Header Install

[LGAFF]

Can I use lock washers on these or will that pull the threads out?

[GOLDCYLON]

I used those anti vibration header bolts, Percy split locks

[Jagdpanzer]

Regular lock washers tend to loose their spring tension after being exposed to high temperatures for a while. Then they do you as much good as a regular flat washer.
I used the Stage 8 LT5 header bolt kit PN STG-8909 ordered from Summit.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8908/

These are good quality nickel plated steel bolts with 8 mm 12 point heads and are 30 mm long. The small head makes wrenching the ones with tight access a lot easier. However, I did not use the locking tabs that came with them, as they looked to be more trouble to install than I was prepared for. After two years all 28 bolts are still tight. Be sure to start all bolts a couple threads at first then continue making the rounds of drawing up each bolt a few turns at a time until all are tightened.

[LGAFF]

Looks like I will need:

-O2 extensions

-New bolts for Center Studs, the 2" doesn't want to let the the stud clear

-2 Reducers: 1 dome/1 3-2.5" reducer
**Anyone hace Corsa system with headers????? any suggestions

[Jagdpanzer]

Lee,
I posted this up a while back:
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showpost.ph...3&postcount=29

In my case I only needed O2 extension on the passenger side. I have an extra extension laying around somewhere which you are welcome to provided I can find it.

Phil

[LGAFF]

I only need 1 also, typo on post.

[WB9MCW]

LG were you aware about this problem?

I have to fix this on mine 92 some day.

PROBLEM - It has been well documented that the LT5 commonly leaks oil
out of the header studs side, and leaks down on the cat. If it sits
around a couple of weeks, it would smoke badly after about 5 minutes of
warm up. On each header side is a stud located in the middle of the
header, where it mates to the manifold. The stud is about a 1 1/4" long and
has a nut welded on. The stud screws into the block and into one of the
oil galleries. With all of the heat generated here, the stud will fail
to seal and an oil leak is the result.

CORRECTION - To fix the problem, use the following procedure.
1. Remove the front tire from the side to be fixed.
2. Remove the rear inner wheel well. It has an assortment of Torx and
hex head bolts.
3. You will now be able to look at the headers and see the stud,
situated between the first 2 and last 2 cylinders.
4. Use a 15mm socket to remove the stud. The nut is welded on to the
stud.
5. Clean up the stud, and apply a liberal amount of high temp Red RTV
to the threads.
6. Very carefully thread the stud back into the manifold. This is the
hardest part, as it is very close quarters. Don't drop the stud, or it
will fall into the deep crevices of the exhaust tubes.
7. Let the RTV set up overnight, and enjoy a leak free LT5.
8. As long as you have the wheel well out, you might as well clean the
air bag crash sensor, located on the frame rail. The right side one
gets a lot of AC runoff, which corrodes the grounding. Disconnect the
battery ground before removing the sensor. The sensor has 2 different bolts
securing it. (13mm and 10mm I think). Once removed, you can clean up
the surface and apply some dielectric grease to the surface to keep the
water out. The main grounding comes from the bolts, so make sure they're
clean.


Hi Bryan, the nut (at least from the factory) is not welded to the stud.Many times the stud will come out when loosening the nut, but if it doesn't you can get another M10 nut and lock against the 1st one then turning the lower nut back the stud and both nuts out.Reverse process is the best way I know of to re-install the stud, with out astud driver.Hope this helps...Greg Van Deventer

Bryan,
These instructions are correct except for one thing. The nut is not welded to the stud (at least it wasn't on mine). When you loosen the nut, the stud may stay in place. You need to put two nuts on the stud and lock them together to remove the stud. This is easier said than done, because there isn't a lot of room to work. I never did get my stud out. I ended up cleaning it while it was still installed with brake cleaner and coating both the stud and nut with high temp sealer. No leaks for the past two years.

Trevor
'91 White/Red

DEAR MR LOCO BOB, COULD YOU PLEASE INDICATE TO ME THE LOCATION OF THE LEAKY STUD IN YOUR NICE CHART. I HAVE COPIED THE POST OF MY LEAK PROBLEM AND WAS WONDERING WHICH POSITION IS THE FAMOUS STUD IS AT

Here you go Bryan, check the chart again. The stud is now indicated with a capital S.

Robert


Here's a diagram of what it should look like - at least every example
I've ever seen. The circles in the center are the exhaust ports, the x's are
bolts/studs and the o's are empty holes. All of the cars I've worked on
have had 6 of the long M8 bolts with spacers and one center stud/nut per
side.

o x x o o x x o
O O O O
x o o oSo o o x

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Did you use the existing hanger in middle of differential? If so...what kind of bracket did you make for the SW? Did you use any hanger by the transmission?

Thanks WB9MCW for that tip on the exhaust manifold bolt threaded into the oil galley

Mine have metal tabs welded onto the pipes for the hangers to attach to. I'll take a pic (later) and post it for ya! (As it happens, my hybrid system is Magnaflow back of the SW X pipe. That is how mine happens to have the tabs.)

P.

[scholtmj]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

**Anyone have Corsa system with headers????? any suggestions

3 inch extension, reducer cone, too much welding. This mess will be cleaned up with a new exhaust.

[Jagdpanzer]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Did you use the existing hanger in middle of differential? If so...what kind of bracket did you make for the SW? Did you use any hanger by the transmission?

Dyno,
I use the existing brackets and spring hangers from the stock exhaust at both the tranmission and differential loctations. As can be seen in the following photos the Corsa exhaust system has tabs to bolt to in the same locations as the factory exhaust.