402 Build Project Udate

[Jagdpanzer]

Finally had some time to finnish assembling the 402 motor I've had in the works for awhile. Before buttoning up the cam covers and oil sump wanted to make sure the oil galleries in the block and heads were filled and flowing properly before firing the engine for the first time so I put together this pre-oiler rig. Used the regulator and gauges from my leak-down tester to control the air pressure at 10 psi.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/pre-oiler2_zpsa6775a2c.jpg

Converted 2 gallon hand sprayer I picked up at Home Depot. Installed a air line quick connect fitting in place of the safty valve.
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/pre-oiler3_zps2d95894f.jpg

Engine connection point is the plug fitting located at the top side of the oil filter housing. Made a couple of plugs out of delrin to block off the oil cooler fittings. Inserted a short section of clear hose for a flow visual.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/pre-oiler1_zps86fc2563.jpg

[dredgeguy]

Boy does Wazoo have talent. Great Phil and looking forward to seeing it in operation.

[ZZZZZR1]

Boy does Wazoo have talent. Great Phil and looking forward to seeing it in operation.

That's all Phil!!!!

Can't wait to see this in action

:cheers:

David

[Racinfan83]

No doubt that is cool! Get a video up of it working if you can!

AND - on another note - just what does WAZOO stand for?

[Corbusa]

very cool !! thanks

[LGAFF]

about damn time:cheers:

[Jagdpanzer]

about damn time:cheers:

Lee, remember this one?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpj0t2ozPWY

[LGAFF]

HA!

[secondchance]

Fantastic! Can't wait 'till the 402 is in your Z.

[secondchance]

just what does WAZOO stand for?

Washington Area ZR1 Owners Organization.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Awesome Phil!! WAZOO has a great bunch of guys with talent. Thanks for sharing.

[Jagdpanzer]

All together now and ready to swap in:

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/402photo2_zps6ee98e26.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/402photo1_zps1c44e5d1.jpg

[XfireZ51]

Lee, remember this one?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpj0t2ozPWY

Looks pretty stock to me. ;)


Well said.

[USAFPILOT]

want to build me one?

[RHanselman]

Very nice Phil!

Can't wait to see it in action. Maybe the Devil's Triangle next year??

Cheers,

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Phil, I'm so impressed. It was nice seeing it come to fruition for you.

Can't wait to hear it rumble!!=D>

[RHanselman]

Phil,

What CAM's and compression did you go with?

Cheers,
Ron

[Jagdpanzer]

Ron,
12 to 1 on the compression + a little more from Jerry's thinner head gasket. Right now SGC Stage 1 intake and stock exhaust cams. Had intended to go with a set of Pete's cams then my oldest son decided to go to grad school and needed some help with the tuition, you know the rest. Maybe next year though.

[cvette98pacecar]

Phil, she is looking great. But than again I would not expect any less from you.

[RICKYRJ1]

Fantastic! Can't wait 'till the 402 is in your Z.



You mean my car! that engine won't run right in a red car. Lookin forward to the transplant. Great job Phil!

[LilRedCorvette]

Finally had some time to finnish assembling the 402 motor I've had in the works for awhile. Before buttoning up the cam covers and oil sump wanted to make sure the oil galleries in the block and heads were filled and flowing properly before firing the engine for the first time so I put together this pre-oiler rig. Used the regulator and gauges from my leak-down tester to control the air pressure at 10 psi.

Converted 2 gallon hand sprayer I picked up at Home Depot. Installed a air line quick connect fitting in place of the safty valve.

Engine connection point is the plug fitting located at the top side of the oil filter housing. Made a couple of plugs out of delrin to block off the oil cooler fittings. Inserted a short section of clear hose for a flow visual.

Yep...just threw that together, didya... :sign10:

The things you make and know just blow my mind. :worship:

I cannot wait to see this thing run! :cool:

[RHanselman]

Phil,

Do you have a target HP/TQ?

Love your work...

:cheers:

[robrtr]

Beautiful job, Phil. Any chance you'll 'close the circle' by doing the swap at a WAZOO WMD?

:cheers:

Ralph

[Jagdpanzer]

Phil,

Do you have a target HP/TQ?

Love your work...

:cheers:

Ron,
I'd love to see close to 500hp at the wheels and a fat torque curve from 3500 to 6500 rpm.

[Jagdpanzer]

Beautiful job, Phil. Any chance you'll 'close the circle' by doing the swap at a WAZOO WMD?

:cheers:

Ralph

Depending on how things go.
For sure at the end stages of the install and the first fire up.

[Jagdpanzer]

After 19 years under the hood the original motor mount heat shield covers were looking pretty shabby. http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover4_zpsd9dd7d5e.jpg

I've looked around for a while and had no luck finding OEM replacements. I then came across D & H Heat Technology of Mooresville, NC http://www.koolmat.com/index.htm (http://www.koolmat.com/index.htm) who do a lot of Corvette heat related products. I sent them one of the mounts and heat covers and they came up with a C4 Corvette motor mount cover replacement to their own design using a more modern silicone/fiberglass bonded heat shielding material.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover6_zpscf069d0b.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover2_zps6ef44bd6.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover3_zps5f70069e.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover5_zps449cfb56.jpg

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/motormountcover1_zpsfa8b5ed1.jpg

I am very pleased with the way these turned out.
If you are also looking for replacement motor mount heat shield covers I highly recommend this company. They have the paterns now and can fix you right up with a pair.

[Jagdpanzer]

On the the new motor I went with the ATI Super Dampner which has degree markings almost all the way around. The later style LT5s do not come with a pointer like the earlier ones so I made up this one in case I want to do some cam timing later on with the engine in the car.
http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/Degreepointer_zps10aa0871.jpg

[Vette Guy]

Wow! You never fail to continue to impress me!!!
Looking forward to catching up at Carlisle!

Mark

[Pete]

Phil,from what i can see those old covers don't look all that bad,heck mine look worse then those.

Pete

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Phil,

Wow, you always take it to the next level. I should have built my motor after you so I could have learned all of this. Awesome! Like Pete said, even your old covers look 10 times better than mine looks when I pulled the motor. Thanks for sharing as always.

Craig

[RHanselman]

Ron,
I'd love to see close to 500hp at the wheels and a fat torque curve from 3500 to 6500 rpm.

I wish you luck... I think you'll probably do better!

What bore and stroke did you go with to get the 402? I know there's several ways to get there.

Cheers,

[RICKYRJ1]

As always Phil Great Job! Can't wait to see how she runs. Hopefully she will ready to go by Carlisle.

[cvette98pacecar]

I wish you luck... I think you'll probably do better!

What bore and stroke did you go with to get the 402? I know there's several ways to get there.

Cheers,


4 x 4 gives you the 402. 6.58 litres.

[cvette98pacecar]

Phil, I cant wait to see that car run.

[Jagdpanzer]

4 x 4 gives you the 402. 6.58 litres.

As Robert said, the easy math way - 4" bore x 4" stroke

[Jagdpanzer]

Should be firing up the the new motor for the first time around 2:00 tomorrow afternoon. Anyone interested is welcome to to come over.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Should be firing up the the new motor for the first time around 2:00 tomorrow afternoon. Anyone interested is welcome to to come over.

Phil,

If my Learjet was not in service, I would fly right over there to check this out.....lol. Man, I wish I could be there to see and hear it. Best wishes, Craig =D>

[Jagdpanzer]

Here is the new motor freshly installed in my 94:

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/Motorinstalled1_zps10245907.jpg

I would like to especially thank two WAZOO brothers, Dempsey for help stabbing the motor back in (with headers bolted on the motor no less) and Rich for his help today buttoning everything back up and assisting with final checks and startup. The motor came right to life after a couple of short cranks however, it's making a noise at the flywheel end that sounds like rubbing sheet metal which started to fade after a couple minutes running . The rear crankshaft seal also seems to have developed a pretty good leak after just a few minutes running. Anyway had enough of it for today. Will tackle again tomorrow after work. First step will be to pull the transmission and flywheel back off to see what's up with the leaky seal. Then go from there on tracking down the source of the noise. I'm thinking (hoping) they are related.

[RHanselman]

Good luck... Hope it's not too big an issue...

[Pete]

Phil,just a couple of things to check usually when the freez plug is replaced/installed in the back of the crank it could leak have to use loctite 620.

Another could be if you line hone the motor the rear seal housing could be offcenter you might need to drill the screw holes one size bigger.

Most likely freez plug.
Nice job.
Pete

[LGAFF]

Going to have to agree with Pete....mine had a small leak from the freeze plug....and the machine shop did not disturb it when they cleaned and polished...I had my Callaway on the lift, so I had Pete pull the trans....

We also had alot of fun with a steel pilot bearing:censored:

[Jagdpanzer]

On thier LT5 billet cranks Bryant welds the freeze plugs in after installation so if the rear plug is leaking I may have a real headache on my hands.

[Polo-1]

Are you sure they welded the FW side plug? I had mine all welded but that one. This was for both the 402 (moldex) and the 380 (stock re-ground).

Good to see it running Phil
:cheers:

[Marc Haibeck]

Hi Phil,

If the end plug is welded it must be welded 360 degrees. If it is tack welded it will distort between the welds and leak.

You might be able to seal it by driving the existing plug further into the crank and installing a second plug behind it. There should be about .5 inch of bore available behind the plug before it intersects with diagonal galley from the crank arm.

Since the bore for the plug will be rough from the weld I suggest sealing the new plug with epoxy.

You can test for a leak by installing the exhaust system without the transmission. That way you can visually inspect the repair with the engine running.

Best of luck.

[Jagdpanzer]

Pulled the tranmission and bellhousing off this evening and found the source of both issues. The metal rubbing sound was from the valley drain tube coming in contact with the new McLeod aluminum flywheel I'm using now.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/FWRub1_zps1827de7b.jpg

The McLeod flwheel is about 8 lbs. heavier and thicker on outer radius of the front side than the Fidanza I was running before. A a little contouring with a ballpeen hammer will take care of this issue.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/FWRub2_zps1b271e3e.jpg

The source of the oil leak is from a hole in the the welded in rear crankshaft freeze plug.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg333/pwasinger/Crankplugleak1_zps83acf66b.jpg

As you can see the plug is welded in a full 360 degrees. The pin hole leak is at the 5 o'clock position.

Marc, I will follow your suggestion of epoxying in a new plug behind the old one give it a running test before putting everything back together.

[XfireZ51]

Phil,

Ask Lgaff about the McLeod. He was running one on the 90 I believe. What was the point of switching out the Fidanza?

[Jagdpanzer]

Dom,
I wanted to try out a heavier flywheel this time and the price was right.

Lee,
Would you mind sharing your McLeod experience?

[rkreigh]

maybe a little JB weld. be better if you could spot weld it to seal it up.

glad you found the problem so quickly and the beast is again ALIVE!

but who the hell am I telling, Phil has forgotten more about LT5s and mechanical stuff than I'll ever know :neutral:

thanks for posting up all the pics, car is beautiful hope to see it at carlisle, but if not let me know if you need a spare vette

you can drive the ZR-1 or the turbo Z06 up!

cya

[LGAFF]

I was having an issue with the clutch not disengaging, it might have been a perfect storm of issues:

1)The rear crank plug was leaking on the flywheel
2)The Mcleods offset was different than the Fidanza causing it to "closer" to the clutch
3)I was running a weighted Centerforce pressure plate, which has caused issues with disengaging for a few other folks I knew

In the end I cannot say which one specifically caused the issue, but all is well at this point:)

[XfireZ51]

Lee,

Thanks. I thought I remembered there was a difference between the Fidanza and McLeod.


Phil,

What was the result you were looking for using a heavier FW?

[Dynomite]

be better if you could spot weld it to seal it up.



Exactly what I was thinking......just a touch with a stick and done....not too much heat at all ......after you touch it...just hit it with some cold water to make sure the little heat you generate does not migrate to the seal. Then back it up with JB Weld.

Then dress the inside up with a file and emory cloth for any splatter.

[LGAFF]

There is always 1 pain in the *** with these builds, but with 32 valves, 32 lifters, DOHCs, liners, complex oiling systems....something is going to be a PITA.

I had the same leak and also one "new" lifter that periodically bleeds down at idle and ticks........

But hey for a hack mechanic I thought I did a decent job!

[Jagdpanzer]

Dom,
Reducing cyclic irregularity at lower engine speeds.

[LGAFF]

Dom,
Reducing cyclic irregularity at lower engine speeds.

Same thing I was looking for, or was it because it was cheap .......now that I think about it...it was because it was cheaper

[FU]

Got my finger's crossed for you Phil :cheers:

There is all way's "something" with these build's. An LT5 isn't like building your small block Chev.
Patience is some thing I no longer posses.

[XfireZ51]

Dom,
Reducing cyclic irregularity at lower engine speeds.

Phil,

IOW, you're trying to control the idle surging or at low rpms? That's actually something controlled thru the calibration. Motors w larger cams
will do that and changes need to be made to the cal.

[XfireZ51]

Same thing I was looking for, or was it because it was cheap .......now that I think about it...it was because it was cheaper

Lee,

Knowing you, it was the latter.

[Marc Haibeck]

Phil,

If it is a pin hole, you could try to swage it shut by hitting it with a pointed punch.

[LGAFF]

might try loctite 290, then one of the other alternatives to seal it

For Porosity Sealing
1. Clean area and apply localized heat to the area to approximately 121°C.
2. Allow to cool to approximately 85°C and apply the product.

[We Gone]

Phil,

Very nice job, sounds like you have the issues worked out. After following all the WAZOO guys exploits I wish we had a group like it here in the south. Good Luck on the finishing touches. (We did have Ted for a while)

Steve