Is there any interest in a group buy for Machined Billet Aluminum alternator?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

I inquired about a billet alternator after seeing a few on Ebay from this seller. They have good feedback and seem to be reputable enough to trust:

http://stores.ebay.com/Quality-Power "The photos shown are not our alternator, just one like it as an example"

He said: "The lowest amperage we provide in our billet series is 150 amp max and 120 amp at idle. The cost for that billet alternator with the mounting that matches your CS144 would be $450.00. It would then be a direct bolt-in and plug-in installation. The case would be natural machined billet aluminum. If you are interested in a polished or chrome finish you would add $60.00. We have our CNC vendor working to produce the correct front housing already. We are having a run of 5 front housings cut. If you think that you can get more people, we could probably get the price cut by about $50.00 each. Our CNC guy is current going to write the program for cutting the plates. He will most likely be running them at the end of next week. Let us know if you want to get together a larger order and we can inform him. The more units he can cut from the same stock, the less expensive each one is. We do know exactly what you need for the CS-144 and our information confirms that is the right alternator for your application. We have already done the same for the Delco 10SI, CS-130, AD-244 and the Ford 1G and 3G. The ones we will produce for your application will match the factory mount exactly."

This is a Custom Billet Aluminum Case GM 150 Amp 1-wire alternator.

The newest technology is now available to retrofit your older GM vehicle. This custom case houses a late model Nippondenso alternator that puts out 150 amp max and an amazing 120 amp at idle. It uses a 6 phase stator (as opposed to the 3 phase found on earlier models) to induce more energy.

The only wiring required is to hookup the battery charge cable (1-wire) to the side output post on the alternator. This is the easiest installation possible!

Is anyone interested in this? It is a bit pricey, but I'm not sure what is involved in building an alternator like this. So it seems it would be about $400 depending on how many and free shipping to those of you in the US with UPS service. Please share your thoughts.

Warranties

Alternators and starters are covered by a 1 year warranty. Odyssey batteries are warranted for 2 year, 3 year, or 4 years depending on the part number. See individual battery listing for actual warranty length. All other merchandise carries a 90-day warranty. The warranty starts from the date of purchase. Paint and chrome of any manufacture is subject to chips or discoloration when exposed to heat. For this reason, defects in the finish are limited to the time of installation. Any claim must be made prior to installation. Please note that products to be used on vehicles that will run at high RPM (above 6,000 RPM) will not be warranted and may require special components to make them suitable. Please let us know in advance of these conditions so that we can help provide the proper product. Warranties must be returned to Quality Power for repair/replacement of the merchandise at our option. Contact Quality Power to request a Return Merchandise Authorization number (RMA) prior to returning a product. Quality Power does not assume responsibility for loss of use of the vehicle, loss of items, towing, lodging, rental vehicle, or other inconvenience or incidental or consequential damages. This warranty does not apply, if in the sole judgment of Quality Power Auto Inc., the product has been damaged due to accident, improper installation, adjustment, wiring neglect, misuse or application for which it is not designed or altered in any way so as to affect adversely its reliability and performance.
Claims for warranty must be made through Quality Power by contacting us through the following channels:

Quality Power
31510 Yucaipa Blvd.
Yucaipa, CA 92399
(909) 794-1600
Qualitypower@aol.com

The following identify some of the conditions that are not covered by this specific warranty:

Alternator conditions:

· Bearing failure caused by loose or over tightened belts. Alternators returned for warranty must include pulley. If pulley is shiny, shaft is blue, or pulley is blue form heat, no warranty is allowed.
· Threads stripped on the output (B+) or ground terminals (B-)
· Output (B+) (B-) terminals burnt off or discolored from loose connections.
· Rotor shaft threads damaged.
· Broken brushes and/or brush holder due to attempts to re-clock alternator.
· Alternator housing damaged due to poor or loose mounting.
· Alternator hooked up or batteries installed with wrong polarity.
· Failure as a result of improper wiring (size and hook up.)
· Alternator installed in non-recommended applications such as racing applications.
· Installation of an alternator that is not hot rated at a minimum of 30 amps above full vehicle load.
· ANY ONE, OR ALL OF THE PHASES BURNT OUT OF STATOR
· ANY ONE, OR ALL THE DIODES BLOWN OR DAMAGED.
· Damage to the alternator due to the battery not being in the system with the engine running, or the battery cable being removed from the battery with the engine running.


Craig

[Corbusa]

It looks sweet. I'm not sure I could swing it right now. But migt be something in the near future. $2500.00 in my truck this week hurt me.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Corbusa

It looks sweet. I'm not sure I could swing it right now. But migt be something in the near future. $2500.00 in my truck this week hurt me.

I understand what you mean. It is double the price of a stock alternator for the looks, so not too many will want to upgrade for the looks and higher output.

[ZZZZZR1]

Hmmmmmmmmmm

Damn that looks sweet!!!! When are you interested in doing is Craig
I might be interested too!



David

[Fully Vetted]

Any chance we could do a group buy and save some dough?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

To both Davids,

My purpose was to see how much interest there is and he is doing his initial run of 5 of these, but of course there is a bigger discount for more. I guess I should put this on the CF too since there is a different group there. I just replaced my alternator, but would love to have this for some bling and more output. They make it in much higher output, but I did not feel I needed more than 150 AMPS. I would like to see this under $400 as that is a lot of coin.

Craig

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

I guess I should put this on the CF too since there is a different group there.

Same group on CF with some changes in IDs .....................they just act different on CF (sometimes they have no choice)

Calculating Alternator Pulley Diameter.

Starting with diameter of belt surface on Harmonic Balancer to convert rpm to surpentine belt speed we can calculate Alternator rpm depending on Alternator Pulley diameter.

The Harmonic Balancer diameter is 7-1/8 inch to outer lip (90' ZR1). The surpentine belt riding surface is about 1/8 in less radius so surpentine belt riding surface diameter would be 6-7/8 inches (6.875 inches).

If the alternator puts out 150 amp max and 120 amp at idle....the question is at what rpms is alternator spinning when the engine is idling at 850 rpm with a surpentine belt speed of 18,349 inches per minute. (6.875 inches x 3.14) in per rev x 850 rpm = 18,349 inches per minute.

My alternator pully is about 68mm (2.7 inches) diameter (I just bought two new alternator pulleys yesturday).



At a Surpentine Belt speed (idle) of 18,349 inches per minute, that alternator would be spinning at (18,349 inches per minute)/(2.7 inches x3.14) = 2,164 rpm (alternator spin rate) at idle (engine idle speed 850 rpm).

Or...just divide the Harmonic Balancer Diameter by the Alternator Pulley Diameter and multiply by engine idle speed to get Alternator Idle speed.

So the question might be at what Alternator idle speed the alternator still puts out the current needed to keep up with ZR1 current usage at idle (assuming you are not sitting there with head lights on at idle). Size that alternator pulley accoringly and then see what the maximum alternator rpm might be at 7,000 rpm engine speed (making sure you are not overspinning the alternator).

If you are overspinning the alternator and do that often, get a larger alternator pulley and suffer the consequences when sitting at a stop light with lights on loosing battery charge as your alternator cannot keep up with current load.

After figuring out the alternator pulley size required, get a surpentine belt length accordingly.

LED reduces battery current load related to Alternator Pulley Diameter

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Same group on CF with some changes in IDs .....................they just act different on CF (sometimes they have no choice)

Calculating Alternator Pulley Diameter.

Starting with diameter of belt surface on Harmonic Balancer to convert rpm to surpentine belt speed we can calculate Alternator rpm depending on Alternator Pulley diameter.

The Harmonic Balancer diameter is 7-1/8 inch to outer lip (90' ZR1). The surpentine belt riding surface is about 1/8 in less radius so surpentine belt riding surface diameter would be 6-7/8 inches (6.875 inches).

If the alternator puts out 150 amp max and 120 amp at idle....the question is at what rpms is alternator spinning when the engine is idling at 850 rpm with a surpentine belt speed of 18,349 inches per minute. (6.875 inches x 3.14) in per rev x 850 rpm = 18,349 inches per minute.

My alternator pully is about 68mm (2.7 inches) diameter (I just bought two new alternator pulleys yesturday).



At a Surpentine Belt speed (idle) of 18,349 inches per minute, that alternator would be spinning at (18,349 inches per minute)/(2.7 inches x3.14) = 2,164 rpm (alternator spin rate) at idle (engine idle speed 850 rpm).

Or...just divide the Harmonic Balancer Diameter by the Alternator Pulley Diameter and multiply by engine idle speed to get Alternator Idle speed.

So the question might be at what Alternator idle speed the alternator still puts out the current needed to keep up with ZR1 current usage at idle (assuming you are not sitting there with head lights on at idle). Size that alternator pulley accoringly and then see what the maximum alternator rpm might be at 7,000 rpm engine speed (making sure you are not overspinning the alternator).

If you are overspinning the alternator and do that often, get a larger alternator pulley and suffer the consequences when sitting at a stop light with lights on loosing battery charge as your alternator cannot keep up with current load.

After figuring out the alternator pulley size required, get a surpentine belt length accordingly.

LED reduces battery current load related to Alternator Pulley Diameter

Cliff,

Thanks for the pulley diameter so I don't have to go to the garage and do measurements. I'll ask your questions to the manufacturer, because like Sweet Brown says, "I ain't got time for that": http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFEoMO0pc7k

I will provide them the stock specs with max rpm of our motor (that most would take it to) and also let them know about the difference for the folks with underdrive pulleys like you and I have. I don't have no issues with a stock alternator, but I do have a battery relocation with Odessey PC925MJT (26 lb) that has been trouble free for the past year and a half (did not have the same luck with the Braille B3121 (21 lb).