OE Style Oil Cooler Lines?

[Black Red '90]

I purchased oil cooler lines from Jerry's Gaskets shortly after buying my car in March of 2018. The quality is great but they are collecting dust in my garage. The factory AN flare fittings will not budge. I've tried several times and had the car to two dealers without luck. At this point I just want direct fit OE style replacement lines. I'm tired of the headaches and tired of cleaning the leaked oil after every drive. I know there aren't and pre-made lines on the market, so I was thinking maybe a vendor who builds lines to order? I found a company called RB Royal https://www.rbroyal.com/ that looks promising. Has anyone gone this route?

[Black Red '90]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage.

I can't speak for the techs, but that's the method I used on both a cold & hot engine.

[Jagdpanzer]

A few good hammer blows on a box end wrench should bust them loose. Steel fitting threads screwed into aluminum have a tendency to freeze up. Shock of hammer blows will release them.


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[billschroeder5842]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

A few good hammer blows on a box end wrench should bust them loose. Steel fitting threads screwed into aluminum have a tendency to freeze up. Shock of hammer blows will release them.

This is what I did along with the "two box" wrenches. Seemed to work just fine.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I used no hammer as the leverage provided was very sufficient.




If anything I would try a bit of heat on the area around the fitting

(snip)

Ah, yes...when all-else fails, get it hot!

[Jagdpanzer]

Open flame could be risky in that area of the engine. Aluminum sucks up a lot of heat compared to iron or steel. To be safe I would remove the complete oil filter/sending unit, remove the filter, plugs, control valves and thermostat, flush remaining oil out with solvent.
To hold bolt it down to a piece of 2x4 and use a vice. Be careful not to use to much heat with cast aluminum.



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[A26B]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

Open flame could be risky in that area of the engine. Aluminum sucks up a lot of heat compared to iron or steel. To be safe I would remove the complete oil filter/sending unit, remove the filter, plugs, control valves and thermostat, flush remaining oil out with solvent.
To hold bolt it down to a piece of 2x4 and use a vice. Be careful not to use to much heat with cast aluminum.

As for the inverse of this procedure a/k/a installation tightening;
We have had 2 customers break the Oil Cooler Adapter by over-tightening the new fittings during installation. Teflon thread sealants (tape especially)greatly reduce friction on the threads. Add in tapered threads for the wedge effect, and large wrench size and it's a perfect storm for over-tightening especially if you think removal effort has any relativity to proper tightening.

Thread sealant is required and Loctite 565 is a good product for this application.

[Black Red '90]

I appreciate all of the suggestions, but they are not working. The wrench method (looped and hammer blows) is doing nothing more than starting to deform the fitting. I’m afraid that any more force is going to round the edges.

The online retailer never responded so I went to three local hydraulic shops today. None had the equipment available to rebuild the OE lines. I ended up purchasing two 12AN to 10AN adapters so I could install the Jerry’s Gasket kit without having to remove the factory fittings. Unfortunately, that did not work as the lines would need about 1 ½ inches cut from them to fit with the adaptors.

My train thought is to build my own lines: factory 12AN fitting>12AN to 10AN adaptor>45degree 10AN push fitting>generic hose>90 degree 10AN pushfitting>Jerry’s Gasket oil cooler adaptor.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Black Red '90

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]

My train thought is to build my own lines: factory 12AN fitting>12AN to 10AN adaptor>45degree 10AN push fitting>generic hose>90 degree 10AN pushfitting>Jerry’s Gasket oil cooler adaptor.

Post 125 - SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Black Red '90

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I appreciate all of the suggestions, but they are not working. The wrench method (looped and hammer blows) is doing nothing more than starting to deform the fitting. I’m afraid that any more force is going to round the edges.

It's not that big of job to simply remove the Oil Filter Housing completely. Only 3 bolts at bottom & 1 at the top. Then you can vise it & get to the original fittings easily.