Slave Cylinder and Clutch Master Cylinder repair questions

[bb62]

Questions concerning the repair/replacement of my slave cylinder and master cylinder. Note pictures below..

1. How does the steel plunger attach to the new slave cylinder? There are no instructions as to how it is attached and this is how it was delivered to me. The old slave cylinder has the steel plunger attach from the inside of the rubber, but the new rubber does not come out of the main cylinder.
DSC_2358 b.jpg

2. The old slave cylinder just about came apart by itself when I took it off the car. There was a metal ring, like a washer, in the front of the rubber. It is visible in the following picture midway on the rubber. Do I need this metal "washer" when installing the new slave cylinder?
DSC_2359 b.jpg

3. Next picture shows old and new clutch master cylinders. The old master cylinder has a 1/2" thick silver metal plate where the master cylinder attaches to the firewall. Given the length of the two, I would need to reuse this plate, however, there is gasket material on both sides of the metal plate. Is this gasket material required in the installation? Where can I get these gaskets if required?
DSC_2360 b.jpg

4. Final question (no picture). The old braided steel line has a screw connection to the frame right under the steering shaft. Without taking the car half apart, it there anyway to get it out? Or can I get away with using the old line? It appears to be in good shape (car only has 7K miles).

[S.hafsmo]

1. Cannot really tell. Would assume it just presses in, and is later helt in pos. by the clutch fork. Mine came assembled if I remember correctly (also a cast iron one).

2. I believe that washer is to hold the rubber in place on the old slave, thus not needed on the new slave cylinder.

3. Spacer should be transferred to the new master, or the clutch might not engage properly. People have had issues before when leaving out the spacer.

4. The bolt holding the brake line can be removed from the engine compartment, it's just fiddly and incredibly annoying. I think I just lifted away the ECU and used some extensions on a 1/4" Ratchet.

5. You'd probably want to paint the new master and slave before assembly. I didn't, and just a year later mine has started to rust.. These cast iron unit's aren't great.
Anyone know if the old ones still can be refurbished?

[TX '90 ZR1]

In response to #4.
4. Final question (no picture). The old braided steel line has a screw connection to the frame right under the steering shaft. Without taking the car half apart, it there anyway to get it out? Or can I get away with using the old line? It appears to be in good shape (car only has 7K miles).

I believe you are referring to the screwed on clamp that is attached to the firewall. I got it out from underneath after removing the heat shield protecting the brake lines. This was very tedious and would not do it that way again. Don't think I could have re-installed from underneath anyway.
Since you are changing the master cylinder you obviously have the battery out. I discovered that if you remove the rear wheel well section you can actually see this clamp. Was not that big a deal to re-install since I could actually see what I was working on.
I would highly recommend changing the line if it is still the original one. 25 year old plus rubber is not really something you want to trust. Mileage really does not make any difference. The rubber still deteriates with age.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by S.hafsmo

Anyone know if the old ones still can be refurbished?

I believe Jim J might still be doing them.. he fixed my Slave last year and rebuilt an OEM Master for me.. both were built to sit until needed

[bb62]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

I believe Jim J might still be doing them.. he fixed my Slave last year and rebuilt an OEM Master for me.. both were built to sit until needed

Who is Jim J, because I would like to do the same thing - have the originals rebuilt for future usage?

[-=Jeff=-]

Jim Jandik.. I reached out to him to see if he still is doing them..

[bb62]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Jim Jandik.. I reached out to him to see if he still is doing them..

Jeff, Thanks.

[Neat]

#1 - The rod has a detent where the end of the rubber boot sits. There should be a small snap ring that holds that end of the boot to the rod.

#2 - Yes. The star washer goes at the bottom of the boot, and snaps into a groove in the slave. It keeps the boot installed. The OE slaves had two star washers and most replacement units only have one, put two on it if you have them. I use a piece of 1.5 inch PVC pipe slid over the boot to press the star washers into the groove.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by bb62

Jeff, Thanks.

I know he likes to fish, so it might be a few days before I get a reply. I seem to remember that comment from him last year

[-=Jeff=-]

He got back to me..

Yes, I still have parts available for rebuilding the cylinders. Have them ship them to me at:


Jim Jandik

24832 Hwy. 69

New Virginia, IA 50210


Tell them to always include a note that has their contact information.


For payment, I've been having people send me checks or do the PayPal thing.