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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Delanson, NY
Posts: 913
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Folks,
Looks like I need to pull and replace my oil pan gasket. Looks stright forward but??? Any tricks or advice to make this go easier? Also any thoughts on a source for the gasket? Thanks, ![]() |
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#2 |
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 2,713
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I got my gasket from KW, and the oil pan pickup o-ring from WVZR1. I've heard you can reuse the o-ring though if you stick with the same thickness gasket (GM).
It's not hard at all, just time consuming. The hardest part for me was putting the pan back on, it was hard to hold it steady while threading in the first bolt. Clean the bolt holes well to ensure no oil in them. And use some medium loctite.
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Bob Saveland Former owner of #2517 [IMG]http://a.random-image.net/aurora40/vette.jpg[/img] |
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#3 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
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[B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B] |
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#4 | |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 200
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I had a small leak coming from the front of my oil pan. All it took was a very slight tightening of the front bolts (less than 1/8 inch turn) and the leak is gone! I couldn't believe that was all it took.
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[IMG]http://i16.tinypic.com/4ig0b3a.jpg[/IMG] D. Mark Gentleman Farmer, U.S. Army-Retired LS3,LS6,LT1,LT5,L98,L82,L36,L79,L76 |
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#5 |
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Candy Apple...yUmMy
Posts: 1,137
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Remove your map sensor and bracket so it doesn't hit the firewall...remove motor mount bolts and jack that baby up for clearance!
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Delanson, NY
Posts: 913
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Thanks for the advice. I will put it up on the lift in the next few weeks and see if snugging up the bolts helps. ![]() |
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#7 |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA.
Posts: 896
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Hopefully it does, mine dripped a bit whenI bought it...Snugged a few up, not so much as 1 spot in 2 yrs and this one has lots of miles on it.
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1990 ZR1, 142,000 miles-Black on black 4.09's Haibeck chip, 3"exh, K&N, meth inj. |
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#8 | |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 200
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Here is a link where I was helped out..... http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5107
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[IMG]http://i16.tinypic.com/4ig0b3a.jpg[/IMG] D. Mark Gentleman Farmer, U.S. Army-Retired LS3,LS6,LT1,LT5,L98,L82,L36,L79,L76 |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Sunshine State
Posts: 1,071
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Actually....you dont need to pull them. I did it without pulling them. If you have a ratcheting box wrench (10mm) and a regular (8mm) box wrench thats about 4" long, you can fit the tools up in there & use a long stout screwdriver to turn the wrenhces. Using the K brace for a pivot point helps a bunch. Took me about 15-20 minutes to get to all the front-most pan bolts and I was done with them. ![]()
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[B]1990 #2815[/B] [COLOR="Red"][B]Red/Red[/B][/COLOR] Ported Plenum & IH (by Pete) Haibeck Chip Rebuilt FPR (by Phil) FIC Injectors Watson LT Headers 3" Stainless Works exhaust Lingenfelter Open Air Lid Bill B Built Transmission Shifter & C Beam Plates [FONT=Impact][COLOR=red]1992 [COLOR=black]#[/COLOR] 091[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Impact][COLOR=#ff0000]Red/[COLOR=silver]Gray[/COLOR][/COLOR][/FONT] [B]SOLD[/B] |
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