, but UPstream on the circuit?

[WVZR-1]

If I recall right, the filter arrangement stayed mostly the same, the only difference was the PCB layout. I had a 96 Filter with 90 PCB when I did my dash conversion in my 89 many years ago

The filter seems to be dramatically different year to year. For starters '92+ has ASR and the layout is different for sure from '91. I don't have a '93 FSM so I can't comment on it but I'd guess substantially different from '91.

The layout is in the FSM at 8C-42 or something very close to that page for all years '90+ FSM.

[scottfab]

...snip...

The bulbs are getting difficult to source also -

I'm thinking these could be retro'd with an LED using
the same mounting hardware. If interest comes about I
can do these. Must keep the ZR-1 going.

[WVZR-1]

I'm thinking these could be retro'd with an LED using
the same mounting hardware. If interest comes about I
can do these. Must keep the ZR-1 going.

Scott - the bulbs I meant are the ones that are actually in the "push-button" aspect of the DIC for the "push-button" back lite. The ones in the warning, alerts and status filters aren't an issue.

The DIC Switch Pad bulbs are 80 AMP GM# 10159597 and a 40 AMP GM # 10159559. Best I recall one in gray and the other brown. I haven't had one apart for a few years and I don't recall which is which. I'll likely check that in the AM.

[Locobob]

Can the connector be re-pinned?

Not at the ribbon connector, but UPstream on the circuit?

I don't see why not, thats actually not a bad idea if I were to decide to move stuff around.

[Locobob]

Thanks for the help so far everyone. The last couple of months have just been a killer for me so my progress on this project pretty much came to a screeching halt. Hoping to start making some serious headway in the next few weeks... Corvette driving season is fast approaching and I'd hate to miss it.

[Locobob]

Planing to improve and re-cover the factory 94+ seats I have, been working with photoshop. Here is what I have so far, still playing with ideas.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat4.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat4.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

that is my next project.. I know most of what I want changed on the patterns for my seats, I just need to find out where and how much to have it done

[Locobob]

that is my next project.. I know most of what I want changed on the patterns for my seats, I just need to find out where and how much to have it done

It's not cheap to do, but surprisingly its not hugely more to have a local shop do a custom job verses buying the pre-made replacement covers. I'm going with top quality leather, adding a little extra foam to the bolsters, harness slots, and some accent touches. I really thought about doing the seats in red leather but they just don't stay looking nice in cars that actually get driven. Not sure if the harness slots are going to end up red either... might do CF look.

[GOLDCYLON]

Not sure on the Jake logo Bob. Looks ok on a C5R or C6R. Just saying.....

ZR-1 splash logo and LT5 are a little played out as well (Lol did I just say that???) Any thoughts on

a LPE logo or Haibeck LOGO etc to Play off on what is very different about you car Bob?

Just a thought and some other ideas since you asked. D

[Locobob]

Not sure on the Jake logo looks ok on a C5R or C6R. Just saying.....

Yeah I know... but I like Jake... maybe if I put the ZR-1 logo under?... IDK

[GOLDCYLON]

Yeah I know... but I like Jake... maybe if I put the ZR-1 logo under?... IDK


See my update to that post :)

[-=Jeff=-]

Not sure on the Jake logo Bob. Looks ok on a C5R or C6R. Just saying.....

ZR-1 splash logo and LT5 are a little played out as well (Lol did I just say that???) Any thoughts on

a LPE logo or Haibeck LOGO etc to Play off on what is very different about you car Bob?

Just a thought and some other ideas since you asked. D

Maybe just the C4 badge? like what comes OEM on the sport seats?

I have Jake on the rear glass but is a die cut and I can remove them. I think when I do my seats next time I might leave it plain

[Locobob]

My thought on Jake is that it's the Corvette Racing logo and not necessarily car or year specific, although it's a newer logo. To me it's not out of place like say putting a ZR-1 emblem on a non ZR-1.

[scottfab]

No sense in stopping at the old logo. Install this one using velcro so you can swap it out later on when the next one comes out.
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=194&pictureid=2497

[Schrade]

I think I'd go with 'ZR-1', or 'CORVETTE' (like OEM, with color embroidering), before Jake...

... or something personal - your college logo - like I did my '94 headliner:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DL0ZztomKwE/UyjMpDVqWrE/AAAAAAAAD0E/nONNrcfs_Nc/s288-c/March182014.jpg

[Locobob]

No sense in stopping at the old logo. Install this one using velcro so you can swap it out later on when the next one comes out.
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=194&pictureid=2497

Good one Scott

[scottfab]

Good one Scott

I like this one the best.
http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=194&pictureid=2499

[Locobob]

Worked on it a bit more, now have the correct harness grommets in and tried stitching around. Not sure what I'm going to do with the center cushions just yet, need to play with that too, so far I just took out the ribbing on the very top cushion and made it match the lower two.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat5.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat5.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat22.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat22.jpg.html)

[scottfab]

I like how the darker black background looks on this one. It' "pops"

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat5.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat5.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Ok so I got the harness slots and they are a little bigger than I thought so I don't think the red stitching around them is going to work.... so I played with a few more ideas today. The black square on the bottom cushion represents the sub belt slot.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat10.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat10.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat7.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat7.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat8.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat8.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

I'm kind of liking the splash of red on the seats which ties into the red door panels and under dash panels... what do you guys think?

[-=Jeff=-]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg.html)

I like the splash of red at the headrest, not sure about the bottom cushion though

[Locobob]

I like the splash of red at the headrest, not sure about the bottom cushion though

I tried the red on the headrest only and it looked funny, needs the red on the bottom cushion for balance.

[-=Jeff=-]

I tried the red on the headrest only and it looked funny, needs the red on the bottom cushion for balance.

Agreed and I should rephrase, I am not sure of the pattern for the red on the bottom

[Locobob]

Another idea

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/seat11.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/seat11.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

I dunno,

maybe the red should be on the headrest and down the sides but only on facing of the bolsters..

only thing about the way you have is how will be as far as comfort with the stitching there

[Locobob]

I dunno,

maybe the red should be on the headrest and down the sides but only on facing of the bolsters..

only thing about the way you have is how will be as far as comfort with the stitching there

I've seen the black center cushions with the red bolsters and headrest and I just wasn't crazy about the look. Trying to find that perfect balance of adding some color without overdoing it...

[-=Jeff=-]

then do all black with red stitching

[GOLDCYLON]

I dunno,

maybe the red should be on the headrest and down the sides but only on facing of the bolsters..

only thing about the way you have is how will be as far as comfort with the stitching there

Concur the red belongs on the bolsters as well avoid the seat pan area

[Locobob]

then do all black with red stitching

I was initially favoring that (its nice and conservative) but I really kinda want a bit more color... what I like about the red headrest area is that it is visible from outside the car and I've always liked the black car with red guts look. On the other hand I don't want to go all red like the factory seats... its just too much for me.... decisions decisions.

[-=Jeff=-]

all red facing, black on sides and backing

[USAZR1]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat9-1.jpg.html)


This is the one I keep coming back to,Bob.

[XfireZ51]

Bob,

How about modifying that last one just a bit and make the final lower seat section red. The area that supports the lower thigh area. I think that would be consistent w the upper headrest.

[Locobob]

So I tried a few more ideas, all red on the lower cushion was just too much for me.
Here is just the red on top and some stitching around the sub belt grommet.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat14.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat14.jpg.html)

And here is one I really like, tried to emulate the angles from the headrest on the bottom cushion.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/seat9a.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/seat9a.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Sorry about the big pics which don't fit on the screen.... if you right click and select view image then you'll be able to see the entire seat without scrolling.

[GOLDCYLON]

imho looks somewhat black widowish

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/93/Adult_Female_Black_Widow.jpg

[Locobob]

imho looks somewhat black widowish




That's not really a bad thing for a ZR-1 if you know what I mean.

[Locobob]

Finally got my modified seat brackets back, they should be a nice height improvement. Took about 7/8in off the front and maybe 1/4in off the rear. Had to cut down the rear seat mounting studs a bit for clearance.

Modified bracket in foreground:
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0606.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0606.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Still playing with some color ideas, here are a couple of my attempts to tie in the red door panels and create kind of a wrap around effect with the red.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/robertvetpic5fcopy.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/robertvetpic5fcopy.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/robertvetpic5g.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/robertvetpic5g.jpg.html)

Borrowed this idea from Caravaggio as you can see here...
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/1237887_1450863111814905_1337788947_n.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/1237887_1450863111814905_1337788947_n.jpg.html)

[XfireZ51]

Robert,

Wow! The way the car should have come from the factory in the first place. I like the black/red. Actually, like them both.

[GOLDCYLON]

I like the zr1 interior but not that diamond tuck look on the console side

[Locobob]

I like the zr1 interior but not that diamond tuck look on the console side

I concur, the diamond tuck is not bad when its done subtly but it's too much for me when a contrasting thread color is used.

[Locobob]

I grabbed some red scrap from the upholstery shop and did some very crude mockups, I have decided to go with the red center console surround but the seats are still vexing me.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0628.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0628.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0625.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0625.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0620.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0620.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0627.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0627.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0623.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0623.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Waiting on three different venders for various parts I need for this project, engraving shop has my heated seat switch panels, paint shop has my harness grommets, and sign shop has my custom DIC screen.... arrggg.... hate waiting on stuff.

[USAZR1]

[QUOTE=Locobob;201388]Still playing with some color ideas, here are a couple of my attempts to tie in the red door panels and create kind of a wrap around effect with the red.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/robertvetpic5fcopy.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/robertvetpic5fcopy.jpg.html)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Photoshop your new Momo Commando to the above and let's see that,Bob.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0332.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Working on some more wiring while I wait for stuff from vendors. Here is the radio connector. I cut the gray/black wire which is incandescent illumination and connected it to the dimmer wire on the aftermarket head unit. Then I took the other gray/black and the purple/white which are LED and LCD illumination and connected them to a pair of 1K ohm 1/2 watt resistors - need to find a keyed hot to connect these two. This is per bulletin 238311. Was thinking of possibly tapping into one of the two keyed hots which feed the DIC.


http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0634.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0634.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0635.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0635.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Also rewired the connectors which feed the DIC to incorporate the changes made in my custom DIC display - a mock up of which can be seen in the first pic. Basically all I had to do here is cut three wires and move them to connector slots which are conveniently unused on the 91 DIC display.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0647.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0647.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0641.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0641.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0640.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0640.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

The window in the custom DIC screen is for a tire pressure monitoring system. Think I'm going to pull power for this off the I CONV PL fuse which is under dash on the passenger side, it's hot in run. Need to find a ground to tap into near this location, any suggestions?

[Schrade]

Re-pinning sockets. Been there did it (desktop PC) YUK.

Good work on it http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Locobob]

Re-pinning sockets. Been there did it (desktop PC) YUK.

Good work on it http://www.zr1.net/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Wasn't too bad of a job, except the terminals I found don't want to lock into the connector. I'll have to watch them to make sure they don't back out when I push the pin side in.

[Schrade]

How did you unpin the sockets?

Got a sputnik like Darby has there?

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3423&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1398302729

[Locobob]

How did you unpin the sockets?

Got a sputnik like Darby has there?

http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3423&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1398302729

I cut the wires and put on new terminals, had I known there was a tool like that I probably would have used it.

[Locobob]

Making some real progress now. I've been vexed by dimmer issues for a while now and I kept playing with the stereo connections thinking that the problem was stemming from there. Finally I got smart and put a multimeter on the gray/blk dimmer wire coming off the seat controls... it only read about .6 volts on low and just over 1 volt with the dimmer all the way up. Turns out it was my headlight switch causing the problem. I bought a 92-93 headlight switch off ebay so that I could start with the black finish which blends in better with the carbon fiber coating, apparently it had some internal problems. I swapped the guts of the unit with my original headlight switch and no more problems :) The stereo now dims like it should running off the incandescent light control (gry/blk) and I'm getting proper voltage at the seat control dimmer wire. Here is a little video of me testing a few things. You can see the stereo dim as well as my custom heated seat switch panels and the amber LED strips I have under them to provide lighting. This is the first edition of my seat switch panels, they made the lettering too big so I have another set being made up. My lettering fill paint is also not quite as orange as the factory so I'll probably try some different paint next time. The annoying red light that comes on when looking at the stereo is a red LED I'm testing in the DIC display - more on that later.

Click on the pic below to see the video

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/th_IMG_0649.jpg (http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0649.mp4)

[Locobob]

Also I need a favor from the 91 owners here - what lights up on your DIC display when you first turn the key? I'm not seeing anything from ABS active and low coolant (which I moved), and also nothing from the low oil light (which I didn't move).

[Locobob]

My research seems to indicate that the low coolant light does not come on during the DIC bulb test at key on. How about ABS active and low oil? There's got to be some folks out there with 90-91 models that can verify this for me. Anyone..... anyone.... Bueller?.... Bueller?

[-=Jeff=-]

Give me a couple min.. I will go get a pic of my 90

[-=Jeff=-]

1990:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YS9P3nkLy_0/U4PzSGWqKnI/AAAAAAAAF0g/ER8c0NBEVJI/w1554-h875-no/IMG_20140526_205831925.jpg

[Schrade]

Click on the pic below to see the video

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/th_IMG_0649.jpg (http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0649.mp4)


Work is looking good.

Mine is '90; same lights as Jeff's.

Does your console buckle out from under the center trim? What are you doing on it?

[Locobob]

Thanks guys, looks like no bulb test mode on ABS active, low coolant and low oil. Although I've seen low oil flash on briefly at key on, possibly just a momentary reading from the sensor under certain conditions?

Console buckle? Are you referring to the drivers side console carpet/side panel?

[-=Jeff=-]

Console buckle? Are you referring to the drivers side console carpet/side panel?

That would be my guess

where did you get the custom DIC panel from?

[Schrade]

Thanks guys, looks like no bulb test mode on ABS active, low coolant and low oil. Although I've seen low oil flash on briefly at key on, possibly just a momentary reading from the sensor under certain conditions?

Console buckle? Are you referring to the drivers side console carpet/side panel?

Yeah there Rob; seems more common than I thought, but only post I saw here on it ever was someone just put screws through the panel... :eek:

Even Black screws in Black carpet? Not for something interior...

[Locobob]

That would be my guess

where did you get the custom DIC panel from?

I'm having it made, don't have the final one yet, hopefully it'll be done today.

[Locobob]

Yeah there Rob; seems more common than I thought, but only post I saw here on it ever was someone just put screws through the panel... :eek:

Even Black screws in Black carpet? Not for something interior...

Yeah I have that issue too, might try some Velcro, we'll see when I get to that point.

[Locobob]

So my custom DIC display with integrated tire pressure monitoring system is finished.

Here is the modified DIC housing, I cut a big chunk of it out and then glued a flat piece of acrylic down to provide a flat base for mounting the TPMS. I used some squared plastic tubing for columns underneath to set the height and get it even all around.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010012.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010012.jpg.html)

These are the component parts that go on top, guts of Orange Electronics TPMS, piece of orange tinted acrylic to bring the display colors more in line with the existing dash lighting, tinted cover panel with warning indicators and a clear section cut out for the TPMS display, and to the right are buttons I made which protrude through the panel in order to activate the micro switches on the TPMS unit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010014.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010014.jpg.html)

Here is most of the unit assembled with screws at the four corners to keep everything together. I'm using red LED's for the warning lights. The cord for the TPMS unit will come in through the bulb socket directly left of the unit and then loop around through the far left cube and plug into the unit. I could have added one more warning light at the top left of the TPMS but couldn't really think of anything else I needed. If I still had the factory steering wheel and airbag then this is where the inflation rest warning would go, or if it were a 90 one could put the full power indicator here.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010015.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010015.jpg.html)

A few parts that didn't get used. First run of the display panel which was way to transparent, clear plastic rod which I cut pieces off and painted to form the TPMS display buttons, and some buttons I robbed off a junk stereo which I was going to use but then realized that doing so was going to cause assembly/dis-assembly issues so I scrapped that idea.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010022.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010022.jpg.html)

The assembled DIC
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010019.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010019.jpg.html)

Ill get some pics of the unit in action in the next few days.

[-=Jeff=-]

What TPMS kit is it?

Willing to make more of the DC displays?

[XfireZ51]

LB,

Your DIC display would be perfect for readout coming from a WB O2.

[Schrade]

LB,

Your DIC display would be perfect for readout coming from a WB O2.

Can you wire a logic board for dual function?

[GOLDCYLON]

My research seems to indicate that the low coolant light does not come on during the DIC bulb test at key on. How about ABS active and low oil? There's got to be some folks out there with 90-91 models that can verify this for me. Anyone..... anyone.... Bueller?.... Bueller?


Sorry Bob I missed this I will snap a pic for you today

[GOLDCYLON]

What TPMS kit is it?

Willing to make more of the DC displays?


http://www.orange-electronic.com/en/orange_about_us.html

http://www.amazon.com/Orange-Electronic-P409S-Retrofit-Monitoring/dp/B002DYH586/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

[Locobob]

What TPMS kit is it?

Willing to make more of the DC displays?

Daryl is correct, it's the Orange P409 and yes I can make more display screens.

[GOLDCYLON]

Daryl is correct, it's the Orange P409 and yes I can make more display screens.


Bob do you still need that pic? Sorry I missed your Bueller call. D

[Locobob]

LB,

Your DIC display would be perfect for readout coming from a WB O2.

The clear window in the display screen measures 2 1/8 by 1 3/8 in., I could have them alter that dimension a bit if need be. I can also have them add one or possibly two more warning indicators.

[Locobob]

Bob do you still need that pic? Sorry I missed your Bueller call. D

No but thanks anyhow Daryl, three folks confirmed no bulb test on the low coolant, oil and ABS active. I also manually grounded the lights at the connector just to make sure my re-pinning was successful.

[Locobob]

Okay so here is a little vid with the new DIC unit, obviously the pressure sensors have not been installed in the tires yet.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/th_IMG_0687.jpg (http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0687.mp4)

[Locobob]

Just got the final edition of my heated seat control panels back, slapped in a little paint and then did a back light test. The lettering color is super close with the back lighting off but its a bit more yellow than the factory tint once the lights are on... not sure what else I can do here... it's not super noticeable from a distance but its there.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0683.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0683.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Couple of shots of the DIC, the plug-in for the TPMS unit just slightly obscures the service ride control light in the upper right hand corner but that's not going to hurt anything.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0681.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0681.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0682.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0682.jpg.html)

With the cover removed. Something odd is going on with the check engine and service abs bulbs. They both come on full bright as they should at initial key on... but then they stay on at a reduced brightness. You can see the service select ride at the far left on full bright (need to try to reset this), then the check engine light is at about half brightness, and the service ABS is just barely emitting a glow. All of these should be off. Any idea what could be causing this??? The bulbs are all LED's. I really perplexed, I don't see any obvious wiring issues.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0680.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0680.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

I'm thinking it's got to be a ground issue of some kind since the dic warning lights are always powered and turn on through grounding.

[GOLDCYLON]

Couple of shots of the DIC, the plug-in for the TPMS unit just slightly obscures the service ride control light in the upper right hand corner but that's not going to hurt anything.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0681.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0681.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0682.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0682.jpg.html)

With the cover removed. Something odd is going on with the check engine and service abs bulbs. They both come on full bright as they should at initial key on... but then they stay on at a reduced brightness. You can see the service select ride at the far left on full bright (need to try to reset this), then the check engine light is at about half brightness, and the service ABS is just barely emitting a glow. All of these should be off. Any idea what could be causing this??? The bulbs are all LED's. I really perplexed, I don't see any obvious wiring issues.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0680.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0680.jpg.html)


Id suggest putting the bulbs back in to see if the condition is the same. The Leds might be the problem. Unless they (the LEDs) have individual resisters the old school DIC might be having a problem with the voltage. D

[Locobob]

Id suggest putting the bulbs back in to see if the condition is the same. The Leds might be the problem. Unless they (the LEDs) have individual resisters the old school DIC might be having a problem with the voltage. D

I tried bench testing the unit with a 9v battery and some wires, everything lit as it should and I didn't see any signs of crosstalk between the circuits. The SES and Service ABS run side by side on the flexible circuit board and terminate directly across from each other so I thought maybe something was bridging them but couldn't find any sign of that, hmmm. I'll try removing and swapping some bulbs out in a bit.

[Locobob]

Did some testing: pulling the SRC bulb changed nothing, switching the SRC to the stock bulb changed nothing. Pulling either one of the dim LED's did not effect the other one. Now what did work was replacing the dim LED's with stock bulbs, the lights went out instead of being dim, and they did function normally during the key on bulb test. Not sure what to make of that...

[GOLDCYLON]

Did some testing: pulling the SRC bulb changed nothing, switching the SRC to the stock bulb changed nothing. Pulling either one of the dim LED's did not effect the other one. Now what did work was replacing the dim LED's with stock bulbs, the lights went out instead of being dim, and they did function normally during the key on bulb test. Not sure what to make of that...

Who's the man lol

[Locobob]

Who's the man lol

If you can explain why that happened I will gladly say you're the man. The warning lights have constant power and turn on by being grounded...

[GOLDCYLON]

If you can explain why that happened I will gladly say you're the man. The warning lights have constant power and turn on by being grounded...

I have no idea but have a lot of experience on LEDs performance. :cheers:

[Locobob]

I have no idea but have a lot of experience on LEDs performance. :cheers:

I was just talking to Scott Fabre about this and he thinks it's likely that there is "leakage" at the grounds on those two systems. The very low current requirements of the LED's would explain why they light up when incandescents do not such being the case.

[GOLDCYLON]

I was just talking to Scott Fabre about this and he thinks it's likely that there is "leakage" at the grounds on those two systems. The very low current requirements of the LED's would explain why they light up when incandescents do not such being the case.


This is a plausible arugment. Back in the day when LEDs were becoming cheaper and usable in cars a mere 8 years ago you used to have to wire in resisters in order for them to operate properly. Taillight leds problems were resolved with replacing the mechinal flashing units with a electronic flashers that could handle the microspeed of the LEDs and allow them to "flash" or "pulse" if you prefer correctly. When you search online these days for replacement LEDs for your car for normal LEDs and SMDs you will see now the catch phrase "no error". These are the type that have the resisters built into the units. As the cars get smarter and intergrate in other vehicles DICs the earlier replacelent LEDs which show or "Display" an error code or the bulb as being out. Adding the resisters to these units solved that. So this being said if you can find a replacement SMD that will fit that is a "No error" type this might work.

Back to your example if the ground is not a true ground even a small amount of "Stray" voltage will allow an extremely low to power already SMD or LED to glow dimly. It really would not take a lot of milli amps for that to occur. Hence your problem. It makes complete sense.

[Locobob]

These are the LED's I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pack-PC74-Twist-Sockets-Red-Instrument-Cluster-Dash-3-SMD-Led-Light-Bulb-/171348082533?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e5243f65&vxp=mtr
Not sure if there is another type that would alleviate the issue or perhaps a way to modify the circuit to prevent the low current glow... I may just be stuck using the stock incandescent bulbs in these two locations, which is kind of a bummer as the LED's look really sharp, but then again they are just warning lights which I wont be looking at all the time.... hopefully lol