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Old 03-18-2017   #1
Tripler
 
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Smile Hawk Brake Pads

Hey guys and gals . I am hoping to change out all 4 sets of pads on our 1995 ZR-1 once the weather gets better . I would like a little bit of tutoring if possible as I have only changed pads on Motorbikes and Japanese cars.

Thanks
Mike ...
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Old 03-18-2017   #2
secondchance
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

Nothing unusual.

Remove caliper - 2 bolts fastened to the knuckle.
Remove brake reservoir cap.
Push caliper pistons back by spreading the pads.
Remove old pads.
Install new pads. Might want to coat the backing with copper grease.
Reinstall caliper.

Clean knuckle, caliper, and surrounding parts as needed with brake clean.

I normally don't turn rotors. Typically drive around braking gently for awhile to seat new pads to the rotor. However, if you prefer, take the rotors off and take them to a service station and have them turned.
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Old 03-18-2017   #3
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

While at it, it may not be a bad idea to install Russell caliper bleed valve.
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...domestic.shtml

Easy to install, and once installed, you can flush the whole system super easy. These are one way bleed valve. Just open the valve after install, connect 1/8" silicone hose into a jar. Keep pumping, starting with furthest from the brake master (right rear), until you see clear brake fluid coming out.
I used Wilwood EXP 600 which is DOT 3 based fluid with higher boiling temp. 2quarts is enough the flush the whole system.
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Old 03-18-2017   #4
Demps
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

Fronts can be changed by removing c-clip, washer & pin then tilt caliper out of bracket.

Ted
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Old 03-18-2017   #5
Tripler
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

Awesome guys . Thanks . I thought I read somewhere that you have to have the bleed open whilst compressing caliper or the reservoir or brake sensors can become polluted with either moister or debris when the brake fluid is pushed backwards threw system .
I read it In the newsletter from 2008 from a article Hib did ...
Thanks

Mike

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Old 03-18-2017   #6
Tripler
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

From my racing days we also never machined rotors as you will have more area and more bite with un machined rotors . You just have to brake them in correctly which I know how to do ...


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Old 03-18-2017   #7
PhillipsLT5
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

I went with Hawk HPS pads, much better feel than stock, no more dust than stock, did not resurface rotors, all good, follow Hawk instructions, Hawk Performance burnishes its High Performance Street brake pads as a final step in the factory, but all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance
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Old 03-18-2017   #8
secondchance
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripler View Post
Awesome guys . Thanks . I thought I read somewhere that you have to have the bleed open whilst compressing caliper or the reservoir or brake sensors can become polluted with either moister or debris when the brake fluid is pushed backwards threw system .
I read it In the newsletter from 2008 from a article Hib did ...
Thanks

Mike

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I could see how avoiding brake fluid going backwards would be a good idea. However, if I had the bleeder valve open while pushing the piston back, I would bleed the system to make sure that I don't have any trapped air bubble.
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Old 03-18-2017   #9
Tripler
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

Yes . A complete flush would have to be done if I open the bleeds to expand the pads to remove and replace with new ones . I will definitely be getting the one way bleeds also ...
Thanks for the responses ...



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Old 03-19-2017   #10
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: Hawk Brake Pads

A Summary most of which others have described

I would Remove the Wheel.
Remove the two bolts holding the Caliper to the Caliper Frame. Or do as Ted describes which is easier.
Remove the Caliper (maybe use a flat screw driver to pry calipers open/loose).
Remove Old brake pads.
Use C-Clamp to compress each brake cylinder back to original position.
Use a Turkey Baster to remove some brake fluid from Master Cylinder as it may overflow.
Install New Brake Pads (Maybe lubricate back side of brake pad shield).
Install Calipers and re-install the two bolts holding the Calipers to the Caliper Frame.

Now if you want......use the Turkey Baster (after you have installed New Brake Pads both front wheels) and remove ALL old brake fluid from Master Cylinder Reservoir (Front).
Install New Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake Fluid in Master Cylinder.
Bleed the Front Brakes until the fluid runs clear (Open Bleeder, Pump Brake, Close Bleeder, Release Brake) several times.

Or Installation of Wilwood Rotors and C4 to C5-Z06 Conversion

Last edited by Dynomite; 03-19-2017 at 01:20 AM.
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