oil filter housing

[todesengel]

I would like to remove this big bulky tumor that sits on the front of the motor, and replace it with simple lines running through a double relocated filter. I have read some about chain rattle, and check valve integrity, etc. So I pose the question to the lt5 experts, pro's, con's?

[todesengel]

Why not just make an adapter plate to replace the housing, mount the filters upside down, thereby always ensuring the filters are full? Volume is more important than pressure, at least imho when it comes to lubrication, as long as your coolers are up to the task, which can be accomplished many ways. Not saying what you have planned is not going to be of benefit, but it doesn't accomplish my goal of removing the tumor.
I will stay tuned to see what you think the benefits of doing it in the manner of keeping the tumor will yield for you.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

You are reading my mind......I am designing a dual filter system that will replace the coolant overflow plastic container under the passenger headlight. That coolant overflow plastic container will be repositioned on the drivers side since I eliminated my air pump. Hang on for some more detail

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....5411&post95411
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...0&postcount=17

In the oil filter housing you have three valves:

The Oil Cooler Bypass Valve on oil filter housing allows oil to bypass the open oil cooler at hot temperatures since oil cooler is a bit restrictive. This valve raises the pressure a bit on the flow trying to bypass the oil cooler making sure some oil does go through the oil cooler.

The Oil Temperature Control Valve on oil filter housing opens oil flow from the oil cooler. The tremperature opening characteristics of this valve are Thermostat-Open-203 degree F, Fully open-266 degree F.

The Oil Filter Bypass Valve on oil filter housing allows oil to bypass oil filter if the oil filter becomes to restrictive.

So....I am going to leave the oil filter housing with those three valves and install an aluminum adapter where the oil filter is. Using 12AN SS braided lines and 10AN O Ring straight fittings run two lines down to the dual filter Receiver would be tip the dual oil filters (identical to stock filters) right side up. Those filters will always run full as well as the SS 12AN braided hose eliminating the lag time for oil pressure to reach the chain tensioners. The relocation of the filters will allow oil filter changing in an area where oil will not mess up the engine. About a pint of oil might drain from the two SS braided 12AN lines during filter change out that being caught completely by a small plastic container sitting in the lower part of that area were the overflow container was.

[todesengel]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....5411&post95411
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...0&postcount=17

.

Those posts have a lot of good information in them.

With the baffle system, and reduction in aeration, what do you really think the pressure needs to be to maintain required need? If a restriction is really needed a filter could be put in place in the oil supply line, with a check valve and bypass in place. I see little need for this however.

I prefer the straight through filter application. I really do not think there would be a diminished supply here, but am still open to further explanation if i am missing something

[todesengel]

I will maintain a cooler, just not the stock cooler. I run my filters inline. Hot oil to the filters, then through the cooler. All oil will be filtered. Your line dimension is spot on, and one of the first things I looked at. I think you may see a slight drop in pressure with the larger lines, but a increase in volume, obviously. Much like a good top end port job lol.
Thanks again for some very good information.

Definately keep me informed through the process of your endeavor, it will be interesting to watch. I will definately have hard numbers on my own setup, and it should be interesting to compare.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Good point but I am maintaining the oil cooler which you may not be doing. So......I need the three valves that control oil to the cooler and through the filter. But I shall stay tuned as I am just doing some initial fitting of parts. The three valves could be set up in any kind of Billet Aluminum manifold relocated. I calculated very little oil pressure loss and maybe even a gain with dual filters

[todesengel]

in your post you mentioned the oil filter becoming a restriction, and the bypass opening. That, and the smaller id of the fittings. I think I misunderstood what you were implying. I have relocation kit, and coolers on everyone of my fi cars. I also run twin external transmission filters on my wifes th400 supra. There are people who also intentionally run hvlp systems on their cars, there are many different theories on lubrication.

I'll catch up on this tomorrow night. I have to go to be so I can get up in 4 hours to head towards KC. Goodnight, and thanks again.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I am not sure of what restriction you are describing.....the restriction in oil flow is the head loss once the oil reaches the main bearings and camshaft. That is the restriction that maintains oil pressure at the gauge. If the oil filter becomes clogged, the oil bypass valve will open reducing that restriction.

You start out with about 50-60 psi just after the pump. So......I wanted to maintain that with minimal reduction due to additional head loss in hoses between the oil filter adapter and relocated dual oil filters. I run oil filter relocation on a Tacoma which I had to do because of the near impossibility of removing that oil filter without removing the engine pan beneath it. That works great and I did some calculations on that system also determining the oil flow was nearly unaltered as the head loss in the lines I used was minimal. The key is to use larger SS braided hose (most use 8AN and better relocation systems use 10AN...I am using 12AN).