Battery tender question - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

doctorjay61 · 07-13-2017

Newbie question here. I just got my 94 zr1 back in February. I just replaced the battery with an odyssey battery and bought and odyssey charger as well to maintain the battery. The directions for the charger say to ground the negative terminal cable. I wasn't sure where to place the terminal and I connected directly to the battery. Is that Ok? I just didn't want to cause any electrical issues.

Thanks for your responses. I look forward to meeting some of you guys at carlisle next month.

Dave

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GOLDCYLON · 07-13-2017

Yes that's OK. Just like the old school days black goes to negative and red goes to positive that's where I attach my Battery tender to as well when needed. GC

We Gone · 07-13-2017

That should work fine, or any frame bolt.

doctorjay61 · 07-13-2017

Thank you both for your quick responses. I never had an agm battery before and the odyssey charger is way more complex then the basic tender i use on my lawn mower so I just wanted to make sure I wasn't hurting anything. Looks like it already fully charged the battery and is now in maintain mode. Thanks again.

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George Maz · 07-13-2017

No, Odyssey & AGM mode chargers put out much higher charge cycles due to these batteries having low resistance. My Odyssey Optimizer (25amp) charging instructions state to disconnect battery from vehicle. The concern is that higher currents can backfeed into the car's older electronics.

Now, have I connected, charged, and gone for a drive without following those directions exactly...well yes, but I just want to point out recommendations that I've read.

Deltran Battery Tender is safer, less amperage, but doesn't have conditioning charge capabilities like the $180 Odyssey charger.

Best option is usage of Quick Disconnect ($5) that eliminates parasitic draw altogether.

I have Odyssey Batteries in everything I own, and the rebranded AGM Die-Hard that Sears disappointingly no longer sells. Worth the money.

doctorjay61 · 07-13-2017

Thanks for the info George. I have the 20 amp version. The directions didn't state to disconnect the battery but just not to hook up directly to the n battery terminal. I was unfamiliar with this requirement and so I was confused.

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ssrszz4 · 07-13-2017

Buy a cheap battery disconnect and use it when car will be sitting for any length of time. I actually disconnect mine even if it sits over nite.

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Dynomite · 07-13-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssrszz4

Buy a cheap battery disconnect and use it when car will be sitting for any length of time. I actually disconnect mine even if it sits over nite.

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The Battery Disconnect Switch TIPS

Paul Workman · 07-15-2017

After extensive dealings with lead-acid batteries as part of my profession (in a previous life) I feel some axioms are helpful:

Batteries (including AGMs like the Optima) intended as direct replacement for flooded lead-acid batteries, must operate in the existing (charging/discharging) environments.
Performance is optimum when battery condition is maintained at peak levels
Battery capacity is better preserved when not being charged if external drain is eliminated.
Temperature is inversely proportional to the rate of chemical reaction.
Steps taken to support these truths will serve to preserve battery life, barring other practical factors/limitation.

As these (above) apply in the automotive application, these are some other things i find to generally be true as well...

Special instructions/recommendations posted by specific battery (type) chargers are focused in order to optimize the performance of a particular charger/battery combination, without interference from external circuits: i.e., circuits which may alter sensor readings and thus interfere with optimum results.

The output (voltage and current) characteristics produced by various chargers are constantly varied via inherent design, selected delivery rate, and the state of the battery as it reaches full charge.

Hopefully, somewhere in all of this one can find some tools to assess the virtues of various chargers and their practical (charger vs. cut-off switch) decision.

Hog · 07-17-2017

You are powering down the ECM everytime you switch off the power. Fueling must be relearned everytime this occurs.

Even with a disconnect, an automotive battery will still discharge. Lead /acid batteries are designed for frequent shallow discharging/charging. Exactly what an often used daily driver will supply.

Sulphation occurs anytime a lead/acid isn't 100% charged.

A disconnect along with a low current tender is the best option for long term storage. This all gets worse for you guys in the warmer latitudes. What does help the warmer latitude guys is that there typical winter storage is shorter than us Northeners. 5 months is normal up here.
Keep em cold and keep em charged.

Its not an either or option, use a battery cut off AND use a trickle charger.

07-13-2017	#1
doctorjay61 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: NJ Posts: 71	Battery tender question Newbie question here. I just got my 94 zr1 back in February. I just replaced the battery with an odyssey battery and bought and odyssey charger as well to maintain the battery. The directions for the charger say to ground the negative terminal cable. I wasn't sure where to place the terminal and I connected directly to the battery. Is that Ok? I just didn't want to cause any electrical issues. Thanks for your responses. I look forward to meeting some of you guys at carlisle next month. Dave Sent from my SM-G950U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

07-13-2017	#2
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: Battery tender question Yes that's OK. Just like the old school days black goes to negative and red goes to positive that's where I attach my Battery tender to as well when needed. GC __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

07-13-2017	#3
We Gone Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: ATL. GA. Posts: 2,170	Re: Battery tender question That should work fine, or any frame bolt. __________________ Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold

07-13-2017	#4
doctorjay61 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: NJ Posts: 71	Re: Battery tender question Thank you both for your quick responses. I never had an agm battery before and the odyssey charger is way more complex then the basic tender i use on my lawn mower so I just wanted to make sure I wasn't hurting anything. Looks like it already fully charged the battery and is now in maintain mode. Thanks again. Sent from my SM-G950U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

07-13-2017	#5
George Maz Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 295	Re: Battery tender question No, Odyssey & AGM mode chargers put out much higher charge cycles due to these batteries having low resistance. My Odyssey Optimizer (25amp) charging instructions state to disconnect battery from vehicle. The concern is that higher currents can backfeed into the car's older electronics. Now, have I connected, charged, and gone for a drive without following those directions exactly...well yes, but I just want to point out recommendations that I've read. Deltran Battery Tender is safer, less amperage, but doesn't have conditioning charge capabilities like the $180 Odyssey charger. Best option is usage of Quick Disconnect ($5) that eliminates parasitic draw altogether. I have Odyssey Batteries in everything I own, and the rebranded AGM Die-Hard that Sears disappointingly no longer sells. Worth the money. __________________ 1990 ZR-1 #1587 1990 ZR-1 #1727

07-13-2017	#6
doctorjay61 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: NJ Posts: 71	Re: Battery tender question Thanks for the info George. I have the 20 amp version. The directions didn't state to disconnect the battery but just not to hook up directly to the n battery terminal. I was unfamiliar with this requirement and so I was confused. Sent from my SM-G950U using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

07-13-2017	#7
ssrszz4 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: US Posts: 233	Re: Battery tender question Buy a cheap battery disconnect and use it when car will be sitting for any length of time. I actually disconnect mine even if it sits over nite. Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

07-15-2017	#9
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: Battery tender question After extensive dealings with lead-acid batteries as part of my profession (in a previous life) I feel some axioms are helpful: Batteries (including AGMs like the Optima) intended as direct replacement for flooded lead-acid batteries, must operate in the existing (charging/discharging) environments. Performance is optimum when battery condition is maintained at peak levels Battery capacity is better preserved when not being charged if external drain is eliminated. Temperature is inversely proportional to the rate of chemical reaction. Steps taken to support these truths will serve to preserve battery life, barring other practical factors/limitation. As these (above) apply in the automotive application, these are some other things i find to generally be true as well... Special instructions/recommendations posted by specific battery (type) chargers are focused in order to optimize the performance of a particular charger/battery combination, without interference from external circuits: i.e., circuits which may alter sensor readings and thus interfere with optimum results. The output (voltage and current) characteristics produced by various chargers are constantly varied via inherent design, selected delivery rate, and the state of the battery as it reaches full charge. Hopefully, somewhere in all of this one can find some tools to assess the virtues of various chargers and their practical (charger vs. cut-off switch) decision. __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 07-15-2017 at 02:34 PM.

07-17-2017	#10
Hog Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,275	Re: Battery tender question You are powering down the ECM everytime you switch off the power. Fueling must be relearned everytime this occurs. Even with a disconnect, an automotive battery will still discharge. Lead /acid batteries are designed for frequent shallow discharging/charging. Exactly what an often used daily driver will supply. Sulphation occurs anytime a lead/acid isn't 100% charged. A disconnect along with a low current tender is the best option for long term storage. This all gets worse for you guys in the warmer latitudes. What does help the warmer latitude guys is that there typical winter storage is shorter than us Northeners. 5 months is normal up here. Keep em cold and keep em charged. Its not an either or option, use a battery cut off AND use a trickle charger. __________________ peace Paul ZR-1 Net Registry Member #1494