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#1 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
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I have just enough formal physics education to be real dangerous, or at least very skeptical at times. So, my "BS" antenna is up whenever I hear claims about additives like "Water Wetter" (WW) enhancing engine cooling.
I'm gonna go away now and do some research and maybe some experimenting, but this is what gets me to ![]() ![]() Fact: Water is a compound that has a very high "specific heat" factor. The higher the "specific heat" factor, the more heat (calories) it will absorb to raise its temperature by a given amount, and the more heat it will carry: like a sponge holds liquid, water holds heat. This is a good thing for a coolant to do. Fact: The bigger the heat differential between two materials (the radiator and air, in this case) the faster (and more) heat will transfer. Fact: Coolant temperature is an indirect method of determining engine heat: the temperature of the engine surfaces is the "real deal", but because we're so familiar with engine temp in terms of standard water coolant temp characterisitics, we take it for granted. The point is, if it ain't a well known comodity, i.e. "water" (50/50 antifreeze), then all bets are off as to actual engine metal temp/ effectiveness in the presence of an unknown coolant. My point is, colant temp changes claimed by the makers of the WW is not proof of better cooling, due to the fact measuring coolant temp is an indirect measurement of engine surfaces. If the WW does NOT combine with the water to form a new compound, and thereby altering it's specific heat (raising it), then the 6-12 oz of the WW stuff would have more of a placebo effect (on the purchaser) than actual heat transfer effectiveness. But, if the WW does in fact form a new compound with the water/glycol solution, one that is more efficient (read: higher specific heat factor), then perhaps it might well carry heat away more efficiently. A simple experiment could be conducted to prove or disprove WW's ability to transfer heat... Is it golden, or is it snake oil? I dunno, but "Ahl be back!" P. Last edited by Paul Workman; 02-06-2008 at 07:49 AM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 200
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Dang Paul...., this sure hurts my liberal arts degree brain.
![]() What I understand is - Green Stuff Good - Orange Stuff Bad.
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[IMG]http://i16.tinypic.com/4ig0b3a.jpg[/IMG] D. Mark Gentleman Farmer, U.S. Army-Retired LS3,LS6,LT1,LT5,L98,L82,L36,L79,L76 |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA.
Posts: 141
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I had a little different take on ww and cooling systems. First the best coolant is pure water. Antifreeze is added to reduce corrosion and to change freezing and boiling points. The addition of antifreeze actually reduces the specific heat capacity of water. WW reduces the surface tension of the water so that when localized boiling happens the size of the bubbles will be smaller, allowing more water to get to the hot surface.
I’m looking forward to the results of your research.
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#4 |
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Location: S. Florida
Posts: 2,667
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#5 | |
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Location: Texas
Posts: 2,431
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95 ZR-1 BLK/Gry #392 LT5 Reg# 868 *RIP* ZR1NET Founding Mem #155 Last edited by carter200; 02-06-2008 at 12:13 AM. |
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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![]() So, w/o casting dispursions on any particular wetting agent, so many times the product testing procedrues are so badly flawed (or manipulated) that the degree of ambiguity in the data collected would not support a valid conclusion. (Anybody wanna give me $200 for a Q-ray bracelet???) Maybe a topic for the program, "Myth Busters", huh? ![]() P. |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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I think if you read the WW bottle it performs best when mixed with just distilled water as a coolant. Any anti-freeze in the solution reduces the effects of the WW.
I was using it for a while and found to get noticable results, via the temp gauges, I had to lower the conc of 1825M down to where it would only protect to 5*C.....kind of useless in NYC if we get a real cold snap. My eventual solution was to make & install the intake screen. Flush & refill every two yrs with a new T-stat(OEM) & 1825-M. I cleaned the cooling stack, rad and condensor fins of sand and ofcourse the leafs & candy wrappers ![]() My side tank clamps were a bit loose so I cinched up the tank clamps, don't know if that did anything as there were no liquid leak trails. Last step will be to buy better fans and maybe one of those super radiators when my OE one pops. I hear the plastic tanks crack eventually? If you don't have to worry about freezing, I'd use the WW + distilled water + just enough 1825-M to protect the metal from corrosion...it would proly work well. JMHO ![]() Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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#8 | |
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
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There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y. |
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#9 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 231
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Man, I had a hard enough time finding a coolant I was sure wouldn't blow the head gasket. Now you guys throw all of this in the mix.
Just when I think I am catching on you guys throw me curve balls. ![]()
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Roger Miller 91 ZR-1 #391 |
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#10 |
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: lone pine and mammoth lakes ca.
Posts: 544
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wait untill you get a phil nekro knuckle ball
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