Takes a long time to start after sitting in the cold weather ---

[alwayscode390]

Here is a vid of my car in 35 degree weather starting after sitting for a day. Takes about 4 seconds of turning the starter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrulW0XEWGY

I just went and started it after 6 days ... and it took about 6 seconds. I just about let off the starter before it kicked over.

After its been running , it will start in 2 seconds ... what I would consider normal.

The last owner warned me of this, and said its ok.

Im not really worried about anything but the fact that this cant be easy on the starter ... and I have been warned that the starter being under the intake manifold is an expensive / long job.

How strong are the starters? Is this normal behavior for our cars? Any advice you can give me?

---Car has 43k miles, New Injectors/fuel pump/pump regulator, 1990 ZR1 LPE Ported Package---

Thanks ---

[scottfab]

Normal.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

This hasn't been the case with my Z. It's been sitting outside because the shop and house garages are full at the moment.

Mine starts just as normal as when in the cold as it did in the warm months. Six seconds is a pretty long time. Mine fires quickly all the time. Sometimes as instant as the key is turned.

ADDITION
My statment above is AFTER I let the fuel pumps energize the fuel rails.

[Fully Vetted]

When you first turn on your key you will hear the fuel pumps start. Try waiting a few seconds before you engage the starter. I know it made a difference with my car.

I remember seeing your video of you starting your car over on CF and I didn't think it was going to start.

[Paul Workman]

Well, 6 seconds seems a bit on the long side. Mine is about 3-4 seconds AFTER the fuel rail is charged.

Before rolling the ignition switch over to START, turn the switch to the "ON" position and listen to the fuel pumps. When they stop running, the rail is up to pressure, but it takes maybe a couple seconds before the rail (on my 90) is up to pressure. If I roll to the START position before the rail is charged, I can see how that might invite a backfire (NOT GOOD) at the very least. But, also add a second or two to the normal 3-4 second (cold) start time.

Once it has been started and run that day, the start time is much quicker - sometimes under a second!

And, if nobody told you, you want to hold the switch in the START position for almost another second after it fires to let the motor rpm start coming up. This avoids backfires which tend to blow hoses off the MAP and the Fuel Pressure Regulator (for starters) at the very least, or rupture diaphrams in said parts (rare, but happens). This trick might avoid a plenum pull to re-connect a vacuum hose. Just sayin...

P.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Fully Vetted

When you first turn on your key you will hear the fuel pumps start. Try waiting a few seconds before you engage the starter. I know it made a difference with my car.

Ya beat me toit!

P.

[Fully Vetted]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

...And, if nobody told you, you want to hold the switch in the START position for almost another second after it fires to let the motor rpm start coming up. This avoids backfires which tend to blow hoses off the MAP and the Fuel Pressure Regulator (for starters) at the very least, or rupture diaphrams in said parts (rare, but happens). This trick might avoid a plenum pull to re-connect a vacuum hose. Just sayin...

P.

Good info. I had not heard this before. Thanks, Paul.

[alwayscode390]

These are DEFINATELY some quirky cars.

I had no clue about letting the fuel pumps prime the rails ... but it makes total sense.

I will see if that helps out my situation.

Thank you all ---

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by alwayscode390

These are DEFINATELY some quirky cars.

I had no clue about letting the fuel pumps prime the rails ... but it makes total sense.

I will see if that helps out my situation.

Thank you all ---

You're going to have to get to know your car. It isn't always the case
that you want to wait the 2 sec to let the fuel pressure come up.
Here is why.
1. If your fuel pumps hold pressure well after being turned off then you can go straight to starter, no waiting 2sec for pressure.

2. If your fuel pumps do not hold pressure (excessive and quick pressure bleed off) then is does no good to pressurize the rail since the pressure bleeds off too quickly (yes this probably should be addressed/fixed but if you're not up to pulling fuel pumps right away then read on) This was the last failure I had and going straight to the starter position yielded a faster start.

3. If your fuel pumps bleed off pressure slowly then it may make sense to hold for the 2 secs to get a better chance at the highest pressure.

Here's the deal. I've had my car now for 15yrs and several fuel pumps and have seen all three of the above. To find out how yours behaves you need to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and see.

If the goal is to reach the quickest start time know which of the 3 you have and start accordingly.

One other pointer. It's not a good idea to do aggressive lateral driving with < 1/4 tank. If the fuel pumps suck air it stresses/ages them and can lead to premature failure.
It's another quirk.

[alwayscode390]

Thanks Scott ... you seem very knowledgeable , and I have learned a lot from your posts. I appreciate the help.

I would like to attach a permanent fuel pressure gauge to the rail ... is there enough room for a 1 1/2" liquid filled gauge? I have ran some that attach to the Shroeder Valve in other vehicles. Is it a 1/8 NPT female port on the rail?

What is the typical Fuel Pressure I should look for at the rail?

Happy Holidays!!! ---