Door Panel Repair (applies to 1994-1995) - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

QB93Z · 08-22-2010

Many 1994 and 1995 ZR-1's (as well as 1994-1996 Corvettes) have an issue with the interior door panels. The door panel gets loose so that the top edge of the door panel will not stay firmly attached to the top edge of the door, resulting in the door panel showing a large gap at the window.

One of the WAZOO guys, Yun (Second Chance), has come up with an excellent repair procedure to fix this problem.

The problem is that the 1994 and later door panels are relatively light weight and the design is poor. The internal stiffeners on the plastic part of the panel break, allowing the panel to flex at the top.

This picture shows the stiffeners (ribs). The left edge of the panel is the window trim lip that is supposed to stay connected to the door top. There are three breaks visible. The closest rib is broken at the mold seam, and the next two ribs are broken at the apex of the angle.

To fix the flexing problem, it is necessary to flex the panel back to the correct position and then glue the cracked ribs.

Yun's Solution:

Step 1 - Remove the door panel from the car.

Step 2- Cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth to fit over each rib at the cracked area. Piece size will be about 2" by 3". Remember to allow enough width to wrap the cloth on both sides of the rib:

Step 3 - Using a hair dryer or a heat gun on LOW setting heat the panel to make it easier to bend. If you are working alone, stand the panel so that the window molding edge is resting on a firm surface, and push down on the panel to force the cracked ribs into their correct alignment:

Step 4 - Hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs have been repaired. An assistant can help, but it can be done by one person if necessary.

Step 5 - Apply a liberal amount of SuperGlue to one cracked area. While the glue is still liquid, apply a piece of fiberglass cloth to the broken area.

Step 6 - Apply more SuperGlue so that the cloth is saturated. Here Yun is using a screw driver to "spread" the SuperGlue around on the fiberclass cloth piece:

Step 7 - Once the glue is tacky, fold the fiberglass cloth over the rib and apply more SuperGlue to the other side until all of the fiberglass cloth is soaked.

Step 8 - Allow the SuperGlue to "dry". Use of the heat gun on low heat will speed up the cure process:

Step 9 - Repeat for each cracked rib. Note, for best results, hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs are repaired.

The procedure is messy. You will end up with fiberglass glued to your fingers. Be careful to avoid getting the glue on the front side of the door panel.

Thanks to Yun for showing me this repair. We fixed one of the nagging problems with my 1994.

If you have a loose panel, I hope that it helps you also.
Jim

ZZZZZR1 · 08-22-2010

That was a great repair!!!!!!

Fixed my 94 and what a differrence. I have tried to fix it since I bought the car and it took about 1hr.

Thanks Yun!

David

bdw18_123 · 08-22-2010

Just to add another repair method for those door panels, you can also cut out the shape of each broken rib in thin sheet aluminum and rivet that over the broken rib.

secondchance · 08-22-2010

Jim,

I think your write up was more difficult then the fix.
Always happy to contribute.

08-22-2010	#1
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,689	Door Panel Repair (applies to 1994-1995) Many 1994 and 1995 ZR-1's (as well as 1994-1996 Corvettes) have an issue with the interior door panels. The door panel gets loose so that the top edge of the door panel will not stay firmly attached to the top edge of the door, resulting in the door panel showing a large gap at the window. One of the WAZOO guys, Yun (Second Chance), has come up with an excellent repair procedure to fix this problem. The problem is that the 1994 and later door panels are relatively light weight and the design is poor. The internal stiffeners on the plastic part of the panel break, allowing the panel to flex at the top. This picture shows the stiffeners (ribs). The left edge of the panel is the window trim lip that is supposed to stay connected to the door top. There are three breaks visible. The closest rib is broken at the mold seam, and the next two ribs are broken at the apex of the angle. To fix the flexing problem, it is necessary to flex the panel back to the correct position and then glue the cracked ribs. Yun's Solution: Step 1 - Remove the door panel from the car. Step 2- Cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth to fit over each rib at the cracked area. Piece size will be about 2" by 3". Remember to allow enough width to wrap the cloth on both sides of the rib: Step 3 - Using a hair dryer or a heat gun on LOW setting heat the panel to make it easier to bend. If you are working alone, stand the panel so that the window molding edge is resting on a firm surface, and push down on the panel to force the cracked ribs into their correct alignment: Step 4 - Hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs have been repaired. An assistant can help, but it can be done by one person if necessary. Step 5 - Apply a liberal amount of SuperGlue to one cracked area. While the glue is still liquid, apply a piece of fiberglass cloth to the broken area. Step 6 - Apply more SuperGlue so that the cloth is saturated. Here Yun is using a screw driver to "spread" the SuperGlue around on the fiberclass cloth piece: Step 7 - Once the glue is tacky, fold the fiberglass cloth over the rib and apply more SuperGlue to the other side until all of the fiberglass cloth is soaked. Step 8 - Allow the SuperGlue to "dry". Use of the heat gun on low heat will speed up the cure process: Step 9 - Repeat for each cracked rib. Note, for best results, hold the panel in the correct position until all the ribs are repaired. The procedure is messy. You will end up with fiberglass glued to your fingers. Be careful to avoid getting the glue on the front side of the door panel. Thanks to Yun for showing me this repair. We fixed one of the nagging problems with my 1994. If you have a loose panel, I hope that it helps you also. Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member Last edited by QB93Z; 08-22-2010 at 11:20 AM.

08-22-2010	#2
ZZZZZR1 Banned BANNED Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: MD Posts: 3,690	Re: Door Panel Repair (applies to 1994-1995) That was a great repair!!!!!! Fixed my 94 and what a differrence. I have tried to fix it since I bought the car and it took about 1hr. Thanks Yun! David

08-22-2010	#3
bdw18_123 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Prather, CA Posts: 809	Re: Door Panel Repair (applies to 1994-1995) Just to add another repair method for those door panels, you can also cut out the shape of each broken rib in thin sheet aluminum and rivet that over the broken rib. __________________ [IMG]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a292/bdw18_123/_zr1netforumsigphoto.jpg[/IMG][B] 1990 Corvette ZR-1 [/B][I] White/Flame Red, #2299, mostly stock, 144K miles.[/I] -Cams timed to the '93-'95 405HP LT5 stock timing. -IAT sensor relocated to below front bumper. -Haibeck hoops installed in airduct. -OBX cat-back exhaust. [COLOR=DarkRed][B](SOLD - December 2012 [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=DarkRed][B]:hello:)[/B][/COLOR] 1993 Corvette Coupe Black/Black, 6-speed (SOLD - October 2009 :hello:)

08-22-2010	#4
secondchance Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: McLean, VA Posts: 3,721	Re: Door Panel Repair (applies to 1994-1995) Jim, I think your write up was more difficult then the fix. Always happy to contribute.