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#1 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Prior lake
Posts: 65
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So I recently put in a new fuel pump in. Seemed pretty straight forward. Now it turns over for quite a bit longer before it starts.
Thoughts? |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
Posts: 8,144
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Some of the new fuel pumps are coming out with defective hoses; from small leaks to in time splitting the full length of the hose.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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One thing at a time: I'd suggest you'd first want to know the fuel pressure readings at the rail with the key ON, before turning the starter (to see if adequate fuel pressure is present), before hypothesizing further or raining parts on it.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#4 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Prior lake
Posts: 65
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Never done that before. I assume there's a video somewhere on how to do it? |
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#5 |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,450
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When I start my car I turn key to on position, let pumps pressurize system then turn to start, hold key longer than a regular car to avoid backfire, after replacing both my pumps my car starts faster now than it did with old pumps
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Turning the ignition switch to ON and pausing (as PhillipsLT5 described), you should see the pressure in the mid 40s (e.g., ~45± 2#). (And, BTW, after turning the switch OFF, the pressure should hold to a pound or two for 10-15 minutes or so. If if falls off faster, either a check-valve in one of the fuel pumps is bad, or there is one or more leaking injectors; neither is a good thing - especially if it is leaking injectors. But, that is getting further off topic! ![]()
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,154
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How much longer ?
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,194
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Longer crank can sometimes mean the check valve is not working on a pump
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,275
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Cycle the key once to cycle the pump. That will pre pressurize the system before you engage the starter to crank the engine.
Since the new symptom occurred concurrently with a pump change, something in the pump or near the pump is letting pressure back into the tank. I agree with Lee on this one. The start of this video explains the potential issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YLRtA_QHa8
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peace Paul ZR-1 Net Registry Member #1494 |
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