FX3 Shocks

[RedRiderZR1]

What year shocks can be interchanged between ZR-1s. I may need shocks and looking to swap some out. But curious which ones will fit my car/actuators. My car is a 1990.

Thanks.

[GOLDCYLON]

What year shocks can be interchanged between ZR-1s. I may need shocks and looking to swap some out. But curious which ones will fit my car/actuators. My car is a 1990.

Thanks.

Your car being a 90 the Bilsteins for MY FX-3 equipped cars for 89-91 will fit for you. 92 was the shock MY change and remained the same until 95. The shocks didnt really change but the top gears did that rotate the insides. All actuators from MY 89 to MY 95 will fit ALL FX-3shocks.

http://www.captainzcnc.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/shockgearsrevised.jpg

[secondchance]

What year shocks can be interchanged between ZR-1s. I may need shocks and looking to swap some out. But curious which ones will fit my car/actuators. My car is a 1990.

Thanks.

1990 seems to be 0113. I boght a whole set for my 1994 last year and very happy with it.
Give them a call. They may sell individually also.
http://www.shox.com/appguide/shoxshop/productsdisplay.php

You were not quite clear as to why you are thinking of replacing them. Shock worn out due to mileage/years or throwing codes?

[-=Jeff=-]

if you buy 92-95 FX3 shocks you would also need the 92-95 FX3 controller as well

[GOLDCYLON]

if you buy 92-95 FX3 shocks you would also need the 92-95 FX3 controller as well

Unless you replace the top gear to the earlier options. Yes

[secondchance]

I am not so sure. Based on the part number for Shox.com, 90-95 list the same actuator.

Note the stop lengths are different but the gear itselef is the same.

[-=Jeff=-]

I am not so sure. Based on the part number for Shox.com, 90-95 list the same actuator.

Note the stop lengths are different but the gear itselef is the same.

correct the actuators are the same

[GOLDCYLON]

The actuators are the same for all FX-3 equipped cars from 1989-1995. The top gear is the only change to the shock. If your 92 and up FX-3 car commanded the actuators with 89-91 shocks on it without a top gear change the actuator would command a long ertravel than the top gear would allow until it eventually breaks all the nylon gears and ultimately timing out on all for corners. Unless you change out the top gears and the FX-3 controller box.

[-=Jeff=-]

The actuators are the same for all FX-3 equipped cars from 1989-1995. The top gear is the only change to the shock. If your 92 and up FX-3 car commanded the actuators with 89-91 shocks on it without a top gear change the actuator would command a long ertravel than the top gear would allow until it eventually breaks all the nylon gears and ultimately timing out on all for corners. Unless you change out the top gears and the FX-3 controller box.

this is if you used 89-91 shocks with a 92-95 controller.. if he used 92-95 shocks and 92-95 controller no other changes needed

[GOLDCYLON]

this is if you used 89-91 shocks with a 92-95 controller.. if he used 92-95 shocks and 92-95 controller no other changes needed


Correct, but the 89-91 shocks are readially available so thats the COA I would advise.

[-=Jeff=-]

Correct, but the 89-91 shocks are readially available so thats the COA I would advise.

makes sense, Both set are readily avail. then stay to your year

but if he found used ones ( like the 2 sets Dominic has) then he could do things different

[-=Jeff=-]

I have to wonder that there is an internal difference as well, since the top gear is different on the 8991 vs the 92-95 is there any known info on that?

[GOLDCYLON]

makes sense, Both set are readily avail. then stay to your year

but if he found used ones ( like the 2 sets Dominic has) then he could do things different


If I remember right Doms have Morcca valving for X-crossing and DRM released and upgrade FX-3 controller for that option as well

[GOLDCYLON]

I have to wonder that there is an internal difference as well, since the top gear is different on the 8991 vs the 92-95 is there any known info on that?


The valveing internally could be different but I doubt it. I sure havent seen any. Anybody taken a sazinall between the two out there yet?

[RedRiderZR1]

Your car being a 90 the Bilsteins for MY FX-3 equipped cars for 89-91 will fit for you. 92 was the shock MY change and remained the same until 95. The shocks didnt really change but the top gears did that rotate the insides. All actuators from MY 89 to MY 95 will fit ALL FX-3shocks.



http://www.captainzcnc.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/shockgearsrevised.jpg

Thanks for the info. So from what I have read on here, it looks like I need the 89-91 shocks since the gearing is different on 92-95 shocks. I was looking at buying the 2 sets of Morocco valved shocks being sold here. But his shocks are 92. So his shocks have the longer gearing. So I guess I should find some 89-91 shocks.

Thanks for all the replies. It helps me out a lot. :cheers:

[-=Jeff=-]

Thanks for the info. So from what I have read on here, it looks like I need the 89-91 shocks since the gearing is different on 92-95 shocks. I was looking at buying the 2 sets of Morocco valved shocks being sold here. But his shocks are 92. So his shocks have the longer gearing. So I guess I should find some 89-91 shocks.

Thanks for all the replies. It helps me out a lot. :cheers:

Or buy them with his spare controller.. then use that

[RedRiderZR1]

1990 seems to be 0113. I boght a whole set for my 1994 last year and very happy with it.
Give them a call. They may sell individually also.
http://www.shox.com/appguide/shoxshop/productsdisplay.php

You were not quite clear as to why you are thinking of replacing them. Shock worn out due to mileage/years or throwing codes?

Well here is the thing. Not sure I am needing shocks for sure. I need to get the car up on a lift and check things out. But when I drive the car it shakes violently at around 55MPH. The car also feels soft. The setting on the FX3 was on the softest setting, so I thought I would switch it to the hardest setting and see what happened. Much smoother ride at 55MPH. Still a little shimmy but nowhere near the shake that the car had on its softest setting.

So thinking that shocks are shot (at least on the front). Hear a clunk going over speed bumps as well (on the front, not the rear) But it all comes to getting under it and checking around. But the shock setting pretty much stopping the shake makes me think it is the shocks. Car has been sitting for some time, so not sure what it is. BTW, the car is not throwing any codes. Do bad shocks throw codes or is it the FX3 system that throws them. The FX3 system seems to be working fine.

Greg

[secondchance]

How many miles?

[RedRiderZR1]

How many miles?

99k

[GOLDCYLON]

But when I drive the car it shakes violently at around 55MPH.

Maybe you lost a wheel weight?


Do bad shocks throw codes or is it the FX3 system that throws them. The FX3 system seems to be working fine.
Greg

Usually the actuators is the culprit, but I have seen a bad shock shaft and bad top gears as well. Its the FX3 system controller and CCM that sets the codes after querrying the status of the shocks

[GOLDCYLON]

99k

Others may argue but 100k on those shocks and IMHO its time to replace them. Do you see any oily fluid stains on the shock bodies. I beleive max life on a Bilstein is about 75K

[PhillipsLT5]

Car has been sitting for some time, so not sure what it is.
Flat spots on tires?

[GOLDCYLON]

Car has been sitting for some time, so not sure what it is.
Flat spots on tires?


Another great Guess Phil :jawdrop:

[RedRiderZR1]

Flat spots on tires was my first thought before I even started the car to drive it. So I expected a possible rough ride. But the clunking coming from the front end over speed bumps and changing the shocks to the hardest setting pretty much stopped it (but not completely). So tires may be some of it I'm guessing. But something is loose up there. Like I mentioned, ride seems a bit spongy as well.

But this is all guess work. Until I can get it on a lift and see whats going on up there, I'm shooting in the dark. But just find it odd that changing the shock setting gets rid of it. But I will have to look at the tires and balancing as well.
Hopefully tomorrow.

Thanks.
Greg

[secondchance]

RedRider,

My guess based on experience is;

1. Shaking most likely is from either flat spot or tires being not balanced. Also,severely wornout "A' arm bushings can induce shaking.
2. Clunking noise, most likely, is from worn out bushings.
3. At 99k, it is time for new shocks.

Just my thoughts.:cheers:

[PhillipsLT5]

Get tires road force tested

[GOLDCYLON]

All above are great suggestions. Id start with the tires the first as they are the easiest and move on from there. GC

[RedRiderZR1]

Road force tested. Never heard of that before. Looked it up, that would definitely be a good thing to check out. Will look into that. All great ideas and I will check them all out. Thanks so much for all of your ideas. Gives me a good list of things to check out.

Greg

[GOLDCYLON]

Lots of great folks here who are always happy to help. Post up what you find to help the next guy out ;) :cheers:

[RedRiderZR1]

Lots of great folks here who are always happy to help. Post up what you find to help the next guy out ;) :cheers:

Definitely will do that. :cheers:

[tomtom72]

Not to complicate your diagnostics RR. I have a 90 also and my car sat thru 14.5 yrs with it's original owner only putting 7400 miles in that time span. I buy the car and have it maybe 3 yrs and maybe high 20k on it total. I start to notice that over regular undulations on a highways, not pot holes, the car started to float & cycle what I thought was excessively, and scrape the spoiler and I had to go up in shock setting to stop it. At first ( say about 20k miles ) just going from tour to sport did the trick, but by about 25K miles I had to use performance.

I did the old school shock bounce test and eyed up the tubes for excessive oil...both were negative to inconclusive in results. I bought a new set on line and the floating & scraping went away....no other suspension work was done at the same time. I had a hard time admitting to myself that my shocks were worn out with so few miles. At almost 100k I would put new shocks on the list.

The clunking over bumps I agree is proly the A bushings. I did mine around 40k. I cheated & bought NOS A arms complete. I also redid the sway bar mts & end links. I never realized I had some slop in the steering till I put the new parts in. I just think I'm trying to say that we own 20 yr old stuff & it don't last forever no matter if you use it or not!

Sorry to so long winded! :o

:cheers:
Tom

[RedRiderZR1]

Not to complicate your diagnostics RR. I have a 90 also and my car sat thru 14.5 yrs with it's original owner only putting 7400 miles in that time span. I buy the car and have it maybe 3 yrs and maybe high 20k on it total. I start to notice that over regular undulations on a highways, not pot holes, the car started to float & cycle what I thought was excessively, and scrape the spoiler and I had to go up in shock setting to stop it. At first ( say about 20k miles ) just going from tour to sport did the trick, but by about 25K miles I had to use performance.

I did the old school shock bounce test and eyed up the tubes for excessive oil...both were negative to inconclusive in results. I bought a new set on line and the floating & scraping went away....no other suspension work was done at the same time. I had a hard time admitting to myself that my shocks were worn out with so few miles. At almost 100k I would put new shocks on the list.

The clunking over bumps I agree is proly the A bushings. I did mine around 40k. I cheated & bought NOS A arms complete. I also redid the sway bar mts & end links. I never realized I had some slop in the steering till I put the new parts in. I just think I'm trying to say that we own 20 yr old stuff & it don't last forever no matter if you use it or not!

Sorry to so long winded! :o

:cheers:
Tom

No worries on being long winded. Its all good info. I did put the car up on the lift. I spun all 4 wheels and they are all flat spotted pretty bad. I also noticed some play in the drivers front wheel. Bushings all "look" good. Everything felt solid. Shock are dry. But I do agree, some new shocks wouldn't be a bad idea. But it seems the shocks set to performance hide a lot of the shake from the bad flat spotted tires. Get over 80 it feels pretty good. :)
Shakes good at 55 and 78 so stay below or above that and your good. No shake on city streets, feels good then. But tires are definitely needed and front left work needed as well first. Go from there.

Thanks.
Greg

[GOLDCYLON]

No worries on being long winded. Its all good info. I did put the car up on the lift. I spun all 4 wheels and they are all flat spotted pretty bad. I also noticed some play in the drivers front wheel. Bushings all "look" good. Everything felt solid. Shock are dry. But I do agree, some new shocks wouldn't be a bad idea. But it seems the shocks set to performance hide a lot of the shake from the bad flat spotted tires. Get over 80 it feels pretty good. :)
Shakes good at 55 and 78 so stay below or above that and your good. No shake on city streets, feels good then. But tires are definitely needed and front left work needed as well first. Go from there.

Thanks.
Greg

Cool news great, well time for new tires. Let us you know if you need any help getting her back on the road. We drivers need to stick together. Im a big believer that if you dont actually drive these cars around they tend to get these types of problems. I found the best price for my shocks at eshock.com. Still pricey little bastagges. Tirerack and dicount tires the best deal for the tires. GC

[GOLDCYLON]

Not to complicate your diagnostics RR. I have a 90 also and my car sat thru 14.5 yrs with it's original owner only putting 7400 miles in that time span. I buy the car and have it maybe 3 yrs and maybe high 20k on it total. I start to notice that over regular undulations on a highways, not pot holes, the car started to float & cycle what I thought was excessively, and scrape the spoiler and I had to go up in shock setting to stop it. At first ( say about 20k miles ) just going from tour to sport did the trick, but by about 25K miles I had to use performance.

I did the old school shock bounce test and eyed up the tubes for excessive oil...both were negative to inconclusive in results. I bought a new set on line and the floating & scraping went away....no other suspension work was done at the same time. I had a hard time admitting to myself that my shocks were worn out with so few miles. At almost 100k I would put new shocks on the list.

The clunking over bumps I agree is proly the A bushings. I did mine around 40k. I cheated & bought NOS A arms complete. I also redid the sway bar mts & end links. I never realized I had some slop in the steering till I put the new parts in. I just think I'm trying to say that we own 20 yr old stuff & it don't last forever no matter if you use it or not!

Sorry to so long winded! :o

:cheers:
Tom


T its one thong to be long winded. Its completely another thing when your firends here always want to hear what you say to help with a problem area. With a beer :cheers:

[GOLDCYLON]

Car has been sitting for some time, so not sure what it is.
Flat spots on tires?


Good call Phil :cheers:

[PhillipsLT5]

I agree GC, Drive EM

[tomtom72]

Greg, thanks for not thinking that I was just throwing stuff out there to waste your money on! :cheers:

Daryl, thanks for the reminder that all of us try to help one another....me included! It's just I worry that if I leave something out, because I think I'm going too long, it will be the one thing needed to help a BOB get to the answer. I'd be happy to hoist a few with you any time! :cheers:

Oh, forgot this about the shocks. ( here I go again!:o ) If you buy new ones Greg they do not come with new upper bushings, they are optional and not available from e-shocks or any of those type guys. I got mine from DRM, call Randy as he is excellent to deal with. A word of caution on the install!!!!

There is a measurement for the height of the shock gear to sit proud of the actuator cup, 5 mm and that's an after torquing the top nut on the shaft to 22 n/m (?). The measurement & T/Q values are in the FSM, don't trust my memory! Here is the issue with replacing the old bushings. They take a "set" and the new ones have not. This could yield a bad "installed in the frame with the car's weight " 5mm reading. The result usually is the gear on the actuator breaks, or the shock gear, or both. This happened to Ron K our former president. I followed the thread here but I can't find it again! Anyway, my stupid solution if I ever get around to installing the new ones I bought would be to leave off the actuators, unplug the brain box, and drive on them for awhile to get them to compress. I don't know what Ron's resolution to the issue was specifically....so I just filed my "answer" away for later.

:cheers:
Tom