Lot going on..questions about trans R/R, Motor Mounts, and full exhaust

[Corvette95]

My failure to check the motor mounts during my 90 restoration (that I basically finished this last Wednesday) , upon first 100 miles of the test drives, I feel excessive (could be in my mind) , driveline movement. So since this is a big job (please correct me if my procedures are wrong), I have to pull complete exhaust and headers for engine mounts, C beam for ZF-Docs plates, also pulling trans and leaving bellhousing in place to reuse complete DM flywheel and clutch (replacing clutch slave and master and hardline). Headers due to cost will be OBX, I have O2 extensions ordered from Marc H and waiting to here back from PW about DIP STICK RELOCATION BRACKET. I have rehearsed this but have never done a trans install that worked right on the first install. My other question is header bolts. I have seen numerous mentions with some that says don't fit whats my know best fitting header bolts?1 I HAVE manifold gaskets from Jerry. ANOTHER QUESTION I HESITATE TO ASK, IS THERE ANYONE AROUND NORTH ALABAMA THAT WOULD BE WILLING TO HELP?======================

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

My failure to check the motor mounts during my 90 restoration (that I basically finished this last Wednesday) , upon first 100 miles of the test drives, I feel excessive (could be in my mind) , driveline movement. So since this is a big job (please correct me if my procedures are wrong), I have to pull complete exhaust and headers for engine mounts, C beam for ZF-Docs plates, also pulling trans and leaving bellhousing in place to reuse complege DM flywheel and clutch (replacing clutch slave and master and hardline). Headers due to cost will be OBX, I have O2 extensions ordered from Marc H and waiting to here back from PW about DIP STICK RELOCATION BRACKET. I have rehearsed this but have never done a trans install that worked right on the first install. My other question is header bolts. I have seen numerous mentions with some that says don't fit whats my know best fitting header bolts?1 I HAVE manifold gaskets from Jerry. ANOTHER QUESTION I HESITATE TO ASK, IS THERE ANYONE AROUND NORTH ALABAMA THAT WOULD BE WILLING TO HELP?======================

It is pretty straight forward - nothing special to worry about, as it turns out.

I called Bill Boudreau (ZFdoc.com) before my first pull to get his advice, and he told me he pulls them lying on his back using an ordinary floor jack with the standard cup, i.e., NO special transmission cradle, etc. (He said, and I agree, having done is a few times now.) He said he puts the cup under the center of gravity and the cup allows him to better align and jostle the trans as needed to "stab" the clutch. He was right!

[Corvette95]

Hey Paul, thanks (sent you a PM BTW) . Anyone have info and part number for new header bolts?

[Corvette95]

Any tips on removing the heat shields? Can any of them be left on for the manifold pull?

[32valvZ]

I used a combination of the original manifold bolts with the spacers and then some short allen head bolts that I bought to fit in the tighter places. You will need to seal the center stud with something. I used red 700* RTV Permatex and its sealed up well and still is after a couple of years.

As far as heat shields, I used a combination of small open end wrenches and mostly my 1/4" drive socket set to get those out of the way. I remember having to take most of them completely off... Working through the wheel well helped also... used a universal joint and extensions. I bent one up a bit, but not terribly... Didnt care too much though as I knew they were never going back on anyway. Its a slow process on these, but youll get them.

All that said, I use a Kwiklift when doing anything really.... and it really made the job easier with exhaust work.

[A26B]

Chris,

Here is a link to a "Special Tool" that you will find useful when removing and installing the ZF6-40 transmission. It's a heavy sucker and alignment is critical for any manual transmission to avoid damage to the clutch disc.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/transm...howHidden=true

and a photo for the thread.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by A26B

Chris,

Here is a link to a "Special Tool" that you will find useful when removing and installing the ZF6-40 transmission. It's a heavy sucker and alignment is critical for any manual transmission to avoid damage to the clutch disc.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/transm...howHidden=true

and a photo for the thread.

I use these cut off bolts as alignment pins per Jerry, works great. The trans is heavy so be prepared. If memory serves it's about 145lbs. Like ZFDoc I found it's almost easier to do on Jack stands. More control of the heavy trans and not as far to fall. On a hoist it's tougher doing it overhead. Still with the right trans Jack you should be ok.

I can almost guarantee at least one of the engine mounts will be broken. Haven't seen a car yet without one, especially the higher mile ones.

I'm pulling my trans again this winter to do the shim kit (minimizes the trans gear rattle with my Fidanza, ZFDoc and Carolina clutch sell them) and swap out the clutch disk and Fidanza facing plate (I have chatter). Also getting the flywheel/clutch pack balanced.
Have fun..
H

[Corvette95]

Thanks Jerry and Hans!

[Corvette95]

to R/R the transmission (to replace) correct me if I am wrong, I want to leave the bellhousing /clutch etc in place. Do I need to pull the tail housing, if so , does the seal have to be replaced- it isn;t leaking. I also see on ZF Docs website there is a shim to watch out for and to make the drive shaft locations. Other than drive shaft, I hope to leave the tail housing on it if the NOS one come with it. Bill B is going to go through mine, do the full upgrade including shifting. I have only pulled two LT1 trans over ten years ago and can't remember much. I basically don't want to screw up the balance, the pull isn't bothering me so much. Thanks. BTW I bought the NOS unit from ZR1George in GA if any members are near that location.

[Ccmano]

If your just pulling the trans the bellhousing and clutch assembly can stay in place. Tailhousing stays in place too and goes with the trans. Just pull the exhaust system, C-beam, driveshaft and remove the shift knob (shift it into first gear when dropping the trans). Disconnect the electricals and your good to go. Still it begs the question if your going to all that trouble why wouldn't you inspect and refresh the clutch while your in there. At the very least I would replace the pilot bearing. TO bearings rarely fail. Put a new clutch disc in, they are cheap. Just remember to mark the pressure plate to the flywheel and flywheel to the crank for balancing.
Your call.
H