CTS-V Brakes

[XfireZ51]

Anyone know if the CTS-V brakes are compatible or could be subbed for the
C6Z brakes?

[LGAFF]

Camaros have Brembos also....might be another resource, I do know that a few people have coverted Porsches Big Red Brake Calipers

[LGAFF]

Looks like a spacer may be needed there is a post on CF on putting them on the C5

[XfireZ51]

Lee,

I think the spacer is required for wheel clearance. I don't have that issue w the C6Z wheels. The Brembos I currently have appear to push the wheel outward for the same reason on the C4. BTW, I contacted Brembo and they said they made some C4 brake kits but "unofficially" and not a catalog item.
The fronts stick out further than with the C5 brake rotor I had on #474. So I'm thinking that w C6Z brakes, I may be able to pull wheel back inward a bit.
Otherwise the Brembos were fine w the 17" 5 spokes and stock ZR-1 offset
Maybe Locobob could shed some light.

[Aurora40]

My understanding is the CTS-V caliper attaches much closer to the center of the knuckle. So on a Corvette (C6) knuckle it would stick out incredibly far.

Since they all need an adapter on a C4 anyway, perhaps that could be compensated for in the adapter?

If you could get them to work, it would be awesome. Because they are great brakes and can be had for disgustingly cheap. I've seen all 4 take-off calipers go for like $300-400 a few times.

[LGAFF]

From C5 CF forum

I installed my CTS-V/Z06 brake setup today and I figured I might as well make a writeup while I'm at it, since there are so many questions surrounding the conversion and whats needed. Please feel free to add info and correct anything that you think may not be right.

Here you go:

1. Whats needed:

A set of 2004-2007 CTS-V Calipers (Brembo) or 2006+ Corvette Z06 Calipers (PBR). The CTS-V Calipers are 4 piston, the Z06 calipers are 6 piston. However, its been said that the 4 piston Brembo (CTS-V) are better suited to track duty than the Corvette calipers, but its your pick. The CTS-V caliper bolt up without the need for a bracket. These can be found on GM Parts Direct, or eBay.

A pair of 2006+ Corvette Z06 Rotors. Part # 19121787. These can be had for a total of $239 shipped (for both) from GM Parts Direct.

Brake Hoses. These are must be custom tailored to this application, because the stock lines nor the Corvette/CTS lines will fit properly. These can be obtained for $75 from Flynbye Performance LLC.

You will also need some other misc. parts that I will mention later. These include copper brake hose washers, (8) Grade 8 M12 or 1/2" washers, DOT 3/4 Brake Fluid, and possibly wheel spacers.

Tools required include a full socket set with ratchets, a ft/lb torque wrench, 12mm and 7/16 line wrenches, jack and jackstands (or lift).

2. Wheel Clearance:

If you have stock 56mm offset wheels, they WILL NOT clear either caliper. You will either need to get wheels with a 41mm or less offset, or get wheel spacers. I just purchased stock offset rims, so I went with the wheel spacer option. More on that later.

3. The Install:

Heres what my stock caliper and rotor looked like after years of abuse. I purchased this car 3 years ago, and this is the first time I'm doing the front brakes.

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 112KB.

First order was to get all the old stuff off. You can remove the caliper bracket and caliper as one assembly, just remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the spindle, pry the caliper off the rotor (mine was stuck due to the huge rust lip on the outer edge of the rotor) and set the caliper on a bungee cord for support. Leave it connected for now. Rotors were rusted to the hubs, a few good blows with a rubber mallet freed them and they were off. Lots of rust on the floor.

New rotor next to old rotor:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 106KB.

Now comes time for changing wheel studs if you don't have the offset on your wheels to clear the calipers. This was the worst part of the job, pounding out the old studs with a sledgehammer (regular hammer wouldn't do it) and installing the new ones. The studs were very rusty and corroded, so I soaked them in PB Blaster before attempting to remove them.

Studs out:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 85KB.

Next install the new studs. I ordered the Eibach Pro-Spacer 15mm 1967-02 Camaro hub centric wheel spacer kit to give me sufficient clearance. The difference between my wheels and the Corvette wheel offset is 16mm, so 15mm is still plenty of clearance. Eibach's part number is 90.6.15.033. They are some quality pieces - machined aluminum, "Made in Germany" engraved on the sides. To install the studs, insert the stud into the rear of the hub, put a couple M12 washers on, thread on an M12 grade 8 nut, and zip it down with an impact wrench. It will pull the stud into the hole, seating it against the hub. Once it touches the hub, stop turning it, otherwise you may stretch the threads. Beware that the nut will get extremely hot, I used anti-sieze on the threads as a lubricant, and PB Blaster to cool the nut off.

New studs installed:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 97KB.

Now that the new studs are installed, you can begin assembling the brakes. Take a wire brush and make sure to get any visible surface rust off the face of the hub. If there is rust on there, the new rotor may not seat all the way on the hub, causing alignment issues. Once the hub is free from rust and clean, put some anti-size on the center of the hub as well as on the wheel studs, and install your new rotor.

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 91KB.

Next, get your new caliper and do a test fitment. The new caliper will install the same way as the old caliper bracket did, mounting holes are the same, as well as the thread size and thread pitch. However, you will need washers to space the caliper so it sits evenly on the rotor. I used (2) M12 washers on each bolt, and it spaced it out perfectly. Looking down from the top of the caliper, there was a small gap between each pad and rotor. If the gap is not even, you will not get proper braking. I picked the washers up from Advance Auto, they were $.94 per bag which includes 2 washers.

Here you can see the washers and their placement:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 58KB.

Another view:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 60KB.

Caliper centered over rotor:

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 101KB.

Now that you have your rotor on and your caliper bolted up, check your wheel spoke to caliper clearance. Grab your wheel and slide it on the studs, if it goes all the way on and you still have a couple mm between the spokes and the caliper, you're set. If not, you'll need wheel spacers.

Caliper and rotor assembly:
(Notice bleeders are upside down - I was only test fitting, this caliper belongs on the other side so the bleeder valves face upwards).

[IMG]http://forums.*************.com/images/statusicon/wol_error.gif[/IMG]This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x768 and weights 99KB.

Wheel on studs, not enough clearance without spacers:

Here's the wheel spacers I purchased:

EDIT: If you want to purchase them from Advance Auto, the part # is 906150331.
.

As you can see, unlike regular spacers, they are hub centric, meaning they fit directly on the rotor and maintain the center connection between wheel and hub. Generic spacers don't have that feature, and instead place the wheel to hub alignment solely on the wheel studs and lug nuts.

[Aurora40]

That's good to know. I read a thread on CF where someone said they tried it, and the mounting points were not the same. Guess that's a load of crap. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Can you post a link to that thread? I can't find it.

[LGAFF]

I thought this site would block a post


http://forums.corvettexxxxforum.com/...tried-yet.html

take the triple XXX out

[Aurora40]

Cool, thx. Looks like it's really from LS1 Tech:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspen...ll-w-pics.html

[Aurora40]

Now that I can see all the pictures, that is not a C5, is it?. It's got what looks like a strut suspension.