Track Day Modifications?

[RussMcB]

Forgive me if this is a newbie question, or a topic already discussed (I searched briefly).

There's a good chance I will take my (new to me) ZR-1 to occasional track days. I live near Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park, and not too far from some other great tracks. Also, there are hill climbs and "track trials" (which would require minimal safety equipment). I'm wondering if there are other folks here who have done mods towards that goal.

For instance, has anyone installed a 4-point roll bar (such as the common AutoPower brand)? I'd like to hear details about the installation, as well as what it's like daily driving with one. Is there a way to install a roll bar (that meets most rules) that still allows roof storage?

I plan to purchase a set of track-only wheels and tires. Can (Should) I get something other than ZR-1 size wheels and tires? Perhaps 18" or 19" for/from newer Corvettes? I'm okay with wheel spacers. I'll probably install longer studs. Price is a consideration. I'd like to spend as little as possible for the wheels. I'll probably get the tires from a place like John Berget's (who replied recently that he doesn't get a lot of 17" take-offs in ZR-1 sizes - hence the thoughts about 18-19" wheels).

When I go to the track it will not be for ultimate lap times, but rather for fun, driving the car at perhaps 80-90% of its capabilities. For that reason, I'm guessing the stock brakes (with appropriate brake pads), cooling system, suspension, etc. are up to the task (if well maintained).

How well does the stock driver's seat work on a road or autocross course?

Thanks in advance.

[8cam]

Hi Russ. I haven't had mine on the track, but I have autocrossed it hard and I can tell you the stock seats are pretty good at the autocross. The issue is the stock seat belt, because it doesn't keep you strapped in very tightly. I think with a harness it would be just fine.

[RussMcB]

Originally Posted by 8cam

Hi Russ. I haven't had mine on the track, but I have autocrossed it hard and I can tell you the stock seats are pretty good at the autocross. The issue is the stock seat belt, because it doesn't keep you strapped in very tightly. I think with a harness it would be just fine.

Thanks. Good to know.

[mbabbitt]

Originally Posted by RussMcB

Forgive me if this is a newbie question, or a topic already discussed (I searched briefly).

There's a good chance I will take my (new to me) ZR-1 to occasional track days. I live near Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park, and not too far from some other great tracks. Also, there are hill climbs and "track trials" (which would require minimal safety equipment). I'm wondering if there are other folks here who have done mods towards that goal.

For instance, has anyone installed a 4-point roll bar (such as the common AutoPower brand)? I'd like to hear details about the installation, as well as what it's like daily driving with one. Is there a way to install a roll bar (that meets most rules) that still allows roof storage?

I plan to purchase a set of track-only wheels and tires. Can (Should) I get something other than ZR-1 size wheels and tires? Perhaps 18" or 19" for/from newer Corvettes? I'm okay with wheel spacers. I'll probably install longer studs. Price is a consideration. I'd like to spend as little as possible for the wheels. I'll probably get the tires from a place like John Berget's (who replied recently that he doesn't get a lot of 17" take-offs in ZR-1 sizes - hence the thoughts about 18-19" wheels).

When I go to the track it will not be for ultimate lap times, but rather for fun, driving the car at perhaps 80-90% of its capabilities. For that reason, I'm guessing the stock brakes (with appropriate brake pads), cooling system, suspension, etc. are up to the task (if well maintained).

How well does the stock driver's seat work on a road or autocross course?

Thanks in advance.

Russ,

I tracked my '94 for 6 years and have a lot of track miles on it. I instructed HPDE's for around 10 car clubs so I'm not a newb. I did 75 events in 6 years, 50 at VIR, the BEST Road Track in the US they say.

Rollbar: I installed the AutoPoint Rollbar. Kiss the roof storage good-bye. I essentially cannot see out the back window. You could probably get around this if you could lower the rear view mirror somehow.

Tires: I could buy a set of 17" scrubs all day with one heat cycle for $75 each. These would be $400-$500 new. I doubt if you could do that with 18 or 19" wheels. Maybe times have changed but 17" is a fairly common size for scrubs.
There is no way I would use spacers on the track. That is just stupid.

Brakes: The stock brakes are absolutely crap. Repeat 3 times. They go soft in the middle of a run if you brake hard. If you run in the Green group they should be OK. If you like replacing brake pads every other weekend and can live with a soft pedal, keep the stock brakes, if not, keep reading. I installed a Master cylinder from a Dodge 3/4 ton truck that has a 1 1/8" bore. I should have done this from day one (Repeat 5 times) as it was the best bang for the buck: Wilwood GNIII calipers on Coleman 2 piece rotors and moved the front calipers to the rears. There is some down side to doing that but I could stop on half a dime lets say.

Seat: Get a good Kirkey Road Race seat. Spend the money. You don't want your left knew pressing up against the door trying to keep you in your seat. It gets bruised fast on a road track. I just sold my Brey-Krause Safety Belt anchors last week unfortunately.

Cooling: The cooling is also crap. I've had my water temp up to 263 on a hot day. That is not a mis-print. I ended up installing having Marc Haibeck install a Ron Davis radiator and a Fluidyne 4 quart Oil Cooler after doing his 500HP upgrade package. It made all the difference in the world. It was night and day.

Don't expect to keep up with C5 Z06's with a stock ZR-1. You will be severely dis-appointed. Most Porsches will be riding on your tail also waiting to pass you. They will walk you on a straight like nothing. Once you get tired of that, get the 500HP upgrade from Marc. He is the BEST.

I'd also add the Coil-Overs.

Update: The MC was actually off of a '94 K2500 Pickup and not a Dodge. It was a Napa TruStop, P/N 10-2684.

Good luck.

Mark

[RussMcB]

Mark, that is a lot of really great information. Thanks for sharing.

I doubt I'll do all of those mods, but knowing about them will certainly help me be aware of the car's weaknesses. I don't think I could live with a purpose-built race seat in every day driving.

[PhillipsLT5]

Watch RPM's do not keep it @ aprox. 5K or more due to water pump cavitation, head gasket will blow,

http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/c...c.html?start=5

[mike100]

Originally Posted by mbabbitt

...
Brakes: The stock brakes are absolutely crap. Repeat 3 times. ...

Update: The MC was actually off of a '94 K2500 Pickup and not a Dodge. It was a Napa TruStop, P/N 10-2684.

Mark

Does this bolt on and can it be used with J55 hydraulics or say the C5 front calipers or some common C4 brake combo?

That m/c is like $30 and although the ZR-1 has a dual diaphragm brake booster for more gain, the regular coupes are hurtin' for certain' on brake pedal oomph.

[mbabbitt]

Originally Posted by mike100

Does this bolt on and can it be used with J55 hydraulics or say the C5 front calipers or some common C4 brake combo?

That m/c is like $30 and although the ZR-1 has a dual diaphragm brake booster for more gain, the regular coupes are hurtin' for certain' on brake pedal oomph.

The only reason I went with a '94 K2500 truck MC was because of the Wilwood GNIII's. They work very well with the ZR-1 and finally give it a chance against other high braking cars. And you won't be changing rotors all the time and spending a TON of money on pads/rotors/calipers that widen the more you use them which tapers your pads rendering pre-mature wear.

That MC will probably work with any other caliper than the J55.

[mike100]

Originally Posted by mbabbitt

The only reason I went with a '94 K2500 truck MC was because of the Wilwood GNIII's. They work very well with the ZR-1 and finally give it a chance against other high braking cars. And you won't be changing rotors all the time and spending a TON of money on pads/rotors/calipers that widen the more you use them which tapers your pads rendering pre-mature wear.

That MC will probably work with any other caliper than the J55.

So it bolts up to the factory booster and fits under the hood then?

The outlets/ports are on the other side, but the feed lines are braided and will reach over there I figure. I like the idea of the large diameter m/c but not sure how it would be on the rear brake sensitivity. I have C5 fronts. If you get a chance to post a pic that would be great. Would be a cool project on any C4 if depending on the particulars.

[mike100]

ok further study reminded me on the hydraulic gain principles...a larger diameter m/c bore with the same stroke would actually decrease the pressure at the caliper.

hmmm how does this help? must be the increased volume in the much larger calipers.