Freak electrical fire yesterday...

[Paul Workman]

After 16 years and two cars, the pigtail on my Battery Tender wore a hole in the insulation (the negative wire, as it were) where it drapes over the edge of the gill panel when in use.

When stored, it is coiled up and tucked between the battery and the inner fender. And, that's when the exposed NEG wire accidentally came in contact with the spring clamp attached to the POS battery terminal.

POW! Instantly the negative wire welded itself to the positive spring clamp and the wire between the two battery terminals instantly went orange hot! The wire insulation burst into flames directly UNDER the ECM!

Before I could react, the wire melted, opening the path between the battery terminals and it was over except my heart was still jumping out of my chest!

Note to self: encase that pigtail in a protective wire loom! And, my thought would be for anyone using battery maintainers to "loom" the wires as a hedge against the unthinkable!

.

[WARP TEN]

Scary Paul. Glad the wire melted through before "the full catastrophe"! When and where did it happen? How did you notice it?--Bob

[Dynomite]

I am the only one that disconnects the battery negative cable
Just like ALL the batteries on the Walmart shelf

I used to use battery tenders (many of them) on tractors, ATVs, trucks, cars and had electrical extension cords running all over in the shed. I figured there was more chance of fire than damage from a sulfated/dead battery.

I finally got rid of all electrical extension cords and just disconnected the battery negative terminals. I have found that over winter storage (including the Z) and even compared to a week of leaving the battery connected there is a BIG difference in battery condition (with disconnected negative battery cable) with all batteries now fully charged condition all the time with the Disconnect Switch (I make sure the battery is FULLY CHARGED before disconnecting the battery negative cable)

From experience I get normal battery life using the battery negative cable disconnect method with no issues (not even an issue of wearing out the battery side connect stud on the Z)

Even after several months of battery disconnect I can reconnect the battery and the Z (as well as all other tractors, ATV, trucks, cars) start normally. And....I have NO battery cable connection corrosion and have possibly reduced corrosion of ALL ground connections on frame and engine block.

The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS

[XfireZ51]

I also simply disconnect the (-) BAT cable for winter storage or extended periods when car won't be used. I had one of those cable shutoffs in your pic on my 84. Got rid of it when it became impossible to start the car with it on no matter how hard I tightened it.

[GOLDCYLON]

Yikes Paul! We don't need a Phoenix III

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I also simply disconnect the (-) BAT cable for winter storage or extended periods when car won't be used. I had one of those cable shutoffs in your pic on my 84. Got rid of it when it became impossible to start the car with it on no matter how hard I tightened it.

I have these Disconnects on 6 or 7 vehicles and only have to finger tight to start any and all vehicles. When finger tight all vehicles charge perfectly through the connector. I just lift the hood about 6 inches and can disconnect or connect the battery easily using the knob. The negative post is on the outside of the battery easily accessible.

[efnfast]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Yikes Paul! We don't need a Phoenix III

yeah, I'll second that.

[Top Toy]

Whew! Good thing you were there to catch it!

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Sorry to hear that P! Glad to hear you and the Z are okay!!! Thanks for the reminder to be careful and check our connections and equipment. Sometimes it’s hard to see that stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[tf95ZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I am the only one that disconnects the battery negative cable

What about radio pre-sets, alarms, etc.?