Paul Workman
07-02-2011, 09:10 AM
Dave Johnson (owner of the blue NINJA TURTLE) and I were talking about his Fidanza flywheel and clutch disc options. I mentioned to Dave that mine, with the guidance of friends here on this site, installed and works quietly without a hitch. He asked about parts used and related part numbers, and I thought I'd post them here for y'all, in case someone is interested...
I got my Veleo pressure plate from AutoZone, lifetime warranty for about $250 a couple years ago. It sold under the name "Duralast". Veleo pressure plates are no longer made - company went belly up, is the rumor. Bob G is using a push-type (dual disc) setup from RAM at a really decent price. (Bob or Pete would be the ones to ask for details.)
The Fidanza, being aluminum, requires longer thread than the stock cast iron FW. AND, the shearing load is best addressed by the shank of the bolt near the top of the thread (where the bolt enters a recess in the FW intended for that purpose). APR bolts are available as a kit from SRP (http://www.zr1products.com/#!products). The kit I got included the proper drill bit and tap needed to drill and tap the FW** for the added length. Cost is $100 + S&H. Some have used grade 8s from the local hardware store - apparently without problems mention here (if any). I went with SRP's bolts.
Sprung - hub clutch disc from Centerforce. Part # 381039 from Summit Racing; $199. (http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=381039&dds=1) It is actually a part number for a late 90s LT1 Camaro or Firebird. The sprung hub goes a long way toward quieting in conjunction with the single mass aluminum FW.
Speaking of clutch repairs, worth mentioning is Bill Boudreau's (http://www.zfdoc.com/) C-beam plates - if for nothing else - are worth every penny just to ease removal and re-installation of the C-beam. AND, if you've experienced some squirming or "kicking out" of the rear end on hard acceleration, there's a good chance the holes in your beam have become elongated and the differential is squirming under load (causing at least some of the stability issue). I can attest to a significant improvement in stability since I installed the plates (on the Z and my previous LT1 car). (BTW, my C-Beam holes were "egged" a bit - noticed on my first inspection - attesting to the stability issue.)
Here are a couple more commonly discussed here, and their part numbers (for parts that seem to work well with my mods...)
The new GM part number for the knock sensor for the 90 LT5 (sensor is MY specific, apparently) is 216-94. (Old number = 10456075)
Had some guys experiencing oil pressure switch failures; getting brittle and blowing out to spray oil on the headers! It is a common switch that controls the oil light on the dash: AutoZone part # PS 206
Spark plugs: Opinions vary, but believe it or not, the standard copper AC/Delcos #41-602s are cheap and work well...Don't think so? Ask Pete what his green monster is running! (BTW, Pete has a picture hanging in his shop of his car lifting at least one front wheel, and that was with DRs and the standard 3.45 rear gear too!)
Accel injectors, Part# 150821 from Summit Racing, cost $588 +S/H for 16.
PVC valves:
Left side (GM) = CV769C
Right side = CV913C
I lost my GM part number for the coil packs and spark plug wires, which would be nice to include here. (Feel free to add to this list!)
Well, Dave.... I hope this answers yer questions.;)
P.
PS: Mebby one of y'all can help me too: Some time ago someone posted a site link to a Weather Pack connector dealer that had a list of part numbers for the LT5/ZR-1. Anyone happen to have that? (I need to replace a few connector plugs - dang 20 year old brittle SOBs...)
TIA,
P.
I got my Veleo pressure plate from AutoZone, lifetime warranty for about $250 a couple years ago. It sold under the name "Duralast". Veleo pressure plates are no longer made - company went belly up, is the rumor. Bob G is using a push-type (dual disc) setup from RAM at a really decent price. (Bob or Pete would be the ones to ask for details.)
The Fidanza, being aluminum, requires longer thread than the stock cast iron FW. AND, the shearing load is best addressed by the shank of the bolt near the top of the thread (where the bolt enters a recess in the FW intended for that purpose). APR bolts are available as a kit from SRP (http://www.zr1products.com/#!products). The kit I got included the proper drill bit and tap needed to drill and tap the FW** for the added length. Cost is $100 + S&H. Some have used grade 8s from the local hardware store - apparently without problems mention here (if any). I went with SRP's bolts.
Sprung - hub clutch disc from Centerforce. Part # 381039 from Summit Racing; $199. (http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=381039&dds=1) It is actually a part number for a late 90s LT1 Camaro or Firebird. The sprung hub goes a long way toward quieting in conjunction with the single mass aluminum FW.
Speaking of clutch repairs, worth mentioning is Bill Boudreau's (http://www.zfdoc.com/) C-beam plates - if for nothing else - are worth every penny just to ease removal and re-installation of the C-beam. AND, if you've experienced some squirming or "kicking out" of the rear end on hard acceleration, there's a good chance the holes in your beam have become elongated and the differential is squirming under load (causing at least some of the stability issue). I can attest to a significant improvement in stability since I installed the plates (on the Z and my previous LT1 car). (BTW, my C-Beam holes were "egged" a bit - noticed on my first inspection - attesting to the stability issue.)
Here are a couple more commonly discussed here, and their part numbers (for parts that seem to work well with my mods...)
The new GM part number for the knock sensor for the 90 LT5 (sensor is MY specific, apparently) is 216-94. (Old number = 10456075)
Had some guys experiencing oil pressure switch failures; getting brittle and blowing out to spray oil on the headers! It is a common switch that controls the oil light on the dash: AutoZone part # PS 206
Spark plugs: Opinions vary, but believe it or not, the standard copper AC/Delcos #41-602s are cheap and work well...Don't think so? Ask Pete what his green monster is running! (BTW, Pete has a picture hanging in his shop of his car lifting at least one front wheel, and that was with DRs and the standard 3.45 rear gear too!)
Accel injectors, Part# 150821 from Summit Racing, cost $588 +S/H for 16.
PVC valves:
Left side (GM) = CV769C
Right side = CV913C
I lost my GM part number for the coil packs and spark plug wires, which would be nice to include here. (Feel free to add to this list!)
Well, Dave.... I hope this answers yer questions.;)
P.
PS: Mebby one of y'all can help me too: Some time ago someone posted a site link to a Weather Pack connector dealer that had a list of part numbers for the LT5/ZR-1. Anyone happen to have that? (I need to replace a few connector plugs - dang 20 year old brittle SOBs...)
TIA,
P.