Need advice.... - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

rush91 · 09-04-2020

So I have been experiencing a flicker in the speedo screen. When out driving and if I come to a light or stop and the fans kick on, the volts shoot way down. Almost to where the car wants to die unless I keep the RPMs up a little....The car doesn't stumble on acceleration or anytime else.

New battery this spring, connections looks good. I have never had one issue with car not starting or stalling.....So I drove the Beast to work today, and leave for lunch and car won't start. I got in, put the key in, turned it but didn't crank it. No warning of low voltage, hear the fuel pump do it's thing, all gauges, dash lights, even the doors locked as usual..... But I go to crank it and nothing. Tried the same process again, all looked as it should, but no crank. Pop the hood, I checked battery cables, seemed ok. Looked at the Alternator, kinda jiggled the red and black wires, went back in and tried again. As I'm hold the key over to crank the car, maybe 6 seconds, BOOM starts smooth as butter.....So in my long winded story, I think I have answered my own question.

Does this sound like the Alternator??? I will try and have my brother test the Alternator this weekend, since he has the tools to do so. Test the battery as well and all connections? As far as I know, I'm sure it's the original alternator, 1991 Z 55,000 miles.

Young1 · 09-04-2020

Most likely your starter solenoid contacts needs resurfaced making sporadic contact. Or your clutch safety switch is making sporadic contact. Or the resistor pill on the ignition key needs cleaning as well as ignition with contact spray. Or all three.

rush91 · 09-04-2020

Quote:

Originally Posted by Young1

Most likely your starter solenoid contacts needs resurfaced making sporadic contact. Or your clutch safety switch is making sporadic contact. Or the resistor pill on the ignition key needs cleaning as well as ignition with contact spray. Or all three.

How does one clean the pellet on the key, rubbing alcohol? Is there a way to test the starter?

Paul Workman · 09-05-2020

Low voltage is likely the basis for all other issues, including apparent starter(ing) issues.

Things to check

voltage (motor not running) of a fully charged battery ~ 12.6. less than 12.2 and the battery is discharged and below ~12 volts one can expect starting issues - intermittent at first, but quickly become "fatal" as the battery is further drained.

Voltage measured directly (with a volt meter probing the battery terminals directly) with motor running and battery fully charged is between 13.8 when hot (after engine is hot and been running long enough to charge the battery after initial starting) and 14.7 when cold.

Low voltage with the alternator running is either due to a severely discharged battery OR the alternator is malfunctioning (i.e., internal component or regulator OR the connections to the alternator come into question.

Failure to start or intermittent starting issues bring the battery, the connections between the battery and the starter solenoid and the starter stator connections and the stator itself. (A GOOD volt meter, e.g., A digital FLUKE meter is worth every penny and should accompany you anytime you go on a trip especially!).

Low voltage can be due to a bad battery, of course. As a matter of fact, each of the 6 cells of an automotive lead acid (including AGM) batteries produce 2.2 volts when charged, or 12.6 total. A key to a bad battery is if the voltage is ~ 10.4 volts, it is indicative of a BAD CELL and may not be recovered regardless of time on a charger. (NOTE: A battery that is discharged to at or near zero volts will likely suffer some permanent damage and may not recover to full capacity, assuming the particular battery charger used will even charge a fully depleted [lead-acid] battery.)

To load test the battery you can have most any of the auto parts stores will LOAD test the battery and the charging system too. (a LOAD TEST requires time to fully charge the battery which may take several minutes to an hour before a load test can be done.

Well...hopefully this info will get you headed in the right direction. Let us know what your testing reveals. Good luck!

rush91 · 09-10-2020

Update.....I had battery tested and it was fine. I then decided to clean the battery cable ends. They didn't look bad at all, but took a wire brush to them anyways. The flicker is now gone and it seems to fire up a little quicker.... Sometimes its the little things.

BigJohn · 09-10-2020

Quote:

Originally Posted by rush91

Update.....I had battery tested and it was fine. I then decided to clean the battery cable ends. They didn't look bad at all, but took a wire brush to them anyways. The flicker is now gone and it seems to fire up a little quicker.... Sometimes its the little things.

Have you ever put some Dielectric grease on your terminals and connectors?

A26B · 09-10-2020

I suggest using dielectric grease on all harness connectors, including on the connector weather seal. Remove the seal & apply to the entire seal. Helps the rubber to stay soft & pliable to seal well.
Also good on all weather stripping apply sparingly & wipe gently with clean cloth to remove excess.

Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

09-04-2020	#1
rush91 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Carterville Illinois Posts: 849	Need advice.... So I have been experiencing a flicker in the speedo screen. When out driving and if I come to a light or stop and the fans kick on, the volts shoot way down. Almost to where the car wants to die unless I keep the RPMs up a little....The car doesn't stumble on acceleration or anytime else. New battery this spring, connections looks good. I have never had one issue with car not starting or stalling.....So I drove the Beast to work today, and leave for lunch and car won't start. I got in, put the key in, turned it but didn't crank it. No warning of low voltage, hear the fuel pump do it's thing, all gauges, dash lights, even the doors locked as usual..... But I go to crank it and nothing. Tried the same process again, all looked as it should, but no crank. Pop the hood, I checked battery cables, seemed ok. Looked at the Alternator, kinda jiggled the red and black wires, went back in and tried again. As I'm hold the key over to crank the car, maybe 6 seconds, BOOM starts smooth as butter.....So in my long winded story, I think I have answered my own question. Does this sound like the Alternator??? I will try and have my brother test the Alternator this weekend, since he has the tools to do so. Test the battery as well and all connections? As far as I know, I'm sure it's the original alternator, 1991 Z 55,000 miles.

09-04-2020	#2
Young1 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 896	Re: Need advice.... Most likely your starter solenoid contacts needs resurfaced making sporadic contact. Or your clutch safety switch is making sporadic contact. Or the resistor pill on the ignition key needs cleaning as well as ignition with contact spray. Or all three. __________________ Steve Young 1991 ZR-1 Quasar Blue Metallic/Black #729 Second Owner 1991 ZR-1 Dark Red Metallic/Black #2040 SOLD 1990 ZR-1 Dark Red Metallic/Saddle #1670 SOLD Double your happiness.....complain half as much.

09-05-2020	#4
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: Need advice.... Low voltage is likely the basis for all other issues, including apparent starter(ing) issues. Things to check voltage (motor not running) of a fully charged battery ~ 12.6. less than 12.2 and the battery is discharged and below ~12 volts one can expect starting issues - intermittent at first, but quickly become "fatal" as the battery is further drained. Voltage measured directly (with a volt meter probing the battery terminals directly) with motor running and battery fully charged is between 13.8 when hot (after engine is hot and been running long enough to charge the battery after initial starting) and 14.7 when cold. Low voltage with the alternator running is either due to a severely discharged battery OR the alternator is malfunctioning (i.e., internal component or regulator OR the connections to the alternator come into question. Failure to start or intermittent starting issues bring the battery, the connections between the battery and the starter solenoid and the starter stator connections and the stator itself. (A GOOD volt meter, e.g., A digital FLUKE meter is worth every penny and should accompany you anytime you go on a trip especially!). Low voltage can be due to a bad battery, of course. As a matter of fact, each of the 6 cells of an automotive lead acid (including AGM) batteries produce 2.2 volts when charged, or 12.6 total. A key to a bad battery is if the voltage is ~ 10.4 volts, it is indicative of a BAD CELL and may not be recovered regardless of time on a charger. (NOTE: A battery that is discharged to at or near zero volts will likely suffer some permanent damage and may not recover to full capacity, assuming the particular battery charger used will even charge a fully depleted [lead-acid] battery.) To load test the battery you can have most any of the auto parts stores will LOAD test the battery and the charging system too. (a LOAD TEST requires time to fully charge the battery which may take several minutes to an hour before a load test can be done. Well...hopefully this info will get you headed in the right direction. Let us know what your testing reveals. Good luck! __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 09-05-2020 at 11:11 AM.

09-10-2020	#5
rush91 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Carterville Illinois Posts: 849	Re: Need advice.... Update.....I had battery tested and it was fine. I then decided to clean the battery cable ends. They didn't look bad at all, but took a wire brush to them anyways. The flicker is now gone and it seems to fire up a little quicker.... Sometimes its the little things.

09-10-2020	#7
A26B Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arcadia,OK Posts: 3,393	Re: Need advice.... I suggest using dielectric grease on all harness connectors, including on the connector weather seal. Remove the seal & apply to the entire seal. Helps the rubber to stay soft & pliable to seal well. Also good on all weather stripping apply sparingly & wipe gently with clean cloth to remove excess. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry __________________ Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 *ZR-1*, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed.