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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 838
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Would it be a bad idea to clean the engine bay? I would like to power wash it to get all the gunk off.
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Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 860
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Yeah, you're going to want to be VERY careful doing that. A couple months ago, I covered my engine and intake with towels and plastic and just went to town. Something got wet and my #1 circuit (courtesy lights, a/c control, radio antenna, etc.) was shot. I chased it for over 2 weeks and finally had to take it to an electrician.
I always thought that the engine was the only part that was sensitive to water but I learned otherwise. I'll never go under the hood with a hose again. Be careful!! |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 838
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I see guys who pull their plenum then cover up the ports to power wash the engine themselves.
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Looking for a ZR-1 1985 Yamaha RZ350-NOT STOCK 1971 Yamaha AT1-Middle of a restoration |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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I do the engine by hand, to do the bay itself I cover the engine with a canvas tarp remove everything I can and wash away.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold Last edited by We Gone; 09-26-2014 at 12:52 PM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Vicksburg, MS
Posts: 135
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Any recommendation on what cleaners/degreasers to use?
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[B][U]1991 No. 519[/U][/B] |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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I used 50% diluted greased-lightning and my pressure washer with a low pressure wide tip. Than rinsed very well many times with water to be sure no residue was left on or under the suspension or spring .
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 860
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Go ahead, spray it down. I hope you're an electrician.
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,154
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I would only introduce water to the engine bay if it was on a moist rag. One of the major reasons most of us have went to powder coating which is more durable than the original silver and black BBQ paint as it fades and stains over time. The only way to truly clean the engine is to pull it apart, rattle can it or spray it and clean as you go. Otherwise the results are not that great. Keep in mind our cars are getting longer in the tooth introducing water into the 25 year old wiring and into the underside of the galley if its plugged may cause all types of problems as Chris points out above
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 10-02-2014 at 09:09 AM. |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: San Marcos CA
Posts: 1,802
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I'm very careful not to introduce water under the plenum and of course the alternator. I cover those and avoid direct spray there. Once cleaned the first time, you won't need to wash the engine top again except by clean, damp rags etc.
1)always wash a cool engine- never after a long drive- you might crack the TPS sensor potentiometer. 2) on the black engine bay parts use diluted simple green if very greasy, but mainly I prefer car wash soap and an old sponge I use for engine bay cleaning. old towels also work for the rubdown too. that's it. |
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#10 |
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 783
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I haven't done it to either of my c4s I don't feel there is a need. All the components can be wiped individually or reached etc with spray bottle and rags but I have done several cars in the recent years.
I use diluted simple green and water. Dishwashing brushes (various ones). On a cool/cold motor I just spray the stuff on and let it sit. Then I brush gently to loosen dirst. After that with a hose turned on for little flow and NO nozzle on it.. just let it spill over the motor taking the grime away. No pressure at all. This was my old 01 z28 I picked up. It looked worse but it was raining and it got the front wet but it was all white with dirt/grime buildup too. ![]() SImple green.. brushes.. Just start brushing away ![]() ![]() |
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