The end part 2. - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

rhipsher · 08-07-2010

You have to gind down one of the ears of one bushing to about a 30 degree X 1/4 long chamfer. On the other about a 30 degree X 1/8 long chamfer so you can actually get them started. They will both have to be pressed in from the lipped side.

As you can see the bushing with the big chamfer is also chamfered smaller on the other side. Thats no necessary to do. I only did it because in the beginning I thought I was gonna be able to press them in from the front and back side. But this was a learning expieriance for me also.

While I was at it I also put new poly on the adjustable rear camber rods. Heres a little vid on that.http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...urrent=yyy.mp4

HAWAIIZR-1 · 08-08-2010

What brand are yours? The instructions that came with mine said the sleeve had to pressed out of the batwing.

I do not have a press so I had drill out enough rubber so I could push out the center sleeve and then the rubber was able to come out.

Since I did not have a press like the instructions said and even the Auto Crafts Shop on the military base did not have the right size to press out, I took off the hacksaw blade and reassembled it around the sleeve and cut very gently until I saw I was through the sleeve. I was then able to crush the sleeve and pull it out.

I then greased them and just slip them in. There was no cutting and trimming the poly bushing at all.

I just thought I would share a different method.

HAWAIIZR-1 · 08-08-2010

rhipsher,

I'm a little concerned after thinking about it and remembering how it mounts up in the body. Do you think you will need the poly trimmed off to hold the batwing in there properly? If you already buttoned up and drove it with no issues that I am wrong. It just seems it needs to have that portion flush with the batwing to remain stable in the mount to the body?

Just thought I would mention it.

Craig

rhipsher · 08-08-2010

It drives great. And iif you look at the original rubber one it had no ears at all. Your not supposed to grease any of the bushings to help press them in. The grease is only for the I.D for the sleeve. And the ones that needed to be greased on the I.D were fluted. It is the prothane kit. And the kit didn't say anything about removing the bat wing sleeves. All that came with the kit was an inventory list. No how to instructions.

Ccmano · 08-08-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

What brand are yours? The instructions that came with mine said the sleeve had to pressed out of the batwing.

I do not have a press so I had drill out enough rubber so I could push out the center sleeve and then the rubber was able to come out.

Since I did not have a press like the instructions said and even the Auto Crafts Shop on the military base did not have the right size to press out, I took off the hacksaw blade and reassembled it around the sleeve and cut very gently until I saw I was through the sleeve. I was then able to crush the sleeve and pull it out.

I then greased them and just slip them in. There was no cutting and trimming the poly bushing at all.

I just thought I would share a different method.

This is exactly how I did mine, took me while to figure out that the metal sleeve needed to come out. Used the same hacksaw cut and it came out like a charm.
H

HAWAIIZR-1 · 08-08-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhipsher

It drives great. And iif you look at the original rubber one it had no ears at all. Your not supposed to grease any of the bushings to help press them in. The grease is only for the I.D for the sleeve. And the ones that needed to be greased on the I.D were fluted. It is the prothane kit. And the kit didn't say anything about removing the bat wing sleeves. All that came with the kit was an inventory list. No how to instructions.

Good news and glad it worked out. You're correct about the grease and based on all the other instructions for the entire kit. Mine were Energy Suspension and came with these instructions:

Here is more info and might have to replace the ***** with corvette forum

http://forums.*************.com/c4-t...-bushings.html

Thanks for posting all your info as it encouraged me to do the entire front end too and assemblying everything back today. I think I had the kit sitting in my cabinet for about 5 years or so.

carter200 · 08-08-2010

Craig,
Very shiney looking parts

HAWAIIZR-1 · 08-08-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by carter200

Craig,
Very shiney looking parts

Thanks Carter. I have this illness that I have to clean everything before putting it back in.......the while I'm in there syndrome.

08-07-2010	#1
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	The end part 2. You have to gind down one of the ears of one bushing to about a 30 degree X 1/4 long chamfer. On the other about a 30 degree X 1/8 long chamfer so you can actually get them started. They will both have to be pressed in from the lipped side. As you can see the bushing with the big chamfer is also chamfered smaller on the other side. Thats no necessary to do. I only did it because in the beginning I thought I was gonna be able to press them in from the front and back side. But this was a learning expieriance for me also. While I was at it I also put new poly on the adjustable rear camber rods. Heres a little vid on that.http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/n...urrent=yyy.mp4

08-08-2010	#2
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,564	Re: The end part 2. What brand are yours? The instructions that came with mine said the sleeve had to pressed out of the batwing. I do not have a press so I had drill out enough rubber so I could push out the center sleeve and then the rubber was able to come out. Since I did not have a press like the instructions said and even the Auto Crafts Shop on the military base did not have the right size to press out, I took off the hacksaw blade and reassembled it around the sleeve and cut very gently until I saw I was through the sleeve. I was then able to crush the sleeve and pull it out. I then greased them and just slip them in. There was no cutting and trimming the poly bushing at all. I just thought I would share a different method. __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

08-08-2010	#3
HAWAIIZR-1 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Japan Posts: 3,564	Re: The end part 2. rhipsher, I'm a little concerned after thinking about it and remembering how it mounts up in the body. Do you think you will need the poly trimmed off to hold the batwing in there properly? If you already buttoned up and drove it with no issues that I am wrong. It just seems it needs to have that portion flush with the batwing to remain stable in the mount to the body? Just thought I would mention it. Craig __________________ Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048

08-08-2010	#4
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	Re: The end part 2. It drives great. And iif you look at the original rubber one it had no ears at all. Your not supposed to grease any of the bushings to help press them in. The grease is only for the I.D for the sleeve. And the ones that needed to be greased on the I.D were fluted. It is the prothane kit. And the kit didn't say anything about removing the bat wing sleeves. All that came with the kit was an inventory list. No how to instructions. Last edited by rhipsher; 08-08-2010 at 11:08 AM.

08-08-2010	#7
carter200 Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Texas Posts: 2,431	Re: The end part 2. Craig, Very shiney looking parts __________________ 95 ZR-1 BLK/Gry #392 LT5 Reg# 868 RIP ZR1NET Founding Mem #155