Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[Locobob]

The ebay vender can't seem to get me the exact specs on these LED's. I did talk to another place that sells something similar and looked up their specs: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/pc74-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/709/
They said I could try putting a resistor in the power supply - which would be the two pink/black wires shown in the 91FSM (Elect.) on 8A-202-1. These two wires come together on the flexible circuit board and then fan out to power all of the warning lights in the DIC. They suggested trying something around a 1K ohm, 1/4W resistor. Anyone care to opine on this?

[Locobob]

Well crap. Just tried splicing into the pink/black hot wires with a pair of 1K ohm, 1/2 watt resistors that I had laying around..... and the two dim lights that aren't supposed to be on are still on. About ready to just say screw it and put the incandescents back in grrrrrrrr.

[Schrade]

Well crap. Just tried splicing into the pink/black hot wires with a pair of 1K ohm, 1/2 watt resistors that I had laying around..... and the two dim lights that aren't supposed to be on are still on. About ready to just say screw it and put the incandescents back in grrrrrrrr.

Get up with Dave WVZR1 on it...

[Locobob]

Today I tried plugging a rheostat into the middle of the pink/black keyed hots that feed all the trouble lights in the DIC. It had a range of 2 - 10K ohms. My plan was to add resistance to the circuit until the dim bulbs (which are supposed to be off) actually turned off. To make a long story short it did a fine job acting as a dimmer switch for the LED's that were supposed to be lit - it did now however seem to effect the dim problem bulbs in the least?!?! Even at 10k ohms they remained glowing. How can this be? I even unplugged it to see if they were somehow getting power from elsewhere... nope, they went off. ARRRGGGG!

[Locobob]

Gave up on the DIC for a while and worked on my heated seat switches. I've been having a heck of a time trying to duplicate the factory illumination color. The unlit color was pretty easy to match - hobby store spray paint called "Camel Yellow" is very close. I sprayed this into the engraving from the backside. I then tried lighting it with the amber LED strip but it was way more yellow than the factory color which is more of a dark brownish orange. Next I tried a more orangy yellow spray paint behind the camel yellow... still too yellow. Finally I took a very dark orange marker and went over the letters again.... still to yellow. Then I got smart and I realized that the amber LED's were the problem. I bought some new clear LED strips, much better, went over the LED lenses with a red marker and perfect as you can see below in the second pic.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0698.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0698.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0693.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0693.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

I glued my new switch panels down onto the FX3 controller bezel and installed all of the switches. Sorry about the poor quality pics, my camera lense needs to be cleaned up.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0703.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0703.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0709.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0709.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

Today I tried plugging a rheostat into the middle of the pink/black keyed hots that feed all the trouble lights in the DIC. It had a range of 2 - 10K ohms. My plan was to add resistance to the circuit until the dim bulbs (which are supposed to be off) actually turned off. To make a long story short it did a fine job acting as a dimmer switch for the LED's that were supposed to be lit - it did now however seem to effect the dim problem bulbs in the least?!?! Even at 10k ohms they remained glowing. How can this be? I even unplugged it to see if they were somehow getting power from elsewhere... nope, they went off. ARRRGGGG!

What are you doing? trying to make LEDs dimmable?

LEDs take LOW current and range in voltag depending on color.. not sure dimming them is the same as dimming the incandescent bulbs

[GOLDCYLON]

I glued my new switch panels down onto the FX3 controller bezel and installed all of the switches. Sorry about the poor quality pics, my camera lense needs to be cleaned up.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0703.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0703.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0709.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0709.jpg.html)

Well done looks like it could be factory

[Locobob]

What are you doing? trying to make LEDs dimmable?

LEDs take LOW current and range in voltag depending on color.. not sure dimming them is the same as dimming the incandescent bulbs

If you read back a ways you'll see the problem I'm trying to correct. Basically I have two LED's that are staying on dimly when they should be off.

[Locobob]

Well done looks like it could be factory

Thanks Daryl, that was my goal. Tested the switches and they work, but I'm having an odd problem with the on/off/on - when I push down on one side it is the opposite side that lights/powers up? I've never seen a 3 position rocker work like that... looking at the wiring diagram I don't see anything I could do differently to correct that. The switch illumination is dependent on the switch position, its not separately wired. I'm tempted to just pull the ground off, reverse the hi/low wires and make it an unlit switch, it's just odd and confusing that it works backwards like that.

[Locobob]

Okay so I officially give up trying to use LED's in the DIC, incandescents are going back in :( I tried one last thing, a couple of bulbs from a different manufacturer but no dice, same old problem. Done wasting time on this.

Worked on this today, V1 remote built into the dash. I used to have it on the far left side of this same vent assembly but my right hand would partially cover the display when on the steering wheel. I put a lot more work into the install this time. built up a mounting surface and filled in the surround complete with beveled edge to look factory. Here it is in primer, sending it off for carbon fiber finish tomorrow. Again sorry for the picture quality, still haven't got my camera lens in for cleaning.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0720.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0720.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0719.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0719.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0723.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0723.jpg.html)

[GOLDCYLON]

Well I've seen shift lights hidden behind that vent before but never a V1. Well done

[tf95ZR1]

Another idea:
I put mine next to the valet switch:

http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd335/tf95ZR-1/ZR1V1.jpg

Before the Am HC Carbon Fiber treatment

[Locobob]

Currently waiting on the two trans tunnel interior side pieces - the upholstery shop has now had them over a month and I'm starting to get pretty annoyed... Car is up in the air, wheels and tires are off getting the TPMS sensors installed. Sent the clutch slave cylinder off to Jandik's to get rebuilt.

Working on the door panel fitting for the last couple of days. Updating to the 94-96 panels is a bit of a pain in the ***. Honestly I don't think they are as good of quality as the 91 panels. I had to relocate the door pull screw mounting points on both sides.

Here is the passenger side. The mounting points needed to be both raised by 3/4in and come in about 1/4in. I use a block of plastic known as starboard to make the needed adjustments, its easy to cut, drill, and it holds threads reasonable well. I removed the plastic nuts from the factory aluminum bracket and bolted the plastic to it using those holes then drilled new holes to line up with the door panel door pull screws.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0724.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0724.jpg.html)

On the drivers side the height was okay so I drilled out the three rivets holding the aluminum bracket to the inner door and then inserted a 3/8in spacer made of starboard and riveted it back together. Worked fine although in hindsight a 1/4in spacer might have been a better fit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0727.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0727.jpg.html)

I used thin strips of plastic along some of the inner door panel top mounting points to try and close up the gap between the inner and outer door seals. I also trimmed a little of the rubber weather stripping and the door panel itself. I was only partially successful as you can see. I'd get the top of the door panel shoved down tight with it angled inward (toward the car) at the bottom but every time I'd try to bring the bottom of the door panel against the inner door the gap at the top would open up. Used the stock screws at the bottom of the panel with black plastic washers as the newer panels are designed for push in retainers. Anyhow pretty frustrating trying to get a good fit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0728.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0728.jpg.html)

[GOLDCYLON]

Honestly I don't think they are as good of quality as the 91 panels.

True statement!! other than the refresh look and the door consoles the 94-96 door panels are one piece junk. With the earlier panels they are better built, seperate into three seperate salvagable pieces. the later style is one piece lighter cheap junk. Looks like a complete PITA however Bob it is coming along. I dont know why GM did not maintain the quality of the earlier interior panel. Prob cheaper to make em one piece

[Locobob]

Since I had some extra wires to play with after doing away with the power seat tracks I decided to install auxiliary power plugs under the passenger side seat.

Here is the bracket I carved out of aluminum.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0729.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0729.jpg.html)

Painted black, plugs installed and bracket mounted to seat frame.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010015-1.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010015-1.jpg.html)

Dual USB's on one side and conventional cigar lighter type socket on the other.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/P1010013.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/P1010013.jpg.html)

I have the main POS/GRND wires already run, just need to install a fuse and then split the wires as each plug has it's own terminals. I'll tuck the wires up along the bottom of the seat frame to keep them away from the tracks.

[Locobob]

Here is the wiring on the underside of the (shown above) seat mounted aux power ports. Yeah the weather-pack connector is overkill but that's what I had laying around so I used it, fuse is on the other end of the connector.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0744.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0744.jpg.html)

Got my modified vent back from American Hydrocarbon - turned out great!

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0740.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0740.jpg.html)

Now I am absolutely out of things to do until the upholstery shop gets my transmission tunnel sides done, two months and counting, probably going to find a new upholstery shop after this debacle.

[Locobob]

Finally! Back from the upholstery shop.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0755.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0755.jpg.html)

Here is my passenger lower dash mounting, used some plastic to extend the tabs so I had a couple of points to drive bolts into.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0762.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0762.jpg.html)

Side of panel just kinda floats in the air but doesn't appear that will create any problems, wasted some time fixing this tab.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0758.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0758.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0756.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0756.jpg.html)

More trim installed
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0765.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0765.jpg.html)

Drivers side view
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0767.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0767.jpg.html)

[USAZR1]

Damn,that looks good!

[Locobob]

Did a shake down drive yesterday.... let the problems commence.

Engine RPM whine through stereo speakers

Headlight switch is not lighting up when lights are on

Custom shift boot doesn't fit right, leather binds up when trying to shift into 1st, 3rd and 5th.... back to the upholstery shop grrrr

About 30 minutes into my drive all my new gizmos died. Lost exhaust cut out control, radar detector, TPMS and back-up camera. The common link to these is the I CONV PL 15 amp fuse. The pink/black acc.wire from this fuse provides direct power to the exhaust cut outs and back up camera and also triggers the relay which the radar detector runs off of. My TPMS is powered by an "add a fuse" which is directly plugged into the I CONV PL. Not sure if I'm trying to run too much off this circuit or if something shorted out. I strongly suspect the exhaust cut outs as looking at my diagrams it appears that I forgot to add a secondary fuse on this circuit.

So pretty frustrated at this point, guess I should have done more testing before putting the interior panels back on... time to pull everything back apart arrrrgggg!

[tf95ZR1]

Loco, whenever you deviate from stock you are going to run
into obstacles. That's what engineers get paid for. What you
are doing separates you from the boys. Hang in there:
LOOKS GREAT!

[-=Jeff=-]

Engine RPM whine through stereo speakers

Check your grounds on your equipment. What do you have and where is it placed. What wires are you using and how are they ran in the car?



About 30 minutes into my drive all my new gizmos died. Lost exhaust cut out control, radar detector, TPMS and back-up camera. The common link to these is the I CONV PL 15 amp fuse. The pink/black acc.wire from this fuse provides direct power to the exhaust cut outs and back up camera and also triggers the relay which the radar detector runs off of. My TPMS is powered by an "add a fuse" which is directly plugged into the I CONV PL. Not sure if I'm trying to run too much off this circuit or if something shorted out. I strongly suspect the exhaust cut outs as looking at my diagrams it appears that I forgot to add a secondary fuse on this circuit.



Yeah that is way too much for a 15a fuse.. How are the Cut-outs wired?

I would buy a small fuse panel and run a heavier wire from the Fusible link block then run things off of there.. if you need then to run @ key on only, then use a relay controlled by the I CONV PL fuse to energize the relay to apply power tot he new fuse panel.

[-=Jeff=-]

fuse blocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-15600-06-20/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30002/overview/

just a couple

[Locobob]

Loco, whenever you deviate from stock you are going to run
into obstacles. That's what engineers get paid for. What you
are doing separates you from the boys. Hang in there:
LOOKS GREAT!

Yeah I knew there would be issues to sort out.... just not so damn many :(
My extra gizmos worked great and looked awesome for that 30min....

[Locobob]

fuse blocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bss-15600-06-20/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30002/overview/

just a couple

You know that is a really good idea, perhaps I should move my relay and run a fuse block in the rear storage compartment with power coming from the 30amp power seat circuit which is underutilized now that I pulled out the power seat tracks. I was trying to cram everything under the rear of the shifter bezel and that is proving to be a frustratingly tight fit.

[Locobob]

I suppose I could also run a new lead right off the battery kill switch as its right behind the rear storage bins, then I would have unlimited power for a fuse block.

[Locobob]

Check your grounds on your equipment. What do you have and where is it placed. What wires are you using and how are they ran in the car?


I'm still using the bose speakers/amps with a PAC OEM-1 adapter so the ground is as stock - just runs in and out of the adapter. Kinda sounds like only the rear speakers are whining - need to check that a little closer and confirm if that is the case.

[Dynomite]

Side of panel just kinda floats in the air but doesn't appear that will create any problems, wasted some time fixing this tab.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0758.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0758.jpg.html)

Just fixed my broken tab (the one on the hush panel with two holes that holds up the hush panel). Your tab is too short in and out (some of the horizontal part must have broken off). I sanded a little block of wood at the appropriate angles and using JB Weld.....welded the tab bottom to the block of wood and the block of wood to the hush panel. The little block of wood was about an inch long or a bit longer and a wedge shape since that tab is not perpendicular to the hush panel plastic side. This reinforced the joint where it originally broke.

Very Interesting Thread...thanks :thumbsup:

[Locobob]

Just fixed my broken tab (the one on the hush panel with two holes that holds up the hush panel). Your tab is too short in and out (some of the horizontal part must have broken off). I sanded a little block of wood at the appropriate angles and using JB Weld.....welded the tab bottom to the block of wood and the block of wood to the hush panel. The little block of wood was about an inch long or a bit longer and a wedge shape since that tab is not perpendicular to the hush panel plastic side. This reinforced the joint where it originally broke.

Very Interesting Thread...thanks :thumbsup:

This is where the tab seemed to want to fit, I'm guessing it's because I'm putting a 94+ panel on a 91, my stock original panel has a tab the jogs inward then up.

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes, mine is sort if bent inward, I will fix it this winter

[Locobob]

I'm still using the bose speakers/amps with a PAC OEM-1 adapter so the ground is as stock - just runs in and out of the adapter. Kinda sounds like only the rear speakers are whining - need to check that a little closer and confirm if that is the case.

So I checked it out and the rpm whine is coming from all four speakers.

[secondchance]

So I checked it out and the rpm whine is coming from all four speakers.

Locobob,

Two ways I am aware o to fix alternator whine:

1. If you are using RCA low level input between the audio source to amps, running ground loop isolators will take out the whine.

2. If 1 is not an option, take 3,300 to 3,600 microfarad axial capacitor and connect positive side to the alternator output and take the negative side and ground to the alternator housing.

I used method 2, on and off, since 1980 and it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-Electrolytic-Capacitor-GHA-3300uF-35V-105-2000hrs-18x33mm-Axial-RoHS-SC-/130972309472?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e8ed7e0

I spent a year trying to take the whine out from the first hi-fi install (head and amp set up w/ Jensen speakers) I did in my 79 L48 Vette. A professional installer gave me this tip.

[WVZR-1]

Not related to your issues but with the battery relocation did you include a fusible link for the charge wire from the alternator to the battery or are you using just an extension from the jump block behind the original battery? If you plan on additional fuse blocks I believe I'd include a maxi-fuse link to the block from where ever you decide to power it.

"Secondchance" suggested the capacitor and that should certainly take care of the whine.

[Locobob]

Not related to your issues but with the battery relocation did you include a fusible link for the charge wire from the alternator to the battery or are you using just an extension from the jump block behind the original battery? If you plan on additional fuse blocks I believe I'd include a maxi-fuse link to the block from where ever you decide to power it.

"Secondchance" suggested the capacitor and that should certainly take care of the whine.

Mark did the battery relocation wiring, there is a 12 gauge(ish) wire coming off the kill switch which I believe goes to the alternator, I'll have to ask him for the details next time I talk to him. New fuse block pics coming shortly.

[Locobob]

Locobob,

Two ways I am aware o to fix alternator whine:

1. If you are using RCA low level input between the audio source to amps, running ground loop isolators will take out the whine.

2. If 1 is not an option, take 3,300 to 3,600 microfarad axial capacitor and connect positive side to the alternator output and take the negative side and ground to the alternator housing.

I used method 2, on and off, since 1980 and it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-Electrolytic-Capacitor-GHA-3300uF-35V-105-2000hrs-18x33mm-Axial-RoHS-SC-/130972309472?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e8ed7e0

I spent a year trying to take the whine out from the first hi-fi install (head and amp set up w/ Jensen speakers) I did in my 79 L48 Vette. A professional installer gave me this tip.

I'm still using the Bose amps/speakers so there aren't any RCA's currently in use. I did run some along the tunnel for possible future use and two of them are plugged into the head unit bass output as I may add a sub. Do you have any more info on the capacitor mod? pics of what this mod looks like?

[Locobob]

So here is the solution to my accessory wiring woes. This nice little kit features 3 always hot circuits and 4 keyed hots. It comes pre-wired and install is really simple, big red wire goes directly to the battery (or any large power distribution block) and powers the entire unit, pink wire goes to any keyed hot and powers the relay which turns 4 of the circuits into keyed hots, ground wire to ground. Then it's just a matter of running the various circuits to where you want them. Currently I'm only using 3 of the keyed hots: one for the seat heaters, one for the exhaust cut-outs, and one that splits into the 3 console accessory switches that I added - only the radar detector switch is presently in use. I left my back-up camera power on the under console pink/black wire which I also used for the new fuse block relay. I also left the TPMS connected to the I CONV fuse under the passenger side dash as it works nicely there. Did a quick shakedown run late last night and it appears that this has solved my accessory power issues.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0784.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0784.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0792.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0792.jpg.html)

Looking forward in the passenger side rear storage bin: From left you can see battery relocation wires, Valentine 1 unit, new circuit block, and master fuse for circuit block.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0797.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0797.jpg.html)

I ran the fuse block power cable out the back side of the rear storage bin and connected it to the kill switch. I also ran a new ground wire off the cross-member and back into the storage bin for the both the fuse block and radar detector unit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0794.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0794.jpg.html)

I removed the relay and fuse that I had previously installed in the center console area and made this same area into a junction point where many of the accessory wires come together.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0804.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0804.jpg.html)

[Locobob]

Console layout
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0788.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0788.jpg.html)

Most of the interior, missing the shift console since the upholstery shop screwed up my shift boot.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0782.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0782.jpg.html)

[cvette98pacecar]

So here is the solution to my accessory wiring woes. This nice little kit features 3 always hot circuits and 4 keyed hots. It comes pre-wired and install is really simple, big red wire goes directly to the battery (or any large power distribution block) and powers the entire unit, pink wire goes to any keyed hot and powers the relay which turns 4 of the circuits into keyed hots, ground wire to ground. Then it's just a matter of running the various circuits to where you want them. Currently I'm only using 3 of the keyed hots: one for the seat heaters, one for the exhaust cut-outs, and one that splits into the 3 console accessory switches that I added - only the radar detector switch is presently in use. I left my back-up camera power on the under console pink/black wire which I also used for the new fuse block relay. I also left the TPMS connected to the I CONV fuse under the passenger side dash as it works nicely there. Did a quick shakedown run late last night and it appears that this has solved my accessory power issues.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0784.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0784.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0792.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0792.jpg.html)

Looking forward in the passenger side rear storage bin: From left you can see battery relocation wires, Valentine 1 unit, new circuit block, and master fuse for circuit block.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0797.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0797.jpg.html)

I ran the fuse block power cable out the back side of the rear storage bin and connected it to the kill switch. I also ran a new ground wire off the cross-member and back into the storage bin for the both the fuse block and radar detector unit.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0794.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0794.jpg.html)

I removed the relay and fuse that I had previously installed in the center console area and made this same area into a junction point where many of the accessory wires come together.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0804.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0804.jpg.html)

Bob, Where did you get the custom battery box?
Where do you mount your V1 base unit? The reason I ask is I have 1-V1 and 4 cars. If I could buy 4 remote display and remove and install the V1 in less than a minute that would be great.

[Locobob]

Bob, Where did you get the custom battery box?
Where do you mount your V1 base unit? The reason I ask is I have 1-V1 and 4 cars. If I could buy 4 remote display and remove and install the V1 in less than a minute that would be great.

I had a local guy custom fab the battery box. My V1 base unit is attached to the halo trim panel - about right in the middle between the seats so it gets a good view.

[Locobob]

Been reading up on alternator whine. Thinking of trying a new ground for the head unit, running it back to the storage bin where I just installed a really solid ground - this is where I would ground an aftermarket amp if I get one someday and from what I reading its best to ground all stereo components in the same location.

[ZZZZZR1]

Robert,

First class engineering and wiring...

VERY IMPRESSIVE!

:saluting:

David

[KILLSHOTS]

Console layout
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0788.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0788.jpg.html)

Most of the interior, missing the shift console since the upholstery shop screwed up my shift boot.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/IMG_0782.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/IMG_0782.jpg.html)
Wish my interior looked like that. That is beautiful, Robert!!

[Locobob]

Still trying to get rid of the alternator whine. At times its very subtle and I can barely hear it, other times its quite loud. I think the volume of it may be related to electrical load, seems louder when the headlights are on. I tried changing the ground point for the stereo but that didn't help any.

[secondchance]

Still trying to get rid of the alternator whine. At times its very subtle and I can barely hear it, other times its quite loud. I think the volume of it may be related to electrical load, seems louder when the headlights are on. I tried changing the ground point for the stereo but that didn't help any.

I will be wiring in the capacitor this weekend. The one I had on the alternator got lost during the engine pull, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall.
I'll take some pics and post. Capacitor trick works!

[cvette98pacecar]

Still trying to get rid of the alternator whine. At times its very subtle and I can barely hear it, other times its quite loud. I think the volume of it may be related to electrical load, seems louder when the headlights are on. I tried changing the ground point for the stereo but that didn't help any.

Bob, When I did my head unit I had a horrific whine. I added two PAC SN1 Noise isolators and it resolved my issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K50HJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Locobob]

I will be wiring in the capacitor this weekend. The one I had on the alternator got lost during the engine pull, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall.
I'll take some pics and post. Capacitor trick works!

Great I'd like to see that, are there any downsides to doing this?

[Locobob]

Bob, When I did my head unit I had a horrific whine. I added two PAC SN1 Noise isolators and it resolved my issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K50HJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been considering a noise filter, did it hurt sound quality any?

[secondchance]

Great I'd like to see that, are there any downsides to doing this?

I had it on 79 L48, 91 ZR-1 and 94 ZR-1. No down side I ran into.

[Locobob]

I had it on 79 L48, 91 ZR-1 and 94 ZR-1. No down side I ran into.

Sounds like a plenum pull though... unless I can plumb it in back where the alternator wire connects to the battery.

[cvette98pacecar]

I've been considering a noise filter, did it hurt sound quality any?

Not a bit.

[Locobob]

Tried pulling the head unit out and laying it on the passenger side carpet with minimal accessories plugged in - still getting alternator whine. Also checked out the front speaker connections and didn't see any grounding issues there.

[Locobob]

Okay so now I tried unplugging the amp/speaker harnesses (4 wire blue and 4 wire white connectors) from the main connection and I'm still getting noise and alternator whine from all four speakers! How is this even possible, they are not connected to the head unit at all. I thought the 2 4 wire connectors were it for the speaker/amp assemblies, is there a separate harness somewhere which powers the amps?

[Locobob]

Reviewing the FSM electrical supplement again and I see that amp power and ground are indeed on a different connector. Getting pretty frustrated with the old Bose stuff, starting to think I should go back to my original plan and just do a aftermarket amp/speaker install. I talked to a car audio guy yesterday, we discussed doing an 8in sub in the storage bin behind the drivers seat, 6x9's in the rear, maybe 5x7's or 5-6in up front. We also discussed compact amps, it would be nice to fit something into the passenger side bin that sits on the upper shelf. Fosgate has their little PBR series that might fit the bill - 300W mono for sub and 300W 4 channel, I could stack them and they would fit nicely, not sure if 300W on the 4 channel is enough though.

[-=Jeff=-]

I never used one of those converters. I made RCA harnesses that plugged into the speaker connectors at the CCM and to the radio RCA out. Then taped the exposed connection.. I had no whine

[Locobob]

I never used one of those converters. I made RCA harnesses that plugged into the speaker connectors at the CCM and to the radio RCA out. Then taped the exposed connection.. I had no whine

I'm getting the whine with the Bose speakers/amps completely disconnected from the converter box so the problem is somewhere in the oem Bose stuff.

[secondchance]

Locobob,

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu303/byongyun/IMG_0634_zps1bd92667.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/byongyun/media/IMG_0634_zps1bd92667.jpg.html)

Tough to see with pic but positive side of the capacitor is connected to the alternator positive terminal and the negative side is connected to the alternator mounting bracket. This works!

[Locobob]

I talked to Dr. Don today. Basically he said my best bet was to either try a power line noise filter or go full aftermarket. He was pretty leery of the capacitor on the alternator idea.

[XfireZ51]

I talked to Dr. Don today. Basically he said my best bet was to either try a power line noise filter or go full aftermarket. He was pretty leery of the capacitor on the alternator idea.

I blew up an alternator that way a very long time ago. :mad:

[cvette98pacecar]

I never used one of those converters. I made RCA harnesses that plugged into the speaker connectors at the CCM and to the radio RCA out. Then taped the exposed connection.. I had no whine

Jeff, I bought a adapter that goes from RCA outputs to the GM connectors. I had a whine so I added the noise suppressors. For 24.00 it was not worth the effort in building one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000301BVY/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[cvette98pacecar]

I talked to Dr. Don today. Basically he said my best bet was to either try a power line noise filter or go full aftermarket. He was pretty leery of the capacitor on the alternator idea.

On my LPE I am going full aftermarket. I am going to try and figure a way additional speakers as the current configuration is horrible. When I am driving long distances I have a habit of putting my left calve over the front speaker.

[Locobob]

I'm kinda favoring just building a really good aftermarket system at this point, my main issue with that (besides being expensive) is trying to find a good spot for an amp or amps. Looking at putting an 8in sub in the drivers side rear storage bin so no room for an amp there. I could put something in the passenger side rear storage but I don't want to clutter it up too much, like to keep at least some storage space there. Wouldn't mind putting an amp at the very bottom of the bin but its only 8x8 and about 3 1/2in tall. Not finding much that fits in that space. Also concerned with heat, amps tend to get hot so I don't want to pack one in somewhere only to have it get cooked. Guess thats the nice thing about the independent Bose amps, they don't kill your interior space.

[cvette98pacecar]

I'm kinda favoring just building a really good aftermarket system at this point, my main issue with that (besides being expensive) is trying to find a good spot for an amp or amps. Looking at putting an 8in sub in the drivers side rear storage bin so no room for an amp there. I could put something in the passenger side rear storage but I don't want to clutter it up too much, like to keep at least some storage space there. Wouldn't mind putting an amp at the very bottom of the bin but its only 8x8 and about 3 1/2in tall. Not finding much that fits in that space. Also concerned with heat, amps tend to get hot so I don't want to pack one in somewhere only to have it get cooked. Guess thats the nice thing about the independent Bose amps, they don't kill your interior space.

Build an L shaped box where the amps are inside the horizontal fixture. I have been thinking about this for years. M&K utilizes a push/pull box where the rear wave of a second sub is open. The wave when it exits the sub will move air across the amp. I can draw you a draft of the box if needed.
I have Bose 901 and a M&K X12 that are over 12 years old in my house. I have tried to upgrade my home sound system twice now and cannot match the sound quality.

http://www.mksound.com/x-series

[secondchance]

Locobob,

I built an extensive system back in 91 for my 91 ZR-1. Although technology has marched on, one major difficulty I encountered back then still is valid. Main challenge was front speakers. In order for any speaker to produce good low to mid frequency is to be in an speaker enclosure and our cars lack any place for decent size enclosure. Fabricating a MDF plate and throwing a speaker on it really won't do anything. Factory front speaker enclosure was custom designed by Bose and tuned port was optimized for the 3" Bose speaker. As such, considering that it's 3" speaker our front speaker/ported enclosure produces pretty good sound. I used the largest after market speaker I could fit in the front OEM enclosure but never could produce level of quality OEM set up has. Rear is not too difficult.
Second time around with my 94, I replaced the head unit, spliced into OEM speaker/amps and added an amp and 10" low profile sub-woofer to augment low frequency. Dealing with limited speaker/enclosure space in the front of our C4s, I am convinced the route I took is about the most optimal solution - just my 2 cents worth...
For the alternator whine, try my capacitor trick. It less then 10 bucks and 15 minutes to install - and it won't blow up an alternator. Don't replace the whole system because of the alternator whine. This noise is not coming through the electrical wire but rather in radio frequency from the alternator. That's why relocating ground and re-routing wires won't solve the problem. I chased alternator whine for a year and rewired the system 5-6 times back in 1980. I know how frustrating it gets.

Link is to a webpage explaining how capacitor eliminates alternator whine, in this case, in aircraft communications head phone - similar to whine coming from speakers.

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182896-1.html?redirected=1

[Locobob]

I just ordered a noise filter, going to try that first. I'll read up on the capacitor idea but it makes me nervous as I don't know anything about it and Dr. Don mentioned something about car fires.

[Locobob]

Making some progress:

Managed to fix the headlight switch illumination issue... ended up using amber LED's with the factory bulb condoms for the backlights. The traction control button is a little extra bright with the LED I used but no biggie - currently this button is unused as my car is a 91 but I figure it may come in handy to have an extra button some day.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0821.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0821.jpg.html)

Center console devices are working great.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0826.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0826.jpg.html)

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_0824.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_0824.jpg.html)

The stereo still has some alternator whine, I think the filter helped a little. I'm just going to live with it for the time being, lost enough of the driving season already.

[GOLDCYLON]

Pure Energy... Dance Now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hF_NsT5U3i0

[Locobob]

Pure Energy... Dance Now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12VUjgYMm1U

Yup, that's going to be it for a little while, gonna drive it!

Next up will be the center console and door arm rest re-upholstery - probably in a few weeks. Seats will get done in a couple of months most likely.

[ghlkal]

Looks great!

Did you ever find a source for the clips behind the radio bezel? I need one of those too ...

[-=Jeff=-]

Robert,

this link has a lot of images of my install.. many at the end are the tablet install I now have..

Might swap back to the App Radio.. Still working it out on the Bench

https://plus.google.com/photos/101338012938494992078/albums/5820003350193526465?banner=pwa

[Locobob]

Looks great!

Did you ever find a source for the clips behind the radio bezel? I need one of those too ...

No I never found a source, I did find my other clip laying around but then lost it again when it popped off inside the console somewhere.

[Locobob]

Robert,

this link has a lot of images of my install.. many at the end are the tablet install I now have..

Might swap back to the App Radio.. Still working it out on the Bench

https://plus.google.com/photos/101338012938494992078/albums/5820003350193526465?banner=pwa

Thanks Jeff, some of those may be helpful going forward. How come you have what looks like tweeters in both the sill panels and in the doors?

[-=Jeff=-]

Ah I actually have:

1" tweeter and 4" in the Sill

in the door is a 6.5" Mid bass

rear is currently a 6.5 woofer, although might swap those for 8s

[Locobob]

Update:

Been driving the car a lot and am really happy with the way these projects turned out.

I still haven't gotten around to getting the upholstery work done on the console or seats.

I traced my stereo noise issue to the rear amps themselves, apparently it was just a coincidence that they went bad around the time I installed the new head unit. I am debating what to do with the amps/speakers still, for now I installed some 50w Bose amps out of a junkyard Infinity - $6 each. They work, and the sound is decent, but its not as good as it was with the 75w/100w combo I had before. Here are the amps, 100w on the left which I believe are intended to drive the woofers on a 99 vette, middle are 75w amps from a C4 vert - they are not labeled as such for some reason, far right is a 50w junkyard bose amp from an Infinity.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_1116.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_1116.jpg.html)


I placed the bluetooth mic on top of the rearview mirror, a few phone calls have confirmed that this is a really good place for it, voice comes through loud and clear.

The back-up cam works pretty well, sometimes the picture is a little fuzzy, I suspect I ran the video wire too close to a power wire somewhere.

The TPMS is awesome, here is what happens when you program the low pressure warning a little too low - on a very cold day it trips the low pressure warning.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/th_IMG_1097.mp4 (http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_1097.mp4)

I decided the steering wheel position was just not quite right for me. I took out the 1in spacer and replaced it with a .5in spacer. Doesn't sound like much of a change but it is noticeable and it feels more natural to me with the .5in spacer. On the negative side I lost just a bit of knee clearance with the swap.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_1100.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_1100.jpg.html)
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp270/locobob68/ZR-1/IMG_1102.jpg (http://s418.photobucket.com/user/locobob68/media/ZR-1/IMG_1102.jpg.html)

[-=Jeff=-]

Robert,

Any progress on a design for your seats?

I am going to order a set in the next couple days.. trying to determine my red/black mix

[BigIke]

Just went through all 33 pages, thanks for it!

What do you mean by loosing knee clearance? I'm 6'3" and was going to do the NRG/ D-shaped steering wheel to gain clearance... Might not if I will indeed loose room in that area.

Thanks
Jay

[Locobob]

Robert,

Any progress on a design for your seats?

I am going to order a set in the next couple days.. trying to determine my red/black mix

No, I'm afraid it's on the back burner at the moment.

[Locobob]

Just went through all 33 pages, thanks for it!

What do you mean by loosing knee clearance? I'm 6'3" and was going to do the NRG/ D-shaped steering wheel to gain clearance... Might not if I will indeed loose room in that area.

Thanks
Jay

I think you misunderstood Ike.... I lost a little knee clearance with the Momo wheel going from the 1.0 inch spacer to the .5 inch spacer - with either spacer width the aftermarket wheel is a net gain for knee clearance over the stock wheel. I am also 6'3" and with the aftermarket wheel I can actually drive with the wheel in the lower tilt position where as before I had it tilted 1 spot up.

[BigIke]

GREAT!!!

I run with mine in the 1 notch up position as well, i want it in the lowest position, this post has solidified this mod! Thanks!

[-=Jeff=-]

BUMP IT UP..

Robert, how are you liking that steering wheel?

[Locobob]

BUMP IT UP..

Robert, how are you liking that steering wheel?

The flat bottom and grip areas took a little getting used to but I'm pretty happy with it now.... although I have been kicking around switching to a different style Momo wheel just for aesthetics.

[-=Jeff=-]

The flat bottom and grip areas took a little getting used to but I'm pretty happy with it now.... although I have been kicking around switching to a different style Momo wheel just for aesthetics.

Which one?

I am liking this one:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Kj0hxMu2L.jpg

[Locobob]

I have been considering switching to the Trek R and then adding some red accents. I like the red on the Commando but I find myself wishing it had the red on the bottom of the wheel rather than the top - which would tie in better with my custom red upholstery.

[-=Jeff=-]

I have been considering switching to the Trek R and then adding some red accents. I like the red on the Commando but I find myself wishing it had the red on the bottom of the wheel rather than the top - which would tie in better with my custom red upholstery.

Let me know when you are ready to sell it.. I might be interested

[Locobob]

Let me know when you are ready to sell it.. I might be interested

Yeah I'll let you know if I decide to try something different, pretty much all the wheels I look at I still feel the need to customize so I may just end up modding the one I've got, we'll see.