Starter relay install

[Mr Cool]

Been wanting to do this since I had a failure to crank in August, went to get my tow vehcle and trailer and when I came back the car started right up.
I could not find any pictures of what this job would look like on this site so here are the ones i took of the process.
This shows the purple wire that needs to be cut and spliced onto. It is in the bundle of wires crossing over the top of the brake booster.



The next picture shows the two yellow wires that I spliced into the purple wire that I cut and the 12 v and ground wires that is needed for the relay. I had some weather pak connectors laying around so I decided to make use of them but they are really not needed.




This picture shows where the 12v and ground are connected behind the battery tray. I installed an inline fuse holder to protect the circuit.



This picture shows it all hooked and tested, the relay just needs to be mounted to the fender well.



The purple wire from the firewall and the ground are wired to the coil in the relay. The purple going toward the intake and the 12v are wired to the contacts.

I just need to find a suitable momentary switch that I can mount in another weather pak so if i have another episode I can plug it in and hit the button with the key on and in neutral and see if it fires up.

[Mr Cool]

The relay I bought was rated at 40 amps the fuse I installed was 30 amps anybody know what the actual current draw on the solenoid is?

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Mr Cool

The relay I bought was rated at 40 amps the fuse I installed was 30 amps anybody know what the actual current draw on the solenoid is?

Thanks to an article by Marc Haibeck for the upcoming HOTB Letter, I think I can divulge a sneak peek snippet of teaser information from it on exactly this "NO START" situation: Initially the draw is 28 to 30 Amperes, to answer your question.

Usually fuses are selected at a rating factor a little over the expected circuit demand; approx 1.5 x expected load, or 45A (call it 50). Another option would be a fusible link instead of a fuse, especially since your right there at the distribution terminal (behind the battery).

If you're a member of the ZR-1 NetRegistry, you can "read all about it" later this week in the Letter~!