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#1 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shalimar, FL
Posts: 192
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Anyone have a list of grounds? Good description
of location would be very helpful. The only one I know about is behind the battery. Looking particularly for anything that might affect driveability under 3000 RPM. Thanks PS. I did a search. Now looking for ECM grounds (behind the battery?), alternator ground and anything else you got Thanks again Last edited by Funracer; 06-13-2012 at 04:40 AM. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-16-2012 at 05:36 AM. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 147
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My terrible grounding experience was the bolt Paul (above) talked about. My loose bolt was on the back of the engine, passenger's side, just above and very close to the bellhousing bolts. Mine was loose (not missing; accidentally loosened when pulling trans and not noticed) and made my car run terrible under 3K. Over 3 K it ran, but not nearly as good. Jim Voter (WAZOO) was able to tighten that bolt with the car on a lift and using a bunch of extensions and inginuity (Thanks Jim!). Once tightened, everything went back to running perfect, just like a switch was thrown. Good Luck!
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Thanks ... Paul (Paul in VA) WAZOO Member |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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Ah yes the much feared intermittent lose of ground at the bell housing.
This is not just a loose bolt phenomenon. It's most insidious form of failure is corrosion. The ground develops a low resistance value which then develops a variable voltage drop which is a function of current draw by other accessories sharing that ground. This is a well visited issue over the years. The cure is light sanding of all the lug surfaces (front and back) as well as the area around the bolt hole. Then a coat of dielectric grease to prevent oxidation in the future. This preventative measure is well worth doing to both bolts at the top of the bell housing if your not sure it's been done on your car.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#5 | |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shalimar, FL
Posts: 192
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at these grounds and report back. I do have an FSM. Used it so many times over the years it is falling apart. I know it points out grounds throughout the manual but I thought someone might have made a list since it seems to be an ongoing issue as these cars age. Regards |
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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Else from under using various "wabblies" and extensions.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#7 | |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Shalimar, FL
Posts: 192
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back on last weekend and pretty much swore I would never pull it off again unless I dropped the wifes diamond ring down there. I guess its the "from underneath..." option then. |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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R&R'ing those connections - would make sense to add that item to the "while I'm in there" list whenever changing the clutch. With the trans and bell housing off, the bolts and lugs are totally exposed to a simple socket and ratchet combo.
Often when working on stuff, one of those flexible "universal joint" links come in handy. But, in instances like this one, where you have to poke a socket waaaay in where you can't reach, those flexible links are too floppy and the socket on the end flops down and getting/keeping the socket on the bolt is frustrating, especially if you have multiple extensions involved! ![]() Well, I may be the last one on this site to discover this, but wrapping those "U-joint" links with a couple wraps of masking tape - allows the joint to flex, but it is now stiff enough that the socket hanging on the end stays in position to engage the bolt head. If you have to go "down under" to get to those ground lug bolts, the masking tape on the U-joint might help you keep your sanity! ![]() P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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Works great because they don't flop over at 90deg. The most they move is about 10deg.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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