Advices for new ZR1 buyer

[juni78]

Hi guys,

I guess it is most common question here, but I didnt find any relevant thread about it.

I would like to buy a ZR-1. I think of year 1990 (good current prices and I like the older front bumpers). My favorite colours are arctic white or black. I would like to get a stock car without mods (If possible).

I have in my collection C4 1995 LT1 (I solved couple of issues with that car), so I am not a newbie with the c4 vettes. However the ZR 1 is something different.

I alawys check the carfax. I guess that mileage under 50k is excellent and under 90k is fair. I dont want to spend more then 18.000 bucks.

What should I check when I will go to see one? I have read about checking oil leaks around cooler and the LT5 engine performance.

Do you think that common chevrolet dealers are able to do relevant pre purchase inspection?

What was the original accesories? Pizza box - with instructions, VHS tape, jack with lever, the wrench for targa and something else?

Thanks for any tips

J.

[QB93Z]

There have been a lot of discussions on these questions. If you search the Forum you will find a wealth of information.

Shopping for a ZR-1 is pretty much like shopping for any performance sports car. All of the same cautions and tips apply. You need to decide if you want an "all stock" car or if you are interested in more performance, with a modded ZR-1. There are a lot of modified ZR-1's available that can save you money on mods after purchase.

For a ZR-1, the "things to look for" are fairly specific. The secondary throttle system is unique to the ZR-1 and one of the things that makes the ZR-1 so special to me. Understanding how the secondaries work will help you to determine the condition of a ZR-1 you are inspecting.

I doubt that you will find a Chevy dealer with any knowledge of the ZR-1, but they should be able to assist you in determining the general condition of a C4 Corvette. My advice is to locate a ZR-1 owner near you and have him explain the LT5 (the engine of the ZR-1) to you. Visit local car shows and Cars and Coffee events and you will eventually find a ZR-1. Or post here on the Forum for some who is willing to meet with you and do a ZR-1 Walk Around.

For a seller that is not near you, post here on the Forum and the ZR-1 community can probably find a volunteer to do an initial inspection for you. The Mission of the ZR-1 Net Registry is: Keeping the Legend Alive, so we want to help people purchase and enjoy a ZR-1.

Here are some things I would ask the seller of a ZR-1 I was interested in. His answers would help me understand the seller's knowledge level and the condition that he maintained the car:

Ask for more pictures:

Vacuum Pump, center of the dash (power key), gas filler neck with the filler cap off, front of the radiator, front spoiler, more engine pictures that show the vacuum, coolant and PCV lines around the plenum.

Ask how much the car was driven in the past year. (The 4,000-mile Purple Z that I bought had all the miles put on in 1995-1996, then no miles. Problems resulted from this.)

Ask if the fuel injectors have been replaced. This not a requirement for a '94 or '95, but is an indicator that the owner has been keeping the car up to date.)

Ask if the secondary pump runs when the Ignition Key is ON with engine not started. (there should be an intermittent sound of a small motor/pump noise from the right front corner of the engine bay.)

Ask if they have the leather slip-on cover for the spare top if the car has that option.

Good luck. If you haven't made a purchase decision by May 2020, be sure to attend the ZR-1 Gathering at the National Corvette Museum and you will get to see a lot of ZR-1's and a lot of enthusiastic ZR-1 owners.

Jim

[juni78]

Thank you Jim,

it is really nice, that here is such community. I think the car is the legend and deserves it.

I am now in contact with one dealer and one private seller (both from other states) and I will focus on things you wrote. If I choose one, I'll better try to find here someone competent for the inspection.

I would like to buy the car and take home (to Europe) before xmas, so I dont wanna make mistake.

Thanks again

Jakub

[Ccmano]

Here’s a list Dynomite (Cliff) and I put together some time back.

Injectors, Have they been replaced
Vacuum leaks, indicated by high idle. There will be minor vacuum leaks which do not effect performance unless you replace the vacuum lines and connectors.
Secondaries operable, can you feel full power mode. Can be viewed by grounding Hot wire (pin C17) on ECM
Ingnition coils and wires replaced, A Note of reference if the engine stumbles
Timing chain noise on cold start (normal to a some degree on 90's) Only before full oil pressure within 10 seconds
Starter, is there history of starting issues. Most often the Starter Solenoid Points need reconditioning
Oil leaks especially the pan and oil cooler lines, Check the Oil Pressure Regulating Valve Cover Plate
Fuel pumps, have they been replaced.
Is it throwing any engine, abs or body codes, SES light on (multiple possibilities here)
Are any other DIC lights on. (Multiple possibilities here as well)
Is the adjustable shocks system working Replaced shocks on two Zs
Windshield delamination, foggy around outside of windshield. I had Safelite replace a 1990 windshield which I furnished with new gaskets
A/C functionality (compressor is unique to the Z, cooling capacity lower) Replaced Dryer, Fittings and added R12 on one ZR-1, R134 on 95'
Power switch functionality and keys (are there 2) Power switch fix (disassemble and bend points into position)
Transmission syncro's, (first gear is always noisy) shifter alignment can mimick synco problems. Had one Trans Rebuilt by ZFdoc
Clutch functionality (they all let in high, was it ever changed) Have replaced clutch plates and use Needle Pilot Bushings, leaking Master or slave.
EGR system on later models, rough idle, hesitation.
Engine mounts, hard to diagnose without visual inspection.

C4 Issues
Head lights operable Simple fix changing tip up Gears
Radiator blocked or simply clogged, runs hot, electric fans operable. Usually leaves and sometimes oil contamination from Oil Cooler Leaks but that is rare (install debris screen)
Wheel bearings, Replaced Rear Wheel Bearings (good at 90K miles) and drive shaft/half shaft U-Joints on high mileage 95'
Suspension bushings,
Condition of all door, top and hatch seals Window frame seals sometimes ragged
Glass roof cracking or crazing.
Instrument cluster functionality especially the tach (tends to read high with age) also note the lighting of the cluster.
DIC button functionality.
Steering wheel excessive movement (tilting) when entering car.
Radio functionality (especially speaker amps) and antenna Usually CD may not function send to Doc Dons (Amps inexpensive Nissan Max 975s or 075s)
Sport seat functionality (transmission, switches, pumps and bladders)
Door window switches
Door window lifter and internal rattles
Fuel tank bladder collapse (results in smaller capacity)
Differential noise.

[EvanZR1]

If you're going to take the car to Europe, my advise would be find a good car and then send it to a good shop like Haibeck or Crossed Flags and have them thoroughly go through the car before taking it out of the country. A C4 ZR-1 is a very reliable car once it's in good running order, but as has been stated, a car that has sat for a while may have some issues.

Good luck in your search.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

All of the above posts have correctly described what you should look for.

One point I want to touch on would be the thought of having a Chevrolet Dealer do an inspection of a ZR-1.
There are many high quality Chevrolet Dealerships out there, and some MAY have experience with the LT-5 engine, however, most have little to no experience with one.
The techs that were trained at the dealership to work on them were, for the most part, the more senior technicians at the dealership. That means they were
"senior" THIRTY YEARS AGO!
Most of them by now have certainly retired.
While you can find experts out there, you are going to need to get the car to them or them to the car. Not always an easy task.

A better course to pursue would be to look at cars owned by Registry Members. Most have long history with us, and the cars are usually known to many, as is their condition and repair history.
Members know what is important, and likely have documentation to support any preventative or corrective measures taken.

$18,000.00 is enough to get you a well-sorted, documented, good running car with 50-75k miles or less.

Follow the advice given by all the earlier posters, and pay specific attention to what Evan suggested, that is have the car gone over while it is here, as it will cost far more later, and it may prove difficult to find the advanced LT-5 skillset that are readily available here.

Best of luck in your search!
Marty

[EvanZR1]

I knew I forgot something, I'd echo and emphasize Marty's point on Chevy dealerships. I wouldn't even take a regular C4 to a Chevy dealership, much less a ZR-1. Dealerships don't keep up training for anything beyond maybe 1 previous generation of a car. My bet is a Chevy dealership would screw up more than they'd fix on a C4 ZR-1.

[juni78]

Thanks guys for all valuable advices. I'll forget common Chevy dealerships and try to find good car, check all possible issues mentioned above and if it is necessary (long time stored car), I'll send it to some workshop focused on the LT5. It should save me money and sleepless nights. Thanks again, Jakub

[We Gone]

If you find a car here in the Atlanta area drop me a line, be happy to help you look one over.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by We Gone

If you find a car here in the Atlanta area drop me a line, be happy to help you look one over.

Good point! There are Registry members all over the US that might be able to evaluate and report on a car wherever you find one. And, it might even be one owned by a Registry member - so there'd be some history on it as well.